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i7 920 and Corsair H50-1 CPU Cooler

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#1
Hi there,

I've recently installed a cooler into my system. Prior to this I was getting 50 degrees idle and up to 80+ during load on the stock fan. I'm now getting the same readings after installing this water cooler! (44 degrees on idle right now). I've not even clocked it up to 3.80 Ghz yet, it's still running at 2.67 Ghz. Was this a waste of money?? I'm using software called Real Temp v3.4 and it shows the temp of 4 cores.

My setup:

Windows 7 Home Premium (64Bit) / Intel Core i7 920 QUAD 2.67Ghz overclocked @ 3.80GHz / 12GB DDR3 (DRAM Freq 800Mhz / Triple Channel) / NVidia GeForce GTS 250 (1GB DDR3 Core 740Mhz / Shaders 1836Mhz / Memory 1000Mhz) / ASUS P6T SE version 0403 Motherboard / 650W PSU / NZXT Apollo Tower / Corsair H50-1 Hydro Series CPU Cooler
 
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#3
I just rebooted and it's given a warning saying CPU Fan is not working, yet all fans in the computer are functional. I can feel the water passing through the 2 pipes too.

I've uploaded pictures of my setup to my site. I've indicated where the fans are plugged into on the board. The rear fan sucks in air. The temperature is definitely less than before, 50 down to 42 or 43. The old 120mm stock fan was moved from the rear to the front of the case.




 
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System Name i7-PC / HTPC / iMac
Processor i7 3820 / Phenom II 940
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#4
cpu fan not working means you don't have it plugged into the "cpu fan" power pins on the board. It can't actually tell whether it's working, or even if it is a cpu fan plugged in.

is your dust catcher clogged there? or just weird fabric? I use 2 120mm fans on mine.

i7 920 D0 @3.6GHz @ 41c idle, 50-55c load
 
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#6
The paste that comes with it is apparently quite good as it cures rather quickly. I did get a 3rd party paste just incase "Arctic Silver 5 3.5g Thermal Paste". As I said the temp is down (averaging 46 degrees on idle), but it gave me a warning about the CPU fan not working, yet it is. What I could do is move that fan from the front and see if it fits onto the inner side of the radiator, drawing in air as a push-pull configuration.

See the video here:

http://www.cclonline.com/product-info.asp?product_id=39338&tid=gsearch
 
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System Name i7-PC / HTPC / iMac
Processor i7 3820 / Phenom II 940
Motherboard GIGABYTE G1.ASSASSIN2 / M3A79-T Deluxe
Cooling Corsair Hydro H100i / Scythe II (HS only)
Memory G.SKILL Trident X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600mhz / 4GB DDR2 1066 (@800) Corsair Dominator
Video Card(s) GB Radeon HD 7950s 3GB / GB Radeon HD 7950s 3GB
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Audio Device(s) HT Omega Striker 7.1 / Onboard and HDMI from ATi Card
Power Supply PC Power & Cooling 750W / 610W
Software Ubuntu / Windows 8.1 Pro / OS X / PHPStorm / Gaming
#7
but it gave me a warning about the CPU fan not working, yet it is.
cpu fan not working means you don't have it plugged into the "cpu fan" power pins on the board. It can't actually tell whether it's working, or even if it is a cpu fan plugged in.
if it is on the cpu fan power pins, it just doesn't have the necessary pin for monitoring/control.
 
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#8
I accidentally hit the power button, which turned off my PC and caused my BIOS to mess around! It couldn't find the BootMGR!!!! I removed the power and battery to reset, thank God I fixed that!

The CPU is reading 40 degrees in BIOS, I'm now in Windows and it's saying 31-35 across the 4 cores. So... it looks like it is working. Very tempremental! I just ran a test and it's now 50 degrees under load, a lot less than 80 degrees!!!! Nice so it's working now.

GPU is 40 degrees idle.

If I get problems I`ll update this thread. Cheers for the replies people.
 
