already did all that and still no change. i dont think my heatsink is making full contact with cpu...
that's why i was wondering if i can remove the thing in blue, i have uploaded a image
That is the item I was talking about removing from the hinge when I mentioned the test previously. Don't be afraid to test this out, but don't feel like you HAVE to do it..
Many people will say just put in the thermal paste the way intel intends, a big ol pea size gob in the middle and let the heat and pressure spread it out..
This is TOOO much thermal paste... The reason they have been suggesting doing this is because the methods that we used to use; "credit card swiping" or plastic baggy over our fingers; does not work with this socket type very well... so ... yeah or I could stay like an ostrich with my head in the sand.... and mention nothing about it...
I have found on my 680i board and two different cpu's that the temperatures and bsod's were because the retention bracked does indeed deflect the IHS and create a low spot where the CPU die resides, and will not make flush contact with the heatsink and rely's only on the thick layer of thermal grease... If you had a lapped IHS like on my qx6700; you could literally see the reflections of a flat surface start to "BEND" while you lock the cpu down....
My brothers intel based board did not push that hard or unevently on the CPU compared to my 680i board..
I had this problem with an intel E6600 and QX6700 on my 680i board. The bracket pressure on the IHS will not provide a flat enough surface to use a propper thin coating application of thermal transfer grease/compound..
You can easily test to see if your bracket is bending the IHS without removing the CPU retainer, or the CPU from the socket.. Put a small peice of carbon paper facing a small piece of plain white paper between the CPU and heatsink, then install the heatsink, then remove the heatsink and look at the plain white paper for a contact patern..
You may see area's with darker marks, near the edges of the IHS, instead of the center, where the actual cpu die is located, this is not good.... If you don't have carbon paper, use a very thin skim coat of thermal compound, then install and remove the CPU heatsink/cooler and look at the patern.. Where the CPU does not contact the IHS correctly, the thermal goop will be thicker, or not touching at all.. It usually looks like a thicker line of goop down the middle on quad cores, and may look like a thinned out open ended pair of brackets with a dual core.
As I mentioned above, removing the retainer bracket from the socket hinge, is another way to test if you have this issue; by comparing your temperatures before and after removing the CPU retainer clip from the socket hinge; using only a skim coat of goop.. If you have a flat contact patch without the retainer bracket, you'll see the results as much lower load temps as there is less thermal insulation between the base of the Cooler and the top of the IHS compared to what is required to get it working with the CPU retainer bracket locked down....
The situation that I have on my 680i, I have had the CPU retainer bracket disconnected from the socket for a couple years..
I had been Using just the OEM heatsink to hold the CPU down flat against the contact pins, but decided that bolt down was the only real secure way to go..
Trust me, the bracket sucks; it bends the CPU IHS on duals and quads, it's especially bad on quads because of the way quads are made; the silicon is split into two cores, right down the middle of the CPU, where the bracket puts the most pressure.. with all those tiny pins pushing up from the other side.. The combination of forces acts like when you grab a pencil an put your two thumbs in the middle, and the rest of your fingers around the back and press in opposite directions.. The bracket deflects the entire CPU substrate right down the middle of the CPU between the two cores of quads...
Ensure that the CPU is lined up in the socket; the right way around, and that the locator tabs don't overlap where they are not supposed to; then carefully line the cooler up with the heatsink cooler retention holes, so that all of the little tabs are just lined up with the holes, but the cooler isn't touching the CPU yet.. Then push the cooler straight onto the cpu slowely and carefully, so that you do not twist, or re-lift up on the CPU cooler and don't allow the cooler to tilt or move while you are installing and locking the cooler's retainer clips in place....
The stock intel/clip type heatsink retainer is strong enough to hold the cpu and heatsink against the motherboard, however, I would not trust to leave it fixed like this for long unless you have a bolt through "secure" heatsink..
Try it out... Don't worry too much as long as you are carefull in holding the heatsink down against the processor and firmly into the socket with one hand, or have someone help you hold the heatsink down, while you press and lock the retainers in two corners at a time....
Always test that the retainers are actually pressed into place as there will be more force on the retainers without the CPU retainer bracket installed, due to the pressure of the spring loaded contact pins in the socket...
The reason I say be very carefull, if it tilts sideway's there's a chance at damaging the socket pins.. or scratching the base of the CPU near the contacts area, or slipping off the CPU entirely and mucking up components on the board.. so