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Change Voltage in Windows not in Bios

Well I think you can change that stuff in the ASUS MB Utility..and that would require a restart...I may be wrong, I never loaded it when I installed my P5B Dlx. Why do you not want to change voltage in bios? It's easy to do, and the best way to do it.
 
Well I think you can change that stuff in the ASUS MB Utility..and that would require a restart...I may be wrong, I never loaded it when I installed my P5B Dlx. Why do you not want to change voltage in bios? It's easy to do, and the best way to do it.

bios is probably best way. if you're against bios, try rmclock, but i don't know if you can raise it, all i know is it can undervolt.
 
Bios is ok but with clockeg i can change FSB in windows on the fly as i want.

But the truble is if i lover the FSB the temperature stays the same beacose i did not lower the voltage. So i did nothing. If i have too little voltage i can not proper OC when i want.

With speedfan i can change speed of ventilators with one click. So i can use profiles for diferent use.

But if i cant change the voltage i realy do nothing.

Asus software does nothing. Is realy lame and wants too reboot on everything. :rolleyes:

I use computer a lot but if i speend 3 hours on internet i dont need 3000 mhz but as low at is gets. When i play a game i need 3000 mhz.

Rebooting is not realy a option. :cool:

I will try rmclock to see what it does.
 
Well, turn on C1E and Speedstep so that your system downclocks your cpu when not under loads..that why when viewing web pages your speed is at least somewhat reduced. If you have decent cooling, you should have no issues running full speed OC. Even at OC speeds, if you're not using your 3.0ghz speeds, your CPU will be fine.

Using c1e and I forget the other ones that utilize your voltage, fsb and cpu speed to keep temps down can solve your problem. But if you want to take the time to change all of your settings everytime you play a game or view a web page, more power to you, I just don't see why you'd need to.

What's your system specs?
 
Asus P5B-E Plus
C2D E4300
1GB ram
X.V. 6600 GT Pci-e

Speed strap is ok but the trouble is i wolud like to have control over the voltage of CPU and RAM in windows for testing isues and easy operetion that comes with it with combination of clockgen for example.

I use speed strap. But i am yust not hapy if i lower the frequency but the voltage stays the same.

For example i had cheap socket A Gigabyte mobo before and Easytune could do all. Change FSB voltages for CPU an RAM...

Soo i do not understand why asus on such a great mobo did not do more on software.

It evan complicates with ai booster thet you must not have OC system if u would like to use all gear for example.

Realy hope that utility for ram and cpu voltage exist for my mobo. :confused:
 
Well the need for what you request just isn't there anymore. It's more built in and wanted by most of us to be disabled, which is why we have options to disable it.

What kind of testing issues do you mean? OC? Stability? Temperatures?

Why do you need a lower frequency? It makes no sense if your PC runs cool and stable. It'd be better to stay at one setting than to switch all of the time just because you want to lower your settings when viewing documents etc... I'd say set your overclock and leave it alone.

Your system is decent, what type of memory? What's its ratings (ddr2 800 for example), timings, voltage, etc...

I disable speedstep, c1e and all of that because I like to know that I'm running full speed all of the time, so when I need it, I don't have to waste my time modifying it in order to do what I wanted to do. Seems in-efficient. And with modern pc's, there's really no reasoning to want to do what you are requesting. And the way the P5B series is, you have to restart after voltage changes...and I'm pretty sure that's how the current generations of 965/975 boards are...unless you use intel's technology to auto change. Speedstep and C1E will lower voltages, I've used it, and watched it with Everest/CPU-Z to verify, but I don't like my settings jumping all over the place...when overclocking it can lead to instability.

Plus Sloman, you gotta remember, this isn't old socket-A technology, there's a reason they have everything designed the way it is now, and will improve upon this in the future. You shouldn't need to modify further than the manufacturer intended you to.

If you can, find a program that allows you to set your cpu multiplier (if possible), and lower that. But still I don't see why you want to...just makes no sense to me, and I do not intend on offending you, I just still don't understand what your obsession with lowering your values is.

I guess if you really want lower settings, then run stock speeds and be done with it, set your bios to default and go with that.

Are you having overheating issues? What's your idle/load cpu temps? If that's your problem, spend a few bucks and get an Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 7 and install it, I use one and it keeps my temps lower at my OC speeds than the stock cooler at stock speeds.
 
