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How best to connect my router to the isp router...??(no pics)

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So, the new isp router/modem is in my basement, and I want to set up the current router, no longer in use, upstairs to increase wifi strength up there.
As it would pretty much be directly one floor above, I plan to run a wire(cat 7) from the isp router to the old router, a dlink ax 1800.

And tips and/or tricks to ease that process along would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks.
 
You would set the dlink ax 1800 to AP mode in the firmware creating a mesh network. Try to have a decent distance between the router areas to avoid any possible client roaming issues.

You many not need to set up your old router if you play around with the router/modem combo in a more centralized area that gives you full house coverage.
 
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If your modem is actually a router (many are not), then put your other router into AP mode.
 
Bell's "Home Hub 4000" is a modem/router combination...
 
Supposedly you'd want to create a wireless network so that your devices, i.e. wireless clients, in both "basement" and "upstairs", could communicate with each other, i.e. be on the same LAN?
Then, and as Shrek tried to point out, do use the "Home Hub 4000" as-is, but try configure the "dlink" as an AP.
Here's a link for reference https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/bas...onvert-a-wireless-router-into-an-access-point (yes, the article is "old", but so is the idea/practice).
And do mind the "2nd part" explaining some further configurations steps on both devices https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/bas...w-to-add-an-access-point-to-a-wireless-router. (Again, the article is "old", so do check the channels for frequency bands 2.4/5/6GHz, depending if your devices support/use them).
Ideally, you would use different channels (not "auto"!) for both "Home Hub 4000" and "dlink", to avoid any overlap between the two (or interference, e.g. by other AP's in the vicinity), so do check this for reference: https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/basics/wireless-basics/30182-how-to-fix-your-wireless-network-part-1
I'd also suggest to forget "mesh", as you intend to use a cable between "Home Hub 4000" and "dlink" (which is actually a better practice!)

On the other hand, if you're not trying to create a "home LAN", you could try configure the "dlink" to use PPPoE, like mentioned here:
And yes, as mentioned, the "main goal" is the avoid "double NAT", although for general web browsing, etc, it doesn't really matter. :ohwell:

Good luck!
 
Gonna read over all these over the next bit. Gonna order a new cat 7 for Amazon and then work on getting it all set up. Which is to say I'll be back once I screw it up... :D :D
 
Gonna read over all these over the next bit. Gonna order a new cat 7 for Amazon and then work on getting it all set up. Which is to say I'll be back once I screw it up... :D :D
Just a question. Why cat7? What not Cat5e or Cat6?
 
I dunno. It's like $14. for 25ft, so why not..??
Bigger better faster harder stronger, no..??
I was just curious about what guided the decision if there was a particular technical reason.
 
I was just curious about what guided the decision if there was a particular technical reason.
No, not really anything other than not wanting to skimp on the cables...
 
Usually, you'd set the modem to bridge mode, and connect a router to it.
From then on you can run your ethernet cable however you want, but for all that is holy don't run multiple routers*. If you need Wifi boosted, run proper mesh.


There are methods to get regular web traffic working fine through double nat/stacked routers, but IPv6 and port forwards will never work correctly, and you'll also break QoS - a lot of people bitching that wifi is too slow or broken on their networks, are running stacked routers and don't understand just how many automated systems that ruins.



*You can disable routing functions in many routers and turn them into a dumb AP, but unlike mesh they're going to have their own SSID and password - which scales up into more and more wifi interference, instead of all the devices being in sync to minimise that.
 
Usually, you'd set the modem to bridge mode, and connect a router to it.

Makes sense, unless he wants to connect something extra in the basement.
 
Makes sense, unless he wants to connect something extra in the basement.
No nothing like that. The dlink router was made redundant by the new modem/router from my isp, so I figured it would be an easy way to boost wifi upstairs.
 
You can disable routing functions in many routers and turn them into a dumb AP, but unlike mesh they're going to have their own SSID and password - which scales up into more and more wifi interference, instead of all the devices being in sync to minimise that.
Do dedicated AP devices (I am thinking of commercial wifi networks) work as mesh? One SSID to rule them all, and just connecting to the one with the best signal.
 
It's weird. I just ran a speed test on the laptop upstairs, and the speed was excellent. Much better than with the old router when the old router was where the home hub is now.

I'll likely still do the job above, just to say I did it.(retired with plenty of time on my hands)
 
I would be tempted to extend the fiber and have the equipment where you can see it.
 
I would be tempted to extend the fiber and have the equipment where you can see it.
Yea, we do things maybe a little backwards. We spend our time in the basement and rarely use the upstairs, which is why the modem/router is in the basement.
 
Do dedicated AP devices (I am thinking of commercial wifi networks) work as mesh? One SSID to rule them all, and just connecting to the one with the best signal.
No
(and sorry for slow replies, i went on holiday)
Using AP's with the same password and SSID will possibly bounce you between them but since you're on seperate networks any active sessions will crash out when that happens - changing from one router to another will be a different IP address and your traffic will get lost. You'd get booted from games, voice calls, etc.

Using just an AP or repeater seperates the networks and is designed to only really work for basic internet access, not incoming traffic - you would need port forwards for any incoming traffic to reach you, and since ports can only reach one device it's a major obstacle for any peer to peer technology like player hosted gaming - if you port forward from router 1 to router 2 and router 2 to Gaming PC1, no other device on the network will ever receive inbound traffic from that port - UPNP for example can't dynamically move it around as needed.

Mesh devices usually have to be the same brand and even then support is limited to specific matching products - The one downside is you usually have to buy what you need in one hit (But 3 pack budget mesh setups are cheap and good enough for anyone)

By connecting you to the closest one and being aware of each other, they can have each device use as little transmit power as possible which reduces interference, as well as keeping every device on the same subnet (IP address range) - this lets things like local file transfers, printers, chromecast, wifi camers etc etc to see each other - and changing between them is seamless with no packet loss or connection drops


If you use a wireless AP they're all independent and unless you disable the DHCP server it'll be a seperate network so while devices on each router both have internet access, they can't access each other (see examples above)
Usually what you'd do is set it up like so:

(For this example, router 1 is 192.168.1.1 and router 2 192.168.2.1)

With the normal use, you'd have those two different ranges - anything on 2.x can't communicate with 1x2 devices, but both ranges have internet.
Router 2 would have its WAN port as 192.168.1.x and LAN as 192.168.2.1 while handing out 2.x


To set it up without breaking the network:
1. Wifi name and password you want (Different SSID and channel to the first routers wifi)
2. Set a static LAN IP address for it, within the range your other router uses (192.168.1.100)
3. Disable the DHCP server (You will lose access to it's login page at this point)
4. Connect Router 2's LAN 1 to router 1's network - DO NOT USE THE WAN PORT

This sets it up as a basic network 'switch' with the wifi working, letting the original router do all the thinking, so QoS and uPNP can work correctly.
You can repeat this for every extra AP you add in, but keep in mind there's technically only three 2.4GHz channels - 1 7 and 11.
The others share with those, and 40MHz devices need to use 6 channels (1-6 or 7-11)
Since bluetooth and most cordless devices also use the 2.4GHz band, you'll find that multiple 2.4GHz AP's will absolutely screw with you - low power devices like bluetooth become line of sight, game controllers get glitchy and so on.

Personally, if I can't use mesh I'd use one central 2.4GHz location set to 20Mhz for low bandwidth devices like smart lights and legacy devices, with just 5GHz at every other AP's location (since there are more channel options, and since 5GHz has far shorter range)



(I added a lot to this after writing initially, sorry if it's not in the best logical order)
 
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