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how to reduced memory temp in zotak 3080TI AMP Hollo black

Well... all my workhorses run 100% all the time when they're not idle. Not sure what other performance % you're expecting from a GPU to be fair, especially with high refresh being the norm for high end stuff.

And if they can't, they're shit - they are marketed for 100% perf too.

The first thing I'd look at is case temp and getting the heat out, there is no GPU designed to withstand bad airflow (or- without major perf loss, at least). But beyond that... if you have to tinker with it to get it to work right... I'd insta-RMA that crap.

Easy example, would you let your 8700K run at 100C doing rendering 24/7 ? Intel spec sheet say it can handle up to 100C

I guess gaming GPU are not designed to do rendering workload or mining, who would have thought :roll:. 96C on the VRAM is pretty common occurence on Ampere with GDDR6x memory doing mining, no surprises there.
 
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Stay on the topic.
If you wish to argue about who said what and why... Take it to PMs.
Don't disrupt the OP's thread.

Thank You and Have a Good Day
 
Easy example, would you let your 8700K run at 100C doing rendering 24/7 ? Intel spec sheet say it can handle up to 100C

I guess gaming GPU are not designed to do rendering workload or mining, who would have thought :roll:. 96C on the VRAM is pretty common occurence on Ampere with GDDR6x memory doing mining, no surprises there.

It shuts down at 100C actually. Had it happen once :) But then you are in OC territory and if not, it clocks down.

Nvidia GPUs also have thermal threaholds but they do rely on capable cooling and that line has become very thin with Ampere. But driver wise they clock down without burning themselves up so yes they do shoild and can always extract max performance while memory speed is unaffected by boost. If the card cant maintain that, its badly designed.

So youre wrong, sry.
 
heatpipes.jpg

maybe find better thermal pads?
Are those black pads considred bad?
 
Are those black pads considred bad?
as i mentioned in the post: not saying they are bad just sure, from my experience, that there are better.

in a art imitates life:
what astronaut movie was were the one character turns to the other and mention about the lowest bidder . .
i'm sure AIB product managers need to look at min specs than the best.
 
as i mentioned in the post: not saying they are bad just sure, from my experience, that there are better.

in a art imitates life:
what astronaut movie was were the one character turns to the other and mention about the lowest bidder . .
i'm sure AIB product managers need to look at min specs than the best.

Well the GDDR6x run hot (FE model reach 99C on the memory o_O), no surprise there, best option if anyone using the 3080Ti for rendering is buying the Asus Strix LC model, or sacrifice some performance and downclock memory a bit.

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Well the GDDR6x run hot (FE model reach 99C on the memory o_O), no surprise there, best option if anyone using the 3080Ti for rendering is buying the Asus Strix LC model, or sacrifice some performance and downclock memory a bit.

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i would agree with you trust worthy source.
i'm mentioning third party choices for those w/toolz and skillz brah.

on side note: zotaz is really disappointing for this gen.
 
There's no easy and effective solution. Pretty much anything will void your warranty. Simplest thing is to upgrade thermal pads for memory. Then you can remove as much shroud and back plate as you can. Some designs trap heat. I would have said to add some small heatsinks on memory from eBay, but RTX 3080 Ti has memory near core and nothing fits there.
it was mistake when i bought this one however, its good so far and i notes the memory heat to late

Undervolt? In internet has tutorials.
i cant play with it right now to risky :cry: :cry: :cry:

Okay, so I just searched for a few seconds and look what I found: From an official rep. So you might be fine with changing the paste and temps as long as you've got the original receipt that YOU got when YOU purchased it. Why the capped YOU? Well, warranty is non-transferable :( So in theory, as long as you don't break anything, even installing a custom waterblock should be fine, as long as you put it back together nicely if you ever need to RMA it. Now I'm not a 100% sure as I've never dealt with their support, maybe someone else can confirm the above?

I've also found out that the HOLO and the other 30xx cards from them aren't that great temperature wise. They also have a subreddit (who doesn't these days o_0) dedicated to Zotac products. Maybe you can find some inspiration there.

