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Brass waterblock corrosion repairable or replace?

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Hello! I have corrosion on my brass cpu waterblock where the fins are, sorry no pic right now. This was im sure caused by me using it before with an aluminum radiator. I recently spent $350 on a all copper Supernova 1260 radiator with accesories. When i took everything apart the cpu waterblock was black, I scrubbed it with a toothbrush under tap water, but it was still tarnished a black color on the cold plate where the fins are inside. I threw away the aluminum radiator, got new tubing, new fittings, and the mentioned new copper radiator and set all the new stuff up with the discolored cpu block.

Does anyone know if I can continue using the block like this or should i clean it better somehow or buy a new one? Im kinda worried it might mess up the new radiator. Hardware and cooling system in my system specs.
 
Hello! I have corrosion on my brass cpu waterblock where the fins are, sorry no pic right now. This was im sure caused by me using it before with an aluminum radiator. I recently spent $350 on a all copper Supernova 1260 radiator with accesories. When i took everything apart the cpu waterblock was black, I scrubbed it with a toothbrush under tap water, but it was still tarnished a black color on the cold plate where the fins are inside. I threw away the aluminum radiator, got new tubing, new fittings, and the mentioned new copper radiator and set all the new stuff up with the discolored cpu block.

Does anyone know if I can continue using the block like this or should i clean it better somehow or buy a new one? Im kinda worried it might mess up the new radiator. Hardware and cooling system in my system specs.
Are the fins still intact? Is it the Phobya UC-1 Extreme mentioned in your specs because that looks like a copper cold plate.
 
Fins are intact. The waterblock is a Phobya UC-1 Extreme Brass Edition.
 
Try a soft bristled toothbrush and some metal polish then clean it off with Isopropyl Alcohol
 
Will not the metal polish introduce chemicals into my loop? I thought only to use dishsoap, and not even vinegar.
 
I have corrosion on my brass cpu waterblock

If you don't mind me asking, what fluid were you using?

Also, I think your cpu block should be ok to re-use.
 
Old fluid was Mayhems Clear. New fluid is Primochill liquid utopia that came with my tubing it has anti algae and corrossion inhibitors.

I forgot to mention the tubing was black Primochill. It could be copper oxidation? but i think it's corrossion from when i used the waterblock with 2 aluminum radiators. The copper or brass just turned black. Im just worried about my recent investment in my new $300 copper radiator. If I dont get the stuff off the cpu waterblock will it mess up the rest of my cooling system? The fins under the jetplate in the block looked fine, just black.

Its all hooked up as is with the new radiator and stained cpu waterblock. Ive turned the machine off for now until I decide what to do. Leave it, clean cpu waterblock, or replace the cpu waterblock. Thanks for input and recommendations here.

It looks like this guys pic who said Does your Norprene tubing do this to copper blocks? | Overclock.net.
 

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Get a bottle of CLR(not the spray). Take your block apart and place it in a glass or plastic bowl deep enough that your block can be fully submerged in the CLR. Let it sit for 10 minutes. Go at it with your toothbrush a bit before taking it out. You probably won't get anything off of it but it may have loose bits hanging around. Rinse it thoroughly in tap water. Then a quick rinse with distilled. Dry it off and your block is now as clean as humanly possible. You can now reintegrate it into your loop worry free.

If the fins are black you may not be able to clean them any further. CLR is the only thing that I've found that will clean corroded copper/brass blocks and rads. It works best if you don't try to clean them with anything else prior to using it. Staining becomes permanent in that case.
 
Ok i will get some CLR tomorrow as it is late night here. Thank you.

Will this work like CLR? It has corrosive hydrochloric acid in it and says its for cleaning toilets. Says Rust Calcium Lime called Lime Away heres a pic.
1689092195418.png
 
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Ok i will get some CLR tomorrow as it is late night here. Thank you.

Will this work like CLR? It has corrosive hydrochloric acid in it and says its for cleaning toilets. Says Rust Calcium Lime called Lime Away heres a pic.View attachment 304374
LOL RCL
 
Or try vinegar
 
Or try vinegar
Vinegar won't touch black discoloration. It can work well with dirty rads or sometimes fingerprints but for the most part vinegar won't do anything with heavy corrosion.
 
Will not the metal polish introduce chemicals into my loop? I thought only to use dishsoap, and not even vinegar.
nope not if clean it off with Isopropyl Alcohol afterwards
 
Crest toothpaste works wonders
Whiting toothpaste to brihten the colors back to cooper instead of blackish greenish.
1 Ek block with nickel plating got eaten by alu+coper loop, Did the same with the toothpaste and brush works still.
1 Ek gpu block same thing same nickle plating got eaten away clean with toothbrush and paste and its still working fine.
 
OP made my day, hope you can fix the problems.
 
Get a bottle of CLR(not the spray). Take your block apart and place it in a glass or plastic bowl deep enough that your block can be fully submerged in the CLR. Let it sit for 10 minutes. Go at it with your toothbrush a bit before taking it out. You probably won't get anything off of it but it may have loose bits hanging around. Rinse it thoroughly in tap water. Then a quick rinse with distilled. Dry it off and your block is now as clean as humanly possible. You can now reintegrate it into your loop worry free.

If the fins are black you may not be able to clean them any further. CLR is the only thing that I've found that will clean corroded copper/brass blocks and rads. It works best if you don't try to clean them with anything else prior to using it. Staining becomes permanent in that case.
Next to using a glass bead media blaster which could introduce pits if not done with caution (extreme clean use low pressure)
 
Vinegar won't touch black discoloration. It can work well with dirty rads or sometimes fingerprints but for the most part vinegar won't do anything with heavy corrosion.
What about 30% concentrate vinegar?
 
What about 30% concentrate vinegar?
I use 35% to flush my loop then run distilled water through to rinse. My EK block is full nickle and my rad is full copper.
 
I use 35% to flush my loop then run distilled water through to rinse. My EK block is full nickle and my rad is full copper.
Full nickle not nickel plated? Interesting.
 
What about 30% concentrate vinegar?
It works really well for maintaining and keeping an existing loop clean but using it for cleaning stained or blackened copper/brass isn't effective. Once a block has turned black it's virtually impossible to remove it short of sanding or scraping it off.
 
Next to using a glass bead media blaster which could introduce pits if not done with caution (extreme clean use low pressure)
Dry Ice blasting would be a better solution all the good perf of glass bead but none of the downsides
 
Hello! I have corrosion on my brass cpu waterblock where the fins are, sorry no pic right now. This was im sure caused by me using it before with an aluminum radiator. I recently spent $350 on a all copper Supernova 1260 radiator with accesories. When i took everything apart the cpu waterblock was black, I scrubbed it with a toothbrush under tap water, but it was still tarnished a black color on the cold plate where the fins are inside. I threw away the aluminum radiator, got new tubing, new fittings, and the mentioned new copper radiator and set all the new stuff up with the discolored cpu block.

Does anyone know if I can continue using the block like this or should i clean it better somehow or buy a new one? Im kinda worried it might mess up the new radiator. Hardware and cooling system in my system specs.

Personally I would just buy a new 1150 block. Check on ebay for NIB they are not that expensive.
 
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Full nickle not nickel plated? Interesting.
I mean I just assumed plated was a given.
 
I mean you be the judge? I can only say it's heavy AF...
Ooo I didn't realise they were doing that. I can imagine the weight.
Looks like EK is having a fire sale at the moment, AM4 velocity2 full nickel is less than the price of velocity2 plexi!
Too bad they don't put some fins on the top of full nickel blocks.
 
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