Amd FX Fan Vs. Amd Wraith Stealth.

[Warcore 8400gs]

hello! my biggest poblem on this computer is this frickin fan. it cant just cool enough. my CPU could only handle about 30W (of 65). i thinked of it so much that i actually dreamed about it. i dreamed i attached another heatsink and magically my CPU was being able to pull as many as she wanted staying at 75C.

i got a AMD Fx fan and a AMD Athlon fan. the athlon fan is designed for 65W (as i used on my old CPU). but the FX fan, i dont really know what processor it was. i know it was an FX, so there is a pretty good chance of something higher than 65W.
i want to know if changing the wraith stealth by the FX fan gonna cool the CPU better.

i also finded a Celeron D heatsink with cooper.
i cant really buy a new fan for now, and a heatsink. i know this heatsink is pretty lame on its own (i tested its temp while running). just want to know if the FX performs better than the Wraith Stealth, maybe its worth.
(the FX fan is a AVC fan. pulls 0.7A from 12V.)
EDIT: i dont care about noise.

 

[ShrimpBrime]

The problem is the heatsink is all aluminum. The fan upgrade may actually help a little, but won't know until you try it.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Personally, I don't know much about specific AMD OEM coolers other than the fact, if mounted properly, and when the case is providing a decent flow of cool air through the case, OEM coolers (both AMD and Intel) are more than adequate at providing sufficient cooling for the CPUs they came with - at default settings.

So, proper mounting implies a proper application of TIM (thermal interface material). That is, as thin as possible while still providing complete coverage over the die. It also means the cured bond of the TIM is not broken and the cooler is secured at all 4 corners with even force.

Contrary to what many believe and advise, TIM does not need to be regularly replaced. It will EASILY last 5, 10, 15 years or longer AS LONG AS the cured bond is not broken. If broken, for any reason, the mating surfaces MUST be thoroughly cleaned and a fresh "new" layer of TIM properly applied.

Yes, replacing aged TIM with a fresh new layer might yield a few, 5 - 6 degrees improvement in temps but the fact is, if you "NEED" 5 - 6 degrees to keep from crossing thermal protection thresholds, then you are already too close to them and you have other, more urgent cooling needs to address first - like case cooling.

To that, I have never heard of case Flare computer cases and cannot find anything on them. Plus, we don't know what model it is anyway. Regardless, even the best CPU cooler becomes almost worthless if there is not sufficient supply of cool air flowing through the case to exhaust the heated air the CPU cooler removed from the CPU.

Then there is ambient (room) temperatures. Higher room temps will result in higher computer temps.

So, to answer your question...

i want to know if changing the wraith stealth by the FX fan gonna cool the CPU better.

...no way to tell at this point. Is your current cooler mounted properly?

What do you have for case cooling? You typically want a good front to back flow of cool air through the case. I like at least one fan in front and one in back (not counting the PSU's fan). Larger (140mm) fans are typically better than smaller 120mm fans as they move more air (and usually at a slower RPM making less noise too - a good thing).

Last (for now), is the case interior clean of heat trapping dust?

Other than that, I agree with ShrimpBrime and you really won't know until you try. Regardless, even with a better cooler, you still need a good supply of cool air flowing through the case, the case must be free of heat trapping dust, and the TIM must be properly applied. So I would check that before swapping out coolers.

Oh, and most likely unrelated to your heat issues, but I would start budgeting for a replacement for that "Prob Generic 400W PSU" soon.

 

[QuietBob]

What is your CPU model exactly and temps under all-core load?

The Wraith Stealth is a 65 W TDP cooler. It should be able to keep any such CPU at about 80 C under heavy load (with moderate ambient and case airflow).

 

[Shou Miko]

In the latest video from Bryan over at Tech yes city he had to replace the thermal paste on AMD Wrath cooler to get it to cool properly.

Not sure if that could be an issue?

I use my own stock cooler these days and I will agree with Bryan in one of his earlier videos he said it is a good cooler when you only use it on a 65watt cpu.

 

[Warcore 8400gs]

Personally, I don't know much about specific AMD OEM coolers other than the fact, if mounted properly, and when the case is providing a decent flow of cool air through the case, OEM coolers (both AMD and Intel) are more than adequate at providing sufficient cooling for the CPUs they came with - at default settings.

So, proper mounting implies a proper application of TIM (thermal interface material). That is, as thin as possible while still providing complete coverage over the die. It also means the cured bond of the TIM is not broken and the cooler is secured at all 4 corners with even force.

Contrary to what many believe and advise, TIM does not need to be regularly replaced. It will EASILY last 5, 10, 15 years or longer AS LONG AS the cured bond is not broken. If broken, for any reason, the mating surfaces MUST be thoroughly cleaned and a fresh "new" layer of TIM properly applied.

