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CRISIS! PC went game over. What can it be? Shortage?

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#1
once again, my pc (as listed on specs) decided to go game over mode today. and now i cannot get it to power on at all.

it started as after i did some dust removal. i must've done something wrong as i was cleaning the pc with a dust removal spray. i waited about 1 hour before i plugged i powered it up, and nope. it refused to start. i found out the solution was that my power cable wasn't properly attached to the wall, so after i attached it properly AND i also changed the cables you see on the photo below, and it worked good for about 1-2 hours before it shut off all of a sudden as i was watching youtube. and now, i cannot get it to power on whatsoever. i tried changing power cable, but nope. i tried to plug the old and new power cable into a different outlet, but nope.

photo:


i have a corsair vs550 psu. i do not have any warranty left.

anything i should test/do to make it work, or is the psu all gone? the dust removal spray messed it all up for me, huh? i have used that dust removal spray about 7-9 times on this pc and never had issues with it before now....

what can be done? any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks in advance!
 
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#2
There is a lot of things that can be causing this. Obviously the first thing I would try is swapping out the PSU with a known good one, preferably another quality one in case the cause is something else.

The issue could also be the motherboard. A failed component on the motherboard could have gone short circuit, causing the PSU's overcurrent protection to kick in and turn of the computer. If it is in the CPU VRM section(where that plug you circled provides power) then it could have damaged the plug. This is why I recommend testing with a quality PSU, because if something on the board has gone short circuit, the PSU's OCP will trip and turn the machine off before something gets to hot.
 
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#3
'' i was cleaning the pc with a dust removal spray '' canned air or some thing water based or a chemical in it that mat be harmful to electronics ?

show us the type of spray and brand and all in a product link to look over

about all you should need is dry compressed air to blow dust out and maybe a makeup type brush if any heavy build up if necessary or extreme dirty .
 

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#5
I'd have to agree and say your PSU has given up. it may have a blown cap, but if you can't repair it yourself, buy a new unit.
 
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#6
Make sure the small switch on the back of your power supply is in the on position if you havent already
 
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#7
Make sure the small switch on the back of your power supply is in the on position if you havent already
And not the one that changes voltages if it has it.
I've witnessed one blow while switched on :D
 
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#8
my power cable wasn't properly attached to the wall, so after i attached it properly AND i also changed the cables you see on the photo below
Why did you change the EPS cable? You said the main power cord was loose/unplugged from the wall. Was the EPS connector burned or melted? I think your PSU is toast.
 
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#9
Try the simple stuff first while trouble shooting issues like this, like dusting it out again but this time component by component individually one by one. Some times when you use compressed air to dust things it gets into other things.

Every time I've had this happen to me it's because dust got some where it shouldn't have been in the first place like a cpu socket for example.

Like all good trouble shooting more information needed op, try doing a few of the simpler things as mentioned in this thread and report back often! GL
 
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#10
see? this is why always ask my silly and noobish PC-questions in here rather than on reddit etc. I have tried reddit, but seriously, hands down for you guys! ever since i found my way in here, you have ALWAYS solved my whatever serious/silly pc-issues that popup! and although i still haven't solved the issue, just the helpful advises AND them many replies counts a lot! sorry, just a quick "thank you"-post!

There is a lot of things that can be causing this. Obviously the first thing I would try is swapping out the PSU with a known good one, preferably another quality one in case the cause is something else.

The issue could also be the motherboard. A failed component on the motherboard could have gone short circuit, causing the PSU's overcurrent protection to kick in and turn of the computer. If it is in the CPU VRM section(where that plug you circled provides power) then it could have damaged the plug. This is why I recommend testing with a quality PSU, because if something on the board has gone short circuit, the PSU's OCP will trip and turn the machine off before something gets to hot.
yes that is my plan for today since i have a day off from work.

'' i was cleaning the pc with a dust removal spray '' canned air or some thing water based or a chemical in it that mat be harmful to electronics ?

show us the type of spray and brand and all in a product link to look over

about all you should need is dry compressed air to blow dust out and maybe a makeup type brush if any heavy build up if necessary or extreme dirty .
my spray says "contains propane and butane".. but, the spray should not be an issue since i have used it several times before, no?

Your PSU went bang most likely.
I'd have to agree and say your PSU has given up. it may have a blown cap, but if you can't repair it yourself, buy a new unit.
ohhh crap... BOTH eidairaman AND caring saying my pc is totasted... and their words have been spot on before... i will still try to see IF that's the case, though i do believe you two. ;)

Make sure the small switch on the back of your power supply is in the on position if you havent already
ok i will do so. thanks for the tip.

Try the simple stuff first while trouble shooting issues like this, like dusting it out again but this time component by component individually one by one. Some times when you use compressed air to dust things it gets into other things.

Every time I've had this happen to me it's because dust got some where it shouldn't have been in the first place like a cpu socket for example.

