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Old Gamer Memory Upgrade Worth It?

My Z97 now takes five minutes to fully boot to Windows 10.
I've just booted up Windows 10 Pro in an Intel i7-4770K system on a Gigabyte GA-Z97-D3H mobo with a CT1000P3SSD8 M.2 NVMe drive. The 1TB M.2 SSD is overkill on this machine, but for some reason the drive wasn't recognised on my 7950X system. N.B. I don't have Windows Fast Startup enabled on any of my desktop systems, which would probably improve startup times.

The time to reach Windows desktop was 85 seconds, but this included a wait of 10s for the LSI SAS controller BIOS message to go away, plus another 5s for me to enter my password at the Windows login prompt. If we subtract 10 + 5s from 85s we get 70s for a more typical machine with no SAS controller or login prompt nonsense. It takes another 30s for umpteen other things to load (Hard Disk Sentinel is especially slow checking multiple drives), but we're still talking less than 2 minutes for everything to load. The i7-4770K has a mild all-core overclock of 41x (Aida64 reports 4,021MHz). I have another i7-4770K running stock (no overclock) but I can't be bothered to fire it up right now.

It should be noted my Z97 board uses only two of the four PCIe channels in my NVMe drive, but it still benchmarks faster than a separate Windows 10 boot drive on a 2.5" laptop style SATA SSD. If memory serves me right, the two channels on the M.2 NVMe drive give roughly 800MB/s and the SATA drive just over 500MB/s in ATTO and Crystal Disk.

I'm running 4 x 4GB Crucial RAM (16GB total) at 1600MT/s on the overclocked i7-4770K. The other non-overclocked i7-4770K has 2 x 8GB Kingston DIMMs (16GB) at 2133MT/s. Outside of benchmarking, it's difficult to tell the difference between the two systems in terms of responsiveness. The overclocked CPU probably masks the slower RAM speed.

I have newer systems with 32GB and three machines with 64GB. Most of the time 16GB is more than enough for my needs, but when running Hyper-V Virtual Machines or 4k/UHD video renders, the extra memory is advantageous.

Dare I suggest trying a cheap DRAM-less M.2 NVMe drive of at least 480GB capacity? Better still get a more expensive drive with DRAM cache. Disconnect all other drives for safety's sake and install a fresh copy of Windows 10 on the M.2 drive. It takes me less than 15 minutes to install Windows 10 on an SSD in an old PC. Check how long it takes to boot to a clean install of Windows 10, then install some/all of your favourite programs and re-check the boot time. Let us know what happens.

If you want to experiment further, wipe the new SSD, reconnect your old SSHD boot drive(s) (are they in RAID?) and "clone" Windows 10 to the new SSD. Disconnect the SSHDs and any other hard disks before booting from the new SSD. THIS IS MOST IMPORTANT. It stops Windows from sometimes marking the old drive as the boot partition for the cloned Windows C: drive on the new SSD. You can reconnect all your old drives later.
https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree

Note: SSDs transfer rates usually get faster as you move up from 120GB to 240GB, then to 480GB and finally 980GB. Each doubling of capacity often doubles the number of RAM chips and hence parallel channels, but this may not be true in all cases. More channels = faster transfer rates. You may not need a 1TB SSD, but it should be significantly faster than an equivalent 120GB SSD of the same type.

Looking at this review of a Seagate SSHD, it claims Windows 7 SSHD boot times are 35% faster (compared to booting from 5400RPM HDD) or 25% faster than a 7200RPM HDD. A 25% or 35% improvement in Windows startup is not what I call a huge difference.
https://www.storagereview.com/review/seagate-laptop-sshd-1tb-review

Performance Versus 2.5-in. 5400-RPM/7200-RPM HDD:
  • Windows 7 Boot Time: 35% Faster/25% Faster
  • Applications Load Test: 450% Faster/300% Faster
  • Game Load Test: 140% Faster/50% Faster
Whilst I accept that data in the SSHD's cache will improve performance, transfer rates from the main HDD section of the Seagate are somewhat pedestrian, compared with modern hard drives. I have a couple of 8TB Toshiba hard disks where the transfer rate starts out at 250MB/s at the outer edge of the platters, reducing gradually to 120MB/s for the innermost cylinders. Your 1TB SSHDs seem to be hovering around the 100MB/s mark.

