Computer shut off. Need help

[Murtagh1812]

@Murtagh1812 - this is why you and everyone else really should be viewing and reporting your temps in Celsius and not Fahrenheit. Even if you live in a part of the world that typically uses Fahrenheit (as we do here in the US), the computer globally industry uses Celsius and so that is what we are used to seeing. 88°C at idle would impossible, unless there was something seriously wrong.

Because everything inside your computer case depends on good, clean stable power, I recommend you beg, borrow or steal a known good PSU and swap that in to see what happens. You need to verify power first - especially before plopping down money for something else.

Power is verified. Getting constant 12v. Said in an earlier post

Is there a reason you have one fan upside down on the top of the case?

Because I have 6 fans in this case. Noticed the back one was working harder than the rest and a lot of hot air was sitting in the case previously

Also it appears that PSU is mounted wrongly - fan is up, should be down, sucking in cold air from the surroundings, not interfere with case flow; still not a cause for instability though...
Any chips on mainboard that due to age of unleaded (brittle) solder may loose connection, because I have an old Phenom mainboard + CPU that's doing that (bad connection).

I have carpets and shaggy one at that so it wouldn’t really pull that much air especially since the carpet sits up against the bottom of the tower. And this mobo is less than a month old. I bought it after I bought the psu

sorry if i miss something, but have you tried resetting your bios and using only one ram?
just to check

I have not. I can do that.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Power is verified. Getting constant 12v. Said in an earlier post

Where did you say that?

If you mean where you looked at a sensor and saw 12.456V, that does NOT verify your power is good. It just means your +12VDC was present at that point in time and that load. It says nothing about the required +5VDC or the required +3.3VDC. Nor does any software monitoring program verify proper ripple suppression.

To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under a variety of realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies that affect computer stability. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or a dedicated power supply “analyzer” - sophisticated (and expensive!) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronics repair facilities.

Since it is unlikely you are a qualified electronics technician, trained or equipped to properly can conclusively test your PSU, the only way you can verify you are providing good, clean, stable power is for you to swap in a known good PSU.

 

[milewski1015]

Where did you say that?

If you mean where you looked at a sensor and saw 12.456V, that does NOT verify your power is good. It just means your +12VDC was present at that point in time and that load. It says nothing about the required +5VDC or the required +3.3VDC. Nor does any software monitoring program verify proper ripple suppression.

To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under a variety of realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies that affect computer stability. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or a dedicated power supply “analyzer” - sophisticated (and expensive!) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronics repair facilities.

Since it is unlikely you are a qualified electronics technician, trained or equipped to properly can conclusively test your PSU, the only way you can verify you are providing good, clean, stable power is for you to swap in a known good PSU.

Thinking this is OP's PSU: https://www.gamemaxpc.com/productkkk/showproduct.php?id=249
Good Amazon reviews or not, it sketches me out for sure.

 

[Murtagh1812]

Thinking this is OP's PSU: https://www.gamemaxpc.com/productkkk/showproduct.php?id=249
Good Amazon reviews or not, it sketches me out for sure.

Why does it sketch you out? Just curious.

 

[milewski1015]

Why does it sketch you out? Just curious.

Because aside from a couple mentions of the brand from r/buildapc reddit posts or posts here on TPU, it's generally unheard of. I've never seen any reputable source review it (although to be fair I haven't really gone out of my way to look for reviews), and without someone that I trust telling me it's of good quality, I'm skeptical of its reliability. Think of it as a "guilty until proven innocent" mentality. Can you confirm that the model I linked is the one you have?

Edit: Upon a quick search, the Gamemax GM line is listed under Tier D on the LTT Forums PSU Tier List. That's not to say that that's an end-all be-all source, but I generally trust it. Tier D is listed as "Recommended only for very cheap, iGPU systems"

 

[Bill_Bright]

Why does it sketch you out? Just curious.

It did me too for the same reasons milewski1050 mentions. It is a totally unfamiliar (to me) brand. And again, since everything inside the computer case depends on good, clean, stable power, having a quality supply is important.

