What's your latest tech purchase?

[Selaya]

Tbf the 2060S' one of the best 6(0)-series GPUs ever (it's basically a 2070), so yeah xd
Guess Jensen's not making that mistake ever again, hence the lackluster 3060

 

[Rithsom]

Disassembled the accursed demon of diabolical cooler design - also known as 2060 Super Founders Edition, prepping for waterblock tomorrow.

The reference PCB (which this one is technically if it had the 8-pin in the right place) isn't even that bad, the EVGA cards prove that. But Nvidia just couldn't leave it well enough alone.

View attachment 227804

Since I went through the same pain of putting a waterblock on a 2060 Super, I must ask: what do you plan on doing about that 8-pin power connector that is hanging off of the PCB? Pretty much every waterblock available for the 2060S/2070 FE is only as long as the PCB itself. Unless you do some soldering work, that connector will stick out awkwardly.

I installed a Corsair Hydro X Series waterblock on my 2060S. As you can see in the pictures below, the block has a dedicated cutout for the 8-pin in case I wanted to re-solder it directly to the PCB. But the block also has an opening on the end in case I wanted to leave the 8-pin alone. I went with the latter route because I was not comfortable with soldering.

After installing the card in my system, I bent the 8-pin down because it was getting in the way of my reservoir. The end result isn't ideal, but it doesn't look horrible, I guess. I'm curious to see what you do.

 

[Deleted member 24505]

Since I went through the same pain of putting a waterblock on a 2060 Super, I must ask: what do you plan on doing about that 8-pin power connector that is hanging off of the PCB? Pretty much every waterblock available for the 2060S/2070 FE is only as long as the PCB itself. Unless you do some soldering work, that connector will stick out awkwardly.

I installed a Corsair Hydro X Series waterblock on my 2060S. As you can see in the pictures below, the block has a dedicated cutout for the 8-pin in case I wanted to re-solder it directly to the PCB. But the block also has an opening on the end in case I wanted to leave the 8-pin alone. I went with the latter route because I was not comfortable with soldering.

After installing the card in my system, I bent the 8-pin down because it was getting in the way of my reservoir. The end result isn't ideal, but it doesn't look horrible, I guess. I'm curious to see what you do.

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Is that CPU and GPU on a single 140mm? radiator. How does that do?

 

[Rithsom]

Is that CPU and GPU on a single 140mm? radiator. How does that do?

Yes. And it does surprisingly well, considering! During gaming, the GPU sits at around 55 degrees on average. The CPU averages around 70. The water temp stays below 45 degrees at all times.

I would've used a 240mm instead of a 140mm radiator, but I didn't have enough clearance to install one due to my motherboard.

 

[Anoniem]

Yes. And it does surprisingly well, considering! During gaming, the GPU sits at around 55 degrees on average. The CPU averages around 70. The water temp stays below 45 degrees at all times.

I would've used a 240mm instead of a 140mm radiator, but I didn't have enough clearance to install one due to my motherboard.

It is a rather tricky situation considering that in this config you can't mount a 240mm on the front either with pump/res bracket. I'm pretty surprised by how well it handles your config. The 2700x and 2060 Super don't pull that much power but both combined it's still ~300-330 watts when they are maxed out. Should be around 230-270 watts depending on the game, nice work man!

 

[Deleted member 24505]

Since I went through the same pain of putting a waterblock on a 2060 Super, I must ask: what do you plan on doing about that 8-pin power connector that is hanging off of the PCB? Pretty much every waterblock available for the 2060S/2070 FE is only as long as the PCB itself. Unless you do some soldering work, that connector will stick out awkwardly.

I installed a Corsair Hydro X Series waterblock on my 2060S. As you can see in the pictures below, the block has a dedicated cutout for the 8-pin in case I wanted to re-solder it directly to the PCB. But the block also has an opening on the end in case I wanted to leave the 8-pin alone. I went with the latter route because I was not comfortable with soldering.

After installing the card in my system, I bent the 8-pin down because it was getting in the way of my reservoir. The end result isn't ideal, but it doesn't look horrible, I guess. I'm curious to see what you do.

View attachment 227828



View attachment 227825

What about 240 rad on front and res on backplate next to MB?

 

[tabascosauz]

@Rithsom damn, respect! And with the leaky XG7 no less

The Bitspower block is the same length as the FE cooler because it reuses the FE backplate (gorgeous!). The block includes a large spacer that fills the void from the end of the PCB to the end of the card, which has a cutout for the pigtail, and supposedly a locking notch to keep the connector in place.

The chonky Alphacool block also basically has the same accommodations for the pigtail (although it also has the reference cutout so it looks kinda weird). The Bykski block also has a notched cutout to securely hold the pigtail at the end of the card, integrated directly into the plexi on the main block, but no backplate I think.

