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MSI R9 290 OC temps at 94c while gaming

I see... I have a custom fan speed .. technically when it reaches around 50c fan goes to 60% and so forth.. by 70c it's already @ 100%.. the noise isn't bothering my anyways..
 
I think you have to edit vbios. Because on my ASUS R9 290 DirectCU II OC new bios fan profile looks like:
Temperature Hysteresis = 6°C
First temperature = 50°C
Second temperature = 90°C
Third temperature = 110°C
Fan speed (for first temp) = 20%
Fan speed (for second temp) = 55%
Fan speed (for third temp) = 80%
Fourth temperature (max temp) = 110°C

So I had over 95c in load.
After modding vbios on profile like this:
Temperature Hysteresis = 6°C
First temperature = 40°C
Second temperature = 60°C
Third temperature = 85°C
Fan speed (for first temp) = 30%
Fan speed (for second temp) = 75%
Fan speed (for third temp) = 100%
Fourth temperature (max temp) = 105°C

I have 80c in max load by FurMark and 75c in games
 
94*C is as bad as a reference card, and you're saying that your fans are at 100%? That's rough. If you leave the fans on auto, what temp does the card get to?

Is it? All the reviews I saw of this card have the ref cooler models at around 90-94 when under load.
Is this the Frozr version? If not, then I am not surprised.
 
Is it? All the reviews I saw of this card have the ref cooler models at around 90-94 when under load.
Is this the Frozr version? If not, then I am not surprised.

afaik non reference coolers were supposed to keep the temps between 70-80'c but the OP's ambient temps are quite high. he's quoting 29-32'c ambient. For me.... If my ambient was that hot i would be gaming. Luckily I have a portable aircon unit while not the most powerful unit out there can chill my room to 23-25'c while i game and thats fine.

I woken up to 16'c in my room before but that was with no AC or heating.
 
Hi. I ask in this thread because I have exactly same symptoms and very similiar situation.

my config:

2 x MSI R290 290 Gaming
i5 2500k
Asrock P67 Extreme4
Antec 900W
Fractal Design Arc XL (6 fans) 3 in 3 out exactly same placement like user Padzki and exactly same temps :(

10 minutes furmark 95C VRM1 89C
Dark Souls 2 few minutes 95C VRM1 83C
Crysis few minutes 95C VRM1 84C
Divinity - Original Sin 94C VRM1 84C

Ambient room temp 27C-30C

Replaced cards in slots - same upper card always ten degrees more then lower ( i should point out that lower card never overheat and reaches max 85C)
FAN 100% all time - same reaches 95 but of course it's takes much more time.
Underclocked from 977MHz to 880MHz and now i can play hitting max 90C in above games.

I don't want to RMA now, because im curious what problem is and want just pin it down.

Im going to inspect fan and TIM first place.

Ah one more question: What potentially was wrong with Padzki card so RMA helped, only thing that comes to my mind is heatsink mounting , TIM placement ?

Any other ideas ?

ps. What i don't like in construction of MSI cards is cooler fins are vertical from PCI slot to upper edge of card, wonder if temps would be better if fins where aligned horizontally from DVI output to other edge so hot air will exit through mounting bracked grilled holes.
 
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ps. What i don't like in construction of MSI cards is cooler fins are vertical from PCI slot to upper edge of card, wonder if temps would be better if fins where aligned horizontally from DVI output to other edge so hot air will exit through mounting bracked grilled holes.

My 6870s are setup like this, both are MSI, one is a TwinFrozr and the other uses the reference cooler. The TIM on the TwinFrozr tends to dry out faster than the reference cooler. The TwinFrozr also suffers when the ambient temperature inside the case is higher than the outside by a significant margin. Unfortunately, even with the fins being oriented differently (like on my TwinFrozr,) the air doesn't actually get blown out the back and this has caused very large increases in temperature inside my chassis (Part of the reason why my two rear exhaust fans are a 150CFM SUNON and a 100 CFM thermaltake). The reference cooler on the other hand, despite being louder, will move more air and will shove it out the rear of the case so the increase in internal ambient temperature will be lesser than that of the TwinFrozr card and monitoring temperatures have shown this.

