GPU not working after repasting

[movais]

Hi guys, so i am not really technically advanced. I have Acer Nitro 7 AN715-51 and my CPU and GPU was heating. So I did some researched and decided to reapply the thermal paste. I did everything and rebooted my laptop, my laptop worked for 20 minutes and then it restarted. After that my HDMI stopped working and i am getting CODE43 on my driver. I tried uninstalling the driver and reinstalling. Nothing has worked so far. Anybody can help me what happened? Is my GPU toast from something i did? I was thinking if its toast, it wouldnt be reading it. Correct? Can you run some diagnostic to see what is going on.

Help me out please someone.

View attachment 239168

 

[Mussels]

You're going to have to take it apart again and double check all the connections.

Software cant fix hardware problems.

 

[chaoshusky]

Hopefully you didn't do anything to the PCB in terms of over-flexing it or applying too much force.. But if it worked for 20 minutes then stopped, that seems to imply you had poor contact. However i'm quite worried from those signs that you've bricked something. I've seen CODE43 before from bad connection/soldering and damaged VRM or defective chip so...it isn't looking good, but simply dis-assembling and re-assembling whilst making sure everything goes back together properly could fix it - and be careful! At this point, it really isn't looking good.. Things can be faulty and still be read - i have a PS4 Pro for spares that boots, runs one game (Ratchet and Clank reboot) even in 4K, can browse the web, but most other games and apps cause a crash with graphical corruption! Usually if a chip is dead its dead, but strange things can happen sometimes.. Edit: Also assuming CODE43 isn't to do with hybrid graphics/turning off the GPU in desktop mode? Lol.

 

[Cutechri]

>"gaming" laptop
>gets hot

What do you expect?

Repasting seldom fixes anything and causes more problems than it resolves - and so does bios/vbios flashing.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Repasting seldom fixes anything and causes more problems than it resolves - and so does bios/vbios flashing.

^^^THIS^^^

I really wish folks would stop recommending this. Or at least they stop doing it so haphazardly (that is, without listing all the risks and precautions).

Too late now but the facts are, TIM (thermal interface material, or thermal paste) doesn't suddenly go bad, nor does it periodically need replacing. In fact, it can easily last 5, 10 years or longer AS LONG AS the cured bond between the mating surfaces is not broken. And it will not break except on purpose (when upgrading the cooler, for example), or through abuse - like bouncing the computer off the floor, or by twisting the cooler too hard to see if loose, thus breaking it loose.

Yes, a fresh application of new TIM might yield a few degrees (typically no more than 5°C) improvement over very old TIM. But the facts are, "IF" your processor "needs" those 5° to keep from crossing over thermal protection thresholds, then your temps are already too high and your attention was needed elsewhere first - such as with case cooling.

Sadly, as noted above, too often, replacing the TIM causes more problems. This is because it is often done incorrectly. Common mistakes include (but are not limited to):

Failure to unplug from the wall,​

Failure to remove battery (for notebooks),​

Failure to take necessary ESD prevention precautions,​

Failure to learn what ESD is all about,​

Unnecessarily removing the processor from its socket - mishandling the processor in the process,​

Failure to thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of old TIM prior to applying new application of TIM,​

Applying too much new TIM (very common mistake),​

Failure to properly re-mount cooler,​

Failure to double and triple check cabling before closing up.​

You're going to have to take it apart again and double check all the connections.

Software cant fix hardware problems.

I also agree with this (both points). Be sure to fully understand the list of common mistakes, then take the necessary steps to prevent making them.

Fingers crossed no permanent damage was done and you can find and correct the problem without further problems.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[Shrek]

There is still the 'pump out' effect, but I agree that one shouldn't rush to re-paste.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
Did you find a youtube video to follow ?

Which paste did you use ?

 

[Deleted member 24505]

Here is a internal pic for anyone interested--

 

[Bill_Bright]

There is still the 'pump out' effect,

Pump out effect is very real - but there is too much nonsense and misinformation being spewed about it.

It is critical to remember that the purpose of TIM is to fill the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces, pushing out any insulating air that might get trapped within during the mounting process. The most efficient transfer of heat occurs with direct metal-to-metal contact so any excess TIM is actually in the way and counterproductive to that optimal heat transfer efficiency.

As mentioned above, using too much TIM is a very common mistake. Pump-out effect can actually be beneficial in that scenario as it can help remove excess TIM.

HOWEVER, it can also result in that excess TIM oozing out and getting into the socket and/or on to the board. And that is NOT good.