The Corsair block unfortunately forces you to either hang it off the end of the card, or do this super risky folding maneuver to bring it into the reference hole. I am only aware of a single other guy who documented his FE + XG7 experience on the web, you can browse some of his reddit posts showing off the folded over connector:

Reddit - Dive into anything

www.reddit.com

(not my photo and not my rig)

My parts are out for delivery today, so hopefully stay tuned for some photos.

 

[Rithsom]

What about 240 rad on front and res on backplate next to MB?

@Anoniem basically nailed it. I cannot fit a rad and fans on the front mesh and simultaneously have a res anywhere in that area. Not to mention that the holes on the back wall do not line up with my res support.

@Rithsom damn, respect! And with the leaky XG7 no less

The Bitspower block is the same length as the FE cooler because it reuses the FE backplate (gorgeous!). The block includes a large spacer that fills the void from the end of the PCB to the end of the card, which has a cutout for the pigtail, and supposedly a locking notch to keep the connector in place.

The chonky Alphacool block also basically has the same accommodations for the pigtail (although it also has the reference cutout so it looks kinda weird). The Bykski block also has a notched cutout to securely hold the pigtail at the end of the card, integrated directly into the plexi on the main block, but no backplate I think.

The Corsair block unfortunately forces you to either hang it off the end of the card, or do this super risky folding maneuver to being it into the reference hole. I am only aware of a single other guy who documented his FE + XG7 experience on the web, you can browse some of his reddit posts showing off the folded over connector:

Reddit - Dive into anything

www.reddit.com

View attachment 227840

Thanks! I wasn't aware of all of those waterblock options from Bitspower, Alphacool, and Bykski. It's been almost two years since I installed mine, so maybe options were limited at the time.

And yeah, hopefully my Corsair block doesn't leak any time soon! When I saw JayzTwoCents' video on the matter, I freaked out so much, lol.

 

[INSTG8R]

My 970 Evo Pro is gonna be jealous my games are getting the Gen4 love

 

[Deleted member 24505]

@Rithsom damn, respect! And with the leaky XG7 no less

The Bitspower block is the same length as the FE cooler because it reuses the FE backplate (gorgeous!). The block includes a large spacer that fills the void from the end of the PCB to the end of the card, which has a cutout for the pigtail, and supposedly a locking notch to keep the connector in place.

The chonky Alphacool block also basically has the same accommodations for the pigtail (although it also has the reference cutout so it looks kinda weird). The Bykski block also has a notched cutout to securely hold the pigtail at the end of the card, integrated directly into the plexi on the main block, but no backplate I think.

The Corsair block unfortunately forces you to either hang it off the end of the card, or do this super risky folding maneuver to bring it into the reference hole. I am only aware of a single other guy who documented his FE + XG7 experience on the web, you can browse some of his reddit posts showing off the folded over connector:

Reddit - Dive into anything

www.reddit.com

View attachment 227840

My parts are out for delivery today, so hopefully stay tuned for some photos.

V nice, but where's the drain valve?

 

[Remeca]

Replacement for a 2016 Samsung Tab A 10.1, which only got up to Android 8.1, a Samsung Tab A7 lite.

Used for Netflix, casual gaming and looking up recipes.

 

[tabascosauz]

V nice, but where's the drain valve?

not mine lol, that's the redditor with the creative 8-pin routing in the XG7 block

mine will be re-finished soon after I waterblock my card today

 

[Deleted member 24505]

not mine lol, that's the redditor with the creative 8-pin routing in the XG7 block

mine will be re-finished soon after I waterblock my card today

looking forward to seeing it.

I'll be posting pics of mine tomorrow as the o11D XL is coming tomorrow along with the EK PE 360 rad

 

[tabascosauz]

Got some quick pics for y'all curious about the Bitspower block. The build is back together in the Cerb X now, but not as clean as the CPU-only loop in the Cerb.

When trying to work on the super short res-GPU run, I tore some of the threads out of the res outlet (stainless backplate but the threads are in the acetal body). Not an issue in the end as the fittings still tightened fine and everything is tested air-tight and water-tight - but I reckon the next time I have to strip this rig down and rebuild for whatever reason, probably won't be able to use this res again.

Can't complain about these temps though. Some quick Insurgency Sandstorm, 1440p capped at 120fps. On air would usually be at about 72.5C, 180W, ~1780MHz, same undervolt curve as usual. Under water it hangs around the 40C mark and clocks stay at ~1995MHz.

 

[Selaya]

wow, thats some gain (in boost) from putting a GPU on water

 

[Deleted member 24505]

GPU's always benefit from water cooling imo. my 980 ti is 54c max at 100% at 1507 core.

 

[Mussels]

wow, thats some gain (in boost) from putting a GPU on water

I was farting about with my GTX1080 last night, stock clock is 1600Mhz

It auto boosts to 2150Mhz, just because it's at 35C at full load.
Some GPU generations are temp limited, some power limited

 

[phill]

More packages arrived today. This is not the CPU (a 3960X) that is going in this build. I bought it as I couldn't find a good deal on a 3970X. However, I did find one and it is on its way!
View attachment 227417

It's not like I need one, but I'm not jealous of your TR rigs at all.....