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#9
Oh yeah, there are 3 possible sockets with 3 pins for the CPU Fan power. They are named CHA Fan 2 (where it is plugged into now), CHA Fan 1, PWR-Fan (the one I had it plugged into earlier).
 
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#10
Ahhh actually I should rectify this and say the PUMP power is 3 pins and there are 3 available ports on the motherboard for this. The fan itself is a 4 pin and that went onto where the old stock fan was plugged into for its power. So I couldn't have gone wrong with the 4 pin.
 
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System Name i7-PC / HTPC / iMac
Processor i7 3820 / Phenom II 940
Motherboard GIGABYTE G1.ASSASSIN2 / M3A79-T Deluxe
Cooling Corsair Hydro H100i / Scythe II (HS only)
Memory G.SKILL Trident X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600mhz / 4GB DDR2 1066 (@800) Corsair Dominator
Video Card(s) GB Radeon HD 7950s 3GB / GB Radeon HD 7950s 3GB
Storage 2x 80GB Intel X-25, 2x600gb SATA, 1x1tb 5400RPM storage /1x600GB, 3x500GB,1x160,1x120 SATA
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Case Lian Li Lancool PC-K58 / Antec 900
Audio Device(s) HT Omega Striker 7.1 / Onboard and HDMI from ATi Card
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Software Ubuntu / Windows 8.1 Pro / OS X / PHPStorm / Gaming
#11
yeah CHA means CHASSIS which is the case, and PWR is for the power supply fan. i guess some have wires going to the mobo rather than powered by itself... i have never seen it but that's what it is for.
4 wire is the cpu plug(in your case), but also sometimes just a better chassis plug. the fourth wire provides control rather than just readings.

if that truly is the only 4 wire plug, and is right next to the cpu socket... then something else is wrong i think. I don't recall having that error.

looking at your picture, the plug you have it in does not look like the right one. cpu fan plugs are normally above the cpu socket, or at least much closer.
 
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#12
Looking at the 1st picture... it says "120mm Corsair Fan Socket", that is the 4 way socket and is where the fan has been plugged in since installation.

The confusing part was where the 3 way power cable for where the pump should have gone, as there were 3 options (as named above and you explained the names for me). I now have the pump plugged into the bottom 1 - see those 3 blue sockets very bottom of the tower, above the middle 1 is a white socket, that's called CHA Fan 1.

Anyway there are no error messages and it's all working now. I will do a normal reboote, see how that goes. If no problems then I will attempt to overclock it.
 
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#15
Could be worse, but definitly could be better. Whats your ambient air temperature there?
And whoa... 1.4+ v is a little bit too much core voltage for a D0. Have you set that to Auto in BIOS? Your temps should reduce a little if you turn down that core V a notch or two.
 
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#16
I never touched the power output at all. It will be on Auto. What would be recommended for my rig? I'm very new to overclocking!

The only thing I changed was bus speed from 133 to 200. It's stable at that and ran at the temperatues mentioned above, but Prime95 didn't like it and crashed after 1 minute. I reduced it down to 180 (3.2Ghz) and Prime95 liked that better.
 

$immond$

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#17
Add another fan on the front of the radiator you wont be disappointed.
 
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#18
I'd like to have another fan for the push/pull....

The chassis fan which sits on the side plastic window uses the cables directly from the power supply. I'd have to look for 1 of those instead and I'm guessing all 120mm fans have the same positioning on the screws so it will fit into the radiator?

Looking at the fans listed on www.overclockers.co.uk they vary a lot between RPM and dB. So it's a question of how noisey - how cool I want things. I have spare 3 pin sockets or the PSU cables.

I might go for this one?

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-004-NC&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=4
 
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#19
I managed to get the following settings in the BIOS...

CPU Config = Manual

Ratio = 21

FSB = 190

vCore = 1.35

CPU is now clocked at 4Ghz

It doesn't go above 73 degrees
 
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#20
Is that idle or load? If it's load then you're golden, if it's idle you're in trouble.

And make sure you have the pump power connector plugged into the CPU fan header on the board.