EDIT: Undervolt the card, it does help to a degree :)
but if i undervolted it will effect on efficiency of the card and that will not serve me

i have downloaded firestorm form the official site if zotac and made changes as you see in pic and so far give me good results and not effected on performance
 

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it was mistake when i bought this one however, its good so far and i notes the memory heat to late
I doubt it was. RTX 3090s in general have hot memory. In fact many high end cards have thermal issues and thus high end cards should be chosen very carefully. Due to general poor engineering, I dislike flagship cards pretty much since PCIe came out. They are just pain in the rear to deal with and depreciate painfully fast.
 
but if i undervolted it will effect on efficiency of the card and that will not serve me
No if you set undervolt smart, you will have same performance with up to 100 watt less power consumption and less heat. That mean better efficiency.
 
I doubt it was. RTX 3090s in general have hot memory. In fact many high end cards have thermal issues and thus high end cards should be chosen very carefully. Due to general poor engineering, I dislike flagship cards pretty much since PCIe came out. They are just pain in the rear to deal with and depreciate painfully fast.

Yep. My experiences with x104 Nvidia cards are structurally better than with any 100 or 110 SKU. Irrespective of case cooling.

As far as designs go, I think the line on the top end was always thinner but back in the day it was less commonplace and those who did invest, perhaps did more to keep temps down. Consumerism is moving to laziness rather than the opposite direction after all. We expect the designs to work, preferably with zero effort on our own end and regardless of how crappy we set it up. And honestly, given the marketing around all of those products, why wouldn't you expect that.
 
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Yep. My experiences with x104 Nvidia cards are structurally better than with any 100 or 110 SKU. Irrespective of case cooling.

As far as designs go, I think the line on the top end was always thinner but back in the day it was less commonplace and those who did invest, perhaps did more to keep temps down. Consumerism is moving to laziness rather than the opposite direction after all. We expect the designs to work, preferably with zero effort on our own end and regardless of how crappy we set it up. And honestly, given the marketing around all of those products, why wouldn't you expect that.
It's not laziness. I think that we certainly are far more thorough in investigating hardware than ever before. There wasn't Gamers Nexus, 1% and 0.1% lows, vBIOS investigations and so many other things in just 2012. This stuff is certainly progressing well, but we also tend to trust manufacturers that they understand their stuff and know likely more than enthusiast about what they make. Unfortunately, just like always, when there is dollar to be made, then all shit breaks lose. Perhaps OEM 1 decided that they can save money on heatsink and ramp up fan more, perhaps OEM 2 decided that hey can put more, but weaker and cheaper power phases on card and market it as improvement, perhaps OEM 3 decided to use less heat resistant solder to save some money without properly testing if that's actually wise. In case of cheaping out, lower end cards are far more tolerant to that, as they don't heat up nearly as much, they cope with lesser coolers well, they are less demanding for beefy power delivery, thus what let's say didn't work out with RTX 3090 card in terms of cheaping out, might work well on RTX 3060. But once you bought your card, you are out of money and if it's not instantly defective, then you are not able to return it (although policies differ all over the world, but most of them still screw consumer more than manufacturer). And then there are cases, when nearly identical hardware is somehow messed up by OEM so much, that you really couldn't have predicted that and now you are screwed too.
 
It's not laziness. I think that we certainly are far more thorough in investigating hardware than ever before. There wasn't Gamers Nexus, 1% and 0.1% lows, vBIOS investigations and so many other things in just 2012. This stuff is certainly progressing well, but we also tend to trust manufacturers that they understand their stuff and know likely more than enthusiast about what they make. Unfortunately, just like always, when there is dollar to be made, then all shit breaks lose. Perhaps OEM 1 decided that they can save money on heatsink and ramp up fan more, perhaps OEM 2 decided that hey can put more, but weaker and cheaper power phases on card and market it as improvement, perhaps OEM 3 decided to use less heat resistant solder to save some money without properly testing if that's actually wise. In case of cheaping out, lower end cards are far more tolerant to that, as they don't heat up nearly as much, they cope with lesser coolers well, they are less demanding for beefy power delivery, thus what let's say didn't work out with RTX 3090 card in terms of cheaping out, might work well on RTX 3060. But once you bought your card, you are out of money and if it's not instantly defective, then you are not able to return it (although policies differ all over the world, but most of them still screw consumer more than manufacturer). And then there are cases, when nearly identical hardware is somehow messed up by OEM so much, that you really couldn't have predicted that and now you are screwed too.

