No startup display,computer beeps, screams continuously

[rohit.kohli]

Hi...

Yesterday I was playing sleeping dogs(on extreme graphics quality) with my computer screaming with noise of fans(including GPU). After 10 mins, computer turned off suddenly with hard disk processing light blinking in power off state.
I cleaned my computer, took out video card, RAM, cleaned the slots and put everything back. After starting computer, all the fans(including GPU fan) seemed to be running on full speed continuously with no display on screen. Usually on normal start-up this happens for 2-3 seconds, but this time it occurred continuously.
I again switched off the computer, restarted and now fans behaved normal but started with 2 beeps initially, then followed by 3 monotonous beeps after regular intervals. And I still got no display on screen. This procedure of 2 initial beeps followed by 3 continuous beeps
continued even if I detached and again attached RAM, one at a time.

The following are my computer specifications which would help you to diagnose my problem:
CPU:AMD FX-6100
GPU:AMD HD Radeon 6950
RAM:Corsair 8GB(2X4GB) 1600mghz
MB:MSI 970A-G45
HDD:WD 500GB
PSU: CoolerMaster Extreme Power Plus 600W

I would appreciate if you can look over my case and help me solving this issue...

 

[johnspack]

Power supply. Read this review: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/arti...e-Power-Plus-600-W-Power-Supply-Review/1034/9

 

[eidairaman1]

Power supply. Read this review: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/arti...e-Power-Plus-600-W-Power-Supply-Review/1034/9

thats true right there, if anything not to go cheap on its the PSU.

 

[de.das.dude]

i dont know why, but its a common misconception to buy cooler master PSUs over Corsair in india.

cooler master makes pretty bad overpriced PSUs.

 

[itsakjt]

Clear the CMOS. Remove the battery. Short the terminals with a metal object. Reconnect battery. Check if the jumpers are attached properly. Also make sure all cables are firmly attached especially the graphics card power, VCore power and the 24 pin EATX power.
Switch on the computer.
If it still does not work, check the components one by one.

 

[TRWOV]

The only good CM PSUs are the Silent and Hybrid lines. With the Extremes and Elites you have to shave of about 60w from its stated wattage (the Elite 460 is a 400w unit for example).

In this case the Extreme Power 550 is actually better than the 600. You can draw about 490w from the Extreme 550 without issues.

 

[Hood]

Fireworks in your PC

I would try another power supply if you have a working one handy. Those particular units are notorious for being some of the worst PSUs on the market. Johnny Guru said about their 750w unit, "not too bad for a 600 watt power supply, what... you say this is supposed to be a 750?" They're made by Seventeam, the Chinese company which makes most of Silverstone's units, if that tells you anything. I hope that's all it is and that it didn't take out any of your other expensive parts when it fried. It pays in the long run to get a decent PSU because a cheap one can fry your whole system, sometimes even start a fire. I don't know what's available in your area, but whatever you choose at least check out the reviews on the internet. Johnny Guru's reviewers do in-depth reviews with dis-assembly and real load tests, and they are absolutely ruthless when they find a marginal power supply with bogus claims about efficiency and power output. They also tell you who really makes it. Corsair's better units are made by Seasonic and Delta, both rock solid and known for reliability. Here's a site that breaks it all down: http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page541.htm

 

[mafia97]

I have a tagan 650w psu but the PSU started weakening recently so i changed it, i still have it in spare and rohit.kohli lives near my house.
should we try that PSU

 

[UbErN00b]

I have a tagan 650w psu but the PSU started weakening recently so i changed it, i still have it in spare and rohit.kohli lives near my house.
should we try that PSU

Worth a try and will at least rule it out if it's not the PSU, I suspect it might be as that review failed to deliver 500w and I would imagine if his sytem was overclocked and running SD on extreme it would be able to pull that kind of wattage.

 

[johnspack]

I would try anything, in that review they actually blew up the psu in the tests. He shouldn't use it anymore until another one is tested. Blown up psus can damage other components in a computer, particularly video cards.

 

[eidairaman1]

if its already weakening, i wouldnt trust it anymore. That PSU is more like a 325 Watt now

 

[cdawall]

Just throwing it out there a 450w unit should have zero issues powering that rig.

and the review on that unit fucking sucks

No shit the unit failed it is only rated to run 18A on the 12V rails each. The correct way to reach full load would have been to load the 3.3V and 5V rails correctly not continuing to overdraw the 12V rail. Just FYI seventeam as a whole makes some of the best units available for purchase...

 

[de.das.dude]

wow, considering my GS600 pumps out 48Amps on the 12V rail... and costs 80$, is an epic win.

 

[cdawall]

wow, considering my GS600 pumps out 48Amps on the 12V rail... and costs 80$, is an epic win.

The coolermaster is an old design. Hence the very high 3.3 and 5v's

 

[de.das.dude]

ahh so the local ones that have high 3.3s and 5s are old designs too!
i thought that was just a marketing gimmick to increase wattage.

i guess old pcs had a lot of 5V and 3.3V ICs

 

[jaydeee]

I am also thinking that it has something to do with the cooling system of your processor.

 

[mafia97]

if its already weakening, i wouldnt trust it anymore. That PSU is more like a 325 Watt now

We dont know his PSU has weakened or not, i have a spare tagan 650w psu that was weakening whichi replaced.