The 1TB Seagate SSHD review reaches the following conclusions:

When looking closer at its performance, the 1TB Seagate Laptop offered somewhat expected results. In our synthetic benchmarks which measure performance outside of cache, the drive posted 99.37MB/s read and 99.54MB/s write during the 2MB sequential tests. Both speeds were slower than the previous 750GB Seagate model, which posted reads and writes of 104.90MB/s and 103.67MB/s, respectively. Our 2MB and 4K random workloads told a similar story, placing the 1TB Seagate drive at the bottom of the pack. However, its performance picked up significantly when we put it through our real-world consumer benchmarks which show the advantage of cache technologies, which was highlighted by our gaming trace results. In this scenario, the 1TB Seagate Laptop SSHD boasted an impressive 1,498.08 IOPS, 80.36MB/s, and an average latency of 5.282ms; all of which were well above the other comparables. Though there wasn’t as much disparity between the results of the tested consumer SSHDs, our HTPC workloads showed the 1TB Seagate on top as well.

I don't know what programs or games you run, but if they involve loading vast amounts of data (Gigabytes) after switch on. they could flush part of the Windows Operating System out of the cache buffer (8GB?) so boot times might suffer.

If you're concerned about the longevity of SSDs, look for one with a high TBW (Tera Bytes Written) rating. Some (expensive) Enterprise class SSDs allow you to fill an SSD from blank every day (erasing at night, then filling again the next day). They tend to be used as short term cache (e.g. L2ARC/SLOG) in large storage arrays. You can continue to fill and erase such drives ad infinitum until the 5 year warranty expires. Consumer grade SSDs have lower TBW figures, especially QLC DRAM-less designs, but you might never wear one out, even with regular writes.
https://www.howtogeek.com/806926/what-does-tbw-mean-for-ssds/

Before buying, please note that M.2 drives are available in (faster) NVMe or (slower) SATA versions. SATA was more common back in the early days, but modern M.2 drives and motherboards are usually NVMe. At first glance the difference between NVMe and SATA is not always obvious, but you may be able to tell by checking the keyways (notches) on the end of the drive itself and the socket on the motherboard. They must match otherwise you might not be able to plug the drive in.

Some motherboards will work fine with both SATA and NVMe M.2 drives. Other motherboards might only work with SATA, or only with NVMe, in a specific socket. My Crucial P3 1TB CT1000P2SSD8 M.2 drive is NVMe, not SATA, but it runs fine on my Gigabyte Z97 mobo (albeit in slower 2-channel mode, not the faster 4-channel mode). The Crucial P3 M.2 NVMe is faster than my 2.5" laptop style SATA SSD, but in the real world, there's not much apparent difference between 800MB/s (M.2) and 500MB/s (SATA).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M.2
1920px-M2_Edge_Connector_Keying.svg.png
 
1) The only reason to upgrade from 16G to 32G on Haswell is if you get it for very-very cheap. Nowadays it's a non-issue, lots of very cheap kits(even new ones) cost very little. Though, if I were you, I wouldn't bother. In your system that's least significant of all bottlenecks.
2) Haswell does fully support NVME, incl NVME boot. That's going to be THE best upgrade for your system.
I don't have Windows Fast Startup enabled on any of my desktop systems, which would probably improve startup times.
Don't enable it. On older platforms there can be a potential issue with hybrid sleep, where a PC fails to wake up and gives you black screen. I only leave it on Skylake and newer systems.
 
Don't enable it. On older platforms there can be a potential issue with hybrid sleep, where a PC fails to wake up and gives you black screen. I only leave it on Skylake and newer systems.
Thanks for the tip. I spent years trying to work out why booting Windows from multiple drives (XP, 7, 10) resulted in the "dirty bit" being set on all drives, until I disabled Fast Startup. At least I think that's why I got rid of it many years ago.

I am looking at a 32GB (4x8) GB set of Kingston Hyper X Genesis modules
As for fitting 32GB instead of 16GB, if the RAM is super cheap, go for it. You can experiment with Virtual Machines (even on Windows 10 Home) or edit really big RAW files and videos.

If 32GB RAM costs more than a 480GB SSD, get the latter.
 
