ex_reven
New Member
tk have you heard of staticice.com?
if not, search fatality there
if not, search fatality there
-
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Blow in hole useful for cases?
- Thread starter tkpenalty
- Start date
Yeah I have, should I buy the Evercool FOX-1 to position under my X1950PRO (with acceleroX2)? I think this will help since the air gets trapped. How many slots away should I postition the Evercool FOX-1 GPU?
ex_reven
New Member
you couldnt find it there? or just not a decent price?
Um I just want the fan, not the copper heatsink.
ex_reven
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| System Name | NEW |
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Dont drool on my case!!! 
ex_reven
New Member
Dont drool on my case!!!
ummm random?
Dont drool on my case!!!
Don't hijack my thread! Post that in the case gallery... geez, I want help, not some picture of your case. Whats worse is that the fact that the case looks ugly tbh.
ex_reven
New Member
agreed....it looks like a hunk of plastic with a metal roof for a helicopter to land on.
and with that kind of setup, couldnt you have afforded a much better case?
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You clearly dont know nothing about car performance, and its not very clever to compare an induction system with airflow in a PC case. LOL
If you LIKE CARS, then try thinking about how the "hot/cold" air on your dashboard works, and how the vents that blow work. The analogy is much better, and you might be able to get your facts right!
Stay away from comments about N/A, superchargers, turbos, or engine management... other than it makes the car go "vroom"... or your comments will be ridiculed 
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FYI, Northwood 2.8 overclock to 3.0, Idle
That top plate is probably to cover his clumsy dremel work.
You clearly dont know nothing about car performance, and its not very clever to compare an induction system with airflow in a PC case. LOL
If you LIKE CARS, then try thinking about how the "hot/cold" air on your dashboard works, and how the vents that blow work. The analogy is much better, and you might be able to get your facts right!
LOL Cars don't run on air cooling these days anyway, only the radiator does. You can compare a car to a water cooling system but not air cooling. Unless you are talking about porches or formula 1s. I was going to comment but I left it for someone else....
Carcemony how old are you? There aren't any intakes on a car LOL, just the front grille for looks and the radiator. There are ports but they are for fuel injection.
Carcemony, TURBOs just increase the power by increasing the amount of oxygen pumped into the engine so the fuel is more volatile when compressed, using the exaust pressure to spin the turbine, while the Supercharger uses engine's RPMs.
Back on topic guys.... I
ROTARIES LOL!Would a blower work better than free airflow for the GPU?
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Top Tips updated for comments above:
1./ Dont worry about SUCKING air into the case. Let it draw in (so long as you have sufficient openings near the bottom of the case) - If you have a duct system... then a push and a suck system IS better... but only within the duct. It wont reduce ambient temperatures of the mb or other components
2./ BLOW air OUT of the case near the top. A good PSU fan is important... and an exit fan near the CPU is important
3./ An exit fan near the CPU, plus a silent CPU fan IS MORE EFFECTIVE than NO exit fan, but a high performance fan on the CPU - this comment is added for other readers who might not be aware of this fact and are buying ever bigger and faster CPU coolers but haven't yet installed a case exit fan near the CPU... a common oversight
4./ Remember you want to make ambient temperatures (within the case) as low as possible. There is no point having super large coolers on the GPU and the CPU if the hot air is stuck in the case
5./ I have found that standing a case upright (rather then lying in desktop) is much more effective - its amazing how many PC's are "desktop" format... or indeed shuttle format. One way of instantly improving cooling performance is to swap the case for an upright case
6./ Take out your m/b. Get a drill with a (8mm or 10 mm) metal bit. Drill 100 holes in the BOTTOM of the case... where no one sees them... but it allows air to draw in at the bottom, and get blown out the top by PSU or CPU exit fan. Also put "feet" onto case, so case is at least 2cm off the floor/carpet. - I recommend drilling because in the end it is quicker and cheaper and retains more structural integrity than dremeling out a big hole. The 10mm holes are big enough to allow air to draw in easily, but small enough to stop fingers getting in. An alternative is to dremel a big hole, and then screw in place a metal mesh. What is important to remember is that the airflow TO the underside of the case where this (these) new holes are needs to be clear. Hence raise the case a few cm with "tall feet".
