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PSU question

BriVic

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We built a computer from cyber power pc (yes I know I should build my own, but I don't have time nor do I know how to do so and don't have time to learn). We realized that getting a standard psu isn't the way to go once it was too late and couldn't be changed. So truly how bad do you think this psu will be? Should I try to change it out myself (again don't know how and don't have time but if it's going to break my pc then I will have to do something). Here's my build.


  • CARE1: Ultra Enhanced Packaging Solution - Protect Your Dream System During Transit [+19]
  • CARE2: CPU Thermal Compound - Our Cooler Master MASTERGEL High Performance Thermal Compound can improve cooling performance as well as prolong the life of your CPU. [+10]
  • CAS: CyberPowerPC AURON ARGB Mid-Tower Gaming Case w/ Tempered Glass Window + 6X 120mm ARGB Fans [-23] (White Color)
  • CC: None
  • COOLANT: None
  • CPU: Intel® Core™ Processor i9-10900KF 10/20 3.70GHz [Turbo 5.2GHz] 20MB Cache LGA1200 [w/o Integrated Graphic] (Comet Lake-S) [-160]
  • CS_FAN: 3X 120mm APEVIA 120mm Addressable RGB 1200RPM Fans w/ Hub + Remote Controller [+29]
  • EVGA_POWER: None
  • FAN: CyberpowerPC MasterLiquid Lite 240mm ARGB CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump & Copper Cold Plate (Intel)
  • HDD: 1TB WD Black SN750 Series PCIe NVMe M.2 SSD - Seq R/W: Up to 3470/3000 MB/s, Rnd R/W up to 515/560k [+28] (Single Drive)
  • HDD2: None
  • IUSB: Built-in USB Ports (Based on motherboard and case selection)
  • MEMORY: 16GB (8GBx2) DDR4/3200MHz Memory [-40] (Team T-Force Delta RGB)
  • MOTHERBOARD: ASUS PRIME Z490-V ATX, ARGB, 1GbE LAN, 2 PCIe x16, 4 PCIe x1, 4 SATA3, 2x M.2 SATA/PCIe + WiFi 6 Intel 201AX
  • NETWORK: Onboard Gigabit LAN Network
  • OS: Windows 10 Home (64-bit Edition)
  • OVERCLOCK: No Overclocking
  • POWERSUPPLY: 1,000 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Gold Power Supply
  • PRO_WIRING: None
  • PROMOSALE1: CyberPowerPC FPS Gaming Mouse Pad [+0]
  • SERVICE: 3 Years FREE Service Plan (INCLUDES LABOR AND LIFETIME TECHNICAL SUPPORT)
  • SLI_BRIDGE: None
  • SOUND: HIGH DEFINITION ON-BOARD 7.1 AUDIO
  • TUNING: None
  • USBHD: None
  • USBX: None
  • VIDEO: GeForce RTX™ 3080 10GB GDDR6X (Ampere) [VR Ready] (Single Card)
  • WARRANTY: STANDARD WARRANTY: 1 Year Parts
 
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It's an 80 Plus Gold PSU, so it's not going to be a turd, regardless of the brand, as you don't get that kind of efficiency out of a turd.
 
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We realized that getting a standard psu isn't the way to go
Huh? What does that even mean?

"Standard" means it must comply with the "ATX" Form Factor industry "standard". That is so it will be compatible with ATX motherboards and ATX cases. That is, it will have all necessary industry standard connectors, supply all the necessary industry standard voltages, and physically fit inside the case. That ASUS PRIME Z490-V motherboard is "ATX" standards compliant. That AURON ARGB Mid-Tower Gaming Case is ATX compliant. You don't specify the maker of that power supply but there is no doubt it is ATX compliant too.

In terms of power, 1000W is way WAY more than you need (and I even added extra padding to those results). But that hurts nothing but your budget. And as TheLostSwede notes, being Gold certified means it will be very efficient.

So what's the problem?
 