Ah yes, ye olde threadripper gaming system


With only 144MB cache, are you sure it'll be okay?

Do de doo, guess who got a WD AN1500 1TB for free

They overcharged, sent the wrong item three times and after i mentioned that i've been paying interest and fees for all this (and a $300 item that charged $800) they just said "woops, refund and keep item"

Guess i better reboot and see how she goes in an x4 slot first? With a mere 1TB, i may not care about using an x8 slot (which would feed off my GPU)

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So, free and in she goes

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2x SN730 vs 1x SN850

PCI-E 3.0 x4 vs NVME 4.0 x4
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Moved up, speeds did not increase as much as they were meant to
To take this shot, i slid the window from AS SSD over into reality, before taking the photo
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You sir, are a legend

Your posts deserve a because I see them, laugh, enjoy the content and move on to the next This is why I love TPU so much!!

Hey i'm nearly 40, things start to sag a little (Perspective/angle of shot, went a little fisheye)


I need to decide if going from 3.2GB/s -> 5.8GB/s (wheres my advertised 6.4??) is worth the GPU dropping to x8

Priceless...

USPS delivered this beauty today!
View attachment 227803

I'm not jealous, I'm not jealous....

Many I need to keep saying it to believe it........

Love them!!

 

[Rithsom]

Got some quick pics for y'all curious about the Bitspower block. The build is back together in the Cerb X now, but not as clean as the CPU-only loop in the Cerb.

When trying to work on the super short res-GPU run, I tore some of the threads out of the res outlet (stainless backplate but the threads are in the acetal body). Not an issue in the end as the fittings still tightened fine and everything is tested air-tight and water-tight - but I reckon the next time I have to strip this rig down and rebuild for whatever reason, probably won't be able to use this res again.

View attachment 227936
View attachment 227937 View attachment 227935

Can't complain about these temps though. Some quick Insurgency Sandstorm, 1440p capped at 120fps. On air would usually be at about 72.5C, 180W, ~1780MHz, same undervolt curve as usual. Under water it hangs around the 40C mark and clocks stay at ~1995MHz.

View attachment 227938

Absolutely gorgeous! I totally would've gone for that waterblock myself had I known it existed.

And those temps aren't too shabby either!

 

[Selaya]

I was farting about with my GTX1080 last night, stock clock is 1600Mhz

It auto boosts to 2150Mhz, just because it's at 35C at full load.
Some GPU generations are temp limited, some power limited

damn.

that def makes me want to do custom loop for my next build, ngl

 

[Deleted member 24505]

I'll be ordering this kit on friday. wanting 2x16gb ddr4 budget will be upto 200 quid
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/team...00c16-3600mhz-dual-channel-kit-my-002-8p.html

 

[Mussels]

damn.

that def makes me want to do custom loop for my next build, ngl

Thats with an NZXT kraken G12 and an old Corsair H115 (280mm AIO)

This 3090 is the first power limited card i've owned (even when unlocked, 450W is just... insane) where my older cards had temperature limits, so even an AIO was godly on those.

 

[Splinterdog]

I'm trying out this Logitech Master MX 3 mouse. It's big, very comfortable and has an amazing infinite scroll wheel and a horizontal scroll which is useful for timelines etc. Also the battery life is amazing, lasting for days on end. No RGB of course, which probably helps the battery life.
As for gaming, it works just fine with no difference in performance to my wired Corsair M65 Pro.

 

[Mussels]

the horizontal scroll works great for in-game stuff too, like MOBA and MMO

Scroll up/down to cast X spell, for example

 

[tabascosauz]

Because case internal temps are much better with the GPU under water (somehow since doesn't that heat still go into the case in the end??), no longer had to run an extra fan on the side bracket to keep the RAM below 50. Now the Silent Wings in the top of the case can do the job alone. Previously CPU-only loop had Motherboard temps in the 45-55C range, now Motherboard temps stay in the 30-40C range under load.

And because of that, can finally run this case's acrylic side panel for the first time

I was farting about with my GTX1080 last night, stock clock is 1600Mhz

It auto boosts to 2150Mhz, just because it's at 35C at full load.
Some GPU generations are temp limited, some power limited

You know what's funny, my first impression was that water was holding me back, because in quite a few of my games the GPU wasn't even drawing close to the 180W it should be hitting at max load. Sometimes as low as just 120W, but utilization still relatively high and effective clocks sitting comfortably over 2000MHz. Then I realized it was probably because of the FPS cap I set for better smoothness but still mostly the same phenomenon without the cap

I tried OC scanner, but it failed miserably and told me +65 core/+100 mem and that it would be unstable. So I just Alt+clicked my existing undervolt curve up a few notches at one volt point higher (0.994V??) and I'll probably just keep going until I start running into instability. Have memory sitting at +500 now but probably a fair bit more room due to being Samsung