So again, a proper application of TIM (thin as possible while still providing complete coverage) in the first place ensures those microscopic pits and valleys are filled, but there is no excess TIM to get pumped out. The proper amount stays trapped in those pits and valleys, where it belongs.

 

[thunderingroar]

TIM (thermal interface material, or thermal paste) doesn't suddenly go bad, nor does it periodically need replacing. In fact, it can easily last 5, 10 years or longer AS LONG AS the cured bond between the mating surfaces is not broken. Yes, a fresh application of new TIM might yield a few degrees (typically no more than 5°C) improvement over very old TIM.

Ive had personal experience with awful factory applications of thermal paste when temps dropped like 15C on same RPM with new paste and i wasnt the only one with this gpu model who saw the same results. Companies applying too little paste isnt as uncommon as you migh think

But the facts are, "IF" your processor "needs" those 5° to keep from crossing over thermal protection thresholds, then your temps are already too high and your attention was needed elsewhere first - such as with case cooling.

Hes talking about a laptop, theres not much that he can do with "case cooling". Also i dont get the point of general over-dramatization of thermal repaste, its one of the easiest and relatively safe things to do on a PC, slightly less so on your laptop.

Kinda funny how a person asked for help with his laptop, 1 guy pretty much made fun of him because he should expect it to run hot (even if he has ~50W mobile GTX 1650???) and other guy criticized him for trying to fix it lol

 

[Bill_Bright]

Companies applying too little paste isnt as uncommon as you migh think

Too "little" paste? Nah! That is not common at all since most companies use pads. And those that do use actual paste typically automate the process.

Are there exceptions? Of course! But anecdotal exceptions don't make the rule.

Also, in those scenarios you are trying to use to justify your case, where TIM was improperly applied at the factory, heat problems would appear immediately - not long after the system had been working fine. That's a major distinction.

Hes talking about a laptop, theres not much that he can do with "case cooling".

True, but heat trapping dust is still an issue. So is a failing fan. Just using a hard flat surface or cooling pad can make a difference. The point is, if 5°C moves you out of thermal protection zones, you are too close to begin with.

its one of the easiest and relatively safe things to do on a PC

Easy? Sure - "IF" you know what you are doing. I have a shop - you would be amazed at how many do-it-yourselfers do it wrong - making matters worse.

Safe? Not even! Sure, you are not going to get electrocuted. But you could zap a ESD sensitive device, get TIM where it doesn't belong. Knock a cable loose, use too much TIM, and more. Heck, some have even bent pins and damaged pads! Why? Because they pulled the processor! Why? Who knows? Probably because some wannabe tech told them to reseat the processor and/or look for bent pins.

And note I never said replacing the TIM was never required. My point was, I wish folks would not recommending it "haphazardly... ...without listing all the risks and precautions".

 

[Nike_486DX]

Hi guys, so i am not really technically advanced. I have Acer Nitro 7 AN715-51 and my CPU and GPU was heating. So I did some researched and decided to reapply the thermal paste. I did everything and rebooted my laptop, my laptop worked for 20 minutes and then it restarted. After that my HDMI stopped working and i am getting CODE43 on my driver. I tried uninstalling the driver and reinstalling. Nothing has worked so far. Anybody can help me what happened? Is my GPU toast from something i did? I was thinking if its toast, it wouldnt be reading it. Correct? Can you run some diagnostic to see what is going on.

Help me out please someone.

View attachment 239168

afaik there is one important factor that most ppl dont follow, and that is to properly remove and then reattach the heatsink assembly. Especially in those "gaming" notebooks, be it an asus rog scar, hp omen, lenovo legion, acer nitro etc, i had actually worked on many of these, if you dont follow the cross pattern and apply too much torque while installing the heatsink back - error 43 and damaged gpu die (or sometimes even cpu die, its smaller compared to a full fat gpu like RTX 3070 but some folks manage to destroy it as well), is what you get.

 

[Assimilator]

Also i dont get the point of general over-dramatization of thermal repaste, its one of the easiest and relatively safe things to do on a PC, slightly less so on your laptop.

And yet here we are, in a thread started by someone who managed to fuck it up so badly that their laptop GPU no longer works.

 

[Mussels]

I'm going to argue that repasting is in fact a good idea in any situation that involves overheating - but if you do it, you go in knowing you can kill the entire system with a mistake, and void your warranty.

Why is it a good idea?
Because the paste itself isn't the only problem you can find. Loose or missing thermal pads, jammed fans, animal hair, the occasional large over-sized australian insect.