Yes, replacing aged TIM with a fresh new layer might yield a few, 5 - 6 degrees improvement in temps but the fact is, if you "NEED" 5 - 6 degrees to keep from crossing thermal protection thresholds, then you are already too close to them and you have other, more urgent cooling needs to address first - like case cooling.

To that, I have never heard of case Flare computer cases and cannot find anything on them. Plus, we don't know what model it is anyway. Regardless, even the best CPU cooler becomes almost worthless if there is not sufficient supply of cool air flowing through the case to exhaust the heated air the CPU cooler removed from the CPU.

Then there is ambient (room) temperatures. Higher room temps will result in higher computer temps.

So, to answer your question...

...no way to tell at this point. Is your current cooler mounted properly?

What do you have for case cooling? You typically want a good front to back flow of cool air through the case. I like at least one fan in front and one in back (not counting the PSU's fan). Larger (140mm) fans are typically better than smaller 120mm fans as they move more air (and usually at a slower RPM making less noise too - a good thing).

Last (for now), is the case interior clean of heat trapping dust?

Other than that, I agree with ShrimpBrime and you really won't know until you try. Regardless, even with a better cooler, you still need a good supply of cool air flowing through the case, the case must be free of heat trapping dust, and the TIM must be properly applied. So I would check that before swapping out coolers.

Oh, and most likely unrelated to your heat issues, but I would start budgeting for a replacement for that "Prob Generic 400W PSU" soon.

What is your CPU model exactly and temps under all-core load?

The Wraith Stealth is a 65 W TDP cooler and should keep any such CPU at no more than 80 C under heavy load (with moderate ambient and case airflow).

AMD Ryzen 5 4600G.
under all core load, it reminas at around 75C-80C peaking at 81C. but on beamNG, it gets on the limit quickly. i also ran full cpu photogrammetry (which is bad, but without a proper Nvidia GPU is what i have for now, Flare is made by TgT, which is brazzilian. the case itself is not cool with airflow. i will send a photo with the only front air entrance to give you a look.

the air entrance itself is below that RGB. i dont have any case fans. i've tried using that AMD FX fan as somehow a intake, but it did not work.
Without the case glass, the temps do drop a little, but in the end, its really the same way. drops around 2C.
this computer is premade. Thor III bought from Pichau. its the seocnd time they mount this computer. and, for my own surprise, between the two "Mounts" the temps remain the same. i can do a little test by pressing a bit the cooler under load and see if the watt consumption changes a little. if it goes up, probably is bad mounting.

Personally, I don't know much about specific AMD OEM coolers other than the fact, if mounted properly, and when the case is providing a decent flow of cool air through the case, OEM coolers (both AMD and Intel) are more than adequate at providing sufficient cooling for the CPUs they came with - at default settings.

So, proper mounting implies a proper application of TIM (thermal interface material). That is, as thin as possible while still providing complete coverage over the die. It also means the cured bond of the TIM is not broken and the cooler is secured at all 4 corners with even force.

Contrary to what many believe and advise, TIM does not need to be regularly replaced. It will EASILY last 5, 10, 15 years or longer AS LONG AS the cured bond is not broken. If broken, for any reason, the mating surfaces MUST be thoroughly cleaned and a fresh "new" layer of TIM properly applied.

Yes, replacing aged TIM with a fresh new layer might yield a few, 5 - 6 degrees improvement in temps but the fact is, if you "NEED" 5 - 6 degrees to keep from crossing thermal protection thresholds, then you are already too close to them and you have other, more urgent cooling needs to address first - like case cooling.

To that, I have never heard of case Flare computer cases and cannot find anything on them. Plus, we don't know what model it is anyway. Regardless, even the best CPU cooler becomes almost worthless if there is not sufficient supply of cool air flowing through the case to exhaust the heated air the CPU cooler removed from the CPU.

Then there is ambient (room) temperatures. Higher room temps will result in higher computer temps.

So, to answer your question...

...no way to tell at this point. Is your current cooler mounted properly?

What do you have for case cooling? You typically want a good front to back flow of cool air through the case. I like at least one fan in front and one in back (not counting the PSU's fan). Larger (140mm) fans are typically better than smaller 120mm fans as they move more air (and usually at a slower RPM making less noise too - a good thing).

Last (for now), is the case interior clean of heat trapping dust?

Other than that, I agree with ShrimpBrime and you really won't know until you try. Regardless, even with a better cooler, you still need a good supply of cool air flowing through the case, the case must be free of heat trapping dust, and the TIM must be properly applied. So I would check that before swapping out coolers.

