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Motherboard sometimes resets BIOS without losing power.

Joined
Mar 18, 2024
Messages
279 (0.61/day)
Location
Queensland, Australia
System Name Aged Veteran
Processor Ryzen 5 5600
Motherboard Aorus X370 Gaming 5
Cooling Cooler Master ML240L V2
Memory 3200mhz CL16 Silicon Power (2 X 16GB)
Video Card(s) Aorus 5700 XT
Storage Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500GB + Crucial P3 1TB
Display(s) XG2431
Case Cooler Master MB TG520
Audio Device(s) HyperX Cloud Alpha
Power Supply AP850GM
Mouse LAMZU Maya X
Keyboard Redragon K614
Software Windows 11 Home
Benchmark Scores 4.7GHZ on the CPU at 1.3 Volts
So my X370 Gaming 5 has been messing around a little, It just reset its own bios despite the fact there was no power loss. How should I troubleshoot and fix it?
 
CR2032 google it

They are cheap and still common
 
I'll multimeter it, what should the voltage be?
Not good enough. A battery is a power supply and like all power supplies, should be tested under a proper load. It is common for batteries to show proper voltage when checked with a multimeter but when inserted in circuit, the voltage immediately drops significantly.

These CR2032 batteries are inexpensive and available almost anywhere batteries are sold.

Note, when removing the old battery, be sure to unplug the computer from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior to discharge any static in your body BEFORE reaching in. Observe the polarity, then remove the old battery. Do NOT touch the new battery with your bare fingers - skin oils promote corrosion and attract dust. I put a clean sock over my hand.

Observing polarity, insert the new battery, double check ALL cables to ensure they are securely fastened, then connect power and boot directly into the BIOS Setup Menu. Check/reset the date and time and ensure the boot order is correct. Then Save and Exit and it should boot properly.
 
I'm not sure if measuring an open loop voltage on a cr2032 makes sense.

I replace much earlier those in my car remote when I get the feeling they act up. personally i would replace the battery first without measuring.
 
So my X370 Gaming 5 has been messing around a little, It just reset its own bios despite the fact there was no power loss. How should I troubleshoot and fix it?
This is an indication of a bios chip going bad.

In less often cases, the power circuit for the RTC is bad, may be a fuse circuit thats open, the fuse popped. Alternatively, the PSU is bad and shutting the signal circuit off completely when powering down the board.

I wish you luck!
 
personally i would replace the battery first without measuring.
Right. As noted, they are inexpensive. If the new battery makes no difference, then you have a spare. These batteries are used in many devices these days. The computer on my bicycle uses 2 of them! I have a little home weather station that uses two in the outdoor sensor unit. Pretty common these days.

I replace much earlier those in my car remote when I get the feeling they act up.
Knock on wood, but I'm still have the original battery in the key fob for my 2010 F150. That's 15 years!
 
Low quality post by rusty caterpillar
I'm not sure if measuring an open loop voltage on a cr2032 makes sense.

I replace much earlier those in my car remote when I get the feeling they act up. personally i would replace the battery first without measuring.
Or wait for CHN nuclear version with the Ni Isotope and never changing it again, have a green glow to :D
 
The poster asked what voltage he may measure. I think the open circuit voltage fits, page 2. Therefore 3.3V DC may also be right.


NOMINAL VOLTAGE 3.0V is something different as the open circuit voltage.

you may read the provided datasheet first.

Another datasheet, pay attention to the open circuit please

page 6 discharge curve

two datasheets should be enough to clarify the open circuit voltage and the nominal voltage and other parameters
 
So my X370 Gaming 5 has been messing around a little, It just reset its own bios despite the fact there was no power loss.

I thought that the BIOS battery was only used when the computer was off.

But, yes, just try a new one (at 8 years old it probably needs replacing)
 
Last edited:
I thought that the BIOS battery was only used when the computer was off.
It depend on what you mean by "off". If the PSU is plugged in and the master power switch on the back of the PSU is set to "On" or "|", the PSU is still supplying +5Vsb standby voltage to various parts of the motherboard, including the CMOS and BIOS circuits.

So in that event, the CMOS and BIOS settings are being maintained by that +5Vsb and not the battery. HOWEVER, the battery is still in the circuit. These are NOT rechargeable batteries there is some drain, just very little.

It just reset its own bios despite the fact there was no power loss.
Which is a symptom of a bad CMOS battery.

HOWEVER,
This is an indication of a bios chip going bad.
This is also true. But as noted, CR2032 batteries are inexpensive, and easy to replace. So in terms of troubleshooting, trying a new battery is the first step - and perhaps last since there's no way for normal users to replace a faulty BIOS IC. That often means it is new motherboard time - unless still under warranty.
 
It depend on what you mean by "off". If the PSU is plugged in and the master power switch on the back of the PSU is set to "On" or "|", the PSU is still supplying +5Vsb standby voltage to various parts of the motherboard, including the CMOS and BIOS circuits.

