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External loop pump.

Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
5,941 (0.97/day)
Location
Watauga, Texas
System Name Univac SLI Edition
Processor Intel Xeon 1650 V3 @ 4.2GHz
Motherboard eVGA X99 FTW K
Cooling EK Supremacy EVO, Swiftech MCP50x, Alphacool NeXXos UT60 360, Black Ice GTX 360
Memory 2x16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000MHz
Video Card(s) Nvidia Titan X Tri-SLI w/ EK Blocks
Storage HyperX Predator 240GB PCI-E, Samsung 850 Pro 512GB
Display(s) Dell UltraSharp 34" Ultra-Wide (U3415W) / (Samsung 48" Curved 4k)
Case Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic Edition
Audio Device(s) Sound Blaster Z
Power Supply Thermaltake 1350watt Toughpower Modular
Mouse Logitech G502
Keyboard CODE 10 keyless MX Clears
Software Windows 10 Pro
I'm in the slow process of making an external water cooling loop that's "non traditional" of sorts. Basically, I'm doing a short rigid cooling loop that will involve CPU and multiple GPUs (more than likely just two though) connected by a water bridge. I have everything picked out, some stuff ordered, others waiting for my lazy butt to order, but the one thing I keep going around on is the pump. I don't want 12v as I won't be having any power cables coming out of my PC. Now I have http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BJK3QQ/?tag=tec06d-20 this pump already but curious if anybody has any better ideas to toss my way. In the aquatic world and fountain/waterfall/pond world there are a plethora of options that I could be looking around for days. I'm sure somebody here has done this sort of thing or knows somebody in person or online that might have better ideas. I intend on using regular 1/2" tubing for the outside loop for ease of use and my laziness and will probably use my res from my previous loop.

The rad I will be using is the extra OP Watercool rad, possibly two when my CPU gets upgraded. Fans and airflow are already taken care of. I don't need preaching of practicality or real world performance and cost isn't that big of a deal since I'm doing this lazily over time. I really don't need water but it's just a project I want to do and I miss having a custom loop.

I'm open to thoughtful ideas on pump and res as those aren't 100% set in stone, or other whacky ideas that might be better than the huge Watercool rad. Yes, I've looked at those water chillers too, and I've already got phase change out of my system. (My single stage is broke from a major UPS disaster)

Edit: I put this under modding and electronics due to the nature of asking about a pump, but have no qualms with the thread being moved to overclocking and cooling if that's where it needs to go.
 
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Interesting.
 
I normally don't like Linus Tech Tips, but this series might be of interest to you.
Yea I've seen it. The way they did that was completely ignorant IMO, and a complete waste of money considering they had to tear it all down and move. Definitely not what I'm doing.
 
A question, what kind of rad are you using? a MO-RA 3? Wondering because i use one in my personal system, with 2 EK 290X bloks, a XSPC raystorm CPU block, A EX PWM block for the MOBO, 4 QDC pairs and manny 45 degree and 90 degree bends. A single MCPP35X is the only pump, and it sits inside the case.

What is the goals for the setup? silence with OC performance or jsut unstoppable performance?
 
I've thought about getting a copper car radiator and just putting it outside. If you can prevent corrosion (dexcool?) you might be able to do a giant aluminum radiator for really cheap.
 
A lot of places sell 110V pumps. Here are some for reference.... http://www.performance-pcs.com/pumps/shopby/pump-voltage--110-vac/
Also you may want to look at pet stores to see if you might be able to find a better deal.

Better to go with a solar heating circulator pump- they're built to run on 12DC, have long duty cycles, compatible with water cooling components, and fairly cheap

Here's a nice one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OOE8JVK/?tag=tec06d-20

EDIT- a note on 12V ... you can run on a power brick or even an old psu so no need to go with 110V
 
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I've thought about getting a copper car radiator and just putting it outside. If you can prevent corrosion (dexcool?) you might be able to do a giant aluminum radiator for really cheap.
I always though of doing that too. I mean a few pumps, few 200mm fans and never moving your desktop would work OC wonders.
 
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Modding an old PSU to use as a 12v source is a good DIY way to power it up. If you don't have an old PSU, a Meanwell 12v PSU (or similar) would probably be pretty ideal for something external. Might be able to get away with just a wall wart too.

I almost hate to have the 5v and 3.3v just sitting there doing nothing.

