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Deleted member 24505

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Can anyone note any serious differences between temperatures when you have a radiator after a component rather than before?
I've got my loop pumpres>cpu>240>gpu>120>pumpres

That seems fine to me, probs the normal way to do that kind of loop I'd say. it'd be a bit pointless haveing 240>120 or cpu>gpu so I'd say thats fine. I'd probs go 240>cpu>120>gpu>pumpres.
 
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That seems fine to me, probs the normal way to do that kind of loop I'd say. it'd be a bit pointless haveing 240>120 or cpu>gpu so I'd say thats fine. I'd probs go 240>cpu>120>gpu>pumpres.

A guide I read somewhere mentioned 1-2 degree temperature improvements when having a radiator before a component, it said having a radiator after was fine and would make very little difference.
 
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The best performance setup you could have is rad->component->rad->component etc.

It's not advised tho because you would need to compromise in order to make that kind of arrangement.

I tested it and I can tell you you can appreciate 1-2c lower temperatures on components for the first minutes before the loop water temperature equalizes, after that it's like having component->component->rad->rad.

Yes I'm a watercooling madman :p
 
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The best performance setup you could have is rad->component->rad->component etc.

It's not advised tho because you would need to compromise in order to make that kind of arrangement.

I tested it and I can tell you you can appreciate 1-2c lower temperatures on components for the first minutes before the loop water temperature equalizes, after that it's like having component->component->rad->rad.

Yes I'm a watercooling madman :p

Yeah I did assume that eventually the water temp would equalise across the loop. I dont think I can be bothered to drain and take it to bits to rearrange the loop again xD I'll save that for the future when bigger rads and better pumps take my fancy. FAR in the future I hope.
 
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I always used to do rad>block>rad>block in my loops. I understand about the water temp equilibrium, so I guess it's kind of a psychological thing, and it does not really matter.
 
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ive got rad to block set up, and was told it strains the pump pushing water through the rad first.

i took that bit of advice and filed it in the trash lol.


my new stuff has arrived :D


2013-06-28 13.32.17.jpg
 
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ive got rad to block set up, and was told it strains the pump pushing water through the rad first.

i took that bit of advice and filed it in the trash lol.


my new stuff has arrived :D


View attachment 51684

uuuuuuu shiny red and white, that sounds like a cool colour combo...
I look forward to seeing your PC when you're done cannibalising holes for things to fit :D
 
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Can anyone note any serious differences between temperatures when you have a radiator after a component rather than before?
I've got my loop pumpres>cpu>240>gpu>120>pumpres

After a while you'll heat soak the rads, and everything will even out. It won't matter, really.
 
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ive got rad to block set up, and was told it strains the pump pushing water through the rad first.

i took that bit of advice and filed it in the trash lol.


my new stuff has arrived :D


View attachment 51684

Ya I don't think it makes a difference whats first as far as strain on the pump. It's having to push water through alll of it regardless of which component comes first. Mines Pump>360 rad>cpu>gpu. I'd like to have another rad, after a couple hours of BF3 it was almost 40c water, that's kinda higher than I would like

I got 3 corsair SP120s Pushing when I installed it, then I put 3 more AF120s pulling later that I had on the side originally. In this case it fits perfectly with push pull, it comes down to like 1/2 in above the mobo.
 
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im absolutely shattered from work and gym... so anything will wait till tomorrow.

i chose the white fittings because my board has white clips all over it and white blades on a certain fan. (my fingers were dirty when i picked them up lol shouldnt of done that!)

i kind of guessed the logic of the pump doing the same regardless. i may even forget the cylinder res depending on how this mod goes.

and monsoon ya leg ends.... '' dont be a tool '' hahahaa

boys and girls....switching from air to water, make sure you pay plenty of attention to airflow. my vrms have never gotten so hot and the only real change is the aegir gone. and im a bit worried about the rad sucking in the hot air from the vrms once a fan is located above.
 
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The best performance setup you could have is rad->component->rad->component etc.

It's not advised tho because you would need to compromise in order to make that kind of arrangement.