I suspect you don't have enough air flow and that the temperature inside your chassis probably is 5-10*C higher than outside the chassis under load.

Personally I would replace the TIM and ensure that you have enough air flow and go from there, but people seriously underestimate the need for decent air flow in a chassis. Also custom fan profiles can do wonders. It did for me.
 
My 6870s are setup like this, both are MSI, one is a TwinFrozr and the other uses the reference cooler. The TIM on the TwinFrozr tends to dry out faster than the reference cooler. The TwinFrozr also suffers when the ambient temperature inside the case is higher than the outside by a significant margin. Unfortunately, even with the fins being oriented differently (like on my TwinFrozr,) the air doesn't actually get blown out the back and this has caused very large increases in temperature inside my chassis (Part of the reason why my two rear exhaust fans are a 150CFM SUNON and a 100 CFM thermaltake). The reference cooler on the other hand, despite being louder, will move more air and will shove it out the rear of the case so the increase in internal ambient temperature will be lesser than that of the TwinFrozr card and monitoring temperatures have shown this.

I suspect you don't have enough air flow and that the temperature inside your chassis probably is 5-10*C higher than outside the chassis under load.

Personally I would replace the TIM and ensure that you have enough air flow and go from there, but people seriously underestimate the need for decent air flow in a chassis. Also custom fan profiles can do wonders. It did for me.


Thanks for response. I have good air flow in case - full cable management :), case is big. When i open case temp is even higher so it seems there is good flow when case is closed.

I got 3 intakes 2 front, 1 bottom and 3 exhaust (two top) one rear all 140cm fractal design fans. I tried many fan configs but difference is minimal.

GPU idle temp is 38C its barely 8C more then room ambient.

As i said i will try changing TIM soon and check heatsing is properly mounted.

But i have feeling that it can be some design flaw (or maybe those card are not supposed to work in crossfire) and i will end up buying water blocks for this awesome cards.

I really doubt that custom fan profile can help me, because even when i manually set them 100% temp rises to 94C but slower.

I even added additional exhaust fan outside of case, near mounting bracket (under DVI) to help exhaust hot air using holes in bracket but it too was no go.
 
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Thanks for response. I have good air flow in case - full cable management :), case is big. When i open case temp is even higher so it seems there is good flow when case is closed.

I got 3 intakes 2 front, 1 bottom and 3 exhaust (two top) one rear all 140cm fractal design fans. I tried many fan configs but difference is minimal.

GPU idle temp is 38C its barely 8C more then room ambient.

As i said i will try changing TIM soon and check heatsing is properly mounted.

But i have feeling that it can be some design flaw (or maybe those card are not supposed to work in crossfire) and i will end up buying water blocks for this awesome cards.

I really doubt that custom fan profile can help me, because even when i manually set them 100% temp rises to 94C but slower.

I even added additional exhaust fan outside of case, near mounting bracket (under DVI) to help exhaust hot air using holes in bracket but it too was no go.

The airflow might be significant, but if the air coming out the back of the tower is really hot, it means you don't have enough. The 290 and 290X can eat a lot of power and having two of them is a lot of heat to try to remove. Additionally placement of the intake and exhaust fans also can make a difference because the way the air flows through the case might not actually be benefiting the GPUs. For example, my case has 3 intake fans in the front and one on the side panel (all 120mm) with exhaust fans in then back (2x120mm) and the top (1x200mm). The rear exhaust fans are 100cfm max on the top and 150 CFM max on the bottom, however without the side panel intake fan, the air inbetween the two 6870s wouldn't get moved around except by the GPU cooler and even intake on the side panel might be sub-optimal since you really need to move air away from the GPUs because of how much heat they make.

