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which ups should i buy? hyper k 600w \ Gigabyte RTX2070 8G 1620Mhz WINDFORCE 2 \ ACER PREDATOR 25" 240hz XB253q

racepak

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hello everyone , new here, i got a pre built system.
and i am looking to buy a ups for my system:
will the Eaton 5E 1500VA USB 230V 5E1500IUSB be sufficient ?

ACER PREDATOR 25" 240hz XB253q

FSP hyper k 600w power supply

Gigabyte RTX2070 8G 1620Mhz WINDFORCE 2
AMD Six Core Ryzen 5 3600 Up to 4.2Ghz BOX
Gigabyte B450M DS3H
XPG 16G (2X8G) DDR4 3000Mhz CL16 GAMMIX D10 SSD WD Green 240G
WD 1T 3.5' Sata3 BLUE 7200RPM 64MB

thanks alot!!!
 
If you are within EU, there is a better one SMC1500I
 

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will the Eaton 5E 1500VA USB 230V 5E1500IUSB be sufficient ?
Yes, and that's a nice one too.

However, having an UPS with an LCD status display panel is nice because you can see what is happening to your power and power consumption without having to boot or wake your computer, or run the UPS status program.
 
Eaton/APC are generally the most experienced UPS manufactuerers by sheer volume, though Eaton has more industrial experience while APC is more SOHO most of the time.

I also enjoy Tripp Lite products. They are a bit less known but I have had good experiences with their products and they are hardly inexperienced in their own respect. I don't know if you'll find them commonly in europe though.

Either will do fine I am sure. For a decent runtime on a system like that (enough to finish work and save on a fairly complex project), I would say 1500VA is probably more than enough. Don't go below 1000VA though, IMO.
 
Any UPS units that natively use lithium batteries?
 
Any UPS units that natively use lithium batteries?
Nah! Those are few and far between and therefore expensive.
They are a bit less known but I have had good experiences with their products and they are hardly inexperienced in their own respect.
I agree they are less known when it comes to UPS, but the company has been making quality power related products for decades. And while APC is better known for their SOHO applications, they are heavy into industrial/commercial products too.
 
I agree they are less known when it comes to UPS, but the company has been making quality power related products for decades. And while APC is better known for their SOHO applications, they are heavy into industrial/commercial products too.

They indeed are. They just aren't the first "leading" name I see come up in those fields, but that's almost irrelevant to this use case anyways (and probably to that one too, because their products are good regardless of what's on the industrial/commercial "best seller" list).
 
thanks for the replys, iv been told that my power supply is a PFC (Power factor correction) and i need a pure sine wave and not a Stepped, modified or simulated sine wave. or i might have issues combining the two.

it turns out that apc is made in my country lol.
 
thanks for the replys, iv been told that my power supply is a PFC (Power factor correction) and i need a pure sine wave and not a Stepped, modified or simulated sine wave. or i might have issues combining the two.

it turns out that apc is made in my country lol.

Highly unlikely. A lot of people get advised that, but I've been using stepped/modified sine wave with PFC power supplies a lot over the years and nothing bad has happened. They work fine. It seems to be a big myth that refuses to die.

If anything, it might be slightly harsher on the PSU, but a.) Not by much at all and b.)it's not going to be running on it long enough to matter. When I say harsher, I mean in a metric of 24/7 operation, something you just don't do with a UPS. And even that being harsher is debatable.
 
iv been told that my power supply is a PFC (Power factor correction) and i need a pure sine wave and not a Stepped, modified or simulated sine wave. or i might have issues combining the two.
This is total malarkey. Don't believe it. It is a hoax perpetrated by the marketing weenies of those pure sinewave makers in a disgraceful attempt to take sales away from APC and other makers of stepped approximation (simulated) sinewave UPS makers. And sadly, this hoax has been repeated over and over again but naĂŻve people who fail to do their homework and research the truth.