Like all good trouble shooting more information needed op, try doing a few of the simpler things as mentioned in this thread and report back often! GL
thanks and i will try to do all these above-mentioned things, hoping for the best!

HOWEVER, IF it turns out that my PSU = dead, which PSU must i find that fits my current motherboard? the one i am using now, is an ATX, yes? so i take it that i must find an ATX? if that's the case, which of these should i go for? (cheapest is first):
LC-Power Super Silent LC6650 V2.3 650W

FSP Group FSP650-80EGN 650W

Cooler Master G650M 650W

Be Quiet! Pure Power L8 CM 630W

they are all within my budget. feel free to come with other suggestions too!

and IF the PSU is not toasted, the motherboard is, yes?
 
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#11
The PC in it's entirety is not toasted , probably just the PSU. Regardless the only way forward seems to be to test with another PSU.
 
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#12
see? this is why always ask my silly and noobish PC-questions in here rather than on reddit etc. I have tried reddit, but seriously, hands down for you guys! ever since i found my way in here, you have ALWAYS solved my whatever serious/silly pc-issues that popup! and although i still haven't solved the issue, just the helpful advises AND them many replies counts a lot! sorry, just a quick "thank you"-post!



yes that is my plan for today since i have a day off from work.



my spray says "contains propane and butane".. but, the spray should not be an issue since i have used it several times before, no?




ohhh crap... BOTH eidairaman AND caring saying my pc is totasted... and their words have been spot on before... i will still try to see IF that's the case, though i do believe you two. ;)



ok i will do so. thanks for the tip.



thanks and i will try to do all these above-mentioned things, hoping for the best!

HOWEVER, IF it turns out that my PSU = dead, which PSU must i find that fits my current motherboard? the one i am using now, is an ATX, yes? so i take it that i must find an ATX? if that's the case, which of these should i go for? (cheapest is first):
LC-Power Super Silent LC6650 V2.3 650W

FSP Group FSP650-80EGN 650W

Cooler Master G650M 650W

Be Quiet! Pure Power L8 CM 630W

they are all within my budget. feel free to come with other suggestions too!

and IF the PSU is not toasted, the motherboard is, yes?
Out of those brands I'd personally only use that be quiet PSU you mentioned. As with all electronics it's best to check the warranty on them and usually pick the one That has the longest.
 
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#13
Pretty much wouldn't touch those cheap LC-Bombs... except with nearest available blunt instrument.
Also all others are very low end designs with cheap components.
BeQuiet is made by HEC, which is overall cheap low end manufacturer.
CM is made by CWT, which has platforms all around in quality.
And FSP is... well FSP and capable to reasonable budget PSUs, just don't expect better than C(r)apXon capacitors.

For that level CPU and graphics card quality 450W PSU would be enough...
And better than marketing BS watts with designed to fail component selection.

Heck, for the likely price of price of that CoolerHamster you would get lot more modern 80+ Gold Bitfenix Formula 550W which has quality capacitors.
And Seasonic Focus Plus with 10 year warranty isn't much more.
And then there's its semi-modular rebranding Antec Earthwatts Gold Pro.
 
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#14
OK people! i finally got around to do some testing, and the PSU works like a charm!! however, i DID figure out what seemed to be causing this...shutdown; one power cable on one of the HDD's was slightly loose. i decided to remove the HDD and now it works brilliantly! but now im out of SATA-ports on my motherboard, so i cannot connect the hdd anywhere, i guess.. so i probably need to buy new PSU after all, or no?

i should also note that i tried to spray once again in the PSU as well as i changed the EPS-cable back to its original spot. i then tried to start the pc with only the windows hdd connected. that worked fine.

but as you can see from these pictures, my pc/psu is a spinning hazard, i guess:


^ as you can see, one connector is loose. that one was connected to the hdd that i have now disconnected from the pc.


^ this is the disconnected hdd, and wow, i didn't notice this until now, but as you can see, this hdd is pretty much dead, right? maybe that was what caused the shutdown?


^ and finally, notice the yellow cable that's loosened from the others. i wasn't sure where to put it, since it will shutdown the pc if that loose yellow cable connects with any metal, yes? as you can see, that is the current hdd im using.

any thoughts on whether i should buy a new psu or just new connectors will do?

Pretty much wouldn't touch those cheap LC-Bombs... except with nearest available blunt instrument.
Also all others are very low end designs with cheap components.
BeQuiet is made by HEC, which is overall cheap low end manufacturer.
CM is made by CWT, which has platforms all around in quality.
And FSP is... well FSP and capable to reasonable budget PSUs, just don't expect better than C(r)apXon capacitors.

For that level CPU and graphics card quality 450W PSU would be enough...
And better than marketing BS watts with designed to fail component selection.