 

[Murtagh1812]

So to all here. As I was looking over my mobo and re-seating I found this

Right beside the capacitor I believe that’s a burnt chip. I’ll try to get a better quality pic. But my question is why would it only be doing it with Minecraft? Liek why no other games?? Does Minecraft have some weird ass code that makes it use more cpu power or something?? Idk.

Yeah it looks burnt.

 

[theonek]

it's a power phase from vrm which supplies power to cpu and it is burnt. Wonder how this mobo still works without a whole power phase to cpu….

 

[Bill_Bright]

Yeah, that doesn't look good. Is the motherboard still under warranty?

 

[Murtagh1812]

No the mobo isn’t under warranty. It’s the only part I didn’t buy brand new. I bought it from a pc shop used and they looked it over before I bought it and so did I. I remember it didn’t have anything like that on there. I have a old mobo for this i5 that I did buy brand new and I never had a problem w it. The only reason I got this one was for more ram and an extra fan connection for the 6 fan. But I’ll go and switch out the mobo and see if that fixes the issue.

on another question,since on the other mobo I only have one cpu fan slot and one system fan slot,( I have fan splitters for the Amt offans I have, would I be able to connect a fan splitter onto a fan splitter? Sounds odd but I have 6 fans and only a 4 way splitter. I can take 2 fans off bc I don’t really feel like they’re necessary. But just curious.

 

[pavle]

Motherboard fan connectors aren't to be used for multiple fans, they aren't rated for so much current.
Just connect the fans to 5V or between 5 (="-") and 12 (="+") to simulate 7V, yeah I know - you'd have to make your own connections, but they'll be pretty silent and with no risk of overloading that board fan supply.

 

[Bill_Bright]

If you connect one splitter to another splitter, I would not be worried about excessive heat or fire, if that is your worry. But you are going to end up with voltages that may not even get the fans spinning. It would be best to come off a separate power cable from your PSU.

 

[Murtagh1812]

it's a power phase from vrm which supplies power to cpu and it is burnt. Wonder how this mobo still works without a whole power phase to cpu….

What would be the cause of that? Just a bad mobo??

 

[Bill_Bright]

What would be the cause of that? Just a bad mobo??

No way to tell at this point. It could have been another component in the circuit that shorted and tried to pull too much current through that burnt device, or that burnt device could have been faulty on its own and just now decided it could tolerate it no longer.

 

[Murtagh1812]

So I replaced my mobo with the og one I had bought before. I’m not having cpu fluctuations anymore it’s sitting between 4360mhz and 4390 MHz for all cores.

Alright so I was able to play fine. Had some weird chunk loading but I think it was that world. But thank you for everyone’s help. I really feel like everyone was super helpful.

 

[milewski1015]

Glad things seem to have improved. Sorry to hear about the motherboard. I'm not sure what the OG motherboard you have is, but consider looking at a Z370 board to fully take advantage of that 9600k - seems silly to have spent money on an overclockable CPU and then not be able to take advantage of it because you got a B-series motherboard. Might also look into another PSU too. Could've been a motherboard or PSU issue that caused your burnt mosfet

 

[Bill_Bright]

Glad you got it sorted out and thanks for posting your followup.

 

[Caring1]

.....consider looking at a Z370 board to fully take advantage of that 9600k - seems silly to have spent money on an overclockable CPU and then not be able to take advantage of it ....

Z390 has native support for 9th Gen CPUs, Z370 will run them only after a Bios update.

 

[djisas]

Been there before, on old pentium 4 system, it killed ram's, it killed the onboard audio, it killed a tv capture card, it killed a second board and the third never worked properly, it shut the pc down if i was using hyper threading.
A fucking eurotech silent 460W, that shit was allover tech magazines so i though it was great and it was a complete POS that made me suffer for to long before figuring out by checking voltages fluctuating more than 20%. Bought a Seasonic S12 600W, the dream...

It might very well been your psu killing the mobo, get rid of the thing and spend a little on a named one at least...