ASUS Prime Z890 only booted the first time trying, now not even the power buttons light up.

[Plexiglas]

Just upgraded my PC to a Core Ultra 7 265k, DDR5 and the Prime Z890-P.

Essentially just swapped out my old Prime Z390-A and made sure the standoffs were in the correct position before putting the new board in.

I pressed the power button on my case, to which the power led consistently blinked every second. Got into bios fine, turned it off and when I tried to boot it again... Nothing, not even the case buttons LEDs.

I've tried using 1 stick of ram. Unplugging almost everything. I've bought a MSI MPG 850W PSU thinking maybe my old be quiet was just on its last legs. Used different plug sockets and PSU cables.

I've disassembled it, checked it over for any obvious shorts and couldnt see any. I removed the CPU and inspected it and there is no visible damage.

Cleared CMOS, tried BIOS Flash back (for some reason the usbs still have power). I used a digital pen type multimeter and it didn't pick up any voltage on things like fan headers, PCIE, basically any of the pins on the motherboard, only on the PSU power cable.

When plugging the DP cable into either GPU or Motherboard the monitor will turn on but say no signal.

I think I may have a more comprehensive multimeter somewhere in the garage that can measure current, voltage and resistance. So will try and find it if it's any use for diagnosing.

Would appreciate some advice on what to do?

Thanks.

Heads up if your considering this board... It has virtually no diagnostic tools, I got it thinking it would have plenty like my previous Prime Z390.

 

[Dr. Dro]

Are you able to try the old PSU? And are there any LEDs lit up on the board? Usually a white or orange LED, should be solid on.

 

[_roman_]

When the board is Similar to the ASUS Prime X670-P Mainboard your only option are to set specific values in the uefi. I used the case powerled as a diagnosis led.
The board led flashes with different speed according to the stage where the board is. pre post / post / post done phase.
I also heard where the baord is when the fans were at 100% during bootup. It helps when you have the fans set to a defined value much below 100%.

Prime ASUS Mainobard are definitely a no go for myself after using one for 2 years. I just have put in a MSI mainboard a few days ago. Firmware bugs, UEFI bugs, Windows bugs, no updates, bad quality, partly ripped usb connector. Plastic went off from an inside usb connector while removing the usb cable.

How to boot.
check the power button cable. Before that carefully read the mainboard manual and short the power button pin with a flat screwdriver
I would try to reseat the case cables again.

If you want to measure a psu with a multimeter you need to shorten two pins. Else you will not be able to. That procedure is very well explained on any page for the atx 20 or 24 pin conector.

 

[Plexiglas]

Are you able to try the old PSU? And are there any LEDs lit up on the board? Usually a white or orange LED, should be solid on.

No LEDs on the board that I know of, the manual doesn't mention them either saying the case power LEDs are used for diagnostics. And since pressing the power button does nothing (no fans either) I'm left with a single green LEDs that turns on when I attempted to use the USB BIOS Flash tool.

Yes I can attempt with the old power supply but the reason I got this new one was because the same thing happened with it.

I've attached a picture of the LED for bios flashback.

 

[Plexiglas]

When the board is Similar to the ASUS Prime X670-P Mainboard your only option are to set specific values in the uefi. I used the case powerled as a diagnosis led.
The board led flashes with different speed according to the stage where the board is. pre post / post / post done phase.
I also heard where the baord is when the fans were at 100% during bootup. It helps when you have the fans set to a defined value much below 100%.

Prime ASUS Mainobard are definitely a no go for myself after using one for 2 years. I just have put in a MSI mainboard a few days ago. Firmware bugs, UEFI bugs, Windows bugs, no updates, bad quality, partly ripped usb connector. Plastic went off from an inside usb connector while removing the usb cable.

How to boot.
check the power button cable. Before that carefully read the mainboard manual and short the power button pin with a flat screwdriver
I would try to reseat the case cables again.

If you want to measure a psu with a multimeter you need to shorten two pins. Else you will not be able to. That procedure is very well explained on any page for the atx 20 or 24 pin conector.

I've checked both sides of the power button connector and they seem to be not damaged.

Have already shorted it, swapped out the CMOS battery from my z390 too.

 

[Plexiglas]

I think I have a speaker lying around somewhere for debugging motherboards, are they still useful today?

 

[Plexiglas]

Yeah the 12v rail failed. Back to using my ASUS Prime Z390 for now.

Yeah glad it was faulty in a way considering how many features it was missing compared to the z390. Guess I'll try another brand.

 

[Dr. Dro]

I think I have a speaker lying around somewhere for debugging motherboards, are they still useful today?

If such header exists on the board, yes, they are still useful

Yeah the 12v rail failed. Back to using my ASUS Prime Z390 for now.

Yeah glad it was faulty in a way considering how many features it was missing compared to the z390. Guess I'll try another brand.

Motherboard side? Insane. But yea, I'd suggest grabbing something with the debug code reader if you're going to return or RMA and sell that one. They're usually only available on more premium boards but, if you ask of me, avoiding any troubleshooting headaches are well worth the extra bucks.

 

[oxrufiioxo]

Motherboard side? Insane. But yea, I'd suggest grabbing something with the debug code reader if you're going to return or RMA and sell that one. They're usually only available on more premium boards but, if you ask of me, avoiding any troubleshooting headaches are well worth the extra bucks.

At a minimum boards should have trouble shooting leds and not the BS Asus has implemented on their budget boards. Although with the OPs board straight up dying it would not have mattered if it had a post code or not.

 

[Plexiglas]

Had look over the board again and notice this. Is this the culprit?

 

[ty_ger]

Had look over the board again and notice this. Is this the culprit?

Probably

 

[_roman_]

That does not look good. I assume it is not glue or any other stuff which can be removed very easily.

 

[Plexiglas]

I've already got a new board, higher end one this time and it's just work first time yay. Ran the intel diagnostic tool just to see whether the CPU had been damaged and from what it could test it's fine.

 

[_roman_]

Which mainboard did you bought?

 

[Plexiglas]

Which mainboard did you bought?

I chose another ASUS board because I wanted same-day Amazon delivery, and the TUF Gaming Z890 Pro Wifi was the only quality option that wasn't stupid expensive available for quick shipping. It has features the features I was expecting on the other board and the codec is decent.

I messed up like an idiot though when I was taking the broken board out of my case. My finger had some sort of nerve spasm and it gently tapped the CPU socket, so now 1 pin looks slightly out of place... There goes my refund. Like why was my hand even near the socket, i am an idiot.