As you can see, the only fan that's really moving air between the two GPUs on my own rig is the side fan, the intake fans in the front won't do a whole lot for them by themselves.
Photo%20Jul%2021%2C%208%2013%2007%20AM.jpg

Sorry for the bad quality picture, next time I'll use my wife's camera instead of my phone.

Could you take a picture of how your case is setup? It would be enlightening and could help.
 
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Could you take a picture of how your case is setup? It would be enlightening and could help.[/QUOTE]

Sure, will try post some photos after work.
 
Biggest factor I have found so far with 290s, is voltage. On the MSI R9s, I managed to under volt them in Afterburner to a setting of -75, which works out to about -.060 or there abouts. That drops the temperature down more than any air flow, spacing or cooler/fan adjustments.

If you're not overclocking, then that should be your first step.
 
Biggest factor I have found so far with 290s, is voltage. On the MSI R9s, I managed to under volt them in Afterburner to a setting of -75, which works out to about -.060 or there abouts. That drops the temperature down more than any air flow, spacing or cooler/fan adjustments.

If you're not overclocking, then that should be your first step.

Thanks. I will check it.
 
Biggest factor I have found so far with 290s, is voltage. On the MSI R9s, I managed to under volt them in Afterburner to a setting of -75, which works out to about -.060 or there abouts. That drops the temperature down more than any air flow, spacing or cooler/fan adjustments.

If you're not overclocking, then that should be your first step.

Can you link me some steps how to do it. I mean should i disable ULPS first or make some other prerequirements (like do not use CCC Overdrive etc)

Can i undervolt for gaming without crash. Im not mining.
 
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If you don't have a fan on the side panel you probably need more air moment under that first GPU which would explain why the second one is always significantly warmer than the first. Just getting the warm air out would make a difference, maybe an expansion slot air cooler would solve your problem? Either that or more powerful intake fans so it "pushes" the warm air out but that's sub-optimal imho as it completely depends on the air pressure in your chassis.
 
Can you link me some steps how to do it. I mean should i disable ULPS first or make some other prerequirements (like do not use CCC Overdrive etc)

Can i undervolt for gaming without crash. Im not mining.

1. Turn off CCC (Task Manager and end process on MOM.exe CCC.exe)
2. Goto Start>Run type Services.msc, hit Enter. Find the "AMD EXTERNAL EVENTS UTILITY". Stop this and set it to Disabled.
3. Download and install MSI Afterburner 3.0.1
(optional) Download Catalyst 14.3 (gives lower temperatures for some users). Select uninstall to remove the old driver and CCC. Then re run it and install only the driver and nothing else that you can select.

Reboot.

4. In Afterburner, click on settings at the bottom and then follow the picture I've attached. Fan control is optional, though I think you'll find that fan profile to be helpful(Make sure it's set to Auto on the front page and User Defined(small cog wheel button). Back in the settings, under Fan section, in the graph chart, right click to add a new point, then left click and drag it into position).
5. Close the settings and lower the Core Voltage to -31 and click Apply. Test out a game for a few minutes. Repeat this process till you get to -75. If it won't go that low without flickering desktop, then go back up ten until it stops (remember you have to hit Apply each time).
6. Once you find a setting you like, click the Save button and left click on any of of the number slots 1-5. Also ensure that Apply overclocking at system startup, is selected.
 

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1. Turn off CCC (Task Manager and end process on MOM.exe CCC.exe)
2. Goto Start>Run type Services.msc, hit Enter. Find the "AMD EXTERNAL EVENTS UTILITY". Stop this and set it to Disabled.
3. Download and install MSI Afterburner 3.0.1
(optional) Download Catalyst 14.3 (gives lower temperatures for some users). Select uninstall to remove the old driver and CCC. Then re run it and install only the driver and nothing else that you can select.

Reboot.

