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overheating issue

Joined
Oct 25, 2022
Messages
63 (0.07/day)
Processor Ryzen 5 5500
Motherboard ASUS Prime B450-Plus
Cooling 3x Inwin Saturn AS120 + 1x Aerocool Standard
Memory 2x8 GB XPG D50 3200 MHz - CL15
Video Card(s) Gigabyte Gaming OC RX 6600 XT
Storage WD Blue SATA SSD 1TB + 500GB Hitachi HDD
Display(s) GAMEON 144hz IPS 1080p
Case Aerocool Rift Tempered Glass
Power Supply MSI MAG A550BN
Hello, I'm here because my Ryzen 5 5500's been having massive heating problems for what is 6 months now. Ever since I built my computer... For some reason, my processor overheats to maniacal levels when doing even simple tasks, and it's around 40-45 degrees when I'm idle. It jumps to around 80 when I do something like launch google chrome. I've replaced the thermal paste several times, removed and reinserted the cooler (Massive cooler from a reputable company, deepcool) the same amount of times, and nothing has ever worked. Even a miniscule overclock will demolish my temperatures.

Please help me fix this, it's killing my frames and probably my processor as well.
 
Coolers may have a clear plastic film over the baseplate. Did you remember to check for that and remove it?
 
Check the RPM's of your fans, adjust in BIOS when needed.

Be sure your computer is able to suck cool air in from the front.
 
Check the RPM's of your fans, adjust in BIOS when needed.

Be sure your computer is able to suck cool air in from the front.
Both checked. My fans actually run super loud and I still face overheating.
Coolers may have a clear plastic film over the baseplate. Did you remember to check for that and remove it?
Yup. I'm not that much of a beginner.
 
After it jumps to 80 does it dissipate quickly or does it seem to take a long time to get back to the 40's?
Do you ever reach over 90c with anything cpu intensive?
Are you using PBO without limits or something other than default?
 
After it jumps to 80 does it dissipate quickly or does it seem to take a long time to get back to the 40's?
Do you ever reach over 90c with anything cpu intensive?
Are you using PBO without limits or something other than default?
Yes, it dissipates quickly. I have PBO on, here are the settings.
 

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If you install and open Ryzen Master it will tell you what limits you are currently using.
 
Yup. I'm not that much of a beginner.
Even distracted pros can make a rookie mistake. And no one here knows a posters' level of expertise or their experience so don't take offense if something suggested "sounds" condescending. We are just trying to help you help yourself - that means we need to ask questions, and not assume you are a pro.

I've replaced the thermal paste several times
Once TIM (thermal interface material) has been applied correctly "once", it should never need replacing again except when the cured bond between the heatsink and processor is broken. And that should be a very rare event too and would only happen if the entire case is abused (dropped or bounced during transport) or when the user removes the cooler, or sadly, when the user twists the cooler too hard to see if loose, breaking it loose in the process. Otherwise, unless that cured bond is broken, TIM will easily last many many years (10, 15 and longer!) and not need replacing just because x number of years has passed. The only reason TIM comes in a liquified format is so we can squeeze it out of the tube and spread it evenly across the die in a smooth layer. So even if it dries, the solid particles (the "active ingredients", if you will) left behind are still doing their job.

If a processor "needs" the few degrees of cooling a fresh application of TIM "might" provide to prevent crossing thermal protection thresholds, there are bigger cooling issues to deal with first.

That said, you say "several times" - did you thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of old TIM before applying new TIM?

Also, it is important to note that the purpose of TIM is to fill the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces to push out any insulating air that might get trapped within, and to prevent any insulating air from getting back in. The most efficient transfer of heat occurs with direct metal-to-metal contact. Therefore, any excess TIM is actually in the way and counterproductive to that heat transfer process.

So, did you ensure your TIM application was as thin as possible, while still providing complete coverage?