Any 1/2 way decent AC/DC power supply can handle the "stepped sine wave" or "stepped approximation" waveform just fine. They have for the last 30+ years with no problems so there is no reason to believe the much more reliable and robust power supplies of today can't either. They are much more capable at handling power line anomalies than PSUs of yesteryear.

And that's not just computer PSUs, but the power supplies for our modems, routers, switches, monitors and more. The only time there really is a need for a "pure" sine wave output UPS is when used to support highly "sensitive" health monitoring and life support equipment as found in hospital intensive care units.

And for those claiming the problem is with active PFC and the power grids used in the EU, hogwash! If the devices caused problems in that way, they could not be sold in the EU!

All computer and networking devices use DC voltages. It is actually easier to make a clean DC voltage converted from a stepped approximation sine wave than it is from a pure (round tops) sine wave because less filtering is required.

Do not forget that 99% of the time, our UPS is not "on-line". That is, it is not acting as a battery backup, except during a total power outage. It is just "in-line" acting as a sophisticated "automatic voltage regulator" (AVR). It is really for the AVR that we need a "good" UPS. Backup power during a full power outage is just the icing on the cake. But even then, power supplies do just fine with stepped approximation outputs.

Note what EVGA, one the premier makers of power supplies says,

EVGA Knowledgebase
Q: Do EVGA Power Supplies support UPS backup devices that support Line-Interactive AVR UPS which uses a simulated/artificial sine wave?

Yes, all EVGA power supplies support UPS backup devices.

Seasonic has similar verbiage on their website.

The only reason pure sine wave UPSs have gotten a lot of attention lately is because the prices have FINALLY come down so they are within reach. That and aggressive marketing from makers of such UPS. So if you find a pure sine wave UPS with a competitive prices, comparable power and features, there's no harm in getting one. Just don't think you need it. You don't.

If you want to learn more on this, see this article. While a bit dated it still applies - which to me just shows how the nonsense about needing pure sine wave UPS is just that, nonsense, feculent blather, marketing hype.
 
@racepak
Why do you want a UPS? Which problems you currently have with your mains? Because there are different UPS types, with different functions.

I would start with a good power supply, to replace your current one by the way.
 
Why do you want a UPS?
I see this as an irrelevant question - like, "Why do you need insurance?" or "Why do you need a spare tire in your car?" Or even taking it further and to a more applicable "full time" analogy, "Why do you need good tires are on your car?"

Sadly, some people are under the false impression that if their region has a good, stable, power grid, or if their region does not suffer from severe weather then you don't need a "good" UPS with AVR for your computer and network gear. And worse, those same people then advise others they don't need a UPS. :(

Or they go anecdotal and claim because they have gone years without a UPS and never had a problem, then that proves they are not needed. :kookoo:

Wrong, wrong, wrong and wrong.

Every computer should be on a good UPS with AVR. Why? As I said above, power during a total power outage is just the icing on the cake. A minor bonus feature! The "full time" automatic voltage regulation (AVR) for both high and low voltage anomalies is why a "good" UPS with AVR is so essential.

First, even in regions with the calmest weather and most stable power grid, damaging surges and spikes can come off the grid due to equipment failure or lightning strikes. No place on Earth is immune from lightning. It may be rare in some regions, but it still happens.

Second, it is wrong to assume disruptive or worse, destructive power anomalies only originate from the power grid. Any major appliance in your home can produce destructive anomalies. Refrigerators, water coolers, microwave ovens, toasters all send surges, spikes, dips and sags EVERY TIME they cycle on and off. And that's when they are working properly! Should they fail, and all electronics will - eventually, they could dump very destructive anomalies on to the circuit.

While advanced, more expensive high-wattage appliances may attempt to suppress dumping such anomalies on the circuit – "IF" they are not damaged and are working properly, low-tech cheap appliances will not. A cheap, $15, 1500W hair dryer made in some obscure factory in the backwoods of China, using parts from a similar factory upriver, comes to mind.

So one might say, "get a good surge and spike protector." Not good enough!