I always though of doing that too. I mean a few pumps, few 200mm fans and never moving your desktop would work OC wonders.
I was wondering if something that size could be run passively. Extra cooling when it rains too. :p
 
A question, what kind of rad are you using? a MO-RA 3? Wondering because i use one in my personal system, with 2 EK 290X bloks, a XSPC raystorm CPU block, A EX PWM block for the MOBO, 4 QDC pairs and manny 45 degree and 90 degree bends. A single MCPP35X is the only pump, and it sits inside the case.

What is the goals for the setup? silence with OC performance or jsut unstoppable performance?
Yes, a Watercool RA3, probably the 9x140 one or 4x180 one (or two idk yet). It will not have PC fans on it but instead a Stanley blower or a separate AC line going to the closet (depends on what landlord lets me do but he's super chill and is letting me run ethernet in the walls). The goal is silent operation by having the rad in what will soon become my server closet. The closet is less than 10ft away. Until I get this done sometime in Q2-Q3ish (whenever I build my racks, drop the cables, and modify the closet) I will have the rad wall mounted with clearance for cool factor.

Another goal is for ease of cleanup/leak testing. Having only 3 blocks inside my rig with a super simple line setup and having the rest external to me screams a lot easier than my previous loops with everything inside my case.

I've thought about getting a copper car radiator and just putting it outside. If you can prevent corrosion (dexcool?) you might be able to do a giant aluminum radiator for really cheap.
I'd rather not have a massive mix in metals in my loop. Last time I did that it was a nightmare. If I was going to put a rad outside I have a feeling Texas summers might give me negative performance.

A lot of places sell 110V pumps. Here are some for reference.... http://www.performance-pcs.com/pumps/shopby/pump-voltage--110-vac/
Also you may want to look at pet stores to see if you might be able to find a better deal.
The problem with what they sell is there has only been one in stock for over a year and the one they have in stock cost 3x as much as the current pump I have. The pump I have is 700GPH, so not much less than what they offer for 185 bucks. That pump also has an inlet and outlet that's pretty big too, so no real difference there either. Another reason I bought my current pump is it's super easy to to replace the only moving part.

Better to go with a solar heating circulator pump- they're built to run on 12DC, have long duty cycles, compatible with water cooling components, and fairly cheap

Here's a nice one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OOE8JVK/?tag=tec06d-20

EDIT- a note on 12V ... you can run on a power brick or even an old psu so no need to go with 110V

Modding an old PSU to use as a 12v source is a good DIY way to power it up. If you don't have an old PSU, a Meanwell 12v PSU (or similar) would probably be pretty ideal for something external. Might be able to get away with just a wall wart too.

I almost hate to have the 5v and 3.3v just sitting there doing nothing.


I was wondering if something that size could be run passively. Extra cooling when it rains too. :p
My issue with 12v and modding a PSU ect ect is now I'm adding extra parts when I want to have something relatively low key and can just plug into the wall. If I was going to do 12v I could just simply get a typical large pump to put in my loop but now I'm adding extra parts inside the case that I wanted to avoid. Since my Xbox and N64 are going into my living room the pump/res setup will go on my second tier on my desk while the rad goes on the wall and having a PSU sit there with cables is a bit ugly. In the end I might wind up doing 12v if I can't find something that I particularly like but for now I'm trying to concentrate on 110V to just plug into the wall for simplicity.

Thanks for all the replies guys, I appreciate it.
 
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The problem with what they sell is there has only been one in stock for over a year and the one they have in stock cost 3x as much as the current pump I have. The pump I have is 700GPH, so not much less than what they offer for 185 bucks. That pump also has an inlet and outlet that's pretty big too, so no real difference there either. Another reason I bought my current pump is it's super easy to to replace the only moving part.

Well then I say use what you have. 700GPH is more than sufficient.
 
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I would get some quick disconnectors for the hoses to and from the radiator, makes it much simpler to move around. I am using Koolance QD3 ones myself.

Putting the pump outside the case CAN make the hole settup a bit quieter. But unless you are as fuzzy about noise as i am (i find all fans over 600 rpm to be audible and verging on noisy, and cant stand the sound from a hard drive spinning) you will not have a problem with a MCP 35X or similar PWM pump, if you actually have the same standards as i have then take a look at the PWM controlled D5 from aquacumputer (as it actually follow Intel PWM specs, and will pump at 20% duty cycle, unlike the other D5 PWM pumps). Also, get a Shoggy Sandwich
 
I would get some quick disconnectors for the hoses to and from the radiator, makes it much simpler to move around. I am using Koolance QD3 ones myself.