Also, it is important to note it is the case's responsibility to provide a sufficient supply of cool air flowing through the case. The CPU cooler need only toss the CPU's heat into that flow.

Typically, you want good "front-to-back" flow through the case. Are we dealing with this AeroCool Rift case listed in your specs? According to the specs, it has excellent fan support :) but only comes with a single 120mm fan in back! :( That's not good enough - especially with a bottom mounted PSU that has its own intake and exhaust vents.

Did you [hopefully] add more fans? What fans do you have and how are they oriented?

If you only have 1 or 2 120mm fans, that might be your easy to resolve problem. Add another fan to increase that desired front-to-back flow of air through the case.
 
Even distracted pros can make a rookie mistake. And no one here knows a posters' level of expertise or their experience so don't take offense if something suggested "sounds" condescending. We are just trying to help you help yourself - that means we need to ask questions, and not assume you are a pro.


Once TIM (thermal interface material) has been applied correctly "once", it should never need replacing again except when the cured bond between the heatsink and processor is broken. And that should be a very rare event too and would only happen if the entire case is abused (dropped or bounced during transport) or when the user removes the cooler, or sadly, when the user twists the cooler too hard to see if loose, breaking it loose in the process. Otherwise, unless that cured bond is broken, TIM will easily last many many years (10, 15 and longer!) and not need replacing just because x number of years has passed. The only reason TIM comes in a liquified format is so we can squeeze it out of the tube and spread it evenly across the die in a smooth layer. So even if it dries, the solid particles (the "active ingredients", if you will) left behind are still doing their job.

If a processor "needs" the few degrees of cooling a fresh application of TIM "might" provide to prevent crossing thermal protection thresholds, there are bigger cooling issues to deal with first.

That said, you say "several times" - did you thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of old TIM before applying new TIM?

Also, it is important to note that the purpose of TIM is to fill the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces to push out any insulating air that might get trapped within, and to prevent any insulating air from getting back in. The most efficient transfer of heat occurs with direct metal-to-metal contact. Therefore, any excess TIM is actually in the way and counterproductive to that heat transfer process.

So, did you ensure your TIM application was as thin as possible, while still providing complete coverage?

Also, it is important to note it is the case's responsibility to provide a sufficient supply of cool air flowing through the case. The CPU cooler need only toss the CPU's heat into that flow.

Typically, you want good "front-to-back" flow through the case. Are we dealing with this AeroCool Rift case listed in your specs? According to the specs, it has excellent fan support :) but only comes with a single 120mm fan in back! :( That's not good enough - especially with a bottom mounted PSU that has its own intake and exhaust vents.

Did you [hopefully] add more fans? What fans do you have and how are they oriented?

If you only have 1 or 2 120mm fans, that might be your easy to resolve problem. Add another fan to increase that desired front-to-back flow of air through the case.
Everytime I reapplied the thermal paste, I cleaned both the heatsink and the processor, ensuring no residue could ruin anything.

Yes, I tried to make sure I didn't apply too much or too little and that my application was even.

I am using the rift, yeah.

I purchased some fans when I built the PC, so I've got 3 intake in the front and 1 "outtake" in the back.
 
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Hi, I have the same AMD R5 5500. If you have PBO auto it´s normal to have peaks of 80° and come down quickly.
Also PBO in auto may apply too mucho vCore and thus the high temps.
You should use Ryzen Master as someone else recommended.
Check curve optimizer per core, it takes more time but is more precise.
Then Ryzen Master saves the config onto BIOS and done.
There are many tutorials on how to use it.
 
I don't know, how do I check?


Yo, I did some research. My PBO is automatic, so the computer determines these limits itself.
In my opinion the motherboard defaults might be stupid and arbitrary so don't rely on that. Optimally when enabling PBO you should plug in the defaults PPT, TDC, EDC for you chip and tweak the values from there rather than potentially let the motherboard apply unhinged limits. This way you can balance all core vs boot performance better as well as managing heat depending on what balance is most important to you.

