• Welcome to TechPowerUp Forums, Guest! Please check out our forum guidelines for info related to our community.
  • The forums have been upgraded with support for dark mode. By default it will follow the setting on your system/browser. You may override it by scrolling to the end of the page and clicking the gears icon.

What's your latest tech purchase?

What was that lesson if you don't mind me asking? o_O I currently have a 2x16 GB kit of Corsair 3200 MHz 16-20-20-38 (Micron) that I'm thinking about upgrading to 3600 or 4000 MHz CL16.

You're probably in the minority, just maybe not on this forum. :D

Don't wanna derail this thread, but I went into it a bit in mine. Post #98, 100, 104


I was of the same opinion as everyone else, that short of gaming on a 3080+ card, B-die is an e-peen exercise. Turns out I was doubly wrong, the night-and-day difference is staring me right in the face every day in War Thunder, MW2019, Insurgency Sandstorm, Genshin Impact, BF1, and MCC. It's not the average FPS that's the problem.

Frustrating though, to know that after that ridiculous list of troubleshooting, the answer was right under my nose the whole time.
 
10 and 11th gen benefits a little (supposedly) in SOTR/ROTR and a few other games. The reason I'm still vacillating is because over about 3600 MHz, you have to turn the IMC to Gear 2 (1:2 ratio with the RAM speed instead of 1:1) which might also affect game performance. With my current 3200 MHz kit, the IMC runs at 1600 MHz, but with a 4000 kit, it would have to run at 1 GHz.

I'm also not sure how much secondary latencies influence gameplay. I mean, CL16 is okay(-ish), but then I have 20-20-38 and a tRFC of 560.
Heeey, I haven't ran SotTR bench after I got my new RAM, I should also give a try as my last run was with the same PC but with the old RAM. These are my settings

1630404010020.png
 
Heeey, I haven't ran SotTR bench after I got my new RAM, I should also give a try as my last run was with the same PC but with the old RAM. These are my settings

View attachment 214891
This is me at the moment.
@tabascosauz The only weirdness I experience is that my bluetooth mouse cuts out for a second from time to time. It didn't do that with previous builds, and it's pretty annoying while I'm playing World of Tanks. Also, Origin creates an exception in the memory nearly every time I turn off the PC. I just click OK, then the computer shuts off, no problem, it's just a bit annoying. It keeps doing this even after a reinstall. I'm not sure if any of this has got anything to do with my RAM. I would have said no, but after reading your posts, I'm not sure anymore.
cpuzmem.png
 
This is me at the moment.
@tabascosauz The only weirdness I experience is that my bluetooth mouse cuts out for a second from time to time. It didn't do that with previous builds, and it's pretty annoying while I'm playing World of Tanks. Also, Origin creates an exception in the memory nearly every time I turn off the PC. I just click OK, then the computer shuts off, no problem, it's just a bit annoying. It keeps doing this even after a reinstall. I'm not sure if any of this has got anything to do with my RAM. I would have said no, but after reading your posts, I'm not sure anymore.

Aside from frametimes, I didn't really have any other issues with the CJR. Don't let me plant seeds of doubt in your mind :laugh: it's probably just software (Origin pepega) or power saving shenanigans somewhere

I had a similar BT mouse issue with my 4650G + B550I Aorus AX on early BIOSes last year. It was fixed through a combination of preventing the AX200 module from powersaving, new AX200 drivers, and new BIOSes. Haven't seen it since early this year.

The reason it was such a big deal for me was because I had literally thrown the entire troubleshooting list at it since I got the game, so there was literally nothing else left aside from the RAM. So you can imagine my surprise.
 
Finally arrived.

20210831_122541.jpg


Now it comes the worst part to install it
Drain half of the loop or risk removing the GPU from the PCIe slot and wrap it into so kind of towel or plastic foil without removing the tubing and hope for no leaking :laugh:
 
The Ryzen's are capped at TDP + 30% roughly, ie 140w. From there you never need to touch voltage and can basically do anything you want within PBO and Curve Optimizer.
I'll have to have a look into it, whilst I was testing the 5950X, I saw that Core Temp was reporting that the CPU was peaking at about 220w I think, that was at 1.25vcore and 46.25x multi, that was getting a touch warm at that speed and around 75 to 80C under load with the AIO I'd got my friend so that was as far as I wanted to push it :) I'll have a look into the PBO just to see what's what :)
Plasma TV eat a lot of power though. It might be worth an upgrade for that reason alone. Then there is contrast(plasma contrast was less than ideal even for the best models), resolution and inputs to consider.