A surge and spike protector is little more than a fancy and expensive extension cord. It is a "passive" device that does absolutely nothing and is totally useless for abnormal low voltage events like dips (opposite of spikes), sags (opposite of surges), or long duration sags (brownouts) - any of which can cause your electronics to suddenly stop, resulting in possible data corruption.

For abnormal high voltage events, a surge and spike protector merely chops off ("clamps") the "transient" peaks of the sine waves, leaving a not-so pretty or clean voltage waveform for your power supplies to compensate for. For excessively high surges and spikes, "IF" lucky :rolleyes: , it will trip an internal breaker and kill power - but that, of course, does nothing to protect your data from corruption.

And because destructive surges and spikes can originate from inside your home, and because surge and spike protectors do nothing for dips, sags, and brown outs, "whole-house" surge protection is not good enough either!

A "good" UPS with AVR in an "active" "intelligent" device that shapes (regulates) the sine wave into something more easily used by the devices plugged into it. In low voltage events, it will boost the voltage to normal output, employing the batteries if necessary. In extreme high voltage events, it will use the batteries to absorb the excess voltage (which batteries can do with ease), and/or dump the excess voltage to ground (Earth).
 
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Your posts are quite funny, especially with your signature in mind.

But sadly aren't helping anyone.
 
Like that helped?

You suggested replacing the PSU. How does that help anyone, let alone the OP who is NOT asking for PSU help? A new PSU does absolutely nothing to regulate incoming power. A new PSU does absolutely nothing to protect connected peripherals like the monitor or connected storage devices. A new PSU does absolutely nothing to protect connected network gear. And of course, a new PSU does absolutely nothing in the event of a power outage.

And others here already mentioned different UPS types. As for functions, backup power, monitoring and voltage regulation were all discussed too.

So yeah, your first post was not helpful to anyone and this second post you made for the sole purpose of criticizing another was even less helpful. :(
 
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Which brings up an interesting question; will a surge protector on the same circuit help? i.e. one is not directly plugged into the surge protector.

Concerning constructive criticism, I see it as a gift and such people can really help.
 
Which brings up an interesting question; will a surge protector on the same circuit help? i.e. one is not directly plugged into the surge protector.
I don't understand the question.

If you mean plugging a surge and spike protector into a UPS, or a UPS into a surge and spike protector, neither should be done. Surge and spike protectors can actually make the waveform "dirty" by clamping off the peaks of the sine wave. In some cases, the UPS may see that dirty waveform as dirty power and flip over to battery backup unnecessarily. If nothing else, that may shorted the life span of the batteries. Or it may put unnecessary or excessive workload on the UPS regulation circuits.

If you plug a surge and spike protector into the UPS, the UPS may see the load as unstable and shut down. FTR, every UPS manual I have seen says don't use a surge and spike protector with the UPS.

Because the space on the back of most UPS is limited, and because AC/DC power blocks often take up too much room, if you need more UPS protected outlets, I recommend using 18 inch spider extension cords to add more protected outlets to the UPS. If you need an extension cord between the wall outlet and the UPS, then use a plain, heavy duty extension cord - one that does not have built in surge and spike protection.
 
I have say 3 plugs on the same circuit in my house, and I plug a surge protector into one of those plugs, but nothing directly into that surge protector; I now use one of the other plugs.

Will the surge protector suppress spikes on the circuit?
 
Oh, I see what you mean. No. It will not work. That would be nice but a surge and spike protector only helps protect the devices plugged into that protector.
 
How about this: the MOVs in a surge protector are connected across wires so a surge protector in a close socket is also connected across wires and so may still be of some benefit.

In my house I have over 20 TrippLite isobar units plugged in and would suppose they might be of some benefit to the sockets where there are none.
 
How about this: the MOVs in a surge protector are connected across wires so a surge protector in a close socket is also connected across wires and so may still be of some benefit.
Huh? I'll say it again. A surge and spike protector protects the devices plugged into the protector. If you want to protect your whole house, look into a whole house protector which is connected across the main lines coming into your service panel from the grid.

