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Ghetto Mods


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This was very popular back in the day where I live. Piping -25C straight into the computer. I even know of a guy who opened a permanent hole in the wall for this specific purpose.

That is stuff that belongs to http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forum.php lol

Any OG old enough remembers Xtremesystems - people build their own TEC installations - big time things or their own 2 stage or even 3 stage compressors for sick temperatures.

But Tec's now are useless... Only purpose would be a water chiller. CPU's are too dense now anyway to have it properly cooled by a TEC. You need over 500 watts of TEC cooling and a set of radiators enough to dissipate over 1000W of cooling.

A chiller hooked onto water will still work.
 
That is stuff that belongs to http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forum.php lol

Any OG old enough remembers Xtremesystems - people build their own TEC installations - big time things or their own 2 stage or even 3 stage compressors for sick temperatures.

But Tec's now are useless... Only purpose would be a water chiller. CPU's are too dense now anyway to have it properly cooled by a TEC. You need over 500 watts of TEC cooling and a set of radiators enough to dissipate over 1000W of cooling.

A chiller hooked onto water will still work.
I've got a ~30W camping fridge/freezer and a dumb idea of sticking a radiator in it. I cant keep the lid closed to make it worthwhile, but i could have some cold water with a rad, if nothing else.
 
Thats likely a TEC - and not enough at all to even chill your water.

You need in the hundreds of watts of a TEC to even come close to chilling a few degrees.

A good tec for your 200W CPU should be around 500W - and that's continuous power provided to it. And you need cooling to take away the 500W + 200W + additional heat off your OC.
 
Thats likely a TEC - and not enough at all to even chill your water.

You need in the hundreds of watts of a TEC to even come close to chilling a few degrees.

A good tec for your 200W CPU should be around 500W - and that's continuous power provided to it. And you need cooling to take away the 500W + 200W + additional heat off your OC.
Ah but if the water is chilled in advance, then i can keep drinks in there AND a radiator!
 
Not sure if this can be called Ghetto mode. But i spend some time with a friend and his 3D printer. I needed some better direct airflow to the mini-itx system.
After i replaced my RTX A2000 that had a blower fan so that blow the hot air out of the case. Now whit the gigabyte RTX 4060 low profile gpu. That is 115 watt of heat dumped right in the case and the poor CPU fan and cooler now suck all of the how air from the GPU and that had a negative effect on CPU temp. So i made this, to redirect some airflow to the CPU cooler, to give it some fresh cooler air.

This is what came out of the 3d printing and desingning.
PXL_20230923_162542306.MP.jpg

PXL_20230923_162530247.MP.jpg
 
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Banana stand to headphone stand.

Found a cheap banana stand at a thrift store for $1.75, bent the hook flat, and added heat-shrink tubing to it.
 
the problem of today design is they try to squeeze everything in one package, this router has little room so i can't put normal heatsink, luckily i have old watch back cover. i know it's not aluminum, it's stainess steel just why not
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the problem of today design is they try to squeeze everything in one package, this router has little room so i can't put normal heatsink, luckily i have old watch back cover. i know it's not aluminum, it's stainess steel just why not
View attachment 315671

Try one of these, it might actually help:

Screenshot 2023-09-30 115555.png
 
Ram cooling:
80mm Noctua Fan for DDR5 2X16GB 6200MT/s 30cl 38-38-28-68 / 2100 FLCK (Buildzoid's easy timings for Ryzen 7000 series)

Max RAM temps when gaming (1440p/ 240z) 43/44c. Stable / great performance :)

Improvement with w/ 80mm fan is (-) 6-7c Actually think it looks alright..

PC w 80mm Noctua Fan.jpg
PC w 80mm Noctua Fan1.jpg
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Found some use for an used breakable slot cover.

b3mjTBC.jpg
 
the problem with blower style, the rail covering 1/3 of the opening. imagine, just pretend I have cut it. the card had a hot spot of 110 C so i have since returned it for repasting.

tu102 blower.gif
 
the problem with blower style, the rail covering 1/3 of the opening. imagine, just pretend I have cut it. the card had a hot spot of 110 C so i have since returned it for repasting.

View attachment 317579
That means the motherboard isn't installed correctly, you need to loosen the screws and shift it up 1-2mm before tightening again

usually they're designed to be fine with the rails in the path, as long as they're in correctly - and those almost covered DP ports imply it's not
 
use better heatsink, now i'm using bicycle bell as heatsink just the size is pretty room eater so i need to cut the body
btw ignore the antenna cable
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use better heatsink, now i'm using bicycle bell as heatsink just the size is pretty room eater so i need to cut the body
btw ignore the antenna cable
Why not just buy a heatsink if you had to do that much work anyway?
 
Why not just buy a heatsink if you had to do that much work anyway?

Why not just install a fan if you had to do that much work anyway?
 
Why not just buy a heatsink if you had to do that much work anyway?
sometimes mix and match and cutting is more interesting than buying something and just run it
 
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