Thanks for the tip. I spent years trying to work out why booting Windows from multiple drives (XP, 7, 10) resulted in the "dirty bit" being set on all drives, until I disabled Fast Startup. At least I think that's why I got rid of it many years ago.

This is not caused by directly by fast startup, it is a symptom of using it on a dual boot configuration. There is no dirty bit set, only a compatibility issue, which results in CHKDSK being invoked.

Windows 8 introduced an upgrade to the NTFS journaling system ($LogFile version 2.0), which Windows 7 and earlier cannot support. When an NTFS volume is dismounted by the operating system, it will downgrade the $LogFile journal to version 1.1 that has been used since NT 4, providing backwards compatibility with the earlier operating systems. However, when hibernating (this includes fast startup, which is partial hibernation), the NTFS volume will never be dismounted, which results in the symptom described. This will also happen if you take a volume which was originally created on Windows 7, mount it on a Windows 10 system for example, write something to it and then attempt to read the drive on Windows 7 again: CHKDSK will be invoked because the $LogFile version expected by Windows 7 is incorrect. You may use this command to see what journaling version your volume has:

1742562666656.png


If you want to use fast startup without triggering CHKDSK every time, you can force Windows to use the old journaling system by editing a registry key, here is a .reg ready made for it:

Code:
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\FileSystem\]
"NtfsDisableLfsUpgrade"=dword:00000001

Set it back to 0 if you wish to revert the behavior.
 
But only z97 has that feature.
H97 as well. AsRock had a few "enthusiast" boards with M.2 slot that did both NVMe and M.2 SATA. And one of my older MSI H97M boards also did fine with M.2 to PCIe adapter.
I think it's only low-end H81 and B85 that need BIOS mods or bootloader workaround.
 
H97 as well. AsRock had a few "enthusiast" boards with M.2 slot that did both NVMe and M.2 SATA. And one of my older MSI H97M boards also did fine with M.2 to PCIe adapter.
I think it's only low-end H81 and B85 that need BIOS mods or bootloader workaround.
Well thanks, I'll give it a try someday.
 
Well this SSD business is getting more interesting and appealing by the minute! I think I am going to break down my Z97 for cleaning next week. Next I'm going to rest these weary SSHD's and disconnect them temporarily. I am looking at the M.2 PCIe NVMe 1 TB offerings. I plan on 32BG ( 8x4 ) of fast and currently inexpensive DDR3. I'm looking at a single boot setup with my first SSD. Fresh Install of Windows 10. My current 16GB 4x4 for starters and have the 32GB kit on hand for comparison. According to my Z97 manual, populating all 4 DIMM slots with 16 or 32GB shouldn't be an issue with the Z97 memory controller. I can also compare the speed difference between M.2 SATA 6GB/s and M.2 PCIe 2.0 x2. This follows the KISS plan for learning new hardware. I can also easily remove the M.2 SSD temporarily to plug the SSHD's back in to test them with memory configurations. I'm looking forward to taking the SSD plunge in the next couple of weeks. Thanks to all for the great input.:toast:
 
I am looking at the M.2 PCIe NVMe 1 TB offerings.
That will be a nice upgrade. Remember though, you're plugging a new drive into an older system with an older version of NVMe. While they're all backward compatible, do keep your performance expectation thus.
 
am looking at the M.2 PCIe NVMe 1 TB offerings.
Just get the cheapest one. You are still going to be limited by PCIe bandwidth (only two 2.0 lanes, e.g. expect max r/w under 1GB/s).
 
Optane in M.2x2, 128GB SATA SSD, .?!... HDD, xxGB DDR3 RAM
 
I'm looking forward to taking the SSD plunge in the next couple of weeks.
Before buying a new SSD how about just doing a clean Windows install on your current O/S SSHD & see how it performs. Bit-rot is real. :)
By clean install I mean delete all partitions off the drive, then new main partition & let Windows create its extra partitions, followed by the install.
 
Cheap it is, $60. ish for the SSD and $40. ish for a good fast 32GB DDR3
That will be a nice upgrade. Remember though, you're plugging a new drive into an older system with an older version of NVMe. While they're all backward compatible, do keep your performance expectation thus.