You boys had some fun!
I'd be looking into a 4k set at the very least, even an 8k might be considered if it was any good but I doubt that'll be the case even when you look to spend £2000 on a TV... The Samsung I have has been brilliant and worth every penny for the last 10 years, it's done brilliantly :)

My mate is used to i5 650's and such so something like this will blow his socks off, if only I can get him doing more than one thing on a PC at a time or using it for multiple things I'll be much happier!! :)
View attachment 214885

Never too late for another build, eh? :laugh:
Believe it or not, that was not correct lol!! :) It was about 10pm but because I hadn't bothered changing the time and it wasn't connected online when I had installed Windows, the date and time never updated :)
And I thought that I'm in minority when having 32GB, then people are having 64GB or even moar... :(


Just wondering that how long it would take to count that memory if we would have a memory check/count with the speed of like, a 486? :D
I go with more RAM than I need but that said, I've seen use whilst crunching and folding and doing general internet with over 32GB so, I'm glad I went with 64GB :D I mean after all, I'd go with amount of RAM over the speed as it generally adds so little to the mix but costs a darn site more, I don't believe it's worth it personally.
What was that lesson if you don't mind me asking? o_O I currently have a 2x16 GB kit of Corsair 3200 MHz 16-20-20-38 (Micron) that I'm thinking about upgrading to 3600 or 4000 MHz CL16.


You're probably in the minority, just maybe not on this forum. :D
Not worth it in my opinion, you could because you can, but general performance increase? Next to nothing when you game with a decent GPU and such I'd be sure...
But if you want to prove me wrong...... :D :D :laugh:

Finally arrived.

View attachment 214894

Now it comes the worst part to install it
Drain half of the loop or risk removing the GPU from the PCIe slot and wrap it into so kind of towel or plastic foil without removing the tubing and hope for no leaking :laugh:
Hard tubing?? :D
 
Just wondering that how long it would take to count that memory if we would have a memory check/count with the speed of like, a 486?
It would take a few minutes.

I'd be looking into a 4k set at the very least, even an 8k might be considered if it was any good but I doubt that'll be the case even when you look to spend £2000 on a TV.
8k is a bit premature yet and there is not much available. 4k seems the wiser choice ATM.
The Samsung I have has been brilliant and worth every penny for the last 10 years, it's done brilliantly
Sammy's plasma TVs were a cut above the rest, so no doubts there.
My mate is used to i5 650's and such so something like this will blow his socks off
A quad core to a 16 core with each new core having over 3x the IPC of the previous CPU? Yeah, one could say that's a hell of an upgrade!
 
Last edited:
Hard tubing??
Thanks God i am not a fan of it, for me always soft tubing.

W11 is telling me hurry up drain the damn Loop and install me :roll:
 
Last edited:
Finally arrived.

View attachment 214894

Now it comes the worst part to install it
Drain half of the loop or risk removing the GPU from the PCIe slot and wrap it into so kind of towel or plastic foil without removing the tubing and hope for no leaking :laugh:
That's what QDCs are for!

As long as you can tolerate some minor drips per connect/disconnect cycle (nothing some paper towel can't handle) Alphacool's nylon industrial QDCs are excellent. Half the price of most QDCs, lightweight, no chance of shorts if they touch anything, very sturdy,
easy to operate yet secure when connected,
and decent looks in matte black.
 
Thanks God i am not a fan of it, for me always soft tubing.

W11 is telling me worry up drain the damn Loop and install me :roll:
My mental health is already awful, measuring hard tubes and all that crap with it would drive me totally insane :banghead:
 
This is me at the moment.
@tabascosauz The only weirdness I experience is that my bluetooth mouse cuts out for a second from time to time. It didn't do that with previous builds, and it's pretty annoying while I'm playing World of Tanks. Also, Origin creates an exception in the memory nearly every time I turn off the PC. I just click OK, then the computer shuts off, no problem, it's just a bit annoying. It keeps doing this even after a reinstall. I'm not sure if any of this has got anything to do with my RAM. I would have said no, but after reading your posts, I'm not sure anymore.
View attachment 214892
bluetooth can be screwed with by so many things, theres a max of 7 devices on the 2.4GHz band before they interfere with each other - wifi, bluetooth, etc (a PS5 with 4 controllers maxes that limit on its own, 4 BT controllers, BT in console, wifi in console, wifi in router)
After that, you start getting interference and dropouts if they're all transmitting at once (note that i said START: sometimes it works just fine, and the tech to balance the signals out handles it well)

2.4GHz wireless mice seem a LOT more stable than bluetooth, in my experience - make sure its not next to a data-heavy USB 3 port, run a 2.0 extension if you can to reduce signal distance and move away from interference
 
I go with more RAM than I need but that said, I've seen use whilst crunching and folding and doing general internet with over 32GB so, I'm glad I went with 64GB :D I mean after all, I'd go with amount of RAM over the speed as it generally adds so little to the mix but costs a darn site more, I don't believe it's worth it personally.
I would've got more but actually I would do fine with 16GB, still decided to get 32GB for some futureproofing, I'm not going to upgrade from AM4 in a while..

edit: If I upgrade my CPU, I'll get a 3xxx/5xxx 8-core later on :)
 
Hard tubing??
Thanks God i am not a fan of it, for me always soft tubing.
I admire people who do hard tubing, but soft tubing is less hassle and has benefits to being flexible.

W11 is telling me worry up drain the damn Loop and install me
Dumbass limitations aside, Windows 11 is shaping up to be a worthy successor to Windows 7, and you all know how much I love 7.
 