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It's an 80 Plus Gold PSU, so it's not going to be a turd, regardless of the brand, as you don't get that kind of efficiency out of a turd.
It's the ATNG special time! Someone needs to create a gif for that to the tune of peanut butter jelly time!


So truly how bad do you think this psu will be? Should I try to change it out myself (again don't know how and don't have time but if it's going to break my pc then I will have to do something). Here's my build.
The oem cyberpower/ibuypower typically use is ATNG (aka I horng power) known for their cheapness but it will work simply because you won't be pulling anywhere near 1k watts from that PSU.
 
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BriVic

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Huh? What does that even mean?

"Standard" means it must comply with the "ATX" Form Factor industry "standard". That is so it will be compatible with ATX motherboards and ATX cases. That is, it will have all necessary industry standard connectors, supply all the necessary industry standard voltages, and physically fit inside the case. That ASUS PRIME Z490-V motherboard is "ATX" standards compliant. That AURON ARGB Mid-Tower Gaming Case is ATX compliant. You don't specify the maker of that power supply but there is no doubt it is ATX compliant too.

In terms of power, 1000W is way WAY more than you need (and I even added extra padding to those results). But that hurts nothing but your budget. And as TheLostSwede notes, being Gold certified means it will be very efficient.

So what's the problem?
It's cyber powers brand.
 
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That does not mean it is non-standard. Rosewill, for example, is a Newegg brand. They sell Rosewill power supplies and some are even very good.
 
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That does not mean it is non-standard. Rosewill, for example, is a Newegg brand. They sell Rosewill power supplies and some are even very good.
out of coincidence, ATNG makes PSU for rosewill including their value series and go-green or eco-green series (something along that line, too lazy to check the newegg site)
 
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Neither ATNG is an "awful" OEM nor Gold definitely means the PSU is good, but like, in this case of OEM using a Gold unit - it is probably good.

If you go about buying some random cheapo Gold PSU yourself, there is still a chance you might get a really bad PSU full of lying specifications. Such as a crap quality design not even capable of Silver.

As for ATNG, they have made some decent Silver units and such actually back some 5-10 years ago. They go a good time back as far as PSU production goes, and most OEMs back then didn't really make PSUs as good as today.
 
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It's an 80 Plus Gold PSU, so it's not going to be a turd, regardless of the brand, as you don't get that kind of efficiency out of a turd.
But that hurts nothing but your budget. And as TheLostSwede notes, being Gold certified means it will be very efficient.
One thing to keep in mind is EPRI does all their testing at "23c +/-5c". A case with a power hungry video card like like the RTX 3080 can easily hit 40c, 45c, or higher. At that point the "gold" PSU can be giving you bronze numbers. Without getting our hands on that exact PSU or cyberpower telling us their OEM (doubtful) we can only assume the OEM is still ATNG (don't see any evidence why it still isn't). Looking at EPRI's 80 plus web site, ATNG has two 1000w gold PSU that passed testing, both in 2009 and one just barely (only by rounding up did it pass 20% & 100%).
 
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We don't exactly know what design it is or whether it is even ATNG though, so yeah, it could be anything really. Best idea might be physically looking into the unit without opening it. However, you still have to know what you're looking at and whether the OP would understand it in this case is questionable. Actually, even directing a flashlight might only get you so far considering you know what you're looking at, if you do need to power heavy components.
 
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One thing to keep in mind is EPRI does all their testing at "23c +/-5c". A case with a power hungry video card like like the RTX 3080 can easily hit 40c, 45c, or higher. At that point the "gold" PSU can be giving you bronze numbers. Without getting our hands on that exact PSU or cyberpower telling us their OEM (doubtful) we can only assume the OEM is still ATNG (don't see any evidence why it still isn't). Looking at EPRI's 80 plus web site, ATNG has two 1000w gold PSU that passed testing, both in 2009 and one just barely (only by rounding up did it pass 20% & 100%).
I don't remember saying it was a great PSU, but at 1000W and with a gold rating, it can't be a total turd either, can it?
I have zero experience with ATNG, but are you claiming that these PSUs are so bad that the system wouldn't work? I mean, c'mon, I haven't seen a really shitty PSU in years now.
Yes, it's not going to be fantastic, but I've tested PSUs back in the day that nearly fried the test equipment. I've also tested units with passive PFC that started vibrating around the table at 85% load and failed at 100% load. These kind of things simply don't seem to happen any more.
 
