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Optimus Foundation CPU Block - AMD

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FINALLY!
Had an annoying few months when nothing was going right, least of all the swap over of cases and getting the Optimus block and co. up and running!
Did try my mounting method and it was as fiddly as hell, If your bolts were just 5mm or so longer i could have used the Noctua backplate for sure, as doesn't have any threaded ports through to the top of the PCB.
Anyway I did end up using your mounting and as I said if you wanted to you could include a backplate and just simply your bolts 5mm or so longer @Optimus Water Cooling
Not the best of pics, sorry


here's the lows n highs 69C high and a low of 33, but the water never went above 25C ? Is that how it's meant to be or is something AWOL?
EC_TEMP1 is the water temp after just exiting the pump then entering the block


And this is when under full load


Totally new to water cooling, in fact this is my very first build using it, so if I'm messing something up, Please let me know

Oh and @Optimus Water Cooling can I suggest that you look at the positioning of the holes on the bracket please?
I had to slightly loosen the back nut a fraction to allow the block to slip over the bolts

 
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here's the lows n highs 69C high and a low of 33

That is similar to my Raystorm Pro numbers with a 240. Not sure about my water temp. What are your ambients?
 
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Looks like the install on that block was a nightmare !
 
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That is similar to my Raystorm Pro numbers with a 240. Not sure about my water temp. What are your ambients?

about 23C

Looks like the install on that block was a nightmare !

Using their mounting bolts it was quite a straightforward procedure, just a tight fit, needs a bit more tolerance to my mind
 
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So my ambient is about 25-26c and my avg high is 68c and my peak max is 72-74c.

What do you have for a rad?
 
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So my ambient is about 25-26c and my avg high is 68c and my peak max is 72-74c.

What do you have for a rad?

believe it or not an Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm Radiator V.2 and a EKWB EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 PWM D-RGB Pump Reservoir - Plexi with a 250 tube (205mm)
 
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For a first time setup, that a nice bit of kit Mate !
 
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For a first time setup, that a nice bit of kit Mate !

Tankee! I've built before, but decades ago now, nothing like this of course. Still got Masses to learn, @Zach_01 has helped me a fair bit, as have others.
 
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LOL I hear ya mate! I just did my first hard tube build a couple of months ago. I was so scared to do it but it worked out well 1
 
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LOL I hear ya mate! I just did my first hard tube build a couple of months ago. I was so scared to do it but it worked out well 1

That will be my next target, although for that I'll want to WC the GPU as well. Flexible is good but hard just looks way better, want to get these temps down somewhat though first.
I like fairgrounds, lol

 
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That will be my next target, although for that I'll want to WC the GPU as well. Flexible is good but hard just looks way better, want to get these temps down somewhat though first.
I like fairgrounds, lol



Absolutely i agree! I love soft tube for the simplicity of ease of installation, changing components etc.. But, yes rigid tube looks way nicer !
 

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This is slightly related, in that it is about hard tubing. An interesting tool is used here and I don't know if any of you have considered it, it is a Harbor Freight "DRILL MASTER" 2 Inch Mini Bench Top Cut-Off Saw, for cutting tubes properly and it only costs $35 / £35


This is what i ended up buying for my first hard line build last week. Soooo much better and faster than using a hack saw. I used frosted acrylic tubing for mine.
 
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If I could get the lines to look like hard tubing I would, but you need so many angled adapters and to my way of thinking, each adapter is a potential point of failure you are adding into the equation
 
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This is what i ended up buying for my first hard line build last week. Soooo much better and faster than using a hack saw. I used frosted acrylic tubing for mine.

Yeas i have seen that and for acrylic tube its a great tool to use. I used PETG for my first build so mu cutter worked fine.

If I could get the lines to look like hard tubing I would, but you need so many angled adapters and to my way of thinking, each adapter is a potential point of failure you are adding into the equation

Yes, way too many adapters for soft tube is a waste of cost and time IMO. When your ready to try Rigid tube look me up for advice and ideas mate.
 
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That a custom PSU shroud? @lorry
 
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That a custom PSU shroud? @lorry

Well spotted! Cut it out of aluminium, two bends to form the basic shape (pretty much copied the idea from my cooler master H500M), then used that expanding Gorilla glue to seal the diagonal seam, sanded it down and then sprayed it. Had to cut it a bit afterwards as various cable routes changed a bit though


Yes, way too many adapters for soft tube is a waste of cost and time IMO. When your ready to try Rigid tube look me up for advice and ideas mate.

Will do, thanks. Won't be for a little while though as I'll need to save for the GPU block and that's not going to be cheap I know, around £100 plus most likely
 
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And this is when under full load


What do you mean by full load? What program(s) are you using to create the full load? I'm asking because I noticed differences in temperatures on my 3950X depending on the software used to create 100% CPU load. For example, Prime 95, Intel Burn Test, Encoding 4K 60 FPS video, 3D rendering, etc... all produce different temperatures at 100% CPU usage.
 
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What do you mean by full load? What program(s) are you using to create the full load? I'm asking because I noticed differences in temperatures on my 3950X depending on the software used to create 100% CPU load. For example, Prime 95, Intel Burn Test, Encoding 4K 60 FPS video, 3D rendering, etc... all produce different temperatures at 100% CPU usage.

Pretty sure that was Prime95, as that was what I was using that day I think
 
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I did a comparison of the Optimus Foundation AM4 block to the Corsair XC7 RGB CPU block in the same system.

When I built my open loop, the Optimus Foundation AM4 block I ordered was on back order. I wasn't going to wait an unknown amount of time for the CPU block to arrive to wait to finish the loop since it was the last part I ordered, so, I bought a Corsair XC7 RGB CPU block to use until the Optimus CPU block arrived. I figured I could resell the Corsair CPU block later.