I admire people who do hard tubing, but soft tubing is less hassle and has benefits to being flexible.
Too much work IMO just for the looks. Yeah, it looks cool, but just nah.
 
Aside from frametimes, I didn't really have any other issues with the CJR. Don't let me plant seeds of doubt in your mind :laugh: it's probably just software (Origin pepega) or power saving shenanigans somewhere

I had a similar BT mouse issue with my 4650G + B550I Aorus AX on early BIOSes last year. It was fixed through a combination of preventing the AX200 module from powersaving, new AX200 drivers, and new BIOSes. Haven't seen it since early this year.

The reason it was such a big deal for me was because I had literally thrown the entire troubleshooting list at it since I got the game, so there was literally nothing else left aside from the RAM. So you can imagine my surprise.
Yeah, Origin is crap. :laugh: As for the bluetooth issue with the mouse, it seems to happen a lot more often in games than on the windows desktop for some reason. It's like the communication between the mouse firmware or driver and the game is lost somewhere. There's no power saving set on the wireless module either. :wtf:

Not worth it in my opinion, you could because you can, but general performance increase? Next to nothing when you game with a decent GPU and such I'd be sure...
But if you want to prove me wrong...... :D :D :laugh:
Dunno. I like playing with new tech, but 2 kits of 16 GB Corsair 4000 MHz CL16 would set me back £300 which is a bit steep, even if I could sell my current kit for half of it (which I probably can't). :D
 
Hardtubing is great if you want the look and you have a set hardware config(IE you don't plan to upgrade much anytime soon). Otherwise, yeah, soft tubing is the way to go.
Soft tubing gives also that old school look which is always cool if u ask me :cool:
 
bluetooth can be screwed with by so many things, theres a max of 7 devices on the 2.4GHz band before they interfere with each other - wifi, bluetooth, etc (a PS5 with 4 controllers maxes that limit on its own, 4 BT controllers, BT in console, wifi in console, wifi in router)
After that, you start getting interference and dropouts if they're all transmitting at once (note that i said START: sometimes it works just fine, and the tech to balance the signals out handles it well)

2.4GHz wireless mice seem a LOT more stable than bluetooth, in my experience - make sure its not next to a data-heavy USB 3 port, run a 2.0 extension if you can to reduce signal distance and move away from interference
Hmm... I've got a phone, my girlfriend's phone, 2 TVs (one of which is almost always off), a printer (which is also almost always off) and my PC on wireless. It seems like a lot, but some of these are on 5 GHz, and I never had dropout issues with previous builds.

The Cherry mouse I have is quite versatile: I could connect it with a wireless dongle if I wanted to, but it doesn't take up a USB port with bluetooth.

Hardtubing is great if you want the look and you have a set hardware config(IE you don't plan to upgrade much anytime soon). Otherwise, yeah, soft tubing is the way to go.
I'm just too scared of building custom loops altogether. AIO is my way to go. :laugh:
 
On bluetooth? I have only the Xbox S controller :cool:

Normally I'm too lazy to get batteries and I play with a cable attached, but for once I go wireless. And a 2EUR cheap Chinese ebay dongle works perfectly.
 
On bluetooth? I have only the Xbox S controller :cool:

Normally I'm too lazy to get batteries and I play with a cable attached, but for once I go wireless. And a 2EUR cheap Chinese ebay dongle works perfectly.
I like the free movement of a mouse with no cable attached. :cool: Also, with bluetooth, there's no need to use a dongle, as the wireless module on my motherboard has an integrated bluetooth receiver. That's why bluetooth is always my first choice when buying a mouse. I personally don't feel any latency issue that people tend to complain about.
 
for unknown reasons I never liked them.
Rather i drain the Loop
Well, to each their own, but you're making yourself do 10-100x the work while you're at it, and many times the risk. QDCs need some room to move and require more fittings, but they are a godsend for ease of use, maintenance and upgradability. I'm never going back to a loop without them after trying one, that's for sure, especially seeing how they make filling, draining and bleeding the loop an absolute breeze. They even allow for assembling components and filling their part of the loop before installing them, which is really handy. Upgrading your GPU? Assemble and pre-fill it, remove the old one, install the new one, done.
 
I like the free movement of a mouse with no cable attached. :cool: Also, with bluetooth, there's no need to use a dongle, as the wireless module on my motherboard has an integrated bluetooth receiver. That's why bluetooth is always my first choice when buying a mouse. I personally don't feel any latency issue that people tend to complain about.
My mouse (Logitech G400s) has served me for almost 7½ years and I'm not gonna replace it as long as it works :cool:
 
Hardtubing is easy to install if you do it like a member from this Forum did, where he should have bent the tubing instead he cut it and used fittings:cool:
 
Hardtubing is easy to install if you do it like a member from this Forum did, where he should have bent the tubing instead he cut it and use a fittings
Sounds just like me doing it, as a person who has broken some hardware by forgotting to tighten fittings and the base of a waterblock...

RIP two mobos (X99 & X470) and a R9 290 because a leaking loop
 
Back
Top