- Joined
- Mar 13, 2007
- Messages
- 856 (0.14/day)
- Location
- Eastern Tennessee
System Name | Firebird |
---|---|
Processor | Ryzen 7 1700X |
Motherboard | MSI X370 Titanium |
Cooling | Tt Water2.0 PRO (They use the same bracket as 3.0) |
Memory | G.Skill TridentZ 2x8GB 3200 15-15-15-35 B-Die (@3333 ATM) |
Video Card(s) | ASUS STRIX R9 390 8GB |
Storage | Too many. Samsung 750GB, 120GB 850 EVO, Seagate 1TB, Toshiba 1TB, OCZ 32GB Cache Drive |
Display(s) | Samsung 46" UN46D6050 1080P HDTV |
Case | Home-made tech bench. |
Audio Device(s) | ASUS Xonar Essence STX (I use HDMI though *cry*) |
Power Supply | CWT PUC1000V-S 1000W, Abee Supremer (import) 1200W currently used as primary. |
Mouse | Razer Copperhead (circa 2005) |
Keyboard | Tt Challenger Pro (AVOID! Keys wear super fast) |
Software | Win 10 Pro x64 |
Benchmark Scores | Meh. |
There's a fair amount of backstory to this, to help anyone who is up to the task of aiding me, if you want to skip it all though, third paragraph is where to start
So I'm running basically the same rig as my sig except I got a DFI LanParty UT NF4-DR Expert that was "bad" (would BSOD when trying to load or install an OS, which I also encountered upon getting it), which miraculously started working shortly after the rest of my PC did, long story short I pulled my PC out of storage and it wouldn't even post no matter what I did and then all of a sudden one day it worked like nothing had occured. Anyways I'd been previously toying with my Gigabyte board with trying to squeeze out more performance than previously, with little luck, and noticed a new BIOS was out and tried it. Got me thinking about trying to flash an older BIOS to that DFI board, and so I started to put some spare parts in it, enough to get it running. Well at first I was having problems getting it just to power on, but finally did, and was monkeying around in the BIOS before I went about flashing it (sadly no in-BIOS option to flash like GB had) when I thought it'd be interesting to run the built in version of MemTest and see if that caused any crashes. Well it didn't, and plugging in a spare HDD that had an OS on lead to a BSOD-free boot! So now I'm running this mobo
Since I knew two things about the components I have, being that the CPU can do 2.8ghz and the memory can stably do 450-480mhz (which I'm going to post on after this, as I've encountered a huge oddity) so with that knowledge I figured I'd see if this board offered any other hidden potential of the two since it gives a ton more voltage and tuning options... Well the first hiccup I got, which I didn't with the GB board, was crashing when bumping up the HTT (FSB if you will, even though yes it's not) randomly leads to a crash well below the max of either CPU or Mem, first one encountered was around 225mhz. Thought possibly was due to not dropping the HT from 5x to 4x, so I did and still happened. Well fine, I chucked in 220mhz in the BIOS and booted into windows where I continued on overclocking. The reason I do it in windows is A) I've had MUCH success doing it this way in the past, B) so much damn easier than moving it up a few MHZ via BIOS and testing, reboot, adjust, test. I use primarily A64Tweaker, SuperPi and Sandra, with SysTool tossed to change the QFS option (dunno wth it is lol) and nTune which is the only app I've found that lets you change the HT multiplier in Windows Anyways, the limit I've seemed to reach on the DFI board was a very sad 260mhz, far shy of what I expected given the ability to crank up the voltages on many more things than the GB allows which was able to hit 280mhz. That in itself is an oddity as apparently the HTT speed isn't really pushing anything like the FSB did, and one could theoretically run it at 500mhz with CPU multiplier of 4x and memory set at whatever divider required for 200mhz (DDR400) and it should run the same as if it was @ 200mhz 10x.... That left me wondering if it was my old and trusty Antec PSU finally showing it's 6+yr age lol That and it's only 430w which 410w being on the used rails AND that'd be it's "perfect circumstances" rating. So I wired up 300w I had laying around to take some load off....
I know there are 'proper' ways of doing dual PSU rigging, and a fair amount of them at that, but I am on the "cheap" right now, where $5 for a relay or $10-15 in other parts is just not feasible. So I what I did was just run the PWR_OK and PS_ON (green and brown, typically) into the PWR_OK and PS_ON of the Antec, which lets both turn on at the same time. I then pinned a few of the 300W wires in place of the Antec's, which were the last 4 of a 24pin ATX (as my Antec is only a 20pin which the GB board supported), the ATX12V and the EXTRA power header that uses a floppy molex. The Antec then supplies the 20pin ATX, the 2 HDDs, 1 CDRom and floppy. Video card is picked up by the 300W. This is where I get a bit confused: technically the 700W (600W max, to be fair) should be able to supply this rig fine, which it does, but the 5v rail voltage is STILL 4.65-4.7v. If I hot-wire just the 300W on with the computer off, while still plugged in, I get a reading of 5.02v which also has the computer in partial-on. By that, I mean there is power virtually everywhere, the Antec is basically also on (either the 300w is charging it making it seem on due to fans, or it actually is due to some weird phenomenon when voltage is sensed it auto kicks on), but the system is not running and the little DDR power LED (DFI thing) is also not on. If I leave the 300W hotwired and press the power button, the voltage stays over 5, the DDR light turns on BUT the system doesn't start. Once I remove the PWR_OK from PS_ON, the voltage drops to the ~4.7v and the system boots normally.
