Continuing with day 2... New tubing runs
I realised I didn't finish posting so I will start with a meme and continue
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Let's break out the new tubing. I was pretty sure I didn't have enough scraps from the last change over from EK Duraclear to Primochill so I got another box and good thing too as it took a couple of attempts to cut the right length for the more direct runs for the new rad. I was getting pretty tired by this point in the day and 1/4 of an inch off ment not having a satisfactory run or an uncomfortable bend.
Below you can see my new drain layout with a rotating 90 on one side so I can tuck it away nice an neatly. For comparison I put the old setup side by side below. I also got rid of the ball valve on the other drain and replace it with the newer EK drain valve so I could reuse the ball valve elsewhere.
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Let's take a look at the new rad
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So I opted to route the tubes from the pump output directly to the 2nd rad and return back to the distroplate. The tubing run was fairly simple although I wasn't fond of putting the 90 back in there but I didn't have another 45 on hand so there it is.
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Also since I had ordered some additional offsets I wanted to align the tube runs from the top rad a little better (and farther away from the motherboard I/O panel. At the time of ording I couldn't decided on black or nickel so I ordered both. Good thing as I was able to use them all in a useful way.
It took me some trial and error as I was test fitting rad and the offsets.
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The inner most offset was good and moved the tube away from the I/O panel and squared it up to the distroplate nicely.
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The outer most tube however was coming in causing the tubes to line up into a V pattern instead of parallel so I reoriented the offset so they are both pointing outward.
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Next that pesky RGB Cable. I managed not to squish it to death when putting the distroplate back in. It helped by moving it outward to the right then folding it toward the rear/side compartment. There was just enough space between the top rad and the distroplate to use a credit card to push the flat RGB cable between them up past the rad cover screws and tuck the cable at the top very nicely.
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Now lets run these rad tubes. I decided to keep the hot side temp sensor where it was before the loop enters the first rad on the top.
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Now let's use this beautiful new drain plug arrangement and pressure test the system starting with the first side of the distroblock.
Swinging the bad boy out there and hooking up the pressure tester.
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!!! Oh WTF I've got no pressure !!!! Pressure was quickly draining !!! All I could think of was at this point the new rad's fittings must have come loose when I tried to put the 90's back on. (because they were a real pita trying to tighten and I wiggled them a lot)
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Ugh. Taking out both rad to retest.
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Both rads were OK. The problem is elsewhere but where could it be?
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Stupid me I forgot to put back in a plug! Major Homer Simpson moment that cost me a lot of time but at least it wasn't a catastrophic error.
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Hooking it back up and testing both sides to be sure. Now working as expected.
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Top rad back in and pressure test it again.
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Ok prepping the motherboard
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(reached image posting quota)
... to be continued ...
Reinstalling Motherboard and GPU in and I skipped taking a lot of pictures at this point but I finished attaching all the tubing but not testing the whole system yet.
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And this finishes day 2 in the late evening.
Next up
Day 3....
continuing with Day 3....
Pressure testing. It looks good. Taking out the new cryofuel batch I mixed a week or so before and ready for some fun.
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Keen to avoid the mishaps I had with the funnel and too lazy to go get the painfully slow EK fill bottle I decided to hookup my EK res and use that for the fill.
Turns out this was a really great idea and filled my system very quickly. You can see the new EK fluid has a slightly yellow tint to it, not sure why.
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Opened the valve, gulg, gulg, gulg, in goes the fluid.
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Using my handy PSU switch to turn on the pump. (was careful to not connect the pump's PWM during this time)
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It's filled and I'm letting the pump run for a bit checking for sound and looking at the flow indicator. What I see happening is the flow indicator is running slower than normal. To which is not entirely unexpected considering I did add a new rad to the system and some 90's. I remembered I forgot to flip the orientation of the QDC's so time to drain the system and flip them around.
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Opening the valve to help drain the system enough the change the QDC's. Rebottling the new fluid for now.
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it was fast and easy.
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Since I had the QDC's ready I took a bit of a detour and decided to try out this new filter I ordered. I thought this filter would be handy for the next time I have to setup some new rads.
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It's all working and reversing the QDC's did improve the flow indicator speed. Packing some things up.
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Still have to put back in the bottom fans and the Corsair hardware. That new radiator fit just perfectly.
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First the fans. The dust filter that comes with the 011D is terrible because once you put the screws in for the bottom fans the magnetic sides of the filter are pulled a way a bit and doesn't stick to the case as well. I got some new dust filter and magnets to remedy this problem by making a custom dust filter.
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eSata plugged back in and cable management on the bottom is looking good.
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Next up Corsair cable management and having fun with a lot of zip ties.
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... to be continued ...
