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CoolerMaster MasterGel Maker VS Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

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Are there any reviews that directly compare these two under really harsh conditions? They both seem excellent, but would prefer the best of the best since I'm planning on buying one syringe of Conductonaut for really top end cooling and one non-conductive top thermal paste for more risky components where liquid metal isn't an option. But can't decide whether I should go with MasterGel maker or Kryonaut. Couldn't find any direct tests either :(
 
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I have kryonaut. Comparing to even Noctua nt-h1 kryonaut is better. Like 2~3C better during load. I say go with kryonaut. You will not be disappointed.
 
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Numbers man. It's all about the numbers.

Cooler Master MasterGel Maker 11 W/mk
Kryonaut 12.5 W/mk

I finally ran out of Cool Silver G4(>12 W/mk, and which I highly recommend, slightly electrically conductive though if that's a concern). And now I'm trying out the Phobya NanoGrease Extreme(16 W/mk). It's ULTRA thick, and kinda hard to work with. But if you can get it spread out super thin it seems to work awesome(as good as anything I've used, or slightly better). It hasn't done that well in reviews though. But I'm pretty sure it's because they aren't getting it spread thin enough.

I haven't tried Kryonaut yet. It's next on the list when I run out of the NanoGrease Extreme. I'm not interested in anything with less than 12 W/mk thermal conductivity.

Here's a review with the MasterGel Maker vs. Kryonaut(and a bunch more).
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-comparison,5108-8.html

I've decided no more diamond-filled TIM for me. That's stuff's all too abrasive. Despite Cooler Master's claim to the contrary(see quote below). I ain't buying that. Heard/seen the IC Diamond horror stories. And witnessed first-hand the scratches Antec 7 causes.

Cooler Master said:
The non-abrasive added Nano Diamond particles allow the MasterGel Maker to be extremely lightweight and easy to spread or remove while avoiding auto-oxidation or erosion overtime.
http://eu.coolermaster.com/en/cooling/thermal-compound/mastergel-maker/

Bullshit!
 
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used both, atm i use the cooler master and no abrasion issue (quite some time since initial application) even tho i wasn't totally in my comfort zone when i saw it was a nano diamond composite, tho they are cooler master ... and not some random bob with no tact whatsoever named IC Diamond, also saw Antec one doing some minimal scratch but not like the ICD.

they behave quite similarly at +/-1° as far as i have seen.

in fact i have tested all TIM from Thermal Grizzly, except the conductonaut, alongside AS5 (which went down the drain.... not worth it anymore) Gelid GC Extreme (quite good .... a bit like the Arctic "cooling" MX4) and the CM MGMN

best result were the CM MGMN and Kryonaut for water block and AIO
 
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I just realized I stil have some MX-4 left so I decided to just take 2x 1g syringes of Conductonaut instead and call it a day for now. The shop where I grabbed it didn't have 1g Kryonaut currently so I just skipped it for now. Graphic card and CPU are of priority and I'll give both some liquid metal treatment. I'll get Kryonaut when MX-4 runs out. MasterGel Maker is more accessible at local stores, but not a single one has Conductonaut or Kryonaut which is odd given how highly they are praised, so I had to order from abroad again (main downside is 15€ shipping costs which sucks). Heh.
 
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With Cooler Master stuff I always get this 'kids toys' feeling... 'MasterGel Maker'... wtf?

And then you see this and all credibility is gone for me. This contains so much wtf I won't even bother describing it all
1528875445109.png
 
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That's just the tip of the iceberg :D

- 1 C temperature gaps between each paste ??
- So MasterGel only gives you 3 C over the ... worst paste? Average paste? Best other paste? Puzzling...
- Non overclockable CPU, and an Ivy Bridge nonetheless.
- But! Don't forget to add the XMP RAM and for sure 32 GB makes those CPU cores real hot.

 
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With Cooler Master stuff I always get this 'kids toys' feeling... 'MasterGel Maker'... wtf?

And then you see this and all credibility is gone for me. This contains so much wtf I won't even bother describing it all
View attachment 102374
actually the T A N brand is a ... wait ... no .... a Tanning line of TIM?????


nah ... seriously they just don't put the name of the brand, they don't do "naming and shaming" like some other brands do.

but truthfully :
T = BeQuiet DC1/Gelid GC2/Prolimatech PK-1/Thermalright CF III ~1°
A = Arctic Silver Alumia ~2°
N = Startech Heatgrease ~3°




I just realized I stil have some MX-4 left so I decided to just take 2x 1g syringes of Conductonaut instead and call it a day for now. The shop where I grabbed it didn't have 1g Kryonaut currently so I just skipped it for now. Graphic card and CPU are of priority and I'll give both some liquid metal treatment. I'll get Kryonaut when MX-4 runs out. MasterGel Maker is more accessible at local stores, but not a single one has Conductonaut or Kryonaut which is odd given how highly they are praised, so I had to order from abroad again (main downside is 15€ shipping costs which sucks). Heh.
well then take the CM MGMN ....

i use both as i wrote in post #4 and the CM MGMN works flawlessly, i took some because my etailer was out of Kryonaut, turns out it's a little bit cheaper (but both are restocked quite frequently )
 
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I've tried GeLid Extreme, Kryonaut, AS 5, NH T1, and cooler master nano. My best temps were with cooler master nano. I say "were" because I am now using a DerBauer Die Frame on my 7900X with no IHS at all.
 
