• Welcome to TechPowerUp Forums, Guest! Please check out our forum guidelines for info related to our community.
  • The forums have been upgraded with support for dark mode. By default it will follow the setting on your system/browser. You may override it by scrolling to the end of the page and clicking the gears icon.

Decrease your GPU temps with 10 C - is cheap and easy to do

Repasted with Kryonaut on my two year old 4090 , , hot spot temp went from a high of 79c to 63c , 63c used to be core temp , now 55c , GPU is mounted vertical, , have a big case which helps a lot
Also PSU Eco mode ,long gaming sessions will add a few c to case, I don't use Eco.
 
Last edited:
rusty caterpillar said:
If the PSU got her own cage than the fan is not an intake or exhaust regarding your case cooling. Is just an isolated intake.
As I understand from your post you have 2x exhaust fans top and rear and none intake? Than is clearly negative pressure and in my experience, brings more dust in your case.
In my old case I had negative pressure for a while, GPU was the most part cover in the dust.
Click to expand...

I am fine with my configuration, yes, 0 intake, 2 exhaust. I think negative air pressure is better, because the intake air has lower velocity, the intake fans act like a vacuum cleaner.
 
@eidairaman1
lol, was never an issue.
the base was large enough, and with all the water it had, never even got close to tipping over, and even if, probably would hurt floor/other stuff more,
as the fins were pretty thick/sturdy.
but mine was converted to 1/2in ID, and with an eheim pump had enough power to run 6ft of tubing outside the case, and have it sit in a corner 3ft from walls.

@ARF
not really. the size of your fan filer/mesh determines how much ends up in the case.
and given the same overall airflow, i can have 2 run at full speed, producing as much airflow as running 2+2 and reduced rpm by half, reducing noise, and load on fans.
 
I ordered a Thermalright Helios pad for my GPU, I am going to try that out and see how it does. It will be my first thermal interface sheet purchase..

No problems with temps, but I think I would rather have that on than some TIM that I smeared around in the hopes of improvement over stock, which there was none.
 
freeagent said:
I ordered a Thermalright Helios pad for my GPU, I am going to try that out and see how it does. It will be my first thermal interface sheet purchase..
Click to expand...
I think you can achieve same thing with IC 7 Diamond thermal paste, after 4.5 years was in very good condition with no issue on temps CPU. Heat transfer similar with the sheet. I still have some in my syringe since I bought it 12 years ago, is not dry, my CPU temps are good.
 
freeagent said:
Thanks, but no thanks, I wont use anything from them.
Click to expand...
o_OAre that bad?

lexluthermiester said:
Having done something similar to this many times myself over the years, I can fully confirm that this kind of mod works well! Very well done Rusty!
Click to expand...
Thanks. I did it first time myself around 2000 on a Riva TnT 64.

ShrimpBrime said:
He's talking about T-Case Delta. By dropping ambient temps inside the case from intake fans and lower ambient temps, Could lower the internal component's temps by as much as 10c.

But I suppose it would help to drop a thermometer in the case first to take that measurement.

Maybe get one of these. Indoor Hygrometer
Hygro.jpg
Click to expand...

Got 2 of this.
 
freeagent said:
I ordered a Thermalright Helios pad for my GPU, I am going to try that out and see how it does. It will be my first thermal interface sheet purchase..

No problems with temps, but I think I would rather have that on than some TIM that I smeared around in the hopes of improvement over stock, which there was none.
Click to expand...

I decided to get Thermal Grizzly KryoSheet for my cpu and gpu.
Haven't noticed much on the cpu, but my gpu hotspot ranges now between 5°C to 9°C was between 10°C to 15°C before.
My paste was still good though, only dropped gpu temp by may 3 to 4°C
 
I am looking at a 10-12c hotspot range too, no different from sock, that is why I thought I would give it a whirl.
 
Well, I modded 3 120min fans in my case just to get my RX470 blower still to behave (can't get an accurate reading at the moment as it is part winter still) with an undervolt. If my GPU reaches 83c it will disable my Radeon drivers and force intel IGPU as primary. Then I have to restart my PC. I need to replace my thermal pads but twice I wanted to order from 2 different suppliers. and twice the payment gateway on their website didn't work...
 
lexluthermiester said:
The company that made IC Diamond had a VERY bad run in with TPU and it's users BITD.
Read here for further info.

Innovation Cooling CEO throws tantrum on TechPowerUp forums!

The CEO of Innovation Cooling LLC, Makers of IC Diamond thermal paste/compound/TIM offered a challenge on the widely popular enthusiast com...
remixedcat.blogspot.com remixedcat.blogspot.com
Remixedcat and the others summed it up well.

With that said, let's let that topic rest.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the data. I had only an IC7 syringe, bought it from Amazon I believe around that time. Different batch maybe. I still have it, atm is IC 7 on my CPU and GPU. Never had issue with it. However I'll change it soon with a TF 8 maybe to see if is any difference, at least I will do it on my CPU.
 
Last edited:
Waldorf said:
@rusty caterpillar

still say you're better off mounting the rad to the side, and have the top for case flow,
i bet it'll drop 20-30C on the case, probably 10C for the gpu temps.
Click to expand...
Here you are, 2x Hygro devices added 1 inside the case and one outside , Vertical side radiator mount vs Horizontal.