Oh, and most likely unrelated to your heat issues, but I would start budgeting for a replacement for that "Prob Generic 400W PSU" soon.

also, this PSU is fine as long i dont overclock. i did some research on her. Thunder 400W PSU. its not great, but for now its good. on the good side, she never really ramped her cooler. with a 65W, which is better than nothing.

 

[Bill_Bright]

i dont have any case fans.

Really? Are you sure? If the only flow of cool air through the case is created by the PSU's fan, that is probably your problem since PSU fans are designed to cool the PSU, not the entire computer.

You need to add at least one exhaust fan in back and preferably a second fan as an intake in front.

In the meantime, I would remove the case's side panel and blast a desk fan in there.

 

[Warcore 8400gs]

In the latest video from Bryan over at Tech yes city he had to replace the thermal paste on AMD Wrath cooler to get it to cool properly.

Not sure if that could be an issue?

I use my own stock cooler these days and I will agree with Bryan in one of his earlier videos he said it is a good cooler when you only use it on a 65watt cpu.

the last time i tried changing my termal pase did not go well, it was on my ol PC. the cooler was liftesd up, and the CPU got onboard iwht t on the ride, then some pins got damaged, and well, you can guess what happens next. fear.

Really? Are you sure? If the only flow of cool air through the case is created by the PSU's fan, that is probably your problem since PSU fans are designed to cool the PSU, not the entire computer.

You need to add at least one exhaust fan in back and preferably a second fan as an intake in front.

In the meantime, I would remove the case's side panel and blast a desk fan in there.

i have one at the back, but its probably weak. it came along with the Case, it is 120MM.

Really? Are you sure? If the only flow of cool air through the case is created by the PSU's fan, that is probably your problem since PSU fans are designed to cool the PSU, not the entire computer.

You need to add at least one exhaust fan in back and preferably a second fan as an intake in front.

In the meantime, I would remove the case's side panel and blast a desk fan in there.

Really? Are you sure? If the only flow of cool air through the case is created by the PSU's fan, that is probably your problem since PSU fans are designed to cool the PSU, not the entire computer.

You need to add at least one exhaust fan in back and preferably a second fan as an intake in front.

In the meantime, I would remove the case's side panel and blast a desk fan in there.

i tried that one time, did nothing. (also tkaing care of not overRPMing the CPU fan)

 

[Shihab]

I use the Wraith Stealth, and it has kept my stock-configured, with IGP unused/disabled 5600G decently cooled even when the ambient was in the mid 30s (centigrade). This chip is rated for 65W, though I don't know if that includes the IGP or not.

Back then I did use a relatively well ventilated Corsair 780T. It still runs well on my current Bitfenix, but I haven't stressed it in environments hotter than 30.

 

[Warcore 8400gs]

I use the Wraith Stealth, and it has kept my stock-configured, with IGP unused/disabled 5600G decently cooled even when the ambient was in the mid 30s (centigrade). This chip is rated for 65W, though I don't know if that includes the IGP or not.

Back then I did use a relatively well ventilated Corsair 780T. It still runs well on my current Bitfenix, but I haven't stressed it in environments hotter than 30.

cant tell if this is black magic, or what. but mine does not do that
but well, i think my only hope is well, changing thermal paste. which, as i learned from my errors-- i will take care when doing that.
what thermal paste do you guys reccomend? i have not a lot of money. im receiving around 200BRL. or 35,66 In dollar.
im not changing CPU soon, the this 4600G gonna tank the following years fine for what i want to do. so if the Stock CPU cooler can do his job of at leasting not letting my CPU explode under load, i will be hppy.

 

[Bill_Bright]

but well, i think my only hope is well, changing thermal paste.

No! Not unless the cured bond is broken. And that is not likely unless you bounced your computer off the floor, or you twisted the cooler too hard when seeing if loose.

Once again, it is critical to understand it is the case's responsibility to supply an adequate supply of cool air flowing through the case. And it is the user's responsibility to properly setup of case cooling. The CPU cooler need only toss the CPUs heat into that air flow. With an inadequate flow, the CPU's heat has no where to go.

You can easily test this by blasting a desk fan into the open case. If your problems go away, you have inadequate case cooling and you need to add another fan or replace the current one that you already said is weak.

 

[Warcore 8400gs]

No! Not unless the cured bond is broken. And that is not likely unless you bounced your computer off the floor, or you twisted the cooler too hard when seeing if loose.

Once again, it is critical to understand it is the case's responsibility to supply an adequate supply of cool air flowing through the case. And it is the user's responsibility to properly setup of case cooling. The CPU cooler need only toss the CPUs heat into that air flow. With an inadequate flow, the CPU's heat has no where to go.

You can easily test this by blasting a desk fan into the open case. If your problems go away, you have inadequate case cooling and you need to add another fan or replace the current one that you already said is weak.

after i turned on the fan, nteh computer got to around 47/48W of consumption. after i turned off, it stayed at 48W. evne peaked a 50W.
(with the case open obviously.)