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If your going liquid metal, a messy but good way to apply it to shield it from components you don't want it touching is actually... cheap thermal paste, like mx-4 or mx-2. Coat whatever you don't want it touching with the a thin layer and the thermal paste seems to avoid it and actually have a phobia of conventional thermal pastes. Don't ask me why, just a trick I picked up. Works great on the electrically sensitive "trench/moat" around NVIDIA GPU dies.
 
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- Non overclockable CPU, and an Ivy Bridge nonetheless.
Totally overclockable/"partially unlocked"(up to 44x multi + 1.25x BCLK strap), 130W TDP Sandy Bridge-E. But whatever. I don't even know what the point is supposed to be...
If your going liquid metal, a messy but good way to apply it to shield it from components you don't want it touching is actually... cheap thermal paste, like mx-4 or mx-2. Coat whatever you don't want it touching with the a thin layer and the thermal paste seems to avoid it and actually have a phobia of conventional thermal pastes. Don't ask me why, just a trick I picked up. Works great on the electrically sensitive "trench/moat" around NVIDIA GPU dies.
I thought I invented the trick. But instead of TIM, I use much cheaper, yet equally effective, silicone dielectric grease(same kind you use on spark plug boots and/or brake calipers, among other things).
 
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I thought I invented the trick.
Nope, that "trick" has been around since the dawn of time with electrical tape/whatever else material... remember first hearing about using liquid electrical tape in the 90s, actually.

Technically, you just thought to use dielectric grease and I just thought to use thermal paste (mainly due to the sheer quantity I have). Neither of us really invented anything. The idea to "isolate the electrode" has been around since the dawn of electrical awareness. :laugh:
 
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any of the 2 would do the job. But, I find Kryonaut the better choice IMO.
 
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How much of a chance there is for a precise thin layer of liquid metal to come of a GPU and drop into those capacitors/resistors around GPU?
 
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Holy crap, got the Conductonaut already today and used it on both, CPU and GPU. This is some sick stuff. Easy to apply as well. Good thing I haven't bought either of mentioned ones from above. I'm just gonna use liquid metal from now on, it's that much better. And buy the cheapest possible thermal grease just to protect capacitors around GPU's and stuff. I just smeared them in MX4 paste just in case if Conductonaut by any chance leaks from the GPU and falls onto those. I can't believe I was hesitating to use liquid metal for so long for unknown reasons...
 
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1. TIMs haven't changed much in recent years .... these things are basically rebranded industrial products repackaged for the PC industry. The only new product of any impact was Grizzly's Kryonaut.

2. Just because the come from the same place, doesn't mean the products are the same ... Conductonaut, Kryonaut, Hydronaut, Aeronaut.... all have different thermal properties

3. When ya can find the product direct from the manufacturer, you can save a ton.

4, This 80-way comparison is still completely relevant almost 10 years later ... not much has changed since outside Grizzly's entry into the field.
https://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12

5. Liquid metal is the superior performing solution but it remains risky.

6. I have never quite understood the "doesn't matter" argument as they same argument can be made for a 4.9 versus 5.0 OC, can it not. Given 2 products of equal cost, there's no logic to taking the one that performas slightly better. It's not about worrying whether the system will fry with an extra 2C ... it's about building a system that can be kept as cool as possble with the budget available and yes, unarguably, a result of 67 id better than 69. When performance is equal, other properties should be considered. Take AS5 probably the most oft recommended product for example ...

a) AS5 is capacitive ... so there is a risk that dropping some o electrical contacts could be an issue ... it's a small risk for an experienced user, but no matter how infinitesmal, why take it if there's no upside ?

b) AS5 has a horrendously long cure time of 7+ weeks under normal usage. I can't leave a PC on my workbench that long. I want to dial in those OCs with all my tools at hand, not try and do the final dial in 7 weeks from now with the PC somewhere else. So if no upside, why put up with the inconvenience ?

c) But as we can see in the above link, AS5 has the same Thermal Properties as Shin Etsi G751 ... and Shin Etsu is cheaper !. So why pay more money, for something with the same thermal properties, which adds increased risk and inconvenience ?

7. The TIM should be chosen with the same thought in mind as the cooler... makes no sense pairing a $20 cooler with $20 TIM. OTOH, availability and cost is a reasonable decision criteria. Is half a degree worth paying 5 times more for your TIM or the extra effort in finding it in stock ? That's an individual decision.