And again, surge and spike protectors do nothing for excessive surges and spikes, and they do nothing for dips, sags and brown-outs.

Now this is racepak's thread and is about UPS - not surge and spike protectors. Time to get back on topic.
 
Can you guys recommend me something from this website https://www.emag.ro/ups-cu-management/c?ref=bc
This is the place where I buy stuff.

I need it for my PC ONLY. So nothing else but my PC. I have a power supply of 650W. I need it to hold my computer a few minutes alive if there are power spikes or complete power off in my building. Just so I can safely shut down my PC.
So don't look at the price, just take in consideration that I don't need an overkill just for a single PC unit.

Your help is much appreciated.
 
I need it for my PC ONLY. So nothing else but my PC.
Unless you have an UPS on everything else, I would say this is a mistake. If you lose power during the middle of something important - editing a Word document or Excel spreadsheet, for example, how are you going to see what you are doing in order to save your open file and properly shutdown Windows and your computer if your monitor is not protected by the UPS too? What about keeping your network alive so you can connect wirelessly with a portable device like a laptop of cell phone?

While it is extremely rare for the CPU, graphics, RAM, motherboard, fans and all drives to be demanding maximum power at the exact same point in time, you have to assume it could happen and plan accordingly. Assuming we are talking about the computer in your System Specs, as seen here, you could get by with a 500W power supply and a 900VA UPS.

APC and CyberPower are the only brands on that site I am familiar with. I prefer APC but have had good luck with CyberPower too. I cannot speak for the others. If me, I would go for at least 900VA. Bigger gives you more battery run time and often the bigger UPS have better specs on the AVR (automatic voltage regulation) side of the UPS too. Note it is the AVR that is really the most important aspect of having our systems on a good UPS. Surges and spikes happen dozens, often 100s of time every day. A good UPS with AVR will protect your protected devices from those anomalies. Providing battery backup power during a full outage is typically just a nice bonus feature.

I also recommend a UPS with a LCD status display panel. Those are great for monitoring your UPS status but all the power coming out of your wall - without having to power up your computer.

Despite what some marketing departments want us to believe, we do NOT need pure sinewave UPS on our computers. Don't let anyone try to convince you otherwise. They are wrong. Stepped or approximated sinewave output is just fine. Remember, that output is only a facture when running off the battery. Those should be very rare events that last only a few minutes. 99.9% of the time, you should be running off grid power.

If you can find a pure sinewave UPS at a very good, competitive price, then fine. Go for it. Just don't avoid a good UPS because it is not pure sinewave.
 
@Bill_Bright you opened my eyes.

Yeah, your right i do need to keep the monitor alive as well so I can use the display.

I couldn't care less about a Word document. Lately, and this has happened in the past. If there is a drop of electricity...the lights will flicker for a split second, but the computer will restart immediately. Even the TV stays on, but the only thing affected is the PC.
A strange thing has happened, and I am blaming it on the GPU, when there is a power spike, and because I have sht power from the wall, the computer restarted turned off cuz for a second the consumption from the GPU was too high. I figured this is where a Titanium PSU comes into play,thus why I spend so much money on it...

My goal is to have very clean constant power provided to the PC, so I can eliminate the sht electricity coming from the wall.

------
So at this point, if I would like to consider the monitor as well, I guess I need more than 500W power supply and a 900VA UPS.


EDIT: the more I think about it - if there was power drop from the wall the computer would be turned off. Instead, it restarted as if I instructed the PC to do so
This is what I got from the Windows log:
"The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly."

I am confused, but I feel like a decent UPS will eliminate the probability of constant power from the wall.

EDIT2: I like this one and it is in my budget:

What do you guys think, will it hold the PC and the monitor?
 
