PSU Makes random Noise Sounds

[CoffeeAddicted]

noise sounds : 0:00 0:23 0:26
due to my bad camera and mic you might not hear the noise so please ENABLE the Loudness Equalization
Open up Sound in the Control Panel (under "Hardware and Sound"). Then highlight your speakers or headphones, click Properties, and select the Enhancements tab. Check "Loudness Equalization" and hit Apply to turn this on
==========================================
the sound is actually loud and it's very annoying
i can hear this while the PC is TURNED OFF !
my power supply : www.green-case.com/products/power/GP600A-HP.html
Spec : 1060 GTX
Ram Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB 8GBx2 3000Mhz
MSI B250 GAMING PRO
Intel® Core™ i5-7500

 

[dorsetknob]

Played at full vol heard kids in background but no strange sounds from Psu

i can hear this while the PC is TURNED OFF !

Is it still under warranty if so seek to RMA

 

[Nuckles56]

I heard like a buzz noise at 0:23 and 0:26, but that's all, my guess is that it is coil wine, but I'm really not sure
It's a pretty average unit to be honest, and with you hardware, I think you should be looking for a better quality 550W PSU for your rig

 

[Bill_Bright]

I didn't hear anything - except a "click" at 1 second but I cannot tell where it came from. Do note that while the PC may be turned off, ATX compliant power supplies are still supplying +5Vsb standby voltages to several points on the motherboard.

What sound do you hear? You really need to isolate the supply from the computer to make sure the sound is really coming from the supply. If the sound is not obvious, it is unlikely you will get a replacement via RMA.

Are your voltages good? You might use HwInfo64. Check "Sensors only" then "Run" and look under your motherboard. According the ATX Form Factor standard, PSUs must maintain voltage tolerances within ±5% of required specifications.

Acceptable Tolerances:

12VDC ±5% = 11.4 to 12.6VDC
5VDC ±5% = 4.75 to 5.25VDC
3.3VDC ±5% = 3.14 to 3.47VDC
​

 

[Komshija]

The sound doesn't appear so loud. The noise can be described as "loud" if it's as loud as defragmenting HDD, but it certainly isn't loud if you can barely hear it some 20-30 cm from the case. If it's the other one and if the voltages are OK, just forget about it.

Anyways, it sounds to me like something is short-circuiting. It doesn't have to be that, but I would check whether all the cables are attached properly (firmly) and whether there is any moisture in the room - especially near the electrical equipment.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Anyways, it sounds to me like something is short-circuiting.

Umm, short circuits don't make noise - unless there is actual arcing (sparks flying).

The sound doesn't appear so loud. The noise can be described as "loud" if it's as loud as defragmenting HDD, but it certainly isn't loud if you can barely hear it some 20-30 cm from the case.

None of us here can determine if any noise is loud or not because there are too many variables. The ambient noise levels in the OP's home, gain of the microphone, gain of amps in our speakers, ambient noise levels in our rooms, our own hearing and more.

But regardless, a power supply should not make any noise whatsoever when in standby mode - that is, when the computer is shutdown or asleep, but the power supply is still plugged into the wall and (if so equipped) the master power switch on the back of the supply is set to on (or 1).

 

[EsaT]

I heard like a buzz noise at 0:23 and 0:26, but that's all, my guess is that it is coil wine, but I'm really not sure
It's a pretty average unit to be honest, and with you hardware, I think you should be looking for a better quality 550W PSU for your rig

Maybe something could be sending some transient/momentary interference to power line to cause momentary coil whine in line filtering stage.

With the amount of reviews available from PSUs of that manufacturer calling them as average might be overly "optimistic".
Anyway 37 month guarantee is ridiculously short for advertised as quality PSU.

Played at full vol heard kids in background but no strange sounds from Psu

I think someone was also driving car...

 

[CoffeeAddicted]

Before recording this clip, I removed the(VGA/HDD ....) cables from the power supply,me and everyone near the PC can hear the noise sound.The noise is quite loud and annoying !
here's the result from the HW

 

[EsaT]

Software readings can't be considered accurate/reliable without check using multimeter.
And anyway if noise is present even when PC isn't powered, it can't have anything to do with PSU's main rails.

But 5V standby is operating always when PSU is getting power.
So that could have some coil whine.

Before recording this clip, I removed the(VGA/HDD ....) cables from the power supply

Did you detach also main ATX and CPU power cables from motherboard?

 

[CoffeeAddicted]

Did you detach also main ATX and CPU power cables from motherboard?

yeah,everything ! all cables
Is the power supply in the current state dangerous?

 

[Bill_Bright]

Software readings can't be considered accurate/reliable without check using multimeter.

But they are better than nothing. And even with a multimeter, they cannot be considered "accurate/reliable" unless checked under a full variety of expected loads. And of course, most multimeters cannot test for ripple or other anomalies either that affect output stability. So the only true way to accurately and reliably test a PSU is with an oscope under a full range of loads, or a dedicated power supply analyzer.

Short of those sophisticated and expensive test equipment, there's swapping in a known good spare supply, a PSU Tester (which only use a small 10Ω "dummy load" - not a variety of loads - and they cannot test for ripple either). Or use a decent HW monitoring program, of which HWiNFO64 is the best, IMO.

and everyone near the PC can hear the noise sound.The noise is quite loud and annoying !