 

[Bill_Bright]

I would be more concerned with your temps. But I feel like I'm spinning my wheels here. Good luck.

 

[Warcore 8400gs]

I would be more concerned with your temps. But I feel like I'm spinning my wheels here. Good luck.

temps remains the same. im measuring the watt consumption to see the difference. no amtter what i do, it will always stick to 86C (the limit i set to). so i can measure the cooling capacity.
if the cooling capactiy is greater than the total heat output of the processor, it wont get to the limit. simple.

 

[Bill_Bright]

simple.

And yet you are still wrestling with it. Oh well. I do wish you luck and hope you resolve it soon.

 

[Warcore 8400gs]

And yet you are still wrestling with it. Oh well. I do wish you luck and hope you resolve it soon.

And yet you are still wrestling with it. Oh well. I do wish you luck and hope you resolve it soon.

im sticky to those kind of poblemns, my brain wont surrender UNTIL i fix that poblem. still thanks for the help!

 

[Bones]

There are at least two variants of an FX fan, you want the Wraith cooler because it has copper in it's construction, heatpipes and so on.
There is another for lesser FX models with a simple copper slug in the middle of the cooler, that's used for 4 series FX chips that tend to not get too hot like an 8 series chip can under load.

If you have one, an old Socket 939 Opteron cooler is also nearly identical to a Wraith cooler, it also has the copper baseplate and heatpipes like a good Wraith cooler has but mounting may or may not be an issue because (IIRC) the mount once you latch it down can be a bit tight or loose, I just can't remember which way that goes between these two sockets.
Best bet is to match the cooler (In what's it's made for) to the socket you have in your system.

For an AM4, definitely get an AM4 Wraith cooler with the copper bottom plate and heatpipes and you should be OK.

 

[NSR]

This sounds like a thermal paste or contact issue tbh. The wreath stealth shouldn't be struggling on a low power CPU.

 

[Shou Miko]

the last time i tried changing my termal pase did not go well, it was on my ol PC. the cooler was liftesd up, and the CPU got onboard iwht t on the ride, then some pins got damaged, and well, you can guess what happens next. fear.

It's not that hard changing thermal paste not even on am4 you just need to careful how you take the cooler off on am4.

Depending on how sticky the thermal paste is you can rip the cpu out of the am4 socket.

But honestly if you haven't used the stock cooler for long it shouldn't really be an issue unscrewing it and take it off without the cpu coming out with it.

 

[dgianstefani]

Good coolers are $20-30 just grab one of those.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Depending on how sticky the thermal paste is you can rip the cpu out of the am4 socket.

Which is why the best practice is to first warm up the heatsink and then, GENTLY twist the heat sink back and forth to break the bond BEFORE pulling on the heatsink.

Note if you cannot run the computer a few minutes to warm up the heat sink first, careful warming with a hair dryer on the heatsink works great.

 

[ShrimpBrime]

Which is why the best practice is to first warm up the heatsink and then, GENTLY twist the heat sink back and forth to break the bond BEFORE pulling on the heatsink.

Note if you cannot run the computer a few minutes to warm up the heat sink first, careful warming with a hair dryer on the heatsink works great.

The stealth cooler doesn't cover the entire IHS plate. The cooler should easily come off the cpu.

But I think he meant just swapping the fan, not the entire cooler, though he should.

 

[Jimster480]

hello! my biggest poblem on this computer is this frickin fan. it cant just cool enough. my CPU could only handle about 30W (of 65). i thinked of it so much that i actually dreamed about it. i dreamed i attached another heatsink and magically my CPU was being able to pull as many as she wanted staying at 75C.

i got a AMD Fx fan and a AMD Athlon fan. the athlon fan is designed for 65W (as i used on my old CPU). but the FX fan, i dont really know what processor it was. i know it was an FX, so there is a pretty good chance of something higher than 65W.
i want to know if changing the wraith stealth by the FX fan gonna cool the CPU better.

i also finded a Celeron D heatsink with cooper.
i cant really buy a new fan for now, and a heatsink. i know this heatsink is pretty lame on its own (i tested its temp while running). just want to know if the FX performs better than the Wraith Stealth, maybe its worth.
(the FX fan is a AVC fan. pulls 0.7A from 12V.)
EDIT: i dont care about noise.

Post a picture of it; some of the FX CPU's came with AMD's 140W+ king cooler with heatpipes. That little cooler is the same one that came on the 1090T and 1100T and will definitely beat the pants off of a wraith stealth while being quite small. I just retired mine 2 weeks ago for a Thermalright x47 Full only to find out that.... it isn't really much better than the original AMD design.... which didn't require me to remove the motherboard.