Bought new speakers but chirping noise is back.

[nomdeplume]

I've read "optical is trash" so I'm even more confused now. I'd like to believe a sound card can properly clock/sync the audio signals before they reach the output port.

Which is getting further from directly resolving the issue you are having, no?

We've isolated the issue in two highly common places. Powered speakers that pick up unwanted signals and a mobo that produces or collects these type of signals. The speakers on your desk may not work as desired no matter what you do. Second or third or tenth RMA pair might. This is widely referred to as passing QC on to the customer.

The only change you made was installing these speakers. Don't rack your brain too hard deciding how many changes need to be involved to uncreate this issue.

 

[Zareek]

Is anyone else confused that the chassis audio is cleaner than the motherboard audio? Makes no sense to me and suggests there’s nothing wrong with the onboard audio. Shouldn’t any interference affecting the motherboard only get worse when running through the chassis IO?

I agree, and then the added description of the front port cabling has me wondering. Maybe the audio out jack on the motherboard is somehow bad. My only other conclusion is something with audio drivers, but I would assume if the driver was causing the problem it would be on the front panel connector as well. This seems to be one of those odd PC issues that can't always be explained. I think we've all seen something at one time or another that doesn't add up. I think it happens less now than it did with older PCs. Just plain quirkiness...

 

[pavle]

OP, you're hearing CPU noise from the motherboard interference, it was common knowledge with the older mainboards, laughable that it still occurs with ricer ones.
Anyhow, best and quickest solution would be to buy a sound card, no more noise (you can first try used one too, it'll work in win10). I tried my CT Audigy 2 with win10 and it works just fine after a few specifics (driver: SBA5_PCDRV_L11_3_01_0056B\Audio\DriversWin10\wdm\wdma_emu.inf).

 

[Operandi]

While there's some truth to that, in context of audio reproduction and the transmission of digital data through a fiber-optic connection, the variances are so small as render them completely irrelevant. We are talking about variances measured in billionths of a second at best, and hundred millionths of a second at worst, neither of which is going to render ANYTHING that the human ear/perception can distinguish. The arguments that have raged elsewhere on the interwebs are as silly and misguided as they are without merit.

I don't want to turn this into a thing cause its not what the thread is about but TOSLINK from a PC should be avoided. The clocks in a PC are insanely inaccurate for the purposes of digital audio, to the extent a $40 DVD player for 2001 has a better optical output than your average $1,000 PC. The clocking is one of the most important aspects in the digital to analog conversion and its exactly in a realtime audio stream where the timing of the data is critical and very relevant.

For anyone that cares that wants further reading this USB vs SPDIF article is pretty concise.

It's not trash. If you want to use TOS-link, use it and enjoy the excellent quality it delivers. Full stop.

Maybe they aren't all trash but speaking generally TOSLINK from a PC is trash. Maybe yours is better than average or maybe you don't notice the problems if they are present but its still an inferior interface compared to USB and should not be recommended to anyone that cares about quality.

 

[lexluthermiester]

I don't want to turn this into a thing cause its not what the thread is about but TOSLINK from a PC. The clocks in a PC are insanely inacture for the purposes of digital audio, a $40 DVD player for 2001 has a better optical output than your average $1,000 PC. It is objectively bad and its exactly in a realtime audio stream where the timing of the data is critical and very relevant.

Maybe they aren't all trash but speaking generally TOSLINK from a PC is trash. Maybe yours is better than average or maybe you don't notice the problems if they are present but its still an inferior interface compared to USB and should not be recommended to anyone that cares about quality.

Yeah, let's not get into this debate. It been done to death and neither of us is going to change each other's mind.

 

[caroline!]

I don't want to turn this into a thing cause its not what the thread is about but TOSLINK from a PC. The clocks in a PC are insanely inacture for the purposes of digital audio, a $40 DVD player for 2001 has a better optical output than your average $1,000 PC. It is objectively bad and its exactly in a realtime audio stream where the timing of the data is critical and very relevant.

Maybe they aren't all trash but speaking generally TOSLINK from a PC is trash. Maybe yours is better than average or maybe you don't notice the problems if they are present but its still an inferior interface compared to USB and should not be recommended to anyone that cares about quality.

What about analogue from the sound card? still bad?

In any case I'll have to try both because I've ordered the card already, I went for the Sound Blaster ^^

 

[Operandi]

What about analogue from the sound card? still bad?

In any case I'll have to try both because I've ordered the card already, I went for the Sound Blaster ^^

No, I'm sure the analog from the SB is good. Probably better than the DAC built into the speakers but who knows, try both.

 

[lexluthermiester]

went for the Sound Blaster ^^

Which one?

No, I'm sure the analog from the SB is good.

I am. Creative has always done proper engineering on their cards.

 

[Kapone33]

While I personally prefer Creative cards, Asus makes a few very good models too;

Xonar AE

Amazon.com

$80

Xonar SE

Amazon.com

$40

I actually bought a Xonar Ae card and though it does sound clean it is not nearly as loud as the 1220. The AE still uses the older Realtek 892 codec. Unless they have updated them since I bought one about 6 months ago.

 

[caroline!]

Which one?


I am. Creative has always done proper engineering on their cards.

I went for the Z SE for the price.

 

[lexluthermiester]

I went for the Z SE for the price.

Nice! That's a good card!