Oh come on. Chasing high FPS and low latency has always been a thing and it IS the hobby rather than modding the hardware or keeping temps down before worrying about cosmetics and RGB. For most, this results in slapping an AIO on something and some case fans. After doing so, regardless of ambient conditions people then feel entitled to identical and optimal performance.

The focus has shifted a lot more to software side I think. Running a bench. Sliding power targets around and installing a BIOS to brick your card.

You are correct about frame pacing focus but that only surfaced because it could be monitored on the... software side ;)
 
Hi,
Without doing much just make a custom fan curve using msi afterburner.
Use your memory temp as your setting for 50% fan speed.
 
Oh come on. Chasing high FPS and low latency has always been a thing and it IS the hobby rather than modding the hardware or keeping temps down before worrying about cosmetics and RGB. For most, this results in slapping an AIO on something and some case fans. After doing so, regardless of ambient conditions people then feel entitled to identical and optimal performance.

The focus has shifted a lot more to software side I think. Running a bench. Sliding power targets around and installing a BIOS to brick your card.
We are forgetting voltmods with potentiometer, unlocking pipelines, overclocking to the moon and buying aftermarket cooling. I remember that people did this with ATi x800 Pro cards. Except that gains back then were big and now they aren't as big. And the base card wasn't running very hot.
 
We are forgetting voltmods with potentiometer, unlocking pipelines, overclocking to the moon and buying aftermarket cooling. I remember that people did this with ATi x800 Pro cards. Except that gains back then were big and now they aren't as big. And the base card wasn't running very hot.
Well not on air at least. On LN2 that stuff makes or breaks a high score. But I have to agree. I've volt modded and tweaked several old GPU's to great effect, cards these days are locked down and semi decent.
 
Well not on air at least. On LN2 that stuff makes or breaks a high score. But I have to agree. I've volt modded and tweaked several old GPU's to great effect, cards these days are locked down and semi decent.
Even on air you could have achieved quite a bit. With volt mod and swapped cooler to ATi Silencer 5, you certainly could have achieved 20-30% overclock. Perhaps even more. This is stock ATi X800 Pro:
r420xt-scan-front-with-cooler.jpg

And this is same ATi with ATi Silencer:
installation8.jpg

installation7.jpg


From back then, so me people reported 586 MHz OC from stock 475MHz on core (23% OC) and 594 MHz memory OC from 450 MHz stock (32% OC):

That's on stock card and still without ATi Silencer. And that cooler is same stock reference cooler. You can certainly voltmod it and push it further, temperature of card with stock cooler was no more than 70C something. Let's say that lets you achieve 10-15% higher overclock. You can watercool card (although blocks were rare back then and now impossible to find, coolers from Radeon 9700 fit on X800 cards) and that should yield even more thermal headroom. There's a person, who overclocked some X800 card to 675 MHz:

Which is a massive 42% overclock already. I'm pretty certain, that on LN2, it would be possible to achieve 800 MHz overclock, which is 68% overclock. Cards these days certainly don't overclock nearly as much. On top of that if it's X800 Pro, you have a good chance of unlocking 4 more pipelines. On LN2, with all mods, X800 Pro can likely be literally 2 times faster than stock. And the crazy thing is that with all mods included, you would have paid same money for X800 Pro if you bought RTX 3070 Ti today at MSRP. It's pretty crazy how hot, poorly overclocking and expensive cards have gotten today.
 
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