Heck, for the likely price of price of that CoolerHamster you would get lot more modern 80+ Gold Bitfenix Formula 550W which has quality capacitors.
And Seasonic Focus Plus with 10 year warranty isn't much more.
And then there's its semi-modular rebranding Antec Earthwatts Gold Pro.
i see. that seasonic is waaay over my budget, unfortunately. any thoughts on this PSU: EVGA BQ 650W Hybrid Modular 80+? thanks for inputs! :)
 
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#15
That picture of the hard drive, the plastic around the connectors is all broken off, and wire pulled loose from terminal - you are hard on PC components, you have to have a little finesse when dealing with electronics. You can't just start snatching wires loose, they have retaining latches. Never pull on the wires, grip by the terminal block, release the catch, and wiggle it gently loose. Normal fix would be to solder or crimp the wire back on to the terminal and buy a new HDD or SSD. Crazy to scrap a working PSU because of one loose wire. Find someone who can do a simple wire terminal repair and give them $5 to fix it.
 
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#16
If you have a molex available use one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Molex-Power-SATA-Female-Adapter/dp/B000YJMB5Y
That picture of the hard drive, the plastic around the connectors is all broken off, and wire pulled loose from terminal - you are hard on PC components, you have to have a little finesse when dealing with electronics. You can't just start snatching wires loose, they have retaining latches. Never pull on the wires, grip by the terminal block, release the catch, and wiggle it gently loose. Normal fix would be to solder or crimp the wire back on to the terminal and buy a new HDD or SSD. Crazy to scrap a working PSU because of one loose wire. Find someone who can do a simple wire terminal repair and give them $5 to fix it.
Agreed on all.
 
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#17

^ as you can see, one connector is loose. that one was connected to the hdd that i have now disconnected from the pc.
Missing orange wire would be for 3,3V.
Which I've got no idea why they crammed into SATA connector.
It's not used by any drive (drawing power from lower voltage means higher current&transfer losses) which is how adapters from Molex without 3,3V work.
So it only makes connector more cramped with more tightly spaced contacts with less tolerances before something shorts out.

But yellow wire is 12V, which is needed by HDDs for spindle motor and also shows up in specs of some SSDs.

i see. that seasonic is waaay over my budget, unfortunately. any thoughts on this PSU: EVGA BQ 650W Hybrid Modular 80+? thanks for inputs! :)
Those low end EVGAs don't have really much any reviews.
So they're likely about full of cheap capacitors.
And in lots of power on hours enthusiast PC use wouldn't trust to be reliable for more than 3-4 years.
 
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#18
That picture of the hard drive, the plastic around the connectors is all broken off, and wire pulled loose from terminal - you are hard on PC components, you have to have a little finesse when dealing with electronics. You can't just start snatching wires loose, they have retaining latches. Never pull on the wires, grip by the terminal block, release the catch, and wiggle it gently loose. Normal fix would be to solder or crimp the wire back on to the terminal and buy a new HDD or SSD. Crazy to scrap a working PSU because of one loose wire. Find someone who can do a simple wire terminal repair and give them $5 to fix it.
i totally agree on this, but i can assure you that i have been careful and done it like you describe. this is a pre-owned pc (hence why i only paid $300 for it), so the person before me, must've been rather rough on the parts, unfortunately. but being gentle with pc parts is one thing i have learned. im not going to excuse myself away here. maybe i could have been even more careful. lesson learned. i will not scrap this psu, no. i will figure out ways to fix this, one way or another.

thanks for the help so far anyways. :)

Missing orange wire would be for 3,3V.
Which I've got no idea why they crammed into SATA connector.
It's not used by any drive (drawing power from lower voltage means higher current&transfer losses) which is how adapters from Molex without 3,3V work.
So it only makes connector more cramped with more tightly spaced contacts with less tolerances before something shorts out.

But yellow wire is 12V, which is needed by HDDs for spindle motor and also shows up in specs of some SSDs.

Those low end EVGAs don't have really much any reviews.
So they're likely about full of cheap capacitors.
And in lots of power on hours enthusiast PC use wouldn't trust to be reliable for more than 3-4 years.
i understand. so are you saying that i really dont need that orange cable for the hdd to work, or?
 
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#19
i understand. so are you saying that i really dont need that orange cable for the hdd to work, or?
Well, SATA adapters from Molex never have 3,3V and still SATA drives work with them...

But that yellow 12V wire missing is problem (also some SSDs use it besides 5V) even if doesn't short circuit to something.
 
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#20
VS are crapp series from Corsair,dont buy ever it again.
 
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Cooling Coolermaster 240 RGB A.I.O.
Memory G. Skill 16Gb (4x4Gb) 2133Mhz
Video Card(s) Nvidia GTX 710
Storage Sandisk X 400 256Gb
Display(s) AOC 22" Freesync 1m.s. 75Hz
Case Corsair 450D High Air Flow.
Audio Device(s) No need.
Power Supply FSP Aurum 650W
Software W10 Home Premium 64 bit
#21
Personally I would solder that yellow wire back in, or cut that last section off, and remove the dodgy drive if it's not vital.
 
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