My Optimus Foundation AM4 block arrived recently. Since I now have the two CPU blocks available, I decided to compare them in the same system. My open loop has EKWB quick disconnect fittings for the GPU blocks and CPU block. That way I can remove components to add NVMe SSDs, reach wiring connectors, or change components without draining the loop. It also makes it easy to fill the new parts with coolant when I swap parts.

The loop consists of a Corsair XD5 RGB pump/res combo, EKWB EK-CoolStream XE 360 360mm 60mm thick radiator with six 120mm fans in push pull, EKWB EK-CoolStream CE 280 280mm 45mm thick radiator with 2 140mm fans, and 2 GPU water blocks. GPUs were idle during the test. I use EKWB ZMT 10/16 tubing for the loop. I use EK Cryofuel Clear coolant. The system is in a Fractal Design Define R6 case with the front door open.

The rest of the system:
CPU: AMD Ryzen R9 3950X
Motherboard: MSI MEG ACE X570
RAM: 64GB DDR4 3600 MHz Corsair Vengance RGB PRO
GPUs: 2x EVGA RTX 2080 Super with EKWB GPU blocks

I ran Intel Burn Test, Prime 95 small FFT, and AIDA64 for over 20 minutes each with the Corsair CPU block installed and a fixed pump speed and fan speed. I recorded the temperatures in an Excel spreadsheet. Then I removed the Corsair block, swapped the tubing and fittings onto the Optimus block, and filled the optimums block and attached tubing with new coolant. I installed the Optimus Foundation AM4 block and tightened the thumb nuts by hand as tight as I could with my fingers, per their instructions earlier in this thread. After installing the Optimus Foundation AM4 block and making sure I had no air bubbles in the block by having the pump run at full speed as I moved the system around in various positions then I also varied the pump speed high and low with the system sitting on the desk.

I ran the same test for the same time period with the same fixed pump speed(3700 RPM) and same fixed fan speed(1800 RPM for 120mm fans and 1600 RPM for 140mm fans). Room temperature was controlled with the home central air conditioning system and a digital thermometer on my desk monitored ambient air temperatures. I used the same thermal paste(Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut) for both blocks.

These are my results:


Temperatures are in degrees Celsius.

I thought that maybe the Optimus AM4 block has higher flow resistance than the Corsair block and requires more coolant flow, so I set the pump to the maximum speed and ran the tests again. However, there was no difference in results. I expected a larger temperature difference between the two CPU blocks considering the design differences between the two blocks.
 

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I did a comparison of the Optimus Foundation AM4 block to the Corsair XC7 RGB CPU block in the same system...

Hey there, sounds like a good system :) And nice testing, love the accounting for variables!

So, yes, you should be seeing a pretty big difference between blocks. First, did you do any OC? I believe you can push it even harder and then you'll see a larger spread between blocks. Like really go nuts. If it's not OC and just stock, then your numbers make more sense.

As for other potential causes, people have reported that not all AMD CPUs are made the same. Some have mad TIM, some have wonky IHS, etc. Also, we've seen some damaged CPUs because of AMD's bad socket design. A lot of factors.

All that said, we can typically find the culprit. Please send pis of your system so we can get some eyes on it.
 
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I tried a 4.25 GHz all core overclock with the Optimus block and the CPU drew just under 220 watts running AIDA64 stability test before it hits the thermal limit. With Prime 95 it hits 286 watts and also hits the the thermal limit.

I tried a video format conversion in Handbrake converting a .ts file to H.265(the .ts file used for the handbrake benchmark on the Anandtech forums) and the CPU hit the thermal limit, yet the coolant temperature peaked at 31.6C at the end of the process. As soon as handbrake was finished, the CPU temperature dropped rapidly down to 45C.



That is with all fans at 100% and the pump at 3700 RPM. I tried the maximum RPM on the pump and it didn't make a difference in temperatures.

I'm going to take the block off and check the thermal paste spread then remount the block.

I have to charge my camera battery so that I can get good pictures.
 
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I tried a 4.25 GHz all core overclock with the Optimus block and the CPU drew just under 220 watts running AIDA64 stability test before it hits the thermal limit. With Prime 95 it hits 286 watts and also hits the the thermal limit.

I tried a video format conversion in Handbrake converting a .ts file to H.265(the .ts file used for the handbrake benchmark on the Anandtech forums) and the CPU hit the thermal limit, yet the coolant temperature peaked at 31.6C at the end of the process. As soon as handbrake was finished, the CPU temperature dropped rapidly down to 45C.



That is with all fans at 100% and the pump at 3700 RPM. I tried the maximum RPM on the pump and it didn't make a difference in temperatures.

I'm going to take the block off and check the thermal paste spread then remount the block.

I have to charge my camera battery so that I can get good pictures.

Can I suggest that you split the pictures up as well, currently they are unreadable even when zoomed 300%
 
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Can I suggest that you split the pictures up as well, currently they are unreadable even when zoomed 300%

Its one picture, a screenshot of a two monitor desktop. When I click on the picture and the magnifying glass in the upper right, its readable. I assumed others can read it also. Next time I'll do screenshots of the individual windows.
 
Joined
Dec 3, 2019
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Crawley
System Name 3900x
Processor AMD Ryzen 3900x
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Its one picture, a screenshot of a two monitor desktop. When I click on the picture and the magnifying glass in the upper right, its readable. I assumed others can read it also. Next time I'll do screenshots of the individual windows.

DOH!
DO you know I never noticed that!
I'd make a great witness, Not
 
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