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A strange thing has happened, and I am blaming it on the GPU, when there is a power spike, and because I have sht power from the wall, the computer restarted turned off cuz for a second the consumption from the GPU was too high. I figured this is where a Titanium PSU comes into play,thus why I spend so much money on it...
My goal is to have very clean constant power provided to the PC, so I can eliminate the sht electricity coming from the wall.
You did not spend your money wisely. Titanium is a power efficiency rating. It does in no way clean your electricity power. A good UPS with AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation) does that for you.
If there is a drop of electricity...the lights will flicker for a split second, but the computer will restart immediately. Even the TV stays on, but the only thing affected is the PC
Naturally, most electronics have large capacitor that holds minuscule amounts of electricity which should be enough to keep your TV alive for a split second during power outages. Computers also have capacitors but the higher drain of electric power needs of a PC couldn't keep PCs alive even for a second.
So at this point, if I would like to consider the monitor as well, I guess I need more than 500W power supply and a 900VA UPS.
You already have a 650W Titanium PSU. You don't need another PSU. If you think it's for the monitor then it won't work. Monitors don't run off PSU. They have their own power cord.
What you do need though is a good UPS with AVR. 900VA should do it or go higher if you want to power your computer longer during long blackout session. Just simply connect both your PC's PSU & monitor to your UPS to power both units.
 
A strange thing has happened, and I am blaming it on the GPU, when there is a power spike, and because I have sht power from the wall, the computer restarted turned off cuz for a second the consumption from the GPU was too high. I figured this is where a Titanium PSU comes into play,thus why I spend so much money on it...
:( You should have come here first before buying a Titanium PSU. We could have saved you some money. It is important to note that 80-PLUS certifications are only about PSU efficiency. That is, how much energy is wasted for every watt produced. 80-PLUS certification has absolutely nothing to do with reliability or the quality of the power produced. I generally recommend Gold, or at least Bronze. It typically takes years of use to recover the extra cost of a Titanium in the few points in energy savings.

I am sure you got a quality supply and that is great and very important. So you did not waste all your PSU money. You just spent more than you needed to. But more importantly in your case, you spent extra thinking you would have a more stable system and that is not what Titanium gives you.

As for your system crashing when the lights flicker, I am not surprised. If you (as a human) can "see" the lights flicker, that power fluctuation had to be quite long in duration - typically at least 30 milliseconds (ms). The ATX Form Factor standard requires ATX power supplies to "hold up" (maintain output) for only 17ms during such fluctuations. So it is common for computers to "crash" unexpectedly due to power fluctuations that we (as humans) cannot even see.

TVs (even big screen TVs) have a fairly constant (and relatively low - unless monster sized) power demand during operation. Computer demands vary widely from just a few watts when idle to several 100 watts when tasked hard. It is much easier (and cheaper) to design and build a TV power supply that can maintain output a little longer when the constant load put on that TV supply are so consistent.

While it is true GPUs are often the most power hungry devices in our computers, the demands from your GPU, unless faulty, are not the problem. The problem is your grid power being unstable. If your GPU were faulty, you would be seeing problems at other times too.

As for your computer restarting by itself, that is not uncommon with very short duration power anomalies. But it could also simply be a setting in your BIOS Setup Menu. Since computers are often sitting in an off-site remote location, it is common for BIOS Setup Menus to allow the motherboards/computers to restart once power is restored. This is so the person responsible does not have to make a road trip in the middle of the night on a weekend to reboot after an outage.

I see Rei sneaked in here while I was typing. No problem - I think we reinforced each other. :)

As for that Cyber Power 900VA, I think that would be a wise choice. It should easily provide you several minutes of runtime in the event of a full power outage. But more importantly, its AVR circuitry will protect your connected devices from high voltage anomalies (surges and spikes) and low voltage anomalies too (sags, dips, and brownouts) too. A very good thing.

And it is big enough to easily support your computer, your monitor, and your router and modem too. I might want to consider one of those spider extension cords I mentioned above because the spacing between the outlets on the back of most UPS is usually very limited - especially when using big wall warts.

One last thing. Faulty wiring in your wall outlet or facility grounding to Earth ground can also result in unstable (and dirty) power. Every home and every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure the wall outlet is properly wired and grounded to Earth ground. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets (outlets near water) too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the home and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician.
 
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