PierreJG said:
Well, I modded 3 120min fans in my case just to get my RX470 blower still to behave (can't get an accurate reading at the moment as it is part winter still) with an undervolt. If my GPU reaches 83c it will disable my Radeon drivers and force intel IGPU as primary. Then I have to restart my PC. I need to replace my thermal pads but twice I wanted to order from 2 different suppliers. and twice the payment gateway on their website didn't work...
Click to expand...
If is a blower I always deshroud those cards, are design to run in servers with different type of airflows, blowers are not suitable for the normal desktop use. Too noisy and too hot.
Talking the fact that is just an RX470 I would just get a second hand 1070 Ti or 1080 Ti. Last time when I deshrouded a PNY A4000(blower used in a desktop) I added a back plate to, crafted of an Al sheet with thermal pads in between backplate and the GPU PCB, of course was no pressure(lack of machine screws) was just seated on thermal pads I than soldered a low profile heatsink on that backplate with thermal sheet in between. 2x80mm fans was cooling it on the other side with the original radiator. Of course now the card was almost 3 slots sandwich but, was cool and quiet.

However that PNY A4000 was still powerful and owner wanted to keep and use it with less noise and heat so the mod made sense. Is worth it for the RX 470? - is your decision to make. You need a Jigsaw, jigsaw blade for metal, sanding paper, 2x 80mm maybe, thermal pads, small Aluminum sheet , low profile radiator maybe not need it in your case, maybe a third fan on the backplate if is the case.

Focused airflow(pull) on that particular square on the back of the GPU where are the VRAM and GPU is more effective than 3 x fans far away in the case. Is just a matter on how fast a debit of air is moving heat away from VRAM, PWR delivery and GPU and simply fans away from GPU doesn't do same thing. I 've seen plenty of clients desktops with a lot of fans inside, yet their GPU was running hot or very hot.
When thermal pads are old, thermal paste dry, GPUs fans ineffective backplate fan helps but, those 3 issues has to be fixed and get rid of the cause not just killing the symptoms.

I understand that if are no means and resources available is very frustrating, I was there to.

Hope it helps
 
Last edited:
This actually works...under stress with E@h on BOINC:
- 3°C down on RTX 4000
- ~15°C down on Tesla P4

Proof in picture measurement!
with extra fan for GPUs.png
 
rusty caterpillar said:
Glad it helped! Both are blower cards if I'm not mistaken. Interesting Tesla only 75 W TDP compared wit RTX 4000 around 140 W TDP yet, Tesla gets 15 C lower.
Click to expand...
Yes, the TESLA is also "add on blower", see the picture(s) here in D30: https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/lenovo-workstations-owners-club.275718/post-5260016

Though this "single slot 140W RTX 4000" is little on a limit...so I have opened all holes next to cards, to have more flow over them! :cool:

EDIT: Also, TESLA got "constant speed fan", powered from "fan hub"...while RTX 4000 has got "controlled Nvidia fan" built in! So that is why the temps do not go down so much on RTX 4000 (probably).
 
Last edited:
Corrosion can show sometimes in places where copper meat steal..... I Saw that few times. Or when computer was used in specific places. I saw computer that was work close to painting room and also corrosion was there (and patin also).
 
Easeful2341 said:
Corrosion can show sometimes in places where copper meat steal..... I Saw that few times. Or when computer was used in specific places. I saw computer that was work close to painting room and also corrosion was there (and patin also).
Click to expand...
Close to painting room? Maybe the corrosion was caused by the solvents evaporating in the air. Some paints got higher VOC some lower and the curing can take much longer than we think, even if painted objects are touch dry doesn't mean solvents are not still released and inhaled by us or affecting other surfaces. For example, even high quality plastics will inherit paint/solvent smell and hold it for long time if it was close proximity unpainted fresh wood will do that to. Those surfaces which sucked up on solvents now will released that slowly even that any painting process or exposure was stopped.
In the case that are water based paints, they will bring higher humidity while drying/curing and also they do contain adhesives which evaporates together with water and deposits everywhere and take by computer fans and push inside the case. A you can see in the pictures above those radiators and cold plates had humidity for a while but, no adhesives or solvents along with that humidity, copper surfaces was very little or not affected at all.
However I remains with my statement - manufacturer shouldn't plate copper cold plates just because in some cases the environmental factors will favor corrosion or fast forwarding the process. Minority shouldn't overrule majority.

Waldorf said:
@ARF
anytime you have airflow, there will be dust, doesnt matter if intake/exhaust etc, amount of total flow is relevant, as well as dust in the home.
the best fan covers will never prevent dust getting in, short of running a hepa air cleaner in the room (did for a time), extending the time between dust cleaner by 4 times,
its down to balancing noise/cooling/dust.
still, ppl not willing to spend 10min a few times a year to clean +1.5K of parts, seem to me like those driving a +100K car that's dirty/has curbed wheels.

@rusty caterpillar
i would cut out the slot cover on the side panel (borrow a flex, quicker and cleaner), mount the aio on top area,
get an Arctic P12/14 (if possible CO, has BB) mounted below for intake.
if you get the front open for flow, set the rad (side) to exhaust, instead of intake.

one reason i will probably switch to this case, as it makes no difference if use air or water for the gpu..
what i lose from one fan less, i gain from 3 more being now 140 instead of 120

View attachment 358319
Click to expand...
the only things I like about this case is the hinges on the side panel and I think got more clearance for the GPU power cables than my Lian Li Dynamic XL.
The bad thing - they copied the Lian Li grill type which are bad, price is to high. Lian Li EVO XL maybe even higher price.
You can Ignore the Bozo in the video keep saying is made in China as if the rest of the cases are not made there.
On my case I have to remove top panel and than lift the side panel to have access into the case :D- very silly.
My 1080Ti width is 12.5 cm. If I'll upgrade to another GPU is very likely will be around 13.5-13.9CM width which means I will have only 2 cm left between GPU and side glass panel, so I have buy a 90 angle power cable, cause riser is not an option. Seasonic for example doesn't provide in the box such cables you have to buy it separately.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top