My recommendation:

a) Shin Etsu G751 at < $4 should be the baseline ... No reason to purchase a product that performs almost as well or the same that costs more.
b) I used to avoid Kryonaut cause it always cost more and was difficult to find. That's not true a smuch anymore as it's readily available on newegg from $18 to $20 ... even better newegg business has it for $10. If the extra 0.5C tickles ya fancy, I can't argue with 6 bucks.
c) If ya want t pick up a bit extra, give LM a try ... but be aware of the fact that it has a negative effect on copper and you will have to reapply one or twice during your box's lifetime ... there's a risk but if ya have experience building a dozen or more boxes, it's not that great a risk. read the Charles C experience under reviews here:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4YU4GP8298







.
 
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I have Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra between CPU IHS and waterblock, and between GPU die and Strix DirectCU II cooler. It's not that hard to apply for a GPU if you just be careful and know what you're doing.
 
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Liquid metal TIM $1 per gram. It's called Galinstan. And it's the base compound that all liquid metal TIMs are made from. Conductonaut is, probably, just high indium content Galinstan. And the others(Phobya LM, CLU, CLP) are probably similarly high in indium too. Since it's got the highest thermal conductivity of the metals used to make it. The reported thermal conductivity of Galinstan is only 16.5 W/mk though. Which doesn't make a lot of sense. Since all of the component metals used to make it are all significantly higher than that.

Gallium 29 W/mK
Indium 86 W/mK
Tin 67 W/mK

Maybe there's some magic chemistry/physics to explain why/how Galinstan would only be 16.5 W/mK. Or maybe it's just BS. I dunno...

Make your own Galinstan(fairly easy, but NOT cheap).
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/6uf2gc
 

vgm

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@RejZoR Cooler Master Mastergel Maker and Nano diamond are two different pastes. Maker Gel nano is on par with kryonaut in terms of cooling. At my place, kryonaut was too expensive while Nano gel was cheaper and the paste is holding up pretty good even after a year with zero difference in temperatures, its the same like Day 1.
Then again, some people have better luck with Kryonaut or Phobya nanogrease extreme or gelid extreme as well.
CM Maker gel nano didn't scratch my surface at all even after disassembling the laptop several times. The paste is softer and has smooth texture and little thick too. While TGK is easy to spread and needs perfect heatsink contact like LM such as, TGC,Liquid ultra or Gallistan.
If you're OC near 5GHz, a delid with TGC or Gallistan and LM on IHS will be better option to push heat as fast as possible.
Review of CM Maker gel nano https://www.eteknix.com/cooler-master-mastergel-maker-nano-review/3/
Its just a list of thermal pastes I compiled with the help of community reviews & can be found here: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/which-thermal-paste-to-buy-and-apply-traditional-and-liquid-metal.806840/
 

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Prolimatech PK-3 is also a solid performer. Performance wise it sits just below GC extreme
 
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vgm

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Hm, but for me, CM page doesn't even list the MasterGel Nano...
http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Lines/thermal-compound/

There is just MasterGel Maker. I thought Maker and Nano are one and the same thing.
Oh my!! Last year they had a product called MasterGel and most of them were confused and blasted CM saying CM MG Nano was POS.
I'm glad they killed the confusing Makergel(without Nano) and made it more clear.
 
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Processor Intel i9 9900k
Motherboard ASRock Z390 Taichi
Cooling Noctua NH-D15 + A whole lotta Sunon and Corsair Maglev blower fans...
Memory G.SKILL TridentZ Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 @ 14-14-14-34-2T
Video Card(s) EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER XC ULTRA
Storage Mushkin Pilot-E 2TB NVMe SSD
Display(s) 55" LG 55" B9 OLED 4K Display
Case Thermaltake Core X31
Audio Device(s) VGA HDMI->Panasonic SC-HTB20/Schiit Modi MB/Asgard 2 DAC/Amp to AKG Pro K7712 Headphones
Power Supply Seasonic Prime Titanium 750W
Mouse ROCCAT Kone EMP
Keyboard WASD CODE 104-Key w/ Cherry MX Green Keyswitches, Doubleshot Vortex PBT White Transluscent Keycaps
Software Windows 10 Enterprise (yes, it's legit.)
Benchmark Scores www.3dmark.com/fs/23478641 www.3dmark.com/spy/13863605 www.3dmark.com/pr/306218
Holy crap, got the Conductonaut already today and used it on both, CPU and GPU. This is some sick stuff. Easy to apply as well. Good thing I haven't bought either of mentioned ones from above. I'm just gonna use liquid metal from now on, it's that much better. And buy the cheapest possible thermal grease just to protect capacitors around GPU's and stuff. I just smeared them in MX4 paste just in case if Conductonaut by any chance leaks from the GPU and falls onto those. I can't believe I was hesitating to use liquid metal for so long for unknown reasons...
Yep, welcome to the only real thermal solution worth paying extra for... If done right, liquid metal is awesome material unlike anything else, and provides way more than the 1-2C difference common in thermal pastes. And yeah, you did right shielding the components around the GPU die. Doesn't take much but makes it A LOT safer.
 
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