 

[Zareek]

I don't want to turn this into a thing cause its not what the thread is about but TOSLINK from a PC should be avoided. The clocks in a PC are insanely inaccurate for the purposes of digital audio, to the extent a $40 DVD player for 2001 has a better optical output than your average $1,000 PC. The clocking is one of the most important aspects in the digital to analog conversion and its exactly in a realtime audio stream where the timing of the data is critical and very relevant.

For anyone that cares that wants further reading this USB vs SPDIF article is pretty concise.

Maybe they aren't all trash but speaking generally TOSLINK from a PC is trash. Maybe yours is better than average or maybe you don't notice the problems if they are present but its still an inferior interface compared to USB and should not be recommended to anyone that cares about quality.

I know this thread isn't about this, but how about USB to TOSLINK? How does that stack up?

 

[lexluthermiester]

I know this thread isn't about this, but how about USB to TOSLINK? How does that stack up?

If the engineering on the adapter is done properly, it would be fine.

 

[Mister300]

Posits nothing but a culture of inability to resist inflating negative reporting across social media. When 900 out of 1000 reviews tear the product and aftersale support apart or a class lawsuit restricts ongoing sale...

Every [pause] EVERY manufactured speaker of this class or below have this issue. Unshielded cables are responsible a majority of the time. More often the electronics as a whole just prove susceptible to whatever is floating around in that particular environment.

It is highly unpredictable. You could pull six brand new speakers of the same or different make and model out and get different results in every home you attempt this in. Outright return is always a better option than being forced into a chain of RMA failures. After making sure correcting the issue is not the easier of the two options.

This is why we run XLR balanced interconnects.

 

[nomdeplume]

This is why we run XLR balanced interconnects.

You.

OP doesn't have even the least amount of interest outside of how to make plugging in a 3.5mm cable to their computer work.

 

[Operandi]

I know this thread isn't about this, but how about USB to TOSLINK? How does that stack up?

It adds complication but it should be ok. You'll get the async advantage of via USB and then the rest is just dependent on how good the adapter is. Its not hard to get right its just that PCs digital outputs are typically pretty awful at it. Still probably don't want to get the absolute cheapest one you can find, I see SMSL make one so thats probably a good way to go.

I'm guessing you are trying to connect to a AVR or something?

 

[Zareek]

No, not that fancy, I used to do that but it's too much of a hassle. I just have a Logitech Z625 2.1 setup. It's way better than the built-in monitor speakers. I used to connect it to my MB's optical output connector. When I rearranged my office a month or two ago, I disconnected them. I plan to start using them again at some point. Last time I bought a new board, I actually chose one model over another because it had the optical out. I find I get less pops, buzzing, humming and other input inference when I use the optical connection. I've been contemplating a Sound Blaster X4 but haven't pulled the trigger yet. In the past, I've had both amazing and awful experiences with Creative products.

 

[caroline!]

Nice! That's a good card!

It'll take a while so meanwhile I can tidy up my desk a bit, clean my PC and find a place for the huge sub.

I know this thread isn't about this, but how about USB to TOSLINK? How does that stack up?

If with a DAC I guess there wouldn't be any issues, sound goes thru USB, DAC clocks the signals and they go thru TOSLINK to the speakers? but it's overly complicated, I'd rather use the sound card and the filtered analogue outputs as usual.

You.

OP doesn't have even the least amount of interest outside of how to make plugging in a 3.5mm cable to their computer work.

Oh the interest is there, but the money isn't haha

I'm sure the world of audio is far more complex than just "this cable goes here". I wanted these speakers to add some music to my otherwise silent dancing workout.

 

[Ferather]

If you are using TOSLink, the DAC is in the receiver, the output from PC is pure digital, TOSLink is also immune to EMI.

 

[Operandi]

No, not that fancy, I used to do that but it's too much of a hassle. I just have a Logitech Z625 2.1 setup. It's way better than the built-in monitor speakers. I used to connect it to my MB's optical output connector. When I rearranged my office a month or two ago, I disconnected them. I plan to start using them again at some point. Last time I bought a new board, I actually chose one model over another because it had the optical out. I find I get less pops, buzzing, humming and other input inference when I use the optical connection. I've been contemplating a Sound Blaster X4 but haven't pulled the trigger yet. In the past, I've had both amazing and awful experiences with Creative products.

Then whatever works is fine. You are not going to hear any of the problems with optical out on speakers like that.

 

[Chrispy_]

There's a lot of good advice in this thread but my "noisy audio gear" test is foolproof, I use it all the time and it's dead simple.

1) Rule out the power circuit by running the kit off a UPS disconnected from the mains with nothing else plugged in.
2) Rule out the source by using an isolated device (phone or ipod in flight mode works great).
3) If you still get interference, move to a different location away from any radio devices and keep the input signal cable away from power cables.

If it's not the power circuit, the audio circuit, or the location then your hardware's f*cked.

 

[caroline!]

Card is here.

Installed it and there's 0% noise using optical or 3.5mm jack

 

[Ferather]

Lovely.

Edit: On a side note, if you are looking at onboard specifically, I'd go with proper Asus designs, they make their own discreet sound cards.
I have a Realtek S1220-A, Asus edition with Crystal sound 3 hardware DSP and proper parts (Jap capacitors, EMI shield).

 

[SomeOne99h]

Card is here.

Installed it and there's 0% noise using optical or 3.5mm jack

Now update the specs and let the world knows

 

[caroline!]

Now update the specs and let the world knows

I guess it counts as Audio Device(s) so yup

filled keyboard and software as well ^^

edit: