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How long can the "right" PSU last?

but it say something about how much heat it's going to emit when running under load. I just wanted to point that out. I agree with just about everything you said, but I wanted to add a little bit of clarity on this particular point.
Well, I did note the wasted energy is seen "in the form of heat". So I think we are on the same page. :)
 
I agree 100% but will go one further. A quality PSU and quality case form the foundation for a computer that will support years of "evolving" upgrades - not just total rebuilds - and that's a very good thing.

HOWEVER - because the case may be sitting in your computer room for years, aesthetics matter. For that reason, I avoid cases with fancy facades that may go "out of style" next year. I like plain, "classic but elegant", timeless cases - most recently those from Fractal Design. Plus, a plain front is so easy to keep clean compared to many cases that have all sorts of cracks and crevices, ridges and indentations to collect dust.

Thats why i go EATX compatible
 
Thats why i go EATX compatible
:eek: My back hurts just thinking about lugging a monster EATX case outside for cleaning. I have found a nice mid tower case and standard ATX board still supports more drives and more expansion cards than I will ever need while still providing lots of cooling options and still be fairly easy to lift and carry outside.

Fortunately, since I only buy filtered cases, breaking them down and lugging them outside to blast with the air compressor is no longer a frequent requirement. :)

Another thought - at least with my main computer - it sits on a shelf under my desk and the power and reset switches, audio and USB ports are on top of the case. That was a purchase requirement so I didn't have to get on my hands and knees to see to push a button or connect a USB thumb drive.

My current Fractal Design R4 is ~18 inches tall and gives me plenty of room under my desktop to see and reach those ports and support my longest thumb drive. EATX cases can easily be 3 or 4 inches taller. That would cause a problem - for me anyway.
 
I recently rebuilt my system and this makes the 5th system I've built around the same Corsair TX750w PSU. This is probably the first generation of TX750. It predates the Gold, Silver, and Bronze rating system that would come in to play years later.

I originally bough this PSU sometime in 2007/8 (?) and its powered and overclocked a Core2 system, two different Core2Q, one i5 2500k, and my current R7 2700x. During that time it's ran an HD 3870, 2x 4850, hd 5870, hd 5970, hd 7950, gtx 1060, and now my gtx 1080.

From all I can tell its still very stable and consistent. I was trying to use HWinfo to report the voltages under load but It doesn't support my mobo. I guess I'll load up the Asus Ai suite 3 later today and see if that works.
You can use an electrician multimeter and check a molex connection.

Maybe my OC efforts would go further under a new PSU?
No.

Just curious if anyone else has had this sort of lifespan from a PSU
I have PSUs with 20+ years of life still functioning. My current PSU is powering a Ryzen 2 system and has 10+ years (and works nearly 24/24). Some years ago I replaced its fan because the bearings weared out and became noisy. Current fan is an Arctic Cooling one with fluid dynamic bearings, so it will last at least 10 another years (24/24).

I will never replace my PSU unless it fries or AMD/Intel force me to do it.

PSUs have plenty of sensors inside (Over Current Protection, Over Power Protection, Short Circuit Protecion, Over Voltage Protection, Under Voltage Protection, Over Temperature Protection, Surge & Inrush Protection), so when it fails (if it fails) it won't harm anything.
 
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:eek: My back hurts just thinking about lugging a monster EATX case outside for cleaning. I have found a nice mid tower case and standard ATX board still supports more drives and more expansion cards than I will ever need while still providing lots of cooling options and still be fairly easy to lift and carry outside.

Fortunately, since I only buy filtered cases, breaking them down and lugging them outside to blast with the air compressor is no longer a frequent requirement. :)

Another thought - at least with my main computer - it sits on a shelf under my desk and the power and reset switches, audio and USB ports are on top of the case. That was a purchase requirement so I didn't have to get on my hands and knees to see to push a button or connect a USB thumb drive.

My current Fractal Design R4 is ~18 inches tall and gives me plenty of room under my desktop to see and reach those ports and support my longest thumb drive. EATX cases can easily be 3 or 4 inches taller. That would cause a problem - for me anyway.

Aerocool Xpredator Blue here
 
Gigabyte GE-P610A-C2 Bought 30 Sept 2010
Semi Dead this Month..................(R.I.P till i can post mortem it. >> and maybe Dr Frankinstein it :) ).
 
We can turn this into a Dead PSU record thread. When your PSU dies, ppst here with estimated date of purchase. Nice bit of data
 
10 yrs would be the very longest I would trust an old psu with powering any current rig with modern parts....

Maybe for a back-up rig with older parts, yea, but given the prices of new cpu's, gpu's, ram etc....I would not risk it, but that's just ME :)

I have a 6 yr old Corsair CX500 that is showing signs of dying (varying voltages, unstable fans etc), so it will most likely be headed to the scrap pile soon....
 
We can turn this into a Dead PSU record thread. When your PSU dies, ppst here with estimated date of purchase. Nice bit of data

I like this idea.
 
The only calculator worth using is the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator. This is for 3 distinct reasons.

  1. They have a full time dedicated staff researching components,
  2. The calculator is extremely flexible, providing many options - instead of guessing or padding for what they think you might have,
  3. It is the most conservative.
#3 is probably the most important. All PSU calculators pad the results a little to avoid recommending an underpowered supply. But, by far, the eXtreme Outer Vision PSU calculator is the most accurate because it is so flexible with so many input and utilization options.

With that in mind, I came in no where near 650W. I topped out at 458W with a recommended supply of 508W. You have not included your full specs so I guessed and added my own padding by saying you run at 100% CPU utilization, have 4 x 140mm fans, 2 x 8GB RAM, and I entered 16 hours per day for utilization and gaming.

So I don't know how you came up with 650W - 670W.

Yeah, not really true. But buying too big is still not the best idea as PSUs (even 80 PLUS PSUs) tend to be most efficient when running ~50% loads. When under utilized, they are least efficient, but that does not affect longevity.

Running at 90-100% is not bad, but can affect longevity because the supply will be subject to higher temps for longer periods of time. While those temps should not be excessive, it is still long term exposure to higher temps that might increase aging.

Another downside to running at 90 - 100% for long durations is that likely will cause the fan to run faster increasing wear on the bearings and more importantly (to me, at least) is increased fan noise. And I hate fan noise.

I used this calculator and it recommended a 1,600W PSU for my rig.

I am running an 850W Seasonic X Series and the fan barely spins under load.

https://outervision.com/b/WK14nI

My Power costs run $0.07/Kwh
 
I used this calculator and it recommended a 1,600W PSU for my rig.
That link says 1031W, not 1600. Don't go by the advertised suggested EVGA. They have to make money to support the site and research some how. Go by the actual results as seen in your link. I just moved your CPU utilization to 90% and Computer utilization to 8 hours per day and the wattage came down to 828W with 878W recommended. But the same 1600W Supernova comes up in the ad recommended. So again, just go by the actual results.

The fact you are using a 850W supply simply suggests your CPU and GPU are never maxed out at the same time. That's normal but calculators cannot assume that will never happen. They have to assume 100% disk and RAM utilization might happen, along with maximum CPU and GPU, all while the fans are spinning at full speed too. It would be very bad publicity if they recommended too small of a supply.

But the fact is, even if we do our own homework and research all the components on our own, we also have to assume there might be a moment when all devices pull maximum power. So frankly, you are risking a sudden shutdown or reboot with that supply now.
 
All blanket statements are wrong.

Maybe. Depends on the fan and how it is controlled. If it is already spinning full speed at 70% load, it is not going to spin faster (thus louder) at 90% load. And of course, there are passively cooled PSUs too.

Maybe. 90% percent efficiency is 90% efficiency. Period. If your computer demands 300W, and your supply is rated at 90%, that supply will pull from the wall 333W and waste the same amount of energy (in the form of heat) regardless if the supply is a 500W supply @ 2/3 load or 1000W supply at 1/3 load. It is the exact same 33W of wasted energy.

Maybe. 80 PLUS white, for example is rated at 80% efficiency whether running at 20%, 50% or 100% loads.

As for greater power bills, you are talking cents per year! A Gold rated supply is rated at 90% efficiency with 50% load and 87% efficiency at 100% load. That's just 3% difference!

That means if your computer demands 300W, the supplies will pull from the wall 345W for the 87% supply vs 333W for the 90% supply. 12W difference and that is only when the computer is up and running and demanding that much power. Most computers sit near idle (or even off!) more hours per day so it would take years to "pay for itself" in energy savings.

But don't take my word for it. Use this Electricity Bill Calculator yourself. Check your power company to see what they charge. For me, OPPD charges 10.06 cents/kWh. I think 10 hours per day, 365 days per year is more than fair to make the point. That works out to a budget busting $4.41 cents per year savings. Now is that Gold supply really going to pay for itself over a quality Bronze any time soon? Nope.

Oh? Says what? With two PSUs running at identical efficiencies (or even 5% different efficiencies) what says the one running at 80% loads will be less stable and produce more noise than the PSU running at 60%? I would like to see your source for that.

Even a PSU running at 100% of its rated load "should" be totally stable with total noise and ripple values properly suppressed to within specified tolerances. The problem there is, of course, there is no wiggle room left. So I'll give you that with 100% loads. But that's not what you said.

No they are not and your postulations are easily disproved.

Ok, I didn't think we needed to add "all other things being equal", "not including really crappy stuff" and "in general" to every post but, , that was the intent... I have never seen a PSU spin at 100% at across all loads... Fans tyically step up in segments, so they might be oiff at up to 50% load, step \up at 60% agaun at 70% but not 70 thruy 100% ... at least not on any IO have used. I guess its possible but I doubt you can find me an instance where two high quality models of the model series spin the same rpm over the full range in question... so until ya can support the statement over the full range, Im saying ya haven't made ya case.

2. Bollocks. Wow ...didn't think this would stump anybody or that I would have to explain what "% of rated load means". % of Rated Load = PSU Output / Rated Load ... its significance is in determining efficiency under the 80 Plus standard. No, .... A PSU rated at 90% at 50% load absolutely does not have the same efficiency at 20%, 100%, 1/3 and 2/3 loads.

First of, I am assuming you weren't talking about a 300 watt Titanium PSU at full load. So let's use Gold as it represents a more typical scenario .... first problem is the 300 watt Gold PSU is not 90% but 87% efficient at 100% load. A Gold rated PSU needs to have 87% at 20% load, will peak at 90% efficiency at 50% load and return to 87% at 100% load. Therefore it would draw 333 watts only if it was a 600 watt PSU.

Lets do the math ... For calcs with *, the % is iterpolated.

300 watt Gold PSU = 87.0% efficiency at 100% load ... To put out 300 watts, it pulls 344.83 watts from the wall = 44.83 watts wasted as heat
500 watt Gold PSU = 89.4% efficiency at 60% load ... To put out 300 watts, it pulls 335.57 watts from the wall = 35.57 watts wasted as heat *
600 watt Gold PSU = 90.0% efficiency at 50% load ... To put out 300 watts, it pulls 333.33 watts from the wall = 33.33 watts wasted as heat
1000 watt Gold PSU = 88.0% efficiency at 30% load ... To put out 300 watts, it pulls 340.91 watts from the wall = 40.91 watts wasted as heat *
1500 watt Gold PSU = 87.0% efficiency at 20% load ... To put out 300 watts, it pulls 344.83 watts from the wall = 44.83 watts wasted as heat

So here's another "No". Your assertion that "It is the exact same 33W of wasted energy. " is blatantly false. Statement 2 holds as true

3. You understood from above issue that we were talking about PSU sizes, but for reasons I don't quite understand, for power cost you went off tangent and mixed in 80 plus ratings Let's call this subject 3.A. The argument that "Now is that Gold supply really going to pay for itself over a quality Bronze any time soon ?" is non responsive. The cost difference between Bronze and Gold is not relevant when we are talking about Gold PSUs of different sizes and % load ? But let's call\ this issue 3.B

3.a. First I thing we have to define the original statement "The higher the % of rated, the less efficiency and the greater your power bill. The extra cost to go bigger ***can*** pay for itself with power savings. "

600 watt Gold PSU = 90% efficiency at 50% load ... To put out 300 watts, it pulls 333.33 watts from the wall = 33.33 watts unnecessarily purchased
300 watt Gold PSU = 87% efficiency at 100% load ... To put out 300 watts, it pulls 344.83 watts from the wall = 44.83 watts unnecessarily purchased

Note that I did not say "***will*** pay for itself with power savings. (and this is true between Gold and Bronze as well as % of rated load). Many factors contribute to whether it will or it won't. These include:

a) What country you live in (Europe costs are as much as twice that of highest US costs
b) Where you live with respect to urban, suburban or rural areas
c) Proximity to inexpensive power (hydro) versus fossil fuels
d) Distance from plant to delivery point (utilities "lease" power lines from transmission line owners (can be $0.11 per kw)
cost of electricity (regionally dependent)
e) Hours per day ... miners have multiple high power systems running 24/7.
f) Power draw of system
g) How long you keep the system, didn't you say cheap crappy PSUs can last 10 years ?
h) Sales, rebates and promotions

For you positions to be valid, both the "% of load one" (3.A) and the "80 Plus rating one" (3.B) there most be no circumstance where it can't be true. This as we will see below is easily done. However, the 3% difference you alleged for Bronze versus Gold is an obvious misrepresentation. The appropriate difference is 5%.

I spent a good part of my life running a municipal power utility which included supervising the power plant operations, distribution system, and customer billing. The math is simple so no need for a calculator. I'll use your chosen example with regard to usage .... but, as the word ***can*** includes various possibilities, and avoiding extremes such as including 24/7 usage at max power miners , I'll use some more realistic numbers where appropriate:

a) System Size: 300 watts seems a bit weak for an enthusiast system, I'll use my own .... typically it pulls 688 watts from the wall and has a 1250 watt PSU
b) I'll use your 10 hours per day
c) You used 10.6 cents per kw, I pay $0.24 ... again, that's why I said "can", not "will"
d) You said "I have seen budget, no-name generic PSUs last 10 years" , so we'll use your 10 years

So let's do the math ...

- My box pulls 688 watts from the wall .... which @ 90% ~ 619 watts of output .... which in turn @ 87% ~ 712 watts from wall. 712 - 688 = 24 watts

-My 24 watts x your 10 hours x 365 / 1000 ... That's 87.6 Kw-hrs per year
-My 24 cents per kw hour 87.6 kw-hrs = $21 a year

All costs per newegg

Seasonic Prime Gold1300 = $139 ($20 rebate)
Seasonic Prime Gold 650 = $107

That $32 is still a lot less than $84 I pay at 40% of your usage. Even at your low cost for power and tiny load, you'd be making a profit after 7.3 years. However it clearly **can ** pay for itself because your personal situation does not represent the entirety ofof the civilized world or even the US. Everyone does not have your low power costs, I pay 24 cents per kw/ hr, those in other countries pay almost twice that ... and not everyone uses a 300 watt systems, safe to say the majority of this audience does not. With an investment of $32 and a return of $21 per year that's a payback period of just 1.5 years which certainly qualifies as "soon". Your assertion that it can not be done has therefore been disproved. Statement 3.A holds as true


3. B Now lets try the Bronze / Gold claim....

- Box pulls 688 watts from the wall .... Gold @ 90% ~ 619 watts of output close enuff to 50% ~ 625 watts .... which in turn @ 85% ~ 728 watts from wall ... 728 - 688 = 40 watts ... do the math and that's $350 out of my pocket

We can't do Bronze to Gold as no Bronze on this line ... but we can go Gold to Titanium .... 4% difference instead of the 5% from Bronze to Gold

- Box pulls 688 watts from the wall .... Gold @ 90% ~ 619 watts of output close enuff to 50% ~ 625 watts .... which in turn @ 94% ~ 659 watts from wall ... 688 - 659 = 29 watts ... do the math and that's $254 with your usage at my costs .

Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 650 = $114 w/ $20 rebate card and 10% off
Seasonic Prime Ultra Gold 650 = $107

That's a whopping $7 ...as you can see jumping up two 80 plus levels at $7 is not really a big deal.

So a double "no" here as upping up to double the wattage or 2 steps of 80 Plus rating is clearly doable with a positive return on the investment. It won't work every time . But yes it **can** and quite often does.

But you also used Gold efficiency numbers but then said it won't pay from Bronze to Gold....that's not 3% but 5% .... Jumping from Gold to Titanium, just 4% still has payback for even at your very low wattage and less than average electric costs. Let's do the math for your example, th0 forgive me for using 325 watts instead of 300 to make the math easy

-650 watt Gold @ 50% load = 90%, w/ 325 watt load = 361.11 watts at wall
-650 watt Titanium @ 50% load = 94% w/ 325 watt load = 345.74

345.74 - 361.11 = 15.37 watts x your 10 hours per day x 365 days x $ 0.106 / 1000 = $ 5.95 per year for you
345.74 - 361.11 = 15.37 watts x your 10 hours per day x 365 days x $ 0.240 / 1000 = $13.46 per year for me

"Now is that Gold supply really going to pay for itself over a quality Bronze any time soon? Nope. "

Before going further, wanted to mention, I went to Seasonic because it's a line that I am most familiar. I didn't use Bronze to Gold as the numbers you used for the baseline were Gold not Bronze. In additoon, you misrepresented the efficiency improvement from Bronze to Gold as 3% when it was 5%. So I used Gold to Titanium to go along with the baseline % efficiency you used. Looking at Seasonic because it's the line with which I am most familiar, there is no line that exists with both bronze and gold models at same wattage, at least none on pcpartpicker

S12 has Bronze no Gold
M12 has Bronze no Gold
EVO has no Gold

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?CompareItemList=-1|9SIADZJ7EW9545^9SIADZJ7EW9545,17-151-198^17-151-198

$159.99 - 10% promo = $143.99 - $30 rebate = $113.99 for Titanium and $106.73 for Gold = $7.26

Even at your low electricity costs, a very low 325 wattage your suggested usage you'd be making a profit with Titanium over Gold after just 1.22 years ... with a 12 year warranty, I think that easily qualifies as "soon". At my costs, the payback period is 6.47 months. So your assertion that one can not "soon" get a return on investment for improving efficiency rating fails, and miserably so.

5. You are aware that the ATX standard of +/- 5% of rated voltage is a minimum. When overclocking, voltage control circuitry on all of your components has to work harder with varying voltage and increased noise. For office builds, the ATX standard of 5% is fine.... for moderate overclocking, I want < 2.5%, for extreme overclocking, I want < 1%. It's not so much what it is at the stable load as what it is during gaming where load varies. I was troubleshooting a a new build whereby the user had upgraded GFX cards and was having issues .... I measured the wattage at the wall and it was still less than is should be appropriate for PSU rating ... so was perplexed. In a job meeting at the power plant, we were having issues as various load areas were energized. I asked the design consultant about my PSU problem and he recommended that power supplies for control systems always be sized for at least 1.25 to 1.5 times the max theoretical load so that you have enough headroom foir those momentary spikes. I called vendor and asked them to send a larger PSU explaininmg that they could charge my CC and would return the smaller PSU if it solved the problem and the larger if it didn't ... whichever it was they could credit my account accordingly. Wattage "at the wall" was still less than the rating of the original (both were Corsairs VX450 and 550) . Happened again several years later with a poair of Antecs.

In recent years I have noticed that vendors tweak their voltages cause most reviewers report data at rated loads ... less usefull I think as most folks follow the 1.25 to 1.5 rule and we now often see more voltage variation at these loads. Again, it's not the steady load situation that has shown itself to be problematic, it's when load is bouncing over wide ranges, voltage regulation gets iffy. I remember an Antec TrueControl PSU that had voltage adjustments for each rail so you could calibrate your system to your own loadings. Would like to see that feature more prevalent.

As for the noise, well that's just basic stuff ... jonnyguru work for ya as a valid source ? ...using the VX450 referenced abive

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story2&reid=64

"Typically, we see ripple and noise increase their waveform as the load increases. " Im with jonny.
 
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I buy solid 'overkill' PSU's that I know will see me thru some upgrades, and I'd stuck with known makers of good, reliable PSU's. I have three PSU for my three rigs -
i7 2600K + LeadTek GTX 1080 - Corsair HX1050
i7 4770K + Palit RTX 2080 Ti Gaming Pro OC - Enermax MAX REVO 1500W
i7 3960X + 2x RX VEGA 64 - Seasonic X1250

I'd gotten these PSU's years ago and they're doing a damn fine job with my rigs, when I'd gotten them, I was told they were 'overkill' PSU's, but I didn't care about efficiency, I was more concerned about future upgrades, I wanted PSU's that were good with more than sufficient POWAH for platform and/or component upgrades.

I also have a Seasonic OEM PSU rated at 850W Bronze lying around somewhere as a spare PSU....
 
I agree with overkill PSUs but I don't find many issues with this. The PSU will deliver the wattage/amps that the PC requires, it will be a little worse for the efficiency no doubt.. As an example my homeserver runs a 750w unit, but at idle the system uses a total of 35w.. I know it's not going to be at the 90% efficiency rating by any stretch (possibly around 80% or under) but otherwise I'd have to use splitters etc for the drives in the system, which I don't really like doing.