I just can't figure out what is up with the voltage drop. I tested this setup with the GB board a few weeks ago with the system running Intel Burn Test and GPUTool rendering, with the video card @ 635/830 and CPU/MEM @ 2.4 and 440, and I'm pretty damn certain it was reading over 5v... I've even bridged 2 molexs together between the Antec and 300W, in an attempt to equalize any load draw, but nothing seems to do the trick :\
Anyone know why I'm experiencing these voltages? I haven't tested the 3.3v rail, but BIOS is showing 3.3v on it, and 12v is showing 12.02v with a 12.12v reading off the Antec and a 11.92v reading off the 300W (as it's the one powering the additional ATX12V connector). I'm at a loss.
Sorry for rambling, just wanted to get out all the info I could, but I can understand if that might have lead some bits to being tricky to understand heh Be that the case, assuming anyone read all this, I'll be happy to clarify anything
Thanks
So I'm running basically the same rig as my sig except I got a DFI LanParty UT NF4-DR Expert that was "bad" (would BSOD when trying to load or install an OS, which I also encountered upon getting it), which miraculously started working shortly after the rest of my PC did, long story short I pulled my PC out of storage and it wouldn't even post no matter what I did and then all of a sudden one day it worked like nothing had occured. Anyways I'd been previously toying with my Gigabyte board with trying to squeeze out more performance than previously, with little luck, and noticed a new BIOS was out and tried it. Got me thinking about trying to flash an older BIOS to that DFI board, and so I started to put some spare parts in it, enough to get it running. Well at first I was having problems getting it just to power on, but finally did, and was monkeying around in the BIOS before I went about flashing it (sadly no in-BIOS option to flash like GB had) when I thought it'd be interesting to run the built in version of MemTest and see if that caused any crashes. Well it didn't, and plugging in a spare HDD that had an OS on lead to a BSOD-free boot! So now I'm running this mobo
Since I knew two things about the components I have, being that the CPU can do 2.8ghz and the memory can stably do 450-480mhz (which I'm going to post on after this, as I've encountered a huge oddity) so with that knowledge I figured I'd see if this board offered any other hidden potential of the two since it gives a ton more voltage and tuning options... Well the first hiccup I got, which I didn't with the GB board, was crashing when bumping up the HTT (FSB if you will, even though yes it's not) randomly leads to a crash well below the max of either CPU or Mem, first one encountered was around 225mhz. Thought possibly was due to not dropping the HT from 5x to 4x, so I did and still happened. Well fine, I chucked in 220mhz in the BIOS and booted into windows where I continued on overclocking. The reason I do it in windows is A) I've had MUCH success doing it this way in the past, B) so much damn easier than moving it up a few MHZ via BIOS and testing, reboot, adjust, test. I use primarily A64Tweaker, SuperPi and Sandra, with SysTool tossed to change the QFS option (dunno wth it is lol) and nTune which is the only app I've found that lets you change the HT multiplier in Windows Anyways, the limit I've seemed to reach on the DFI board was a very sad 260mhz, far shy of what I expected given the ability to crank up the voltages on many more things than the GB allows which was able to hit 280mhz. That in itself is an oddity as apparently the HTT speed isn't really pushing anything like the FSB did, and one could theoretically run it at 500mhz with CPU multiplier of 4x and memory set at whatever divider required for 200mhz (DDR400) and it should run the same as if it was @ 200mhz 10x.... That left me wondering if it was my old and trusty Antec PSU finally showing it's 6+yr age lol That and it's only 430w which 410w being on the used rails AND that'd be it's "perfect circumstances" rating. So I wired up 300w I had laying around to take some load off....
I know there are 'proper' ways of doing dual PSU rigging, and a fair amount of them at that, but I am on the "cheap" right now, where $5 for a relay or $10-15 in other parts is just not feasible. So I what I did was just run the PWR_OK and PS_ON (green and brown, typically) into the PWR_OK and PS_ON of the Antec, which lets both turn on at the same time. I then pinned a few of the 300W wires in place of the Antec's, which were the last 4 of a 24pin ATX (as my Antec is only a 20pin which the GB board supported), the ATX12V and the EXTRA power header that uses a floppy molex. The Antec then supplies the 20pin ATX, the 2 HDDs, 1 CDRom and floppy. Video card is picked up by the 300W. This is where I get a bit confused: technically the 700W (600W max, to be fair) should be able to supply this rig fine, which it does, but the 5v rail voltage is STILL 4.65-4.7v. If I hot-wire just the 300W on with the computer off, while still plugged in, I get a reading of 5.02v which also has the computer in partial-on. By that, I mean there is power virtually everywhere, the Antec is basically also on (either the 300w is charging it making it seem on due to fans, or it actually is due to some weird phenomenon when voltage is sensed it auto kicks on), but the system is not running and the little DDR power LED (DFI thing) is also not on. If I leave the 300W hotwired and press the power button, the voltage stays over 5, the DDR light turns on BUT the system doesn't start. Once I remove the PWR_OK from PS_ON, the voltage drops to the ~4.7v and the system boots normally.
I just can't figure out what is up with the voltage drop. I tested this setup with the GB board a few weeks ago with the system running Intel Burn Test and GPUTool rendering, with the video card @ 635/830 and CPU/MEM @ 2.4 and 440, and I'm pretty damn certain it was reading over 5v... I've even bridged 2 molexs together between the Antec and 300W, in an attempt to equalize any load draw, but nothing seems to do the trick :\
Anyone know why I'm experiencing these voltages? I haven't tested the 3.3v rail, but BIOS is showing 3.3v on it, and 12v is showing 12.02v with a 12.12v reading off the Antec and a 11.92v reading off the 300W (as it's the one powering the additional ATX12V connector). I'm at a loss.
Sorry for rambling, just wanted to get out all the info I could, but I can understand if that might have lead some bits to being tricky to understand heh Be that the case, assuming anyone read all this, I'll be happy to clarify anything
Thanks