 

[rohit.kohli]

thanks a lot for all your valuable replies... I would start by replacing PSU with mafia97 tomorrow and if that worked, i'll buy a new one...i just hope my other hardware peripherals are in good state... i would appreciate if you could suggest which PSU to buy according to my specs..

 

[eidairaman1]

that machine with out an overclock only calls for 483 Watts Recommended, So Id say a 550 Watt would suffice or even a 600 even.

Honestly with a beep code, it could mean CPU or ram personally.

If a Machine powersup up then 10 minutes later shuts down that CPU could be overheating too, id double check the matting of the CPU heatsink to the CPU and if that fan is working properly. Still regardless get a better PSU- in the long run youll be thankful you did.

 

[cdawall]

ahh so the local ones that have high 3.3s and 5s are old designs too!
i thought that was just a marketing gimmick to increase wattage.

i guess old pcs had a lot of 5V and 3.3V ICs

Yup machines with several laptop drives will draw heavier on the 5v rail than normal as well. The good thing about that seventeam built unit is it is not a group regulation unit so its really not all that bad. Just rated a little differently than modern units with massive 12V rails.

I am also thinking that it has something to do with the cooling system of your processor.

Normally a unit even without a HSF will show the POST screen.

that machine with out an overclock only calls for 483 Watts Recommended, So Id say a 550 Watt would suffice or even a 600 even.

Honestly with a beep code, it could mean CPU or ram personally.

If a Machine powersup up then 10 minutes later shuts down that CPU could be overheating too, id double check the matting of the CPU heatsink to the CPU and if that fan is working properly. Still regardless get a better PSU- in the long run youll be thankful you did.

After actually reading the OP. It screams bad memory. I would pull all the sticks out and test them one by one.

thanks a lot for all your valuable replies... I would start by replacing PSU with mafia97 tomorrow and if that worked, i'll buy a new one...i just hope my other hardware peripherals are in good state... i would appreciate if you could suggest which PSU to buy according to my specs..

If you do end up having to purchase a new powersupply look through this list it is from newegg but you should have some of the brands were you are from.

Computer Hardware, Power Supplies, Power Supplies...

 

[rohit.kohli]

Hi..
My problem still persists...
I removed my RAMs and checked in other computer.. working
Same goes with GPU, hard disk... working
I also checked my power supply with mafia97's spare power supply(Tagan 600W)... same thing occurred which occurred with my power supply..
I noticed 1 thing- when i remove circular cell on motherboard, near the PCI slot, and switch on my computer, all fans ran at full speed...
And when i reinserted my cell and also replaced it with another cell, then beeping occurs(same 2 initial followed by 3 continuous beeps)...
i tried clearing CMOS via jumper, but nothing seemed to change...

 

[Hood]

It's starting to look like you've fried a capacitor on your mainboard. Maybe a local shop can repair it or at least confirm that it's bad. I don't trust MSI, the last board of theirs I bought (G41M-P26) would overheat the north bridge whenever stressing the system, and would freeze the system every time it got to 64c. MSI ignored my emails after the first one, and for 3 months whenever I played a game I had to turn on a Delta 5000 rpm fan pointing at the chipset - very loud and annoying, but it would stay under 52c with the fan blowing. Lesser fans had no effect. MSI has also been busted making exaggerated claims in their advertising. As for their "military class" parts, they must be WW2 surplus. I'm not impressed with MSI.

 

[brandonwh64]

I have blown two of MSI's lower end boards by OCing slightly. This board seems to be a middle class style board and should hold up to alittle abuse.

*edit*

well after looking this board up it seems to be designed with light duties in mind.

 

[3870x2]

It's starting to look like you've fried a capacitor on your mainboard. Maybe a local shop can repair it or at least confirm that it's bad. I don't trust MSI, the last board of theirs I bought (G41M-P26) would overheat the north bridge whenever stressing the system, and would freeze the system every time it got to 64c. MSI ignored my emails after the first one, and for 3 months whenever I played a game I had to turn on a Delta 5000 rpm fan pointing at the chipset - very loud and annoying, but it would stay under 52c with the fan blowing. Lesser fans had no effect. MSI has also been busted making exaggerated claims in their advertising. As for their "military class" parts, they must be WW2 surplus. I'm not impressed with MSI.

This sounds like a possibility.

Check each of your capacitors on your board (they are round cylindrical things attached by 2 solder points in the board, sticking up, some skinny, some fat.)

If any of them look kinda exploded (puffed out from the sides or the top) then you are in luck because it is an easy fix. Also other devices like the graphics card.

I will have to agree with everyone else, it looks like a power issue, and a power issue is the most common kind of no-boot with systems.

 

[Hood]

I have blown two of MSI's lower end boards by OCing slightly. This board seems to be a middle class style board and should hold up to alittle abuse.

*edit*

well after looking this board up it seems to be designed with light duties in mind.

http://img.techpowerup.org/121001/731.jpg

That's pretty funny! It's like they're admitting the board is crap. It doesn't even mention overclocking so they're telling you that even at stock clocks, don't run certain software or the board will OVERHEAT! Pretty pathetic, and my opinion of MSI just dropped another notch, if that's possible. Thanks for the info, now I know it's not just me!