Then you have little choice if you cannot put up with the noise - you need to replace the power supply. In some cases, coil whine is caused by loose inductor windings or transformer plates vibrating and a simple dab of hot glue or epoxy resin can fix it. Other times the source of the vibration cannot be located, or fixed. Typically, no harm is caused by such whine since it is physical in nature. Over time, it may get louder, or go away.

I once had a server I kept in the furnace room where the PSU had a coil whine that lasted over 5 years and never caused any problems. It only bothered the dog when he followed me into that room. But I admit, if it was my personal computer used in normal living spaces, I could not put up with it for long.

IMO you should shop around for another power supply then save this one for testing fans, drive motors and/or as a maintenance spare.

 

[EsaT]

a PSU Tester (which only use a small 10Ω "dummy load" - not a variety of loads - and they cannot test for ripple either).

Because of inability to tell anything about ripple or even voltages under meaningfull load those PSU "testers" can be very misleading.
Hence that money is better spent on getting multimeter.
Which can at least be used for measuring 12V when PC is powered (and PSU under some load) and also for other things.
Though all black excrement fashion cabling without colour coding introduced by Corsair makes nowadays necessary to check connector pin out.
(whoever marketroid invented it would get "R Lee Ermey" speech from me)

As for BIOS/software readings month or two ago in Finnish PC forum there was case of those insisting 3.3V being 3½, 5V being at 7 and 12V at 13½...

 

[John Naylor]

1. You can usually localize noise by using an empty paper towel tube held against your ear and moving it around inside the case.

2. It's not a high or even mid tier PSU, but if it's not exhibiting issues, see no reason to change it inless using better componentry and overclocking

3. The ATX spec allows 5% voltage variation which is fine for a stock box. But for moderate OC'ing you'll want to be ariynd 2.0 - 2.5% and for serious overc locking, < 1.0 %

4. Using a software utility to determine voltages is always a logical step. In 25 years, I have mot seen more than a couple of instances where they varied significantly. If I get a bad reading, I check it to confirm it's real and not an issue of a out of date utility.

Here's a quality replacement for $35

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TgW9TW/seasonic-power-supply-m12ii520bronze

 

[Bill_Bright]

Because of inability to tell anything about ripple or even voltages under meaningfull load those PSU "testers" can be very misleading.
Hence that money is better spent on getting multimeter.

I disagree. It takes no technical knowledge to use one of those testers. It is true they cannot conclusively tell you the PSU is working properly, but they can easily tell you if a rail is missing a voltage, out of tolerance, or the PSU is not working at all. I keep that one in my tool bag for house calls. Those testers are also great for bench testing fans and drive motors. Plug PSU into the tester and the PSU fires up. No jumpers to short. No need to worry about polarities either.

A multimeter requires the user to know which pins to insert the probes into, and what to expect. And as mentioned, cannot conclusively test either as they do not test for ripple, etc. To test all the necessary voltages are being delivered to the motherboard, and to test under a variety of loads requires the user to stick highly conductive and very sharp probes deep into the heart of the computer where one small slip can gouge a Grand Canyon size trench (microscopically speaking) across several traces on the motherboard.

Hence that money is better spent on getting multimeter.
Which can at least be used for measuring 12V when PC is powered (and PSU under some load) and also for other things.

What goes is that when a missing 5V or missing 3.3V will prevent a computer from booting too?

It is a mistake to assume a PSU is working properly just because 12V is present.

If you know how to properly use a multimeter, how to set the necessary buttons and dials and ranges, and you know what to expect and most importantly, how to use the meter safely so you don't zap yourself, the meter or your computer, then sure a meter can be a very valuable piece of test equipment - for computers and many other things. But for PCs, so can one of those testers, which don't require any knowledge of electronics, electrical safety, or expected results.

4. Using a software utility to determine voltages is always a logical step. In 25 years, I have mot seen more than a couple of instances where they varied significantly.

Except for Speccy. Which is too bad because otherwise, Speccy is an excellent HW information and monitoring program. But sadly, it often did poorly with voltages.

For example, with this Gigabyte board, it showed the following:

+3.3V = 2.028 V
+5.0V = 3.367 V
+12V = 0.048 V​

If any of those were true, this computer would not be running. Hmmm, I just upgraded Speccy to the latest version v1.32.740 and it no longer reports on those voltages. I guess they couldn't sort the problem out.

 

[CoffeeAddicted]

i'm gonna buy this PSU tomorrow Cooler Master V650 - Semi-Modular 650W 80 PLUS Gold Certified

 

[eidairaman1]

When in doubt, send it back. Get your money back.

 

[CoffeeAddicted]

i did assembled the system again and sound stopped i don't why !

 

[Bill_Bright]

Perhaps the sound was coming from a case or CPU fan hitting a fan blade. Or something was loose and got tightened when re-assembled. Anyway, I hope the noise stays away. I hate unexplained noises. I recently got a new ice maker in my 10 year old refrigerator and am not used to the strange noises it makes. Drives me crazy.

 

[eidairaman1]

Perhaps the sound was coming from a case or CPU fan hitting a fan blade. Or something was loose and got tightened when re-assembled. Anyway, I hope the noise stays away. I hate unexplained noises. I recently got a new ice maker in my 10 year old refrigerator and am not used to the strange noises it makes. Drives me crazy.

Because you are oc there dude.

 

[Bill_Bright]

LOL