7./ A duct system is usually very effective (like you get on some dual slot GPU coolers), but then making a duct system is a pain in the arse... and it only cools the items within the duct
8./ There is no point having fans creating lots of turbulance WITHIN the case... just get the hot air out asap... and let cool air replace the ejected hot air
9./ Sometimes hotspots still exist... like the HDDs. Try to put as much space between HDDs as possible (don't sandwich). If you have a backup drive in the case, put it on power save mode... so that it spins down when not used
p.s. all my suggests are to create an effective balance of cooling vs. silence. There are more "brutal" cooling methods, but they add more noise disproportionately and are not as effective in a "cooling factor/number of fans" ratio. See my post above with the screenshot of temps. My case is very quiet and cool. Unfortunately, I DO HAVE a hotspot on the primary HDD. But there is not much I can do about it. I'm out of space and the HDD is sandwiched.
1./ Dont worry about SUCKING air into the case. Let it draw in (so long as you have sufficient openings near the bottom of the case) - If you have a duct system... then a push and a suck system IS better... but only within the duct. It wont reduce ambient temperatures of the mb or other components
2./ BLOW air OUT of the case near the top. A good PSU fan is important... and an exit fan near the CPU is important
3./ An exit fan near the CPU, plus a silent CPU fan IS MORE EFFECTIVE than NO exit fan, but a high performance fan on the CPU - this comment is added for other readers who might not be aware of this fact and are buying ever bigger and faster CPU coolers but haven't yet installed a case exit fan near the CPU... a common oversight
4./ Remember you want to make ambient temperatures (within the case) as low as possible. There is no point having super large coolers on the GPU and the CPU if the hot air is stuck in the case
5./ I have found that standing a case upright (rather then lying in desktop) is much more effective - its amazing how many PC's are "desktop" format... or indeed shuttle format. One way of instantly improving cooling performance is to swap the case for an upright case
6./ Take out your m/b. Get a drill with a (8mm or 10 mm) metal bit. Drill 100 holes in the BOTTOM of the case... where no one sees them... but it allows air to draw in at the bottom, and get blown out the top by PSU or CPU exit fan. Also put "feet" onto case, so case is at least 2cm off the floor/carpet. - I recommend drilling because in the end it is quicker and cheaper and retains more structural integrity than dremeling out a big hole. The 10mm holes are big enough to allow air to draw in easily, but small enough to stop fingers getting in. An alternative is to dremel a big hole, and then screw in place a metal mesh. What is important to remember is that the airflow TO the underside of the case where this (these) new holes are needs to be clear. Hence raise the case a few cm with "tall feet".
7./ A duct system is usually very effective (like you get on some dual slot GPU coolers), but then making a duct system is a pain in the arse... and it only cools the items within the duct
8./ There is no point having fans creating lots of turbulance WITHIN the case... just get the hot air out asap... and let cool air replace the ejected hot air
9./ Sometimes hotspots still exist... like the HDDs. Try to put as much space between HDDs as possible (don't sandwich). If you have a backup drive in the case, put it on power save mode... so that it spins down when not used
p.s. all my suggests are to create an effective balance of cooling vs. silence. There are more "brutal" cooling methods, but they add more noise disproportionately and are not as effective in a "cooling factor/number of fans" ratio. See my post above with the screenshot of temps. My case is very quiet and cool. Unfortunately, I DO HAVE a hotspot on the primary HDD. But there is not much I can do about it. I'm out of space and the HDD is sandwiched.
Last edited:
FYI, Northwood 2.8 overclock to 3.0, Idle
>_> FYI, Northwood sensors are extremely inacurrate.