Putting the pump outside the case CAN make the hole settup a bit quieter. But unless you are as fuzzy about noise as i am (i find all fans over 600 rpm to be audible and verging on noisy, and cant stand the sound from a hard drive spinning) you will not have a problem with a MCP 35X or similar PWM pump, if you actually have the same standards as i have then take a look at the PWM controlled D5 from aquacumputer (as it actually follow Intel PWM specs, and will pump at 20% duty cycle, unlike the other D5 PWM pumps). Also, get a Shoggy Sandwich
I have 2000RPM Noctua iPPC fans in my case, noise isn't that much of a concern but once everything is under water those will have RPMs reduced to 900. I also use beefy cans with an amp so when I'm actually gaming I don't hear jack around me. I didn't hear a wreck that happened at the stop sign outside my PC room window :p

I will be using QDC on the rad and lines leading outside of my case. There's no way I couldn't unless I wanted to be very stupid. BTW are they really no drip? Never used them before.

The pump outside of the case is my decision for cleanliness and less clutter inside the case itself, as making it easier to do rigid lines in a compact cluster near the rear of my case (I've never done rigid before so want my first to be easier than a full setup). Wanting a 110v pump makes it so I don't have power lines coming out of the case or using a PSU/other adapter to power the pump. The pump I linked in the OP I already have due to how easy it is to fix if it actually does go down. I posted just to see if anybody had any other suggestions. If I did an internal pump more than likely I'd get the Swiftech Monsoon or whatever it's called with the dual MCP35x and bay rad.

Honestly to get this going easier I might get the pump/res combo and do an external rad only to get a feel of how I want to do this and give me time to figure out if I want to route the loop to my server closet (and gives me time to situate my server closet as I haven't started on that project yet. Only ran Cat6 so far).

This isn't a do it now project by any means. Just soaking in suggestions and passing the time by for Pascal/whatever AMD releases as I refuse to buy blocks for the Titans after getting AIO setups. That'd be a huge waste of money on yesteryear tech IMO (especially being this close).

Today while at work and window shopping for options having a chiller is a 4/10 option for me again. I still don't know if that option is what I want to do because if I depend on the cooling capabilities it'd be hard to explain to Quakecon staff why I have or need an extra plug for the chiller.

+1 to Shoggy, that's already on the list.
 
The QD3 is Almost no drip. there is sometimes a small droplet in the female mart, but its so small that you do not need anything to take it up, have to pairs inside my case (one between the CPU block and GPU blocs and one between the GPU and res. the predecessor VL3N have been tested here, and the new ones are as good.

I use flexible tubing, it makes it possible to take out the GPUs or CPU block or drain the Radiator without emptying the loop. with some forethought you can make the system so that you can remove the CPU block OR GPU blocks and still cool the other with the water setup.
 
Alright so this project has been put on hold until I have the hardware I want to cool in place and the case I want to do it in. I just ordered a Pro M Acrylic Edition that I'm going to do traditional cooling in for now until I have Pascal in my hand and water blocks for them. By traditional I mean an internal 360 NeXXos and Swifty MCP50x with some form of EK block on the CPU. I haven't decided yet. I just don't know if I want a custom laser etched block, acetal, nickel, or GOLLLLLLLLLD. I know the relative performance difference and mixing metals, the deciding factor is purely aesthetics.
 
After some measuring and checking for sizes online, I believe I goofed and got a rad too big haha.
 
what rad did you get? The 140 mm MORA?
 
Like I said in my other post the big project was put on hold until I have my new cards which won't happen soon but I still wanted water so I got an Alphacool NeXXos UT60 360. The case I got was the Enthoo Pro M Acrylic and after measuring I decided to start modding before I get it because it's too thick.

After doing some measurements it'll be tight but I think it'll fit. Might have to run tubing a little funny but it'll be all internal for the time being.

Edit 1-26
Aha, finally got the damn rad after a long wait. Loop is going but I rushed it together so not very happy with final result. I also won't be buying Alphacool rads again.
 
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