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2080Ti stuck on 300Mhz Core Clock under load

zeohi

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I'm having issues with what I think to be my videocard. Ever since a few days ago, I'm getting incredibly low FPS in all games across the board. Some games went from 200 to 70 and some went from 100 to ~30. It's been unplayable.

The card is a 2080TI ROG STRIX, OC Edition

I fully reseated all my components. I reformatted my PC. I ran DDU and installed the latest drivers. I tried all sorts of temperature monitoring and usage checking and everything looks normal. It honestly just seems like my GPU decided to just stop trying hard.

Here is my userbench score: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/28991698
Here is my NVIDIA Inspector information:
You can see the core clock is just chilling at 300MHz which after some research is fine while idling, however it refuses to ever activate even running benchmarks, playing games, etc.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, please.
 

Regeneration

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In the Nvidia control panel, set power management to prefer maximum performance. Also try a older driver.
 

zeohi

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In the Nvidia control panel, set power management to prefer maximum performance.

Also try an older driver.
I tried the power management thing already to no avail. I'll try some old drivers now
 

Regeneration

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See if you can borrow a power supply from anyone just to try.

Failure to engage 3D clocks sounds like power issue or dying card that needs to be RMAed.
 

zeohi

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See if you can borrow a power supply from anyone just to try.

Failure to engage 3D clocks sounds like power issue or dying card that needs to be RMAed.
Unfortunately drivers didn't seem to work either. I do not have any friends with decent power supplies, nor are a lot of PC hardware stores open in my area unfortunately. That really sucks. The card is out of manufacturer warranty; it's been about 1year3months at this point.
 

Regeneration

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Find a way to borrow a power supply, or another PC to try the card in. Meanwhile, try to perform some "maintenance".

Uninstall all display drivers and then perform a cleanup with Display Driver Uninstaller (DDU) from safe mode.

Take the PC outside, open the case, and remove all the dust with air blower or hair dryer with a cold setting.

Remove the graphics card and blow some air in the x16 PCI express slot.

Carefully remove the heatsink from the graphics card and clean the fans with a toothbrush.

Clean the graphic cards with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs. Especially the GPU area and PCIe pins.

When you're done, reapply thermal paste on the GPU, remount the heatsink, plug it back in.

Download and install the latest drivers from Nvidia's website.
 
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Showing NV Inspector in unsupported version for Turing doesn't help much...
Download GPU-z and check Board Power/GPU Chip Power values under Sensors tab both when Idle and under Load.

(sidenote : 1000-th message :D)
 
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Unfortunately drivers didn't seem to work either. I do not have any friends with decent power supplies, nor are a lot of PC hardware stores open in my area unfortunately. That really sucks. The card is out of manufacturer warranty; it's been about 1year3months at this point.
I would think that most 2080ti's would have at least 2-3 years of warranty
 

Regeneration

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As far as I know, Asus ROG Strix GeForce RTX 2080 Ti OC Edition comes with 3 year warranty.

Did you mess with the VBIOS or something?
 

zeohi

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As far as I know, Asus ROG Strix GeForce RTX 2080 Ti OC Edition comes with 3 year warranty.

Did you mess with the VBIOS or something?
I was just mistaken about the warranty. It's still under warranty, yeah, it would just have been nice if I could have found a solution other than that since waiting weeks isn't ideal
 
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Download MSI afterburner and see if you can manually change the clocks.
 
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Pretty sure your card's Shunt resisitor(s) or power measuring ciruitry, are out of wack.

Q1 : Could it be flashed with a special LN2 OC vBIOS (600W power is NOT normal under idle) ?
Q2 : Did anyone (to Your knowledge), ever shunt moded it ?
Depending on true answer to second question (regardless of what you think was done), your RMA may not be viewed positively.
 

zeohi

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Pretty sure your card's Shunt resisitor(s) or power measuring ciruitry, are out of wack.

Q1 : Could it be flashed with a special LN2 OC vBIOS (600W power is NOT normal under idle) ?
Q2 : Did anyone (to Your knowledge), ever shunt moded it ?
Depending on true answer to second question (regardless of what you think was done), your RMA may not be viewed positively.
No, this card was always mine. I don't even know what terminology you're using to be quite honest, and it hasn't been tampered with / OCed / modified in any way since originally obtained
 
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If you can't RMA this card, you can only go to a repair shop.
But with those weird issues, they may not be able to help you (depending on how good they are and if they had experience with this).

It could be a bad solder joint under GPU, OR a damaged shunt resistor(s) or problem on PCB, etc.
Card simply throttles to safe value (300MHz), because something is wrong with it.
 

zeohi

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If you can't RMA this card, you can only go to a repair shop.
But with those weird issues, they may not be able to help you (depending on how good they are and if they had experience with this).

It could be a bad solder joint under GPU, OR a damaged shunt resistor(s) or problem on PCB, etc.
Card simply throttles to safe value (300MHz), because something is wrong with it.
Do you think for sure it's the card? Could it be something to do with a faulty power supply or anything like that?
 
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You can't make card draw 600W from anywhere on Idle by any normal means :

power.png

Card draws what it needs and monitors that value to make boost work, and Your card is clearly reading too much power being pulled. There are no PSU/MB issues (to my knowledge), that may be responsible.
I'm 99% sure it's a GPU fault.
 
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Memory 8x A-Data Xtreme 2000X 2GB (1868MHz CL8.9.8.24 CR2T @ 1,65V)
Video Card(s) ASUS GTX 1080 (FE)
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Case NZXT Tempest (Nanoflux/PWM fans only, some w/LEDs)
Audio Device(s) ASUS Essence ST Deluxe 7.1
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Mouse Roccat Savu
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It's not likely, but can happen.
Like any electronics : It works, until it doesn't.

Defect in manufacturing, or random stuff that happends at handling (before it get's sold), contribute to this.
 
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