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I challenge you! to help me fix this issue lol

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#76
I swear by Corsair and Thermaltake Tough Power power supplies. Personally I would go with a $100 or so Corsair.. You definitely need to replace that hunk of pot metal.. grab yourself a Xigmatek cpu cooler or something while your at it too, and more thermal paste. Use 91% alcohol and qtips to clean the old paste off the cpu and heatsink. Use about a pea sized dot in the center of the cpu and use the new heatsinks downward pressure will spread it accordingly. For future reference, look at our system specs on our posts to the left, as you will see a common trend of brands and types of hardware that we know are good or better quality. A lot of us use newegg.com, tigerdirect.com, frys, microcenter.com as a basic list of places where we find our stuff. I personally almost always use newegg, because their prices are hard to beat. These sites also offer actual user feedback reviews. You can also check out previews and reviews on a multitude of hardware right here at TPU to get a better informed decision on what to get.
 
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Hvactech

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#77
Ok wow im a little bit behind hahaha So um to try to address everyone.. thanks for all the help guys! I will have a new PSU here tomorrow and we will all be able to breathe easier knowing the real issue... And I'm pretty tech savy when it comes to working on electronics (after all I am a HVAC Technician.. lol) So I could pull out my $250 dollar multimeter and check the PSU but after reading that review on the bigger psu same brand...it's only down hill from there lmao...
I purchased a corsair 750W ATX that should do the trick!
My MSI gtx650 is kinda a beefy card I think it required like 600w or something so it that cheap psu was prob putting out like 250 lol just barely running my comp! I bet the new PSU clears up all issues...just wish I didn't fucking delete my skyrim because I thought it was corrupt X(
 

cadaveca

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#78
Ok wow im a little bit behind hahaha So um to try to address everyone.. thanks for all the help guys! I will have a new PSU here tomorrow and we will all be able to breathe easier knowing the real issue... And I'm pretty tech savy when it comes to working on electronics (after all I am a HVAC Technician.. lol) So I could pull out my $250 dollar multimeter and check the PSU but after reading that review on the bigger psu same brand...it's only down hill from there lmao...
I purchased a corsair 750W ATX that should do the trick!
My MSI gtx650 is kinda a beefy card I think it required like 600w or something so it that cheap psu was prob putting out like 250 lol just barely running my comp! I bet the new PSU clears up all issues...just wish I didn't fucking delete my skyrim because I thought it was corrupt X(
Make sure you keep your receipt so you can return the PSU when it doesn't fix the problem.

:roll:


Seriously though, that's a bit of an anemic unit. I dunno how something so small could provide 600W reliably. I believe the GTX560TI asks for 550W PSU. Corsair 750 should do the trick! ;)

I'm taking HVAC training starting real soon. I may hit you up later on with questions. :p
 
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#79
Cool man. I believe you should be fine now and I also believe you have the ability to test the psu. I myself did hvac work for awhile and I know what it entails. I also have my type 1 /type 2 commercial cfc cert card. Corsair makes some good psus. I am running a 750 tx unit in my main rig and just bought a 650 tx unit for one of my other rigs. I run Antec units in the rest of the fleet. Little by little I will replace them all with Corsair Tx units.
 

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#80
Hell yea if you guys can get into the HVAC industry IT IS BOOMING!! The work force is like 15K short across america... want to talk about job security? lol I really hope this fixes the issue because if it is some lame hard to find software issue im gonna be pissed... That's why I like the idea the one dude had about testing the psu first but it's obviously a POS lol
 

cadaveca

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#81
Yeah, that is why I decided, plus in Canada, there is year-round work, where as the vinyl siding that I do now is very much summer only.

Pays as well as welding, with 100x more work. I'm in it to win it. ;)
 
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#82
I worked for Sears as a Hvac tech for awhile but got tired of "the man". Went back to my roots (auto repair/restore/customize) and been happy every since.
 
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#83
Get a multimeter and test the 12V rail on the PSU. A multimeter is cheap and a nice tool to have around. These guys may be right on the PSU but they are blowing smoke unless you check the 12V rail.
I'm sorry, but this is the worst advice on the thread. This OP is not the sort of person who should be playing around checking voltages and currents when the PC IS ON. Are you going to pick up the medical bill or lawsuit when he zaps himself, his PSU, his mainboard, and goodness knows what else? You think this guy is making a better investment by buying a voltmeter than switching this (we all know it) shitty PSU? The OP is enthusiastic... but that does not make him an informed, experienced, enthusiast.