Carcenomy
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Well what do YOU call the intake manifold, intake plenum, throttle body, intake hose and airbox? Oh... it's the INTAKE SYSTEM. Rotary, aircooled, watercooled, V8, four-pot... no difference, they all have an intake system of some kind.
TK, maybe it's time to upgrade from the 7700?
TK, maybe it's time to upgrade from the 7700?
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Nah, they are perfectly accurate.
(Yes they show the AMBIENT TEMP NOT THE DIE TEMP
)SO the core is on fire basically
Learn a bit more about cars... Do you even know what a wankel is? Let alone what the radiator does? Cars these days don't have "Intake manifolds" to cool the engine, games have that to sound cool
. Four-pot... wtf is that? Air cooled cars are RARE, while water cooled are the standard type... All that stuff does not relate together you know? Rotary is a ENGINE type, Four port (fuel ports?) Fuel injection ports, V8 = DOHC with 4 cylinders per cam. V4 = SOHC with 4 cylinders per cam (single cam). V12 = DOHC with 6 Cylinders per cam. Air cooling is a thing of the past as it uses fans all over the car to pump hot air out... these cars are rare as it is inneficient and uses a lot of petrol. Water cooling is easier and uses less energy as there is only one fan required; the radiator fan. A rotary engine is a different kind of engine, all because I mentioned it it doesn't mean you have to add it to your vocabulary, they are petrol guzzlers and are simple, produce crazy amounts of torque for their size (they are tiny). The newer revision, renesis (made by mazda, in the RX8), is petrol efficient and still powerful. Please don't think you are smart because you know a few words. It just makes people like me wanting to correct you.
In the current configuration NO... 9500AT Seems too expensive and the 9700, obviously NO. Have a thought about it... it doesnt even blow air on the RAM, PVMs, NB, mofsets, I wouldn't use it becasue I don't have an active cooling solution anyway for the NB(its too noisy as well). If I had a P965 I would have chosen the CNPS7700 but I have a 975X Chipset motherboard.
Trust me... those temps are way off.. I have a 3.2 Northwood and I know how much heat it pumps out; a bit less than core 2 duo.
Carcenomy
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| System Name | Project T - the computer I've never finished! |
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| Memory | 4GB Corsair XMS2 Pro DDR2-800 |
| Video Card(s) | Gigabyte GTS250 OC'd 1GB w/ stock Zalman VF1050 x2 in SLI |
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| Benchmark Scores | Hasn't been benched. |
TK... you're not entirely understanding me here.
On an engine, you have an intake system. This comprises of the intake manifold, this can either be a traditional one with a carburettor installed, or an intake plenum with injectors, plus the intake tubing and air filter system. Yes, yes I do know what a Wankel is, I'm a Mazda enthusiast and do know that NSU built rotary powered cars far earlier in the piece. In any intake system, it needs to be designed to flow well, especially at high RPM. If it doesn't, you starve the engine of the precious air it needs to make a complete mixture. That's why many enthusiasts run a CAI setup with a pod filter of some description and more thorough guys go for a port/polish of the intake and exhaust ports on the engine's head.
9500ATs work good, that's what I run. Air circulates through the fins in a radial motion and cool the MOSFETs and such etc really well. Who's temps are off, btw?
On an engine, you have an intake system. This comprises of the intake manifold, this can either be a traditional one with a carburettor installed, or an intake plenum with injectors, plus the intake tubing and air filter system. Yes, yes I do know what a Wankel is, I'm a Mazda enthusiast and do know that NSU built rotary powered cars far earlier in the piece. In any intake system, it needs to be designed to flow well, especially at high RPM. If it doesn't, you starve the engine of the precious air it needs to make a complete mixture. That's why many enthusiasts run a CAI setup with a pod filter of some description and more thorough guys go for a port/polish of the intake and exhaust ports on the engine's head.
9500ATs work good, that's what I run. Air circulates through the fins in a radial motion and cool the MOSFETs and such etc really well. Who's temps are off, btw?