If you install and open Ryzen Master it will tell you what limits you are currently using although I would advise setting limits in UEFI/BIOS and not though Ryzen Master. If you do tweak the limits in Ryzen Master be sure to exclude voltage control (to continue to let the CPU control the voltage). By default Ryzen Master tries to include manual voltage control so watch out about that.
 
Sigh, yet another thread from someone who doesn't understand how CPU temperatures work.
 
Alright, I used ryzen master on 'auto overclocking' and let it perform the stress test, surprisingly unlike usual (where my cpu would instantly jump to 90c and slowly increase till the pc crashed), it only ever got up to around 78c. i dont know if that's a win or not, cause i haven't benchmarked my processor to see the performance yet. How can I do that?

also, scratch what i said about being a beginner, i'm definitely a complete noob :p
 
it only ever got up to around 78c. i dont know if that's a win or not
Well, I'm not really a fan of stress or bench mark programs. Despite their claims, they do NOT represent the real world. But also, they put unrealistic expectations (and stress) on the users who may not truly understand the results, causing them to think there is a problem where none exist.

However, in your case, it is a win (or at least, not a loss) because 78° when the system is taxed is not "hot" at all.

so I've got 3 intake in the front and 1 "outtake" in the back.
This may actually be significantly unbalanced. :(

You typically want a "slight" over (positive) pressure, with a little more coming in front than going out the back. This slight over pressure helps insure the vast majority of the dirty/dusty air coming in is pushed through the intake air filters. With under (negative) pressure, a vacuum effect is created and that sucks dirty air in through every crack, crevice and data port :( too. Not good.

But too much "over" pressure can actually hinder the desired "flow" of air "through" the case as the incoming air cannot move out fast enough. It is like having a kink in a garden hose. So it can create pockets of stagnant air. Stagnant air sticks around long enough to heat up. Not good.

There are way too many variables for anyone, including me, to say this is your problem or this isn't your problem. Every computer is unique. Every case is different. The components inside are different. CPU fan orientation may be different. Even how the cables inside are managed can make a difference.

So individual experimenting is really the only way to determine what is best for your unique computer. If me, and I had your system and was concerned about heat, I would either disable one fan in front to see what happens, or move one of the front intakes to the back as an exhaust.

BTW, I really hate fan noise. So moving one of the fronts to the back might also cut down some noise too.
 
Alright, I used ryzen master on 'auto overclocking' and let it perform the stress test, surprisingly unlike usual (where my cpu would instantly jump to 90c and slowly increase till the pc crashed), it only ever got up to around 78c. i dont know if that's a win or not, cause i haven't benchmarked my processor to see the performance yet. How can I do that?

also, scratch what i said about being a beginner, i'm definitely a complete noob :p
Personally I don't really trust any auto overclocking but I used it before to get suggested curve optimizer settings to continue manual testing.

Ideally you want to benchmark at stock first so you have something to compare against as you try to optimize your system. There are a lot of tools you can use for example cinebench 7zip, cpu-z, etc...

Don't forget you also have to do stability testing in particular when using curve optimizer.

Here are some notes when using PBO that I keep in mind:
  • voltage control (let the cpu do it)
    • nothing else to say here
  • power limits (start with cpu defaults)
    • when tweaking too high EDC will kill boost clocks and add heat
    • lowing EDC a bit can lower heat but too low kills performance
    • there are sweet spots, each cpu is different
    • some UEFI/BIOS are buggered and certain combinations of PPT/TDC/EDC may not be respected so reboot use Ryzen master to confirm it's respecting your settings
    • there is this thing called the EDC bug but I forgot what it does
    • don't run unlimited power limits on boards with crappy VRM's
  • curve optimizer (a lot of testing)
    • you must test each core for crashing on light workloads
    • there are specific tools for testing CO that can be helpful
  • temperature limit (optional)
    • after a certain temp the CPU will reduce boosting (I don't remember what that temperature was)
  • final setting in UEFI/BIOS
    • this is the most reliable way to configure PBO
 
Hey guys, I was tinkering with my CPU and managed to improve it a bit with Ryzen Master with the curve optimizer, as well as testing the stability. No temperature or performance issues. massive issue though, my fans are insanely loud during any exhausting task. I don't know what to do as of now, as while I love the performance increase, the noise is just unbearable.