Just get the cheapest one. You are still going to be limited by PCIe bandwidth (only two 2.0 lanes, e.g. expect max r/w under 1GB/s).

kit. That ought to give this old Z97 a kick in the butt! 1GB/s with the pedal to the metal, lol. Thanks again.:rockout:

Before buying a new SSD how about just doing a clean Windows install on your current O/S SSHD & see how it performs. Bit-rot is real. :)
By clean install I mean delete all partitions off the drive, then new main partition & let Windows create its extra partitions, followed by the install.
The SSHD's will be part 2 of my plan. I hope to copy both drives to a 2TB storage drive. Then I can individually do clean install on one drive and unplug it. Then plug in the second drive and clean install on the second drive. This prevents Windows 10 from planting system files all over the place. That way I can test both drives independently for bit rot or any other issues. @nomdeplume . I looked at Optane for future testing this summer. Time will tell.
 
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Just get the cheapest one.
Oh, god no. They should get a drive of reasonable quality. Just because it's a secondary system does not mean it's worthless junk to be given poor consideration.

Cheap it is, $60. ish for the SSD and $40. ish for a good fast 32GB DDR3
Good prices for both. What drive did you have in mind? (you can copy/paste links here in the forums)
 
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Amazon has for $58.99

Crucial P3 1TB PCIe Gen3 3D NAND NVMe M.2 SSDhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B25LZGGW?tag=p00935-20&ascsubtag=00PEIo7TCxfgvQM67eHSijX&th=1​

 
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Isn't the Crucial P3 the slower of the g4x4 lot?
Last week I picked a pair of P310 for review and NVME RAID.
If you're at the point of adding M.2 to a secondary system...Make it count.
 
Amazon has for $58.99

Crucial P3 1TB PCIe Gen3 3D NAND NVMe M.2 SSDhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B25LZGGW?tag=p00935-20&ascsubtag=00PEIo7TCxfgvQM67eHSijX&th=1​

Oh hell yes! That's a very good drive. Good price too! Grab it enjoy! You should expect about 2100MBps(ish) out of it on your board.

Isn't the Crucial P3 the slower of the g4x4 lot?
The OP is putting that drive into an older system PCIe 3 system, so that doesn't matter.
 
You get what you put out. You're statement was flawed to begin with.
I wasn't rude to you though.

If my statement is flawed, then simply correct me. I would want to be corrected if I am ever incorrect, because my intention is to help others make what I believe is the best choice, and that doesn't happen if I give incorrect information. I do not have a problem with people correcting me if I am incorrect, but the rudeness wasn't needed.

We need to keep the bigger picture in mind. Someone was asking if extra RAM would be worthwhile for bringing performance improvements, and from there, further details (such as having an SSHD, and having slow boot) and alternative suggestions came forth. The two of us arguing about whether an SSHD can or can't be "good enough" for isolated, cherry picked scenarios is neither here nor there. All that matters is what change would bring the most improvement (and sometimes, the answer may be "no change is worthwhile, so save your money").

My stance, which is based entirely on information the thread starter put forth, is this...

Additional RAM will not help general performance or boot times, but an SSD likely will. Therefore, buying more RAM is a waste, but buying an SSD isn't. So if any change is made at all, that is the best place to do it.

From where I'm standing, that's not an incorrect statement?

You're overlooking the part about there being more to this than boot times, even if the slow boot was one example brought up. An SSHD with 8 GB of NAND and 1 TB of platter is still going to have the vast majority of its data on slow storage. Any data that ever needs fetched from that portion will be (up to) as slow as an HDD. Therefore, adding an SSD will be an improvement.
 
I wasn't rude to you though.
Ok, I'll accept that. It seemed that way based on the vocabulary chosen. It kinda felt like a "smack-down", which is very unlike you. Thought maybe I had offended you somehow.
You're overlooking the part about there being more to this than boot times, even if the slow boot was one example brought up. An SSHD with 8 GB of NAND and 1 TB of platter is still going to have the vast majority of its data on slow storage. Any data that ever needs fetched from that portion will be (up to) as slow as an HDD. Therefore, adding an SSD will be an improvement.
Didn't overlook it for even a moment. I'm well aware of the performance specifications of SSHDs. I'm not denying that a pure SSD would perform better over all, I was only saying that they're acceptable and usable. As the OP has not chosen a very good SSD for their system, it's now a moot point.