I tested it and I can tell you you can appreciate 1-2c lower temperatures on components for the first minutes before the loop water temperature equalizes, after that it's like having component->component->rad->rad.

Yes I'm a watercooling madman :p

I am thinking of getting real pipes and bending them rather than using tubing. What are your thoughts on that?
 

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Since i got a bigger case i'm also planning to go water cooling. So i will follow this thread and see how yours go :)
 
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boys and girls....switching from air to water, make sure you pay plenty of attention to airflow. my vrms have never gotten so hot and the only real change is the aegir gone. and im a bit worried about the rad sucking in the hot air from the vrms once a fan is located above.

Ya, i forgot about that. I was benching with the side off right after i got my water all done, and after a few minutes it was like failing in ibt and 3dmark physics constantly. So i put my finger on the heatsink by the cpu block and i think i burned my finger, it was bloody hot. kinda scared me. I put a big fan right on it and then it passed the bench fine lol. With the side panel on its pretty much fine at higher voltages i sometimes point a fan on it anyway
 
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Yeah the main reason I also watercool the motherboard is the insane VRM temps when you overclock past a certain point...
Even though my motherboard is watercooled there are some VRM on the backside which are not watercooled and they are smoking hot.



On the far left of the motherboard you can see that backplate, when I push 1.5v through the VRM the area becomes so hot you can feel it even without touching it.

I am thinking of getting real pipes and bending them rather than using tubing. What are your thoughts on that?

I'm not a fan of that cause you would most likely need to compromise on fittings look because you'll need to use either push fit or ferrule nut compressions.

You could use bitspower SLI connectors but that isn't safe...
 
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Yeah the main reason I also watercool the motherboard is the insane VRM temps when you overclock past a certain point...
Even though my motherboard is watercooled there are some VRM on the backside which are not watercooled and they are smoking hot.

http://cdn.overclock.net/f/fa/500x1000px-LL-facbd6e5_P1010942.jpeg

On the far left of the motherboard you can see that backplate, when I push 1.5v through the VRM the area becomes so hot you can feel it even without touching it.



I'm not a fan of that cause you would most likely need to compromise on fittings look because you'll need to use either push fit or ferrule nut compressions.

You could use bitspower SLI connectors but that isn't safe...

Ya true but I think it looks so much better if done well. I am just waiting on my next pay check to get my case mod things then my water cooling parts.
 
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Few things to consider that I didn't see through at least a few pages (Didn't read all of them)

Make sure your res drain is above your pump, otherwise you will have a seriously fun time trying to make it work. Always plan a fill and draining method, less you be stuck in a nightmare of a built system that needs either. Try to make sure the water entering your pump isn't hot, most pumps don't like hot water and it will cause them to fail. A big res goes a long ways, I find that tubes look nice but they can be a pain to work with. Depending on your block, compression fittings might not fit without adapters to spread them apart.

Few things on fans...

Double thick rads are generally low FPI which means less pressure required, don't try to push the air through, suck it through, it works better alone. I generally find it's still slightly beneficial to do a push/pull on these rads. Personally I try to avoid using low FPI rads (Especially if you are going to push/pull) as they are simply not as capable, I instead go for high FPI I like 30, but 25 will do. I generally use AC F12 fans on my rads in a push/pull, they are quiet and perform well.
 
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Few things to consider that I didn't see through at least a few pages (Didn't read all of them)

Make sure your res drain is above your pump, otherwise you will have a seriously fun time trying to make it work. Always plan a fill and draining method, less you be stuck in a nightmare of a built system that needs either. Try to make sure the water entering your pump isn't hot, most pumps don't like hot water and it will cause them to fail. A big res goes a long ways, I find that tubes look nice but they can be a pain to work with. Depending on your block, compression fittings might not fit without adapters to spread them apart.

Few things on fans...

Double thick rads are generally low FPI which means less pressure required, don't try to push the air through, suck it through, it works better alone. I generally find it's still slightly beneficial to do a push/pull on these rads. Personally I try to avoid using low FPI rads (Especially if you are going to push/pull) as they are simply not as capable, I instead go for high FPI I like 30, but 25 will do. I generally use AC F12 fans on my rads in a push/pull, they are quiet and perform well.