I heard what was said about the air pressure in the case, so I could try that later.
 
Hey guys, I was tinkering with my CPU and managed to improve it a bit with Ryzen Master with the curve optimizer, as well as testing the stability. No temperature or performance issues. massive issue though, my fans are insanely loud during any exhausting task. I don't know what to do as of now, as while I love the performance increase, the noise is just unbearable.

I heard what was said about the air pressure in the case, so I could try that later.
You could try setting fan curves.
 
Take off the glass panel on your case. That should solve most problems.
 
Hello, I'm here because my Ryzen 5 5500's been having massive heating problems for what is 6 months now. Ever since I built my computer... For some reason, my processor overheats to maniacal levels when doing even simple tasks, and it's around 40-45 degrees when I'm idle. It jumps to around 80 when I do something like launch google chrome. I've replaced the thermal paste several times, removed and reinserted the cooler (Massive cooler from a reputable company, deepcool) the same amount of times, and nothing has ever worked. Even a miniscule overclock will demolish my temperatures.

Please help me fix this, it's killing my frames and probably my processor as well.
Photos

The 5500 can be cooled by the wraith stealth, either you've got an antique design that has the exposed heatpipes with the huge gaps, or you've made an installation mistake - wrong offsets, wrong height... i've seen people leave the plastic cover over the heatpipes many times and even leave the AM4 backplate in when it was meant to be removed and jammed backplates on top of each other

Hi, I have the same AMD R5 5500. If you have PBO auto it´s normal to have peaks of 80° and come down quickly.
Also PBO in auto may apply too mucho vCore and thus the high temps.
You should use Ryzen Master as someone else recommended.
Check curve optimizer per core, it takes more time but is more precise.
Then Ryzen Master saves the config onto BIOS and done.
There are many tutorials on how to use it.
It's normal to spike to 80c for milliseconds under single threaded load on the wraith stealth with PBO on, but anything at all better for cooling (or with PBO off) and it should never, ever approach or pass 80c multithreaded
 
Photos

The 5500 can be cooled by the wraith stealth, either you've got an antique design that has the exposed heatpipes with the huge gaps, or you've made an installation mistake - wrong offsets, wrong height... i've seen people leave the plastic cover over the heatpipes many times and even leave the AM4 backplate in when it was meant to be removed and jammed backplates on top of each other
My cooler is a Deepcool AG400 WH, and I actually do remember something relating to that. There are many minor scratches on the bottom of the cooler (where the heatpipes make contact with the cpu), and that may be the problem at hand. What should I do?
 
My cooler is a Deepcool AG400 WH, and I actually do remember something relating to that. There are many minor scratches on the bottom of the cooler (where the heatpipes make contact with the cpu), and that may be the problem at hand. What should I do?
post some pictures.

if its minor, then the TIM will fill in the gap.
 

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Hi, I have the same AMD R5 5500. If you have PBO auto it´s normal to have peaks of 80° and come down quickly.
Also PBO in auto may apply too mucho vCore and thus the high temps.
You should use Ryzen Master as someone else recommended.
Check curve optimizer per core, it takes more time but is more precise.
Then Ryzen Master saves the config onto BIOS and done.
There are many tutorials on how to use it.
lmfao, are you using stock trash cooler? to get this thing heating to 80-s, you need massive overclock, which is again impossible due to poor chips binning lol...

This is after cleaning, by the way. Tell me if I did a bad job
what cooler model it is? check also cooler fixing plate, screws tightening torque etc.! well, the base looks very cheap and not efficient...
 
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