Try to remember that we live in a world that is in a state of economic uncertainty. Not everyone is made of money. Even though SSD's are cheap, if they don't have the money to spent, or don't have the extra money to spend... Sometimes people just need to use what they've got. If the OP needed to rely on that on that drive, I was only trying to reassure them that their experience would still be good.

That is the context and school of thought I deal with everyday and it is what I bring to these forums. I default to it unless I have a reason to believe the person seeking help can do whatever they'd like.

Sure it's a presumption, but it's one that defaults to helping people get the most out of what they have without pushing or pressuring them to spend more than they might have.
 
Honestly a $20 240GB SATA SSD as a boot drive would still have the same impact on such an old system, PCIE-2 NVME you will see almost 0 benefit real world benefit from SATA3 SSD drive, still not convinced on the whole argument of buying a 32GB DDR3 kit, seems unnecessary, 16GB should be more than plenty for most use cases unless OP is hitting that limit already and from what I can convey from the thread so far that isn't clear, none the less, a cheap NVME drive and (debatable) the RAM upgrade will keep this old system ticking along for another couple of years for what it is used for, one of the biggest and significant upgrades to older systems are moving to SSD from HDD, whilst not strictly the case as OP has SSHD, this will definitely improve boot times and OS snappiness and be "felt" more than more RAM, looking forward to updates :toast:
 
They should get a drive of reasonable quality.
Cheapest doesn't automatically mean bad quality. I'd only avoid all the no-name or suspicious chinese brands. Heck, even Intel 660p is good enough for that system. I'd even go as far as buying a used one. Lots of people replace their 660p in gaming laptops and sell them for even cheaper with barely any use(probably QLC-phobia is still a thing). Scored me two of those for ~$35/ea not too long ago(both under 2TBW!!!).
Crucial P3 1TB PCIe Gen3 3D NAND
This is a perfect example of what I'm talkin' 'bout :D
 
I'd only avoid all the no-name or suspicious chinese brands
Rocking 2 Fanxiang NVME drives for a couple of years now, both perform good at rated speeds and no degradation, over-heating, performance issues etc, albeit I think they are one of the more popular chinese drives and I would probably avoid the more obscure ones to save $5 on a TB drive, both of mine are DRAM-less also but I have done transfers of 500GB+ to and from each and with the SLC cache they perform really well up until about the 400GB spot, just my POV :rockout:
 
Ok, I'll accept that. It seemed that way based on the vocabulary chosen. It kinda felt like a "smack-down", which is very unlike you. Thought maybe I had offended you somehow.
Then I apologize for that! I definitely didn't intend it that way, but I'll try and keep in mind how I phrase things.

My main angle of approach was that someone had a system and seemed to be asking first if RAM was a worthwhile investment, and then later what would be the best investment (if any). So my thought process in response was that someone with 16 GB of RAM and not declaring they are using it all, probably doesn't need more, and that someone having long boots and an SSHD, probably would benefit from an SSD.

Can an SSHD be sufficient? Perhaps. But I would still do an SSD upgrade before a RAM upgrade in this particular case. I tend to give my PCs quite a bit of RAM for the time (8 GB in 2009, 16 GB in 2011, and 64 GB since 2020) so it's not like I would be shy of telling someone "sure, if you don't mind parting with the asking price then more RAM wouldn't hurt" because it's often a good way to extend a system, but I also know a lot of RAM is wasted if you're not utilizing/needing it, so I wouldn't suggest it as the best way to allocate funds in this particular case.

Edit: Also, back more on topic, if you're looking for an SSD to add and need SATA (I got lost on if NVMe would work here?), then I'd look for one with DRAM. SSDs without DRAM can work fine for certain uses, especially NVMe ones, but I wouldn't use a SATA one without DRAM for an OS drive. Unfortunately, manufacturers have moved away from making performance SATA drives so options are a bit limited. Western Digital Blue, Cricual MX500, and Samsung EVO 860 (not QVO) used be the three most common performance SATA drives. Might be some more I'm forgetting. I'd take whatever is the cheapest of those three.

If you're able to do NVMe, your options open up more and you won't need DRAM then since HMB can substitute for it a bit (but I'd personally still recommend it for an OS drive).
 
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