4. In Afterburner, click on settings at the bottom and then follow the picture I've attached. Fan control is optional, though I think you'll find that fan profile to be helpful(Make sure it's set to Auto on the front page and User Defined(small cog wheel button). Back in the settings, under Fan section, in the graph chart, right click to add a new point, then left click and drag it into position).
5. Close the settings and lower the Core Voltage to -31 and click Apply. Test out a game for a few minutes. Repeat this process till you get to -75. If it won't go that low without flickering desktop, then go back up ten until it stops (remember you have to hit Apply each time).
6. Once you find a setting you like, click the Save button and left click on any of of the number slots 1-5. Also ensure that Apply overclocking at system startup, is selected.


Thanks for help i really appreciate it. Will check it after work today. Im really curious how much temps will go down. After that, this weekend i will check TIM and heatsink mounting. (So little time after work :( )
 
For those wondering and in the US - MSI will allow you to change the cooler or the TIM and retain warranty ****As long as you do not physically damage the part, same goes for DIY upgrades with MSI Notebooks ;) **** This is one reason why I like to stick with MSI for my own and my family/friends. SO many other you will void if you even remove the heatsink for inspection.
 
For those wondering and in the US - MSI will allow you to change the cooler or the TIM and retain warranty ****As long as you do not physically damage the part, same goes for DIY upgrades with MSI Notebooks ;) **** This is one reason why I like to stick with MSI for my own and my family/friends. SO many other you will void if you even remove the heatsink for inspection.
It's amazing that they allow that, yet they won't help you with some simple fan replacements.
 
It's amazing that they allow that, yet they won't help you with some simple fan replacements.
MSI don't have fans at there RMA center. They are only at the factory where the cards are made. Msi need a online store imo
 
Thanks for help i really appreciate it. Will check it after work today. Im really curious how much temps will go down. After that, this weekend i will check TIM and heatsink mounting. (So little time after work :( )
You are welcome.

FYI, I managed to undervolt to -87 in Afterburner today, which equates to 0.898 idle voltage. That's one full volt without any glitches or artifacts.

Maximum temperature comparison on FFXVI benchmark at 2560x1600, max quality and Vsync enabled.

Single Card
Core/VRM1/VRM2

Stock voltage 0.994 - 1.158 = 72/65/58
Undervolt 0.898 - 1.078 = 63/56/55

Crossfire
Changing a fan at the moment, so get back to you on that.

Your mileage may vary, though I strongly believe voltage is the number 1 heat regulator with these cards.
 
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What clocks you running? 977?? I think with retarding the voltage your loosing performance hey? Why undervolt when the MSI app drops the core and volts with one click set to run quiet mode.
Crossfire is a bitch on the top card for heat.
 
What clocks you running? 977?? I think with retarding the voltage your loosing performance hey? Why undervolt when the MSI app drops the core and volts with one click set to run quiet mode.
Crossfire is a bitch on the top card for heat.

For obvious characteristic of hot air vs cold air lol
 
You are welcome.

FYI, I managed to undervolt to -87 in Afterburner today, which equates to 0.898 idle voltage. That's one full volt without any glitches or artifacts.

Maximum temperature comparison on FFXVI benchmark at 2560x1600, max quality and Vsync enabled.

Single Card
Core/VRM1/VRM2

Stock voltage 0.994 - 1.158 = 72/65/58
Undervolt 0.898 - 1.078 = 63/56/55

Crossfire
Changing a fan at the moment, so get back to you on that.

Your mileage may vary, though I strongly believe voltage is the number 1 heat regulator with these cards.


newconroer, you where right.