Pretty much got all that covered, 2 push fans on the raystorm RS240 and push pull fans on the low FPI extra thick EK rad. As for water temps, they are doing pretty good at the moment for the pump. Also I can drain using gravity at its best by just unplugging my lowest res/pump tube which is quite easy in my case, all the water drains out within 2 minutes or so and creates zero splash mess :D I dont think there's anything I'd change drastically except maybe an extra pump in my loop, as temperatures are excellent for the GPU, and fairly average for the CPU (considering the stupid voltage). If anything, I'd probably replace my CPU altogether at some point because its just a very poorly binned chip, requiring abnormal amounts of volts.
Its almost as if it was overvolted sky high before I bought it and had mega vdroop even though it was new. I set it to 1.32v in bios, and it droops down to 1.302 sometimes.
 
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where to start, last night i got bored at about 8 so thought id rip it all apart. fastest tear down ive ever done, plus draining the res was a bit fiddly. had to take the cpu mount off then pull it all forwards to use the bottom plug. had to do it speedy because of rain and the dusk.

took it outside cut a slot for the rad and fittings, had to cut bits off the top plastic case. so the rad is now not screwed in but held tightly by the plastic case.

drilled a few holes for a fan mount on the back of the board. covered screw head in glue incase of contact - but i did measure and test the gap, all is ok.

i didnt want to remove that fan in the bay so had to tilt it for the tubes to just pass, although there is slight tension against tube and fan.

these monsoon fittings are incredible, i was testing them on a bit of hose. put the fitting on tightened it up. connected it to a mains pipe and no leaks with a lot of pressure. even tried ripping the hose out of the fitting and it didnt even move.

i know im a noob to fittings, but they seem incredible. great quality and well worth the money.

temps are even better and the ambient is double it was when i tried it out first time.

anyone thinking of watercooling for the first time, i strongly suggest a pipecutter. i get perfectly straight cuts and even tried with scissors and couldnt get them that perfect.
 
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I used a jigsaw, borrowed it from work (the grammar school girls wont exactly mind me using their tools). Heatsinks came today, so I've literally just put them on:





One of these days I'll invest in a better camera other than my damn phone...
 
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rcoon where ya been, ive been waiting to show ya my rig but ya was no where!! ya robbing tools from girls - priceless!

didnt realise your gpu block looked like that, its a nice little block!

how come the vrm mosfets are scattered everywhere? is that a nvidia thing or brand thing?

depending on temps, i strongly suggest a fan for them. and make sure they dont drop off, some glues have a tendency to do that before they bake in.

btw nice big toe... and ya timberlands holding up ya card lol
 

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rcoon where ya been, ive been waiting to show ya my rig but ya was no where!! Ya robbing tools from girls - priceless!

Didnt realise your gpu block looked like that, its a nice little block!

How come the vrm mosfets are scattered everywhere? Is that a nvidia thing or brand thing?

Depending on temps, i strongly suggest a fan for them. And make sure they dont drop off, some glues have a tendency to do that before they bake in.

Btw nice big toe... And ya timberlands holding up ya card lol
:roll:
 
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Hey man I saved up to buy those boots for a few months, and they were the perfect height to get my GPU level so I could apply the sinks straight :D
I also regularly use the hardware stuff in the school, they have furnaces, kilns, loads of hardware testing kit, and my all time favourite, araldite :rockout:
Grammar schools have too much money, and not enough time to use the stuff they buy.
Plus the girls love to ask questions, and it didnt take them long to nickname me Mr Tumnus, and take every opportunity they get to call me that. I even managed to get a few of them to enter into the computer game making competition 2 weeks ago, and they won it!

Oh yeah, VRMS, no they're not scattered everywhere, I just had a few spare sinks, so I applied them to every chip I deemed worthy of having pointless passive cooling.
Temps remain to be epic.
 
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durvelle seems to be laughing a lot tonight.......
 
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