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Custom Watercooling loop advice needed

FSXManu

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Hi

I've been planning to make a custom loop pc for myself with my alteady existing parts.
Atm I got two RTX2080Ti in SLI and an i7-8700k with an ASUS z370-f mainboard (maybe upgrading the CPU)

Now my Problem is I never built a custom watercooled pc before. I got a friend who knows stuff about hard tubing and stuff stuff so he will help me with that.
I want it in the Phanteks Enthoo 719 case because I got like 6 SSDs.
I don't knkw which parts I need like yes fittings and the tubes and stuff (already got waterblocks for cpu und gpu and a reservoir/pump combo and the ekwb watercooled sli bridge)

Can anyone help me in terms of which parts I need like tubing and fittings? I think the 16mm/13mm tubes will be the ones I go for.

Best regards
Manuel
 
I have the 16/12 EKWB acrylic hard tubes and EKWB 16mm hard tubing fittings. But you can also use 13/10 or 12/10 acrylic tubes if you want a little smaller ones.

When it comes to hard tubing you only have to decide between PETG or acrylic tubes.
 
I don't recommend hard tubing the first go... but if you have a friend...

Will that case hold 7x120mm worth of radiator? To cool 2x 2080ti (why do you have 2 2080ti...you play at 4k????) and the cpu, you will need around that much.
 
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I don't recommend hard tubing the first go... but if you gave a friend...

Will that case hold 7x120mm worth of radiator? To cool 2x 2080ti (why do you have 2 2080ti...you play at 4k????) and the cpu, you will need around that much.

That case is huge, you have plenty of radiator space, look here:

1583757906889.png


Is definitely in my consideration taking this case for my next water cooling rig.
 
Might be a suggestion at this point but grab some soft tubing as well, make it outside the case if you'd like and test it that way. Sometimes much easier for trial installs and it's an easy way to get to grips with everything :)

Also as I try to test this way as well, don't power from the PC to test the tubing and barbs/fittings etc., use a molex or whatever the pump power connector is from another PC and just have the pump powered on, seems to work fine for me although I'm sure that there's another way around doing that, 24 plug trick I guess?? :)

The hard tubing I've not yet gone over to as I'm personally not such a fan but I've not had any issues with soft tubing all the times I've used it so if you can give it ago first time, why not :) Just be warey as it's a hard job from what I see and hear :)
 
That case is huge, you have plenty of radiator space, look here:



Is definitely in my consideration taking this case for my next water cooling rig.
Plenty of locations for rads, but where does the cool air come in unimpeded?

I really dislike that side rad location... especially on cases (not sure if this one is or not) that have poor airflow properties.


This guy is cooling around 600W when the CPU is overclocked... so airflow is key.
 
I'm sure that there's another way around doing that, 24 plug trick I guess??

I use that one to power on pump without plugging in the PSU to the mainboard:
1583759042230.png

The hard tubing I've not yet gone over to as I'm personally not such a fan but I've not had any issues with soft tubing all the times I've used it so if you can give it ago first time, why not :) Just be warey as it's a hard job from what I see and hear

Hard tubing has the cleaner and better look in my opinion but that's personal preference.

This guy is cooling around 600W when the CPU is overclocked... so airflow is key.

He has to cool up to 800W, RTX 2080Ti up to 300W, twice of those and the i7 8700K up to 200W in worst case. But he wouldn't need to use those side panel to assemble a rad there, he can do a 480 rad front and a 360 rad top. Should be sufficient. And by the way air flow is needed for RAM and VRM, CPU+GPU is water cooled.
 
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He has to cool up to 800W, RTX 2080Ti up to 300W, twice of those and the i7 8700K up to 200W in worst case. But he wouldn't need to use those side panel to assemble a rad there, he can do a 480 rad front and a 360 rad top. Should be sufficient.
If each part is overclocked to the max, sure. Otherwise, at stock, they are 250W cards, and I gave the 8700K 100W... underestimating it. So, up to 800W... then I would want 8x120mm worth of rad...

... I'm not convinced this case can move enough cool air to make it worth it... One rad up front to blow warm air in the chassis to go through the second rad...
 
So, up to 800W... then I would want 8x120mm worth of rad...

Yes that would be optimum but imho 480+360 rad should also be sufficient. Need to speed up the radiator fans a little and you are nice to go. And as you said, 800W is a worst case scenario, mostly it will be below that.
As a rule you can read in the web, a 120mm rad can cool 75W up to 125W, that's dependend of the noise you want to tolerate, cause for 125W you have to speed up the fans. So with 7x120mm you could cool 525W if you want an absolute silent loop and up to 875W if you speed up your fans.
 
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Yes that would be optimum but imho 480+360 rad should also be sufficient. Need to speed up the radiator fans a little and you are nice to go. And as you said, 800W is a worst case scenario, mostly it will be below that.