So in that event, the CMOS and BIOS settings are being maintained by that +5Vsb and not the battery. HOWEVER, the battery is still in the circuit. These are NOT rechargeable batteries there is some drain, just very little.


Which is a symptom of a bad CMOS battery.

HOWEVER,

This is also true. But as noted, CR2032 batteries are inexpensive, and easy to replace. So in terms of troubleshooting, trying a new battery is the first step - and perhaps last since there's no way for normal users to replace a faulty BIOS IC. That often means it is new motherboard time - unless still under warranty.
If the PSU switch is on, you can remove the battery and the bios should retain the bios settings.

Now in the distant past, like socket A 462 pin past, some boards would refuse to post without a good battery.

So of course try the battery first!
 
If the PSU switch is on, you can remove the battery and the bios should retain the bios settings.
True - because, as noted above the PSU is still supplying +5Vsb.

However, one must be VERY careful digging around inside the case when the power supply master switch is set to "On" to avoid accidentally shorting out a circuit and potentially destroying a critical component. For example, if you accidently drop the removed battery onto the motherboard, you might need to start shopping for a new motherboard.

Now in the distant past, like socket A 462 pin past, some boards would refuse to post without a good battery.
Also true - and often a source of great frustration. I am glad that is no longer the case. A faulty system with a motherboard that boots with a total BIOS reset is much easier to troubleshoot than motherboard that refuses to boot at all.
 
That often means it is new motherboard time - unless still under warranty.
I don't think an X370 will still be under warranty at this point.

Also, stupid me forgot to check the damn thing :banghead:
 
Did you replace the battery?
 
Right. As noted, they are inexpensive. If the new battery makes no difference, then you have a spare. These batteries are used in many devices these days. The computer on my bicycle uses 2 of them! I have a little home weather station that uses two in the outdoor sensor unit. Pretty common these days.


Knock on wood, but I'm still have the original battery in the key fob for my 2010 F150. That's 15 years!
True, but testing it is free and a good place to start. It's not a guarantee, but if the battery voltage is good, it may be a different problem.
I don't think an X370 will still be under warranty at this point.

Also, stupid me forgot to check the damn thing :banghead:
After checking if the battery is good and/or replacing it, try switching to your backup BIOS. The gaming 5 had the dual BIOS option.
 
I'd just update the BIOS as a first step.

You could, however you are now denying yourself the knowledge that comes from troubleshooting.

He should switch to the backup BIOS first, then run the PC and see if the issue returns. If it doesnt return, then update the main BIOS and see if the issue returns. If the issue remains on the backup BIOS then flashing the main BIOS will do him no good. It's also a good idea to make sure your backup BIOS is working since, if this is a bad BIOS flash chip, there is a chance the flash could wipe out the chip entirely or break it in new undesirable ways.
 
He should switch to the backup BIOS first, then run the PC and see if the issue returns. If it doesnt return, then update the main BIOS and see if the issue returns. If the issue remains on the backup BIOS then flashing the main BIOS will do him no good. It's also a good idea to make sure your backup BIOS is working since, if this is a bad BIOS flash chip, there is a chance the flash could wipe out the chip entirely or break it in new undesirable ways.
My 2nd BIOS doesn't support my current CPU.
 
My 2nd BIOS doesn't support my current CPU.
Upgrade it to the latest, replae the CMOS battery, and then continue the discussion.

No reason to discuss more at this time.
 
True, but testing it is free and a good place to start.
I agree but not the point. The battery, any battery, needs to be tested under load in order for the test to be valid and conclusive. Just placing multimeter probes on both poles of a battery does NOT put any load on the battery. The battery could, and often does, appear good with no load but as soon as you put it back in circuit, its output drops below usable potentials.

So, you must either test it "in-circuit" or with a proper battery tester. And for CR2032 CMOS applications, I do NOT recommend sticking two, sharp, highly conductive probes into the heart of a computer - unless qualified, have steady hands and good lighting.

So, I recommend using a real battery tester, one that has an integrated "dummy load". Even a simple, inexpensive "button battery" tester like this is better than sticking sharp meter probes in there, and because of the integrated load, the results are valid and conclusive.

If you already have a suitable tester (and I recommend those who frequency work on computers get one), then fine. Test it. But if no tester, then because new batteries are inexpensive, just buy a new one. If it doesn't resolve the problem, the monetary loss is small, and most likely, you have or will have other devices in the home that uses them.

I have several devices that use CR2032 batteries, plus I do computer maintenance. I used to buy Energizer batteries but in the last few years have been buying these and have not been disappointed - hard to beat at $0.50 a piece. They seem to last as long as the Energizers too.

replae the CMOS battery, and then continue the discussion.

No reason to discuss more at this time.
I agree. You need to replace the battery to at least remove it from the equation, before discussing what might be the problem any further.
 
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