New PC build turning off during in windows installation

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
Yeah get a nice air cooler and proceed with install.

 

[Zach_01]

Ask MSI. They're the ones who silkscreened CPU_FAN1, PUMP_FAN1, etc. on their motherboards. They also write the owner's manuals.

Do you think they just came up with PUMP_FAN1 even though they think CPU_OPT is a better header? Is MSI that stupid? And Asus does the same? Are they equally illogical?

Gee, I must be a foolish simpleton for giving MSI, Asus and the others the credit for implementing a reasonable approach.

Or maybe Gigabyte does something completely different? I don't know anything about that since I have no Gigabyte products at the moment.

First of all I did not call anyone, you or any vendor, stupid, simpleton or fool.
You are entitled to freely share your opinion and your knowledge, IMHO without the unnecessary drama...
We are here to discuss hardware.

All I say was:

Maybe the best place to connect pump is the optional header next to CPU fan header. Often designated as CPU_OPT as this can power a regular AIO pump.

I regret and I'm really sorry not clarifying my statement as I meant cable management wise.
Yes CPU_OPT primarily serves as a secondary CPU fan header if the cooling device requires 2 fan connections. But since this AIO can power the fans from 1 header you could plug the pump on to OPT as it can do what the other pump headers do, at least for powering AIO pump.

But the fact is that you can't split out sources between CPU_FAN1 and CPU_OPT.

On my board (in BIOS) you can configure CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT differently, from control mode, curves(if needed) and set temp target (CPU or any other from the selection of temp sensors on board).

------------------------------------

I said that OP can try to switch the header of which the pump is connected to DC(voltage mode) and see if anything changes, as this should be selected mode for 3-pin.
But this is enlightening:

As @Zach_01 says above, DC/PWM/AUTO mode should be set to DC for 3-pin and PWM for 4-pin though I doubt this is the problem because in my experience the wrong setting here just results in the fans or pump running at full speed, never at zero.

 

[Teams02]

If op returns he/she can put this to the test. It's possible the aio is doa but there's a slim possibility that header and settings might fix things!.

 

[cvaldes]

... in my experience the wrong setting here just results in the fans or pump running at full speed, never at zero.

That's a function of the difference between PWM and DC fan control and how motherboard manufacturers program their UEFI these days.

In PWM control, the motherboard UEFI sends the speed change commands on the PWM signal (PIN 4). That's why when you power on the system, the fans typically run at full speed during POST. The default is a full 12V DC current.

Again, go ahead and plug in a bunch of fans into your motherboard headers and diddle with the control settings (Auto, PWM, DC). The fans won't stop unless you manually configure the UEFI for 0% or 0V DC. In some UEFIs, you can't actually set the fans to stop. Again, this is a safety precaution. It's better for the computer to have excess cooling by default rather than insufficient cooling.

As noted by the OP himself, he tried other fan headers unsuccessfully.

 

[nomdeplume]

Much thanks to those of you who have and continue to extend your time and knowledge. I understand opinions and advice can grow confusing when voices detract from the reasonable course of action.

Why would the motherboard manufacturer label a fan header PUMP_FAN1 if it wasn't the intended location for a pump?

Note that OP already unsuccessfully tried different fan headers for the AIO pump.

There was a chance power wasn't being delivered or the board had a manufacturing fault. There was no harm in quickly assessing if the glaring problem allowed bypassing signs of others. If parts came through the mail together they might have all seen an event.

Glad to hear this was a solitary failure you instantly recognized.

 

[Clockyer]

UPDATE:

it was a faulty AIO pump. After testing from advice on here multiple different things, nothing worked. Today I returned it to the shop and they tested it too and it was indeed faulty.
Shop was incredibly helpful and actually gave me a 360mm AIO instead of a replacement 240, so bonus.

attached is a photo of the system now fully working, apologies for the RGB puke, this was taken as soon as I got back and had installed everything successfully but hadn’t yet sorted the RGB mess out haha.

thanks for all the advice, I wouldn’t of ever found out the issue without it!