@ir_cow helped me is why I deleted my post. he explained it all to me, as well as confirming @Super Firm Tofu said in regards to there being single ranked 16gb sticks. I got it sorted, and the new sticks of ram I just purchased for my mobo I got today are QVL for that mobo and ircow confirmed for me they are dual ranked. so all is well on my end. didn't want to waste anyone elses time and didn't think anyone would see my post as I just made it... lol
thank you for helping though, it is appreciated. I am all done now... just waiting for RDNA3 now... if you have any powers in helping me beat the bots and third party sellers so that I can snag a RDNA3 on launch day for my new gaming rig... I would be much obliged...
2x16gb sticks, confirmed to be dual rank - means I am four rank though right?
also, this terminology is starting to wear on me, could you imagine us sitting at a pub and i tell you loudly over a drink what I just said. bloody hell, lmao
2x16gb sticks, confirmed to be dual rank - means I am four rank though right?
also, this terminology is starting to wear on me, could you imagine us sitting at a pub and i tell you loudly over a drink what I just said. bloody hell, lmao
Hey all been a couple years since I posted on here and had a lot happen in my life but looking to jump a bit back into the PC world while my wife games on the PS5 and dont want to feel too left out. Trying to find some help on upgrading my hardware as its been 12 years since I did a full build with virtually no alterations in the interim. My system specs should be right roughly and I'm not opposed to piecing stuff together over a year or more. Big concerns are whether or not my Corsair AX1200 needs replacing or should continue to serve me fine and general hardware recommendations to put me on par with the performance I was receiving when this was a fresh build in 2011 as I have no idea how to accurately compare relative performance anymore with how much things have advanced.
TLDR; System specs roughly correct need hardware recommendations for translating the comparative performance of this computer in 2011 to current times.
That things still considered top tier. Only possible issues are with GPU's that need the new 12 pin connector, but they all come with the GPU.
I'd buy a quality cable sold by Corsair for that exact PSU, to avoid the adaptor.
Anything out there from either camp exceeds the performance you had on that setup back in the day. Quickest summary would be:
1: CPU's single threaded performance controls your "lows" - the performance your system drops to.
Go to TPU's latest CPU review, find the 0.1% lows and you get an idea where its smart to run your framerates at. These values don't change with graphics settings or resolution. The reason the 4K results are lower, is the RTX4090 is the limiting factor here.
Just to reiterate my point, these are the bottoms of those graphs. All of them are GPU limited at ultra settings on 4K even with a 4090.
2. Buy a monitor with a refresh rate lower than your CPUs 0.1% lows.
Use Freesync or Gsync if you don't want stutter or tearing.
Use an FPS cap, either 2FPS under your refresh rate or at exactly half your refresh rate. No micro stutter, no tearing.
Only the extremely expensive top of the line Gsync ultimate displays avoid this issue, it's always been there it's just more obvious with faster CPUs.
3. Buy a GPU that can handle your chosen refresh rate and resolution, lower settings in games it can't keep up. FSR and DLSS help massively with this and are NOT used in the above graphs where the 4090 is the limit.
That things still considered top tier. Only possible issues are with GPU's that need the new 12 pin connector, but they all come with the GPU.
I'd buy a quality cable sold by Corsair for that exact PSU, to avoid the adaptor.
Anything out there from either camp exceeds the performance you had on that setup back in the day. Quickest summary would be:
1: CPU's single threaded performance controls your "lows" - the performance your system drops to.
Go to TPU's latest CPU review, find the 0.1% lows and you get an idea where its smart to run your framerates at. These values don't change with graphics settings or resolution. The reason the 4K results are lower, is the RTX4090 is the limiting factor here. View attachment 326573
2. Buy a monitor with a refresh rate lower than your CPUs 0.1% lows.
Use Freesync or Gsync if you don't want stutter or tearing.
Use an FPS cap, either 2FPS under your refresh rate or at exactly half your refresh rate. No micro stutter, no tearing.
Only the extremely expensive top of the line Gsync ultimate displays avoid this issue, it's always been there it's just more obvious with faster CPUs.
3. Buy a GPU that can handle your chosen refresh rate and resolution, lower settings in games it can't keep up. FSR and DLSS help massively with this and are NOT used in the above graphs where the 4090 is the limit.
Appreciate the reply! Found a solid deal at Best Buy for $170 off the 12700K and with the newest generations averaging only 14% improvements over that then with some OC it should be good enough for years to come. Just to clarify though are you saying my 12 year old AX1200 isn't something I should be worrying about replacing? I know I spared little expense back in the day but my understanding at the time was also somewhat limited and I wouldn't want this thing to grenade a new system.
Appreciate the reply! Found a solid deal at Best Buy for $170 off the 12700K and with the newest generations averaging only 14% improvements over that then with some OC it should be good enough for years to come. Just to clarify though are you saying my 12 year old AX1200 isn't something I should be worrying about replacing? I know I spared little expense back in the day but my understanding at the time was also somewhat limited and I wouldn't want this thing to grenade a new system.
The 12700k's only issue is the power.
If you don't unlock the power limit from 125W, it risks slowing down on you.
If you do unlock it, you need far more powerful cooling to keep up.
Hello everyone,
New user here, but I have been reading the site for a few years now.
I would need help with the following hardware (?) issue(s).
Long story short, since about a month ago my PC is having some kind of issues.
Sometimes when the PC is idle (so nothing resorce intensive is running) it sometimes it freezes for 30 seconds and either recovers / runs into BSOD with DPC_WATCHDOG VIOLATION error / gets stuck on black screen until restarted. To complicate things sometimes the PC runs just fine for days.
Once when the BSOD happened I was stuck on the "Automatic repair could not fix the issue" screen and could not get past that. Inexplicably entering the BIOS and changing the boot device back to the main nvme ssd fixed this loop.
The first error in the event log was:
DllHost (7788,D,0) Microsoft.Windows.Search_cw5n1h2txyewy_NOEDP_LEGACY_IDB: A request to write to the file "C:\Users\*****\AppData\Local\Packages\Microsoft.Windows.Search_cw5n1h2txyewy\AppData\Indexed DB\edb.log" at offset 417792 (0x0000000000066000) for 4096 (0x00001000) bytes succeeded, but took an abnormally long time (36 seconds) to be serviced by the OS. This problem is likely due to faulty hardware. Please contact your hardware vendor for further assistance diagnosing the problem
Following some brainstorming with ChatGPT ( I know, desperate times) and some google search I tried running chkdsk (no errors) and sfc /scannow (which allegedly fixed something but no effect)
Lately whenever it freezes/crashes it gets registered in the Event viewer with a "Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort2, was issued." warning with secnvme source.
So I began to suspect the NVME SSD (which is 2,5 years old and has not seen too much use)
The ssd in question is: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
I did run all the available dignostic scans in Samsung Magician to no avail as they all seem to succeed.
I did go through every suggestion for "Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort2, was issued." on the first page of google including:
About once a day I am seeing a process (not always the same one) lock up in a way that I cannot even kill it and I need to restart windows (10) to free it up. Each time this happens it is accompani...
superuser.com
But changing these did not seem to fix the issue.
Once again, sometimes the PC runs just fine for days and there were instaces when the issue kept coming back within in minutes.
Any ideas? I am not sure if reainstalling windows would help, I would rather not do that unless no other way to fix this. Buying new components if needed is also an option. I would appreciate any help. (Sorry if this is not the right thread)
) and some google search I tried running chkdsk (no errors) and sfc /scannow (which allegedly fixed something but no effect)