I understand what u saying but for example for emule downloading if i have a profile that i nearly hear computer that is on over night or when i use mesenger? Why have 3000 mhz over night for emule downloading or all day long for talk on messenger? Temp is araund 40 in idle in silent mode but why dont have 20 or 24?

But when i play game (raley) or do profesional work with 3d programs is it beter to reboot or push on 3 buttons in windows and off we go?

I sometimes write code all day long in notepad and then in the evening let the computer do its yob for a few hours.

And why not write at 1000 mhz or lover with 20 celsium. Why have 3000 mhz 40 degres all day long and more noise from computer?

I tested it to find max OC on stock (that far i was wiling to goo with stock cooler and voltage 1.45 V in bios).

I OC to 3540 MHZ for super pi test 16.7 s.

DDR2 modules are low cost 800 Mhz 5 5 5 15 (1.8 V) but works on (1.9 V) 4 4 4 12 on 400 (800) Mhz.

Power suplay is 400 W LC.

Graphic card is rearly in use cose i dont play a lot of games. And software i use dont need superb graphic.

Its ok if there isnt any software for voltage regulation in windows. But if it would be it wolud be nice to try it.

For example i would definetly go as low as posible with voltage and noise and frequency when i use emule, notepad, msn... all day long.

Then 3 buttons and off we go on 3000 mhz.

Evan if i wouldn do that all the time it would be nice to try it.
 
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And anopther thing that bothers me.

If i only oc for 1 FSB all of the tools asus provided are usles beacose they wont work in OC mode.
 
I understand what u saying but for example for emule downloading if i have a profile that i nearly hear computer that is on over night or when i use mesenger? Why have 3000 mhz over night for emule downloading or all day long for talk on messenger? Temp is araund 40 in idle in silent mode but why dont have 20 or 24?
But when i play game (raley) or do profesional work with 3d programs is it beter to reboot or push on 3 buttons in windows and off we go?
I sometimes write code all day long in notepad and then in the evening let the computer do its yob for a few hours.
And why not write at 1000 mhz or lover with 20 celsium. Why have 3000 mhz 40 degres all day long and more noise from computer?
I tested it to find max OC on stock (that far i was wiling to goo with stock cooler and voltage 1.45 V in bios).
I OC to 3540 MHZ for super pi test 16.7 s.
DDR2 modules are low cost 800 Mhz 5 5 5 15 (1.8 V) but works on (1.9 V) 4 4 4 12 on 400 (800) Mhz.
Power suplay is 400 W LC.
Graphic card is rearly in use cose i dont play a lot of games. And software i use dont need superb graphic.
Its ok if there isnt any software for voltage regulation in windows. But if it would be it wolud be nice to try it.
For example i would definetly go as low as posible with voltage and noise and frequency when i use emule, notepad, msn... all day long.
Then 3 buttons and off we go on 3000 mhz.
Evan if i wouldn do that all the time it would be nice to try it.

Okay, that makes more sense.... I recommend you invest in a better cooling solution for starters. The one I stated earlier works great for me, and running at 50% is quiet, yet still efficient, and there are many others that are even better and quieter, but for a price...that is the route I recommend for you. Get quieter, better performing case fans, and a better CPU cooler, then run at full speed with quieter fans and better cooling efficiency, then who cares if you're running full speed because it's cool and quiet! Then you can do your coding and such, and close it out, and open your game and not have to worry about pushing buttons, restarting, changing settings, etc... Sure it will cost money to do this, but changing case fans is easy, and if you have room for more fans, put them in, and set your fan speed in bios to optimized/silent to still get decent air flow without the noise. I recommend Spider Fans (Xoxide.com has em), their noise to cfm ratio is quite good, and the price isn't too painful, and they come with filters if you use em for intake is a good idea to help keep dust out! Also, I use Performance mode for my AC Freezer Pro 7, it'll go from 1500rpm's at idle to full bore 3000rpm's when my CPU hits 50..and then you can hear it, but even in the upper 40's at 2600 rpm's it's not that loud. Then if you want to push your OC further (well depends on how far your memory will let you go at a 1:1 ratio, you would have to increase voltage), turn fans on full blast and see how far you can get!

Or go with water cooling if you have money burning a hole in your pocket...personally even if I did, I'd still stick with air cooling. But there are plenty of silent cooling sources. If you run lower OC or stock clocks, get fanless heatsinks and take the silent route!

I hope I've been of some help dude, good luck to ya!
 
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