Swapping the front I/O panel (ComEZ Classico Storage Master Case)

[TPCEA]

I bought the Classico to review and because it seemed like it might be a good alternative to my current 5000x. The fans totally suck (oops, not a pun), having plastic that's too soft and delicate, and they use Molex D. But that's beside the point.

The front I/O has got 2 USB 2.0 A and 1 USB 3.0 A. I want to swap it for something that only supports 3.2A and 3.2C, plus power button, mic jack, speaker jack and (preferably) a recessed reset button. If there are other things, that's fine. Extra USB is also great.

I asked the vendor who said that there is no replacement for that part.

So, how can I replace or mod this part to have what I want? Where are good places to look for replacement I/O panels?

 

[TPCEA]

How difficult would it be to mod the I/O panel so that it supports at least USB 3.2A if not C?

 

[bonehead123]

If you post a pic of the back side (interior) of the I/O panel, it would be easier to say how easy or difficult it would be to mod the panel to the specs you want...but from the pics I see online, the exterior looks fairly standard.

Swapping out the USB 2 & 3 ports for 3.1/3.2 would be relatively straightforward, but you would have to make a cut-out for a USB-C port, preferably with a dremel tool

So, how are the cables from the mobo and the ports themselves attached to the back of the I/O panel ? with screws, hot glue or some other method ?

Also, does your mobo have the correct connectors to support the types & speeds of the cables & ports you want to install ? If not, you won't be gaining anything by making the mod...

(Warning: shameless self-promo forthcoming !)

Note that if you wanna move forward with the mod, I have some of the cables you would need, as I did similar mod on another case a while back, which don't have any more but kept the cables

 

[TPCEA]

If you post a pic of the back side (interior) of the I/O panel, it would be easier to say how easy or difficult it would be to mod the panel to the specs you want...but from the pics I see online, the exterior looks fairly standard.

Swapping out the USB 2 & 3 ports for 3.1/3.2 would be relatively straightforward, but you would have to make a cut-out for a USB-C port, preferably with a dremel tool

So, how are the cables from the mobo and the ports themselves attached to the back of the I/O panel ? with screws, hot glue or some other method ?

Also, does your mobo have the correct connectors to support the types & speeds of the cables & ports you want to install ? If not, you won't be gaining anything by making the mod...

(Warning: shameless self-promo forthcoming !)

Note that if you wanna move forward with the mod, I have some of the cables you would need, as I did similar mod on another case a while back, which don't have any more but kept the cables

There's no mobo at this time, although that may eventually happen. No money at this time to create a second PC. If I were to get a mobo, it would support USB 3.x.

I have a "Dremel" tool from Wen, along with a nice collection of bits and stuff.

I'm not worried about the USB 3.0 port - I can live with that., if that's what it takes. However, I'd like to only have 3.x ports on the front, with at least one being USB-C.

The wires for the USB 2.0 A ports appear to be soldered to the PCB via the connectors.

The USB 3.0 port is screwed into place as one unit including the cable.

 

[LabRat 891]

Search Terms (that'll be helpful):

"Type-E to Type-C" (The 'modern' mobo header for 3.x Type-Cs, is called USB Type-E)

"Panel Mount" (tiny chance it'll be easily 'modded in')

"Flush Mount" (cut hole, stick in, 'pops in' like a drywall anchor. Common for automotive installs)

Opinion/Option for USB 3.2 Type-A:
Use the existing "USB 3.0".

AFAIK (Non-Type-C) USB 3.# Gen# all use the same connectors and pinouts as USB 3.0 did*. You'll probably be fine using the existing FP USB3 Type-A for USB 3.# Gen# Type-A.

Ever notice poorer audio quality with FP ports, or front USB2.0 transferring slower than the same 'gen' port on the back? It's EMI-related.
Thankfully, Even 'old' chassis' "USB 3.0" FP has been generally much better-shielded than USB 1.#-2.0 FP leads.
*IIRC, USB3.0 is electrically identical to USB3.2 Gen1. TBQH, I'm not sure USB 3.2 Gen2 20Gbps Type-A "front panel" leads + receptacles are any different than "USB 3.0" of the same.

In this case , think:
-multi-gig / 10GBASE-T ethernet over short runs of 'CAT5' vs. "proper" CAT6A
(or S/FTP / STP).

Properly connected to your USB3.2 Header (or extended from a rear-mobo 3.2 Type-A), you should still get expected/rated speeds.
Note: regardless of how well constructed and shielded your new USB 3.2 FP ports/extensions are, you still may get a little less bandwidth vs. direct into mobo rear-I/O.

Also, keep in mind that a single Type-C uses 2(two) USB-connections(lanes?).
If your board has both a USB3 19-pin header and a USBC Type-E header, you'll be g2g just modding-in a USB-C.



An Option for Type-C:

IMHO,
Desolder the 'rightmost' USB-A 1.0-2.0, 2-part kneadable epoxy (and/or hot glue) the new Type-C female (like, from a M-F ext. cable or Type-E-to-Type-C adapter) onto the PCB, in-line w/ the rectangular hole in the case.
You'd end-up with 1x USB 2.0-A, 1x USB 3.2-C, and 1x USB 3.2-A. All, without having to do any surgery to the case, and only needing 1x USB-C extension/Type-E adapter.
You might even be able to get a USB-A rubber dust cover and exacto-out the USB-C's shape for a hole-filling plug around the new Type-C. Some moldable eraser, hot glue, etc. to mould and 'fill in' the open space around the new Type-C receptacle would work too.
'filling in around' it, and making it snug with the existing Type-A cutout will provide some support/strain-relief for the new receptacle. 'should look nicer, too.