I got stable undervolt = -50 and then my temps are 5-6C lower. This plus underclock to 910MHz gives me temps around 12-15C lower and now i can play my games without throttling.
When i set -70 i can play games ok and it's stable but stability in desktop is no good and soon i catch black screen.
Shame i must underclock but i hardly see any other solution for upper card till i buy water block.
But honestly this two cards even when clocked 910MHz is enough for gaming and handle any game i have with constant 60FPS and it's what i need.
One card can't keep 60FPS in my native res, thats why i need Crossfire for.
Just to be well understood -50 is stable for me even with 977MHz and thats not reason why i must lower clocks, i lower it because temps are 5-6C better but still too high for me. There is always probability that some game like Dark Souls 2 (with GeDoSaTo) will stress card more and it reaches around 90C, and i prefer to have some margin.

my idle voltage (after -50 setting) is around 0.935 when 3D its around 1.030 ~ 1.075
My temps after syntetic benchmark like heaven 4 for upper card :

Core/VRM1 (86/76) but in games it's usually lower (80-84/70-74)

Strange, but my VRM2 value for both cards is "sticky", it does not change but gets some random-looking value after each reboot in range around 76-82C and never change when computer is running.

Congrats for your 9C lower temps but i think my cards are worse in means of undervolting. But i will try now with 910MHz to get stable -70. My -70 idle black screen was with 977 clocks.

Before R9 290 i got 6990+6970 Trifire and upper card never was so hot and i remember it was 450W TDP for 6990 alone when in AUSUM mode. But those cards exhausted hot air via bracket.

Just for info, all my temp measurements in this post are with 28C idle room temp.
 
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What clocks you running? 977?? I think with retarding the voltage your loosing performance hey? Why undervolt when the MSI app drops the core and volts with one click set to run quiet mode.
Crossfire is a bitch on the top card for heat.

I've ran a good amount of various tests and I cannot discern any noticeable difference in performance. Additionally, that's only one card, where in most scenarios I'm between 50-60 frames. Crossfire takes me beyond that threshold easily, so I have the luxury to undervolt (whether it retards performance or not).

newconroer, you where right.

I got stable undervolt = -50 and then my temps are 5-6C lower. This plus underclock to 910MHz gives me temps around 12-15C lower and now i can play my games without throttling.
Awesome!

Just to be well understood -50 is stable for me even with 977MHz and thats not reason why i must lower clocks, i lower it because temps are 5-6C better but still too high for me.


Do your cards not down clock the frequencies automatically when the power isn't needed? I.e. Dynamic Clocks? Mine do and since they don't always sit at 977/1250, it helps with temperatures.

There is always probability that some game like Dark Souls 2 (with GeDoSaTo) will stress card more and it reaches around 90C, and i prefer to have some margin.

Have you ever got GeDoSaTo to downsample for any other games? It never worked/works for me ;/

my idle voltage (after -50 setting) is around 0.935 when 3D its around 1.030 ~ 1.075
My temps after syntetic benchmark like heaven 4 for upper card :

Core/VRM1 (86/76) but in games it's usually lower (80-84/70-74)

Hmm, still seems a bit high. Any way you can suck some of that air out?

Strange, but my VRM2 value for both cards is "sticky", it does not change but gets some random-looking value after each reboot in range around 76-82C and never change when computer is running.

You using GPUZ latest version?


Congrats for your 9C lower temps but i think my cards are worse in means of undervolting. But i will try now with 910MHz to get stable -70. My -70 idle black screen was with 977 clocks.

Before R9 290 i got 6990+6970 Trifire and upper card never was so hot and i remember it was 450W TDP for 6990 alone when in AUSUM mode. But those cards exhausted hot air via bracket.

Just for info, all my temp measurements in this post are with 28C idle room temp.

Thanks, my ambient is about that as well for the past week, some days a bit higher.[/QUOTE]
 
As soon as you said temperatures got worse then you put a non-reference card in, that would indicate that your airflow by your GPUs is poor. You need to fix that. The reference cooler has the added advantage of exhausting the hot air out the back of the case which the non-reference cards don't do. You need to get rid of that heat somehow yourself, your probably cooling your CPU more than any component in your computer with how the fans are setup @gregorez .
 
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