You call yourself Dr Death for a reason... I see :pimp:

I would advise the OP to take the PSU to someone very familiar with building PCs who can help and explain why certain choices are made. If the OP insists on doing it himself, then take the advice of multiple TPUers in this thread, buy a decent PSU. THEN read all about heatsinks and thermal grease and TIM and go fix all those heatsinks you have played with!

And good luck. Perhaps this experience will get you motivated to learn more about electronics and PC components. It's a fun thing (and useful) to master! :D
 
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#84
Normally I would agree that this type of trouble shooting is a bad idea. But its a $30 600w PSU (Diablotek 600W ATX). You need a load tester not a volt tester to tst it. But your probably right its not entirely the PSU fault but its a good place to start
Thanks but a multimeter works fine in testing the PSU.
 
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#85

Hvactech

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#86
Alright guys I installed the new PSU and my computer is finally passing the Mark test!! YAY! Only issue I can think of is the memory core temp went up to 100 degrees Celsius!!! I turned fan to 100% and it goes down to 77...what now? lol
 

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#87
Alright guys I installed the new PSU and my computer is finally passing the Mark test!! YAY! Only issue I can think of is the memory core temp went up to 100 degrees Celsius!!! I turned fan to 100% and it goes down to 77...what now? lol
So it was the PSU! well Dr death I believe you owe some of us apologies.

The card is getting hot? Hmmm what case do you have?
 

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#88
I don't think he owes anyone an apology..he just wanted to make sure I wasn't wasting my money..
And it is a thermal lake one that I got from tiger direct
 
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#89
I would imagine it's because you took the heatsink off and didn't have any new TIM and thermal tape. Your gpu mem should have stuff that looks like double sided tape on them, those have to touch the cooler.
 

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#90
Only issue I can think of is the memory core temp went up to 100 degrees Celsius
"Memory core temp" isn't something that exists. Where are you getting the temp info from? Post a screenshot please. :)
 

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#91
Thanks but a multimeter works fine in testing the PSU.
Only for seeing what voltages you kinda get. You dont catch ripple, which is just as important.
 

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#92
sry memory temp* and its on after burner
I did reapply the heat paste to the CPU but that temp is holding at like 40 degrees...
Why is my memory temp so high?
 

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#93
sry memory temp* and its on after burner
I did reapply the heat paste to the CPU but that temp is holding at like 40 degrees...
Why is my memory temp so high?
It's most likely reading the VRAM VRM temperature. When you removed the cooler, the thermal pad may have fallen off or become displaced.
 
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#94
sry memory temp* and its on after burner
I did reapply the heat paste to the CPU but that temp is holding at like 40 degrees...
Why is my memory temp so high?
This is the Answer !!

I would imagine it's because you took the heatsink off and didn't have any new TIM and thermal tape. Your gpu mem should have stuff that looks like double sided tape on them, those have to touch the cooler.
erocker said:
It's most likely reading the VRAM VRM temperature. When you removed the cooler, the thermal pad may have fallen off or become displaced.
 

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#95
it didn't have any double sided tape before hand.. and it was at like 45 degrees? just the thermal paste... and were not talking the CPU temp.. where is this memory temp reading at?
 

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#96
it didn't have any double sided tape before hand.. and it was at like 45 degrees? just the thermal paste... and were not talking the CPU temp.. where is this memory temp reading at?
If I'm not mistaken, your card should have heatsinks that are attatched to that area as the main cooler only cools the GPU. Check under the other heatsinks.
 
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#97
Yup, it should look like this. Make sure you didn't mess with the large plate that covers the vrams.



Everything I've read suggests your card should run very cool and quietly.
 

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#98
guys...I took the fan off the mother board not the graphics card... thats stock still
New issue- my PSU fan isn't running... its just sitting there stuttering..wtf!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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#99
I don't see a fan on your motherboard?



ALSO: if you bought a TX series PSU, the fan won't run at low loads, it only comes on when needed.
 

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It was added over the Chip see the X?
Is the memory supposed to be that hot?