I do try and pair up systems with a bit of head room and do aim to get the wattage about the 50% marker as that's were a lot of PSUs are at their most efficient. A good example is my 5960X and 1080 Ti, that can take 600w from the socket, so a 1200w unit is pretty much on the money... That said the unit is a Platinum unit as well, so probably better off with that :)
 
I have been using the same 750w Cooler Master PSU for 10 years now and I have no issues. It think it mostly depends how much headroom you have and luck of the draw...
 
Ok, I didn't think we needed to add "all other things being equal"

Your assertion that "It is the exact same 33W of wasted energy. " is blatantly false. Statement 2 holds as true
:roll: :kookoo:

Come on! You cannot change the scenario and use different supplies that have different efficiency ratings, which of course would yield different amounts of wasted energy, then declare you are right! That's just hogwash with you in denial and your ego refusing to admit your blanket statements are wrong.

Did you see that I said, repeatedly, "maybe"? Do you realize that maybe means sometimes it may and sometimes it may not?

The math is simple! If you have two supplies (pick a size, doesn't matter as long as they are big enough) and both are rated at 90% efficiency with 300W loads, both will pull from the wall the exact same amount, 333W. That is why your blanket statement is wrong.

Now if you want to change the scenario, as you did above, and say one supply is rated at 87% and the other at 90%, then of course, one will waste more than the other.

So yes, "All blanket statements are wrong!" Sorry if the irony of that statement flew right over your head.
 
I used this calculator and it recommended a 1,600W PSU for my rig.

I am running an 850W Seasonic X Series and the fan barely spins under load.

https://outervision.com/b/WK14nI

My Power costs run $0.07/Kwh

I use that unit as well , been one of the better psu's I've run .not to say you cant get the lemon with anything . it seems its 8 years old now [??] in its 3ed build now with out issue . some times I got to wonder ''is this thing on '' cause your not telling by the fan noise or if its spinning at all ...lol...
 
For some reason people pay pretty good amounts for used power supplies on eBay so I just sell them after 5-8 years and buy a new one. Not out of any replacement parts plan, it just happened to work out that way.
 
in the end I just go look at tare down reviews like johney guru asnd see what he got to sday on the units platform /guts / build quality /or model revision changes for the good or bad over the old one that was great . a solid all jap components unit should last 10 years with a 5 -10 year warrantee . ya kinda feel a bit safe with one like that , but still don't mean you could not get a lemon in the bunch .
too many guys build a 2000$ rig and go with a underpowered 50 buck special and then wonder why something don't do right somehow .

I think the psu is the hart and life blood of a build and should be treated as so with a best quality unit you can find / afford . and have some piece of mind when you fire it up and pound things out at full stressing loads / stability [opinion]
 
For some reason people pay pretty good amounts for used power supplies on eBay so I just sell them after 5-8 years and buy a new one. Not out of any replacement parts plan, it just happened to work out that way.

Can't say I've even done that myself.. Just keep using my PSUs I've bought unless they are pants no name models in which case they get thrown out...
 
This is the reply I was waiting for.

Let me know if you do pull it out have a look.

Took my GPU out to replace the fans and, while i was @ it, took the PSU out for "cap" inspection. I didn't see any caps like the ones in post #9 but i didn't poke around too much tbh: afraid i'd kill it while doing so.
 
I dont much technical knowledge regarding PSU's, but have a Thermaltake Litepower 450p which has been working since 2009. I used till 2017 with a Q9400 Core 2 Quad with varous graphics cards(R7 260x from 2014 till 2017). I replaced it due to needing a 8 pin pcie connector. Gifted it to a broke friend whos PSU failed a couple of years earlier. He uses the pc (E5700 dual core and gt 440) daily to stream youtube and play dota. Still going strong currently, fan spins freely with no bearing noise. I patiently await failure, and its important to note that it is a low end unit, with chinese capacitors.
 
I dont much technical knowledge regarding PSU's, but have a Thermaltake Litepower 450p which has been working since 2009. I used till 2017 with a Q9400 Core 2 Quad with varous graphics cards(R7 260x from 2014 till 2017). I replaced it due to needing a 8 pin pcie connector. Gifted it to a broke friend whos PSU failed a couple of years earlier. He uses the pc (E5700 dual core and gt 440) daily to stream youtube and play dota. Still going strong currently, fan spins freely with no bearing noise. I patiently await failure, and its important to note that it is a low end unit, with chinese capacitors.

Rarity for them.
 
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