If one were careful to keep the moldable-material out of the Type-C receptacle (ex. some cables I've bought have 'protectors' in the plugs), one could use some wood or something to keep the uncured material flush w/ the case's surface.
(or, come back after curing, and use a razor blade/xacto knife, to carefully flush-trim)
Some black paint (applied with a toothpick) or black marker on the face of newly-created 'molded receptacle' would make it look less out of place. (preferably, removed from the case; to avoid ruining the finish on the case)

You could also delete both the USB 2.0's entirely, and use the PCB as mounting-point for both a Type-C and a Type-A USB 3.2 receptacle.
(Or, 2x 3.2 Type-A using something like this, and 1x USB-C 3.2 in the 3.0A's 'spot' using a "panel mount" Female-C.)
You'd be 100% USB 3.2-capable up front without cutting on the case, and while only-needing 1 or 2 affordable-available extensions/adapters.

 

[bonehead123]

^^This^^ yep 4 sure, explained it better than I could have, thx @LabRat 891

 

[TPCEA]

Search Terms (that'll be helpful):

"Type-E to Type-C" (The 'modern' mobo header for 3.x Type-Cs, is called USB Type-E)

"Panel Mount" (tiny chance it'll be easily 'modded in')
View attachment 320268
"Flush Mount" (cut hole, stick in, 'pops in' like a drywall anchor. Common for automotive installs)
View attachment 320269



Opinion/Option for USB 3.2 Type-A:
Use the existing "USB 3.0".

AFAIK (Non-Type-C) USB 3.# Gen# all use the same connectors and pinouts as USB 3.0 did*. You'll probably be fine using the existing FP USB3 Type-A for USB 3.# Gen# Type-A.

Ever notice poorer audio quality with FP ports, or front USB2.0 transferring slower than the same 'gen' port on the back? It's EMI-related.
Thankfully, Even 'old' chassis' "USB 3.0" FP has been generally much better-shielded than USB 1.#-2.0 FP leads.
*IIRC, USB3.0 is electrically identical to USB3.2 Gen1. TBQH, I'm not sure USB 3.2 Gen2 20Gbps Type-A "front panel" leads + receptacles are any different than "USB 3.0" of the same.

In this case , think:
-multi-gig / 10GBASE-T ethernet over short runs of 'CAT5' vs. "proper" CAT6A
(or S/FTP / STP).

Properly connected to your USB3.2 Header (or extended from a rear-mobo 3.2 Type-A), you should still get expected/rated speeds.
Note: regardless of how well constructed and shielded your new USB 3.2 FP ports/extensions are, you still may get a little less bandwidth vs. direct into mobo rear-I/O.

Also, keep in mind that a single Type-C uses 2(two) USB-connections(lanes?).
If your board has both a USB3 19-pin header and a USBC Type-E header, you'll be g2g just modding-in a USB-C.



An Option for Type-C:
View attachment 320285View attachment 320286
IMHO,
Desolder the 'rightmost' USB-A 1.0-2.0, 2-part kneadable epoxy (and/or hot glue) the new Type-C female (like, from a M-F ext. cable or Type-E-to-Type-C adapter) onto the PCB, in-line w/ the rectangular hole in the case.
You'd end-up with 1x USB 2.0-A, 1x USB 3.2-C, and 1x USB 3.2-A. All, without having to do any surgery to the case, and only needing 1x USB-C extension/Type-E adapter.
You might even be able to get a USB-A rubber dust cover and exacto-out the USB-C's shape for a hole-filling plug around the new Type-C. Some moldable eraser, hot glue, etc. to mould and 'fill in' the open space around the new Type-C receptacle would work too.
'filling in around' it, and making it snug with the existing Type-A cutout will provide some support/strain-relief for the new receptacle. 'should look nicer, too.

If one were careful to keep the moldable-material out of the Type-C receptacle (ex. some cables I've bought have 'protectors' in the plugs), one could use some wood or something to keep the uncured material flush w/ the case's surface.
(or, come back after curing, and use a razor blade/xacto knife, to carefully flush-trim)
Some black paint (applied with a toothpick) or black marker on the face of newly-created 'molded receptacle' would make it look less out of place. (preferably, removed from the case; to avoid ruining the finish on the case)

You could also delete both the USB 2.0's entirely, and use the PCB as mounting-point for both a Type-C and a Type-A USB 3.2 receptacle.
(Or, 2x 3.2 Type-A using something like this, and 1x USB-C 3.2 in the 3.0A's 'spot' using a "panel mount" Female-C.)
You'd be 100% USB 3.2-capable up front without cutting on the case, and while only-needing 1 or 2 affordable-available extensions/adapters.

Great! Thanks! So, I could also remove the 3.0 cable and replace it with the 3.2C cable, and remove both 2.0 ports and replace them with 3.0 (cuz who needs 2.0 if you can have 3.0, right? I mean, there's no disadvantage to upgrading both to 3.0, is there?