Why is it a bad idea?
Because if you aren't careful, you can cause any of those problems. If you're lucky you can simply open it and try again, find the mistake and fix it.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I'm going to argue that repasting is in fact a good idea in any situation that involves overheating - but if you do it, you go in knowing you can kill the entire system with a mistake, and void your warranty.

I was about to argue with you until you added the following,

Why is it a good idea?
Because the paste itself isn't the only problem you can find. Loose or missing thermal pads, jammed fans, animal hair, the occasional large over-sized australian insect.

Most people who repaste, don't just and ONLY repaste. While in there, they make sure the heatsink is clean of heat trapping dust, fans are functioning, and I don't wanna know what you mean by over-sized Australian insects. They also tend to do a little cable management and other things that can, when added up, amount to some significant cooling gains.

I am not in full agreement with your "any situation" involving overheating. But as I said above, I never said never.

 

[Mussels]

I was about to argue with you until you added the following,

Most people who repaste, don't just and ONLY repaste. While in there, they make sure the heatsink is clean of heat trapping dust, fans are functioning, and I don't wanna know what you mean by over-sized Australian insects. They also tend to do a little cable management and other things that can, when added up, amount to some significant cooling gains.

I am not in full agreement with your "any situation" involving overheating. As I said above, I never said never.

Well, if it's under warranty you do that.

It's a good idea if you're out of warranty - if you accept the risks.
(or pay someone to do it for you)

 

[Ruru]

Repasting is totally safe when you know what you're doing. Personally I've put liquid metal on both of my laptops and no problems here because I have experience of applying that before.

 

[movais]

I appreciate all your comments regarding what i should and i should not have done. But the fact is its already done and i cant change it. I was just trying to get help in regards with if i should get a new laptop or is there anyway i can fix it.

Just an fyi, this wasnt my first time putting paste. I have done it multiple times without any problems. Not sure what happened this time.

I am not that tech expert that i can take everything apart and put it back. I took it to my local computer, but they werent helpful with even pointing out what exactly happened.

afaik there is one important factor that most ppl dont follow, and that is to properly remove and then reattach the heatsink assembly. Especially in those "gaming" notebooks, be it an asus rog scar, hp omen, lenovo legion, acer nitro etc, i had actually worked on many of these, if you dont follow the cross pattern and apply too much torque while installing the heatsink back - error 43 and damaged gpu die (or sometimes even cpu die, its smaller compared to a full fat gpu like RTX 3070 but some folks manage to destroy it as well), is what you get.

I tried redoing the heatsink multiple times. Nothing is working unfortunately.

Hi,
Did you find a youtube video to follow ?

Which paste did you use ?

the videos i found doesnt really help in this regard, just mostly talking about reinstalling softwares

I used

Noctua NT-H2 3.5g​

Does anyone know how i can check if it was a short circuit? My local computer guy thinks the paste went underneath the chip and might have short circuit the GPU. I used Noctua NT-H2

 

[Shrek]

Noctua NT-H2 is not electrically conductive
NT-H2 3.5g (noctua.at)

 

[movais]

Noctua NT-H2 is not electrically conductive
NT-H2 3.5g (noctua.at)

thats what i thought. Maybe its the alcohol that squeezed inside the chip and didnt get dry?

 

[tiggywombat]

Code 43 means your GPU is faulty. Was there any problems before?

If Code 43,there's nothing you can do about it but try to repaste again and check all connections properly. If still doesn't work, run DDU and do a clean install of Nvidia drivers.

You can also disable the Nvidia GPU and use integrated graphics only

 

[movais]

Code 43 means your GPU is faulty. Was there any problems before?

If Code 43,there's nothing you can do about it but try to repaste again and check all connections properly. If still doesn't work, run DDU and do a clean install of Nvidia drivers.

You can also disable the Nvidia GPU and use integrated graphics only

it was fine before. Did the reinstall, same error.

My laptop is working fine, just cant play games lol

 

[Bill_Bright]

Maybe its the alcohol that squeezed inside the chip and didnt get dry?

Your wipe would have had to be dripping alcohol, and even then most likely would evaporate long before power was applied. I would suspect, ESD or something getting knocked loose first.

 

[freeagent]

My local computer guy thinks the paste went underneath the chip and might have short circuit the GPU

That just goes to show that you can work on computers and still have no idea what you are talking about.

 

[movais]

Your wipe would have had to be dripping alcohol, and even then most likely would evaporate long before power was applied. I would suspect, ESD or something getting knocked loose first.

how can i check that?