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PC not displaying anything after changing thermal paste

A

adam7659

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Jul 8, 2023
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Hey! I recently decided to clean out my rig and replace the thermal paste on my cpu however it now only boots up and displays nothing.
 
Re-check to see everything is seated properly
 
If lucky, all you did was knock loose a power cable. As Dia01 correctly suggested, re-check everything.

Out of curiosity, why did you replace the TIM (thermal interface material)? There is no reason unless the cured bond has been broken and that is unlikely to happen unless the computer was abused (bounced off the floor) or the heatsink was replaced for some reason. TIM will easily last 5, 10 or more years. If the few degrees of improvement one might achieve with new TIM is actually needed to prevent crossing over thermal protection thresholds, there are other, more urgent cooling issues that need to be addressed first - like case cooling.

Ironically, it is not uncommon for that cured bond to be broken by users who twist the cooler too hard when checking to see if it is loose. :( Yet, it is highly unlikely a cooler that is mounted properly in the first place, would ever become loose, unless again, the computer was dropped, or kicked, or drop-kicked.

Sadly, knocking something loose, zapping something through a static discharge (ESD), inadequate cleaning of the old TIM, improper application of new TIM are common causes of problems users (newbies and distracted pros alike) encounter after replacing the TIM. This is why it should not be done, unless again, the cured bond is broken.

Not one TIM maker, CPU maker, GPU maker, computer maker, cooler maker recommends TIM be replaced just because it has been some time since applied.
 
adam7659 said:
one of my ram sticks was loose
Click to expand...
Been there. Done that. (More than once) Usually after some intense 'clenching'. :laugh:

Glad it was simple.
 
adam7659 said:
one of my ram sticks was loose
Click to expand...
Ummm, that is not something that would easily (if at all) happen when reapplying TIM. Therefore, I would suspect it was never properly/completely inserted in the first place and you moving the computer around during your re-pasting caused the stick to wiggle enough to create a disconnect.

My concern is "IF" the stick was never completely inserted in the first place, then over the span of time until now, dirt, dander, potato chip crumbs, cigarette and kitchen smoke, hair and other crud may have settled in the RAM slot and on the exposed RAM stick contacts. Not good.

So if me, I would unplug the computer from the wall, touch bare metal of the case interior to discharge any static in my body, then carefully remove that stick and set it aside for now. Then I would blast the RAM slot on the motherboard with some quality electrical contact cleaner. I recommend using CRC QD Electronic Cleaner or WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner.

Typically, the power from the spray is enough for most cleaning jobs. But if the dirt is stubborn, I spray it with the contact cleaner then give it a soft scrub with a acid brush. Then spray it again to rinse it out. Again, if me, I would probably turn the system upside down so any excess spray would drip out. Excess cleaner won't hurt the board or anything else, but if allowed to puddle, it may leave a stain once evaporated. Eye protection may be prudent here too.

Touch bare metal again and then spray the electrical contacts of the RAM stick and give them a gentle rub dry with a soft, cotton cloth. If you can see tarnish, very carefully and gently "erase" the contacts clean with a clean, soft, rubber pencil eraser. Then, before reinserting the stick, blast it with contact cleaner or compressed air or a can of dusting gas to ensure all the eraser crumbs are gone.

Reinserting the stick should then scrape clean any contaminates remaining on the slot and RAM contacts. This action ensures an optimal "mechanical contact", essential for the most efficient "electrical contact".
 
Bill_Bright said:
Ummm, that is not something that would easily (if at all) happen when reapplying TIM. Therefore, I would suspect it was never properly/completely inserted in the first place and you moving the computer around during your re-pasting caused the stick to wiggle enough to create a disconnect.

My concern is "IF" the stick was never completely inserted in the first place, then over the span of time until now, dirt, dander, potato chip crumbs, cigarette and kitchen smoke, hair and other crud may have settled in the RAM slot and on the exposed RAM stick contacts. Not good.

So if me, I would unplug the computer from the wall, touch bare metal of the case interior to discharge any static in my body, then carefully remove that stick and set it aside for now. Then I would blast the RAM slot on the motherboard with some quality electrical contact cleaner. I recommend using CRC QD Electronic Cleaner or WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner.

Typically, the power from the spray is enough for most cleaning jobs. But if the dirt is stubborn, I spray it with the contact cleaner then give it a soft scrub with a acid brush. Then spray it again to rinse it out. Again, if me, I would probably turn the system upside down so any excess spray would drip out. Excess cleaner won't hurt the board or anything else, but if allowed to puddle, it may leave a stain once evaporated. Eye protection may be prudent here too.

Touch bare metal again and then spray the electrical contacts of the RAM stick and give them a gentle rub dry with a soft, cotton cloth. If you can see tarnish, very carefully and gently "erase" the contacts clean with a clean, soft, rubber pencil eraser. Then, before reinserting the stick, blast it with contact cleaner or compressed air or a can of dusting gas to ensure all the eraser crumbs are gone.

Reinserting the stick should then scrape clean any contaminates remaining on the slot and RAM contacts. This action ensures an optimal "mechanical contact", essential for the most efficient "electrical contact".
Click to expand...
A soft brustle toothbrush can be used in lieu of an acid brush.
 
eidairaman1 said:
A soft brustle toothbrush can be used in lieu of an acid brush.
Click to expand...
True. I mention acid brushes because the bristles are specifically chosen because they don't dissolve when exposed to most chemical cleaning agents. Not sure about toothbrush bristles.

Plus, I keep a stash on hand because they work great for spreading soldering flux, rubber cement, and other messy stuff.
 
Bill_Bright said:
True. I mention acid brushes because the bristles are specifically chosen because they don't dissolve when exposed to most chemical cleaning agents. Not sure about toothbrush bristles.

Plus, I keep a stash on hand because they work great for spreading soldering flux, rubber cement, and other messy stuff.
Click to expand...
They dont rot under isopropanol, i doubt flux or cement will kill them.
Maybe Gasoline (saw that it ate a plastic cup lid via vapors only)
 
I have certainly used old toothbrushes for lots of cleaning jobs - to include around faucets with CLR/Lime-A-Way - which is acidic - with no problems. The right-angle of a toothbrush can be convenient. But I am not so sure all toothbrushes would be safe - especially no-name generic brushes.

The acid brushes, on the other hand, are made for harsher agents while still being soft. And they are easy to find. Walmart has 12 for $12, for example.

If using a toothbrush to clean electrical contacts, I would make sure it is either new, or thoroughly cleaned of toothpaste and trench mouth yuck first. ;)
 
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