That will be sufficient... and what I said originally, lol.


Part of the point, to me, for watercooling is that it isn't as loud and runs cooler. I fear with lower rad amounts and case airflow, this won't be optimal for the OP. It will work, and be OK.., note. :)

Still trying to figure out the need for 2x 2080Ti's, lol!
 
Part of the point, to me, for watercooling is that it isn't as loud and runs cooler.

Sure the noise is one thing people dislike, but my rig gets only loud in high load scenarios like gaming or benchmarking. While gaming I wear a headset, so I can't hear anything lol.

As a rule you can read in the web, a 120mm rad can cool 75W up to 125W, that's dependend of the noise you want to tolerate, cause for 125W you have to speed up the fans. So with 7x120mm you could cool 525W if you want an absolute silent loop and up to 875W if you speed up your fans.
 
You haven't told me a thing I don't know, Jack. :)

All I am saying is the to get the most out of the water cooling and have quiet operations, it needs to have enough rad capacity and airflow.

Our guides:
 
Here a picture from the web with 3 rads, 2x360 and 1x480:

1583761757130.png
 
if your just going for a static build " you build and don't touch it" id go for hard tubing but if your like me " the rig evolves week by month" go for soft tubing its much more forgiving and easyer to swap out kit. goodluck not that you will need it.
 
if your just going for a static build " you build and don't touch it" id go for hard tubing but if your like me " the rig evolves week by month" go for soft tubing its much more forgiving and easyer to swap out kit. goodluck not that you will need it.
It's not all about evolving it's also about looking and hard tubing has the better look in my opinion. So yes it's more complicated than soft tubing and not that nice if you want to put a new component in your rig but the look is worth the effort imho.

That's what I mean, nice and clean look:

1583763586212.png
 
"putty n paint make many men faint " ill allways take function over looks unless we are talking about ladys but its nice to have looks and function together :).
 
I use that one to power on pump without plugging in the PSU to the mainboard:
View attachment 147584


Hard tubing has the cleaner and better look in my opinion but that's personal preference.



He has to cool up to 800W, RTX 2080Ti up to 300W, twice of those and the i7 8700K up to 200W in worst case. But he wouldn't need to use those side panel to assemble a rad there, he can do a 480 rad front and a 360 rad top. Should be sufficient. And by the way air flow is needed for RAM and VRM, CPU+GPU is water cooled.
I understand that one :) Works a treat if there was anything to happen :)

I can agree hard tubing in some ways better but as we agree, it's all personal preference :)

Well from the Black Nemesis GTR's seem to be rather decent and from this spec list - GTR Rads a dual rad would do :)

1583765680693.png


Unless I'm reading it wrong....
 
Well from the Black Nemesis GTR's seem to be rather decent and from this spec list - GTR Rads a dual rad would do

Those charts can't be right, a 240 rad is capable of handling 1100W? Can't believe that or I get it wrong :D
But their radiators are really good, if not the best on market.
 
Well from the Black Nemesis GTR's seem to be rather decent and from this spec list - GTR Rads a dual rad would do
I wonder at what delta they base that wattage on.................I mean you can throw on a push/pull set of 3,000 RPM deltas maybe......... but as was quoted earlier, the general rule of thumb is around 100W / 120mm (thin) radiators.

I mean, AMD's R9 295x2 was ~500W and 'cooled' by a 120mm radiator... the water temp was like 60C and barely kept the card from throttling with the fan at full tilt.......
 
I would see how many watts you are pulling from the wall under load on air. Then plan according to that. My guess is you will need 6-7x120 worth of cooling. So 3 240's or 1 360 and 2 240's.
 
Those charts can't be right, a 240 rad is capable of handling 1100W? Can't believe that or I get it wrong :D
But their radiators are really good, if not the best on market.
I wonder at what delta they base that wattage on.................I mean you can throw on a push/pull set of 3,000 RPM deltas maybe......... but as was quoted earlier, the general rule of thumb is around 100W / 120mm (thin) radiators.

I mean, AMD's R9 295x2 was ~500W and 'cooled' by a 120mm radiator... the water temp was like 60C and barely kept the card from throttling with the fan at full tilt.......
Both are interesting questions to ask answers of which I've no idea :laugh: :roll:

Been looking at a few water cooling bits of late, so the thread caught my eye and with the wattage requirements as well...

I know I mention Jayztwocents a fair bit but he does mention that a '120mm rad' for each component... Wonder if it's worth an ask to Black Nemesis as well just to see if they can confirm....
 
Since you are new to this start with flexible tubing to prevent wasting money on having to reshape due to errors in measurements.

Also Do not mix dissimilar metals together as Galvanic Corrosion can set in and is only sped up with a electrolyte. So if running a copper block make sure fittings are 100% compatible (not just by thread but by metal same with the radiator (copper).

If you use aluminum, use aluminum only.
 
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