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We don't exactly know what design it is or whether it is even ATNG though, so yeah, it could be anything really.
Well we know cyberpower used ATNG to make their 1000w gold standard PSU for a number of years and the spec sheet from the 80 plus test matches the cyberpower web site spec sheet (but that can also be laziness) so it stands to reason it's still ATNG or a similar OEM type product.

I don't remember saying it was a great PSU, but at 1000W and with a gold rating, it can't be a total turd either, can it?
I have zero experience with ATNG, but are you claiming that these PSUs are so bad that the system wouldn't work?
No, I'm not saying anything about the PSU since it's never been independently tested outside the 80 plus test. My point is more that there is a possibility that PSU may not be giving the OP 80 plus gold efficiency in his set up.
 
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I don't think that would matter a whole lot though, I mean, the PSU could be giving about Silver but still perform well and be built decently enough. Chances are it would survive that way even with some Teapo caps thrown in there, and he should have the pre-built warranty anyway.
 
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No, I'm not saying anything about the PSU since it's never been independently tested outside the 80 plus test. My point is more that there is a possibility that PSU may not be giving the OP 80 plus gold efficiency in his set up.
Sure, that's fair. However, I doubt the OP has to worry about his system not working because he has some random 1000W PSU in it. Even with those parts, he shouldn't be hitting more than ~80% load unless there's some serious overclocking involved.
 
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We realized that getting a standard psu isn't the way to go once it was too late and couldn't be changed. So truly how bad do you think this psu will be? Should I try to change it out myself (again don't know how and don't have time but if it's going to break my pc then I will have to do something). Here's my build.
1. What specifically makes a PSU standard ?

2. "1,000 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Gold Power Supply " tells you 2 things:

a) Someone decided that it was going to have a sticker on it saying it was rated for 1,000 watts
b) Someone decided it was going to have a sticker on it saying it was rated 80 Plus Gold

If you read PSU reviews, you will find that some products do not meet their wattage ratings nor their 80 Plus ratings. Nowadays Gold is pretty much "standard". All either of these ratings tell you is that the PSI is supposed to deliver 1000 watts and Gold defines how much electricity it will consume by doing that, some to prove out. It does not tell you that it does the job well, how much voltage stability it provides, how much electrical noise, how much acoustic noise. You need to know the make and model as well as the location of a trusted review site that has bench tested it to get this info ... or spend 5 figures building your own test bench... :)

3. For our builds we look at PSUs based upon how the PSU will be used:

a) Base level ... Mom keeps her recipies and face times her friends, light duty office PC, stock no OC builds
b) Workstation and Gaming focused machines at stock sup to medium overclock
c) As in item b) above but overclocked "bawlz to the wall"

This will have an effect on wattage as as well as importance of stability / noise. PSUs tend to drop in voltage stability and have increased noise, the closer one gets to their rated output. After calculating electrical, load for a) category, we're content with +50 watts added. For b), we look for the PSU to have around 20 - 25% headroom ... for c) will look for solutions with 33 - 50% headroom. In the later case, the concerns include the fact that PSUs are most efficient at 50% load and at rated loads the fan speed will be maxed, and likely audible. At lower loads the fans might not even be on. So if quiet is a thing, a fan at 0 rpm is a worthy goal.

4. From Guru 3D .... using the MSI Gaming X Trio, they calculated the card's power consumption at 359 watts. TPU measured 385 watts ...
That averages 372 ... add 125 for CPU, 10 RAM, 10 Storage, 35 MoBo, 10 cooler, 30 watts USB and fans ... gets you to around 600 watts so the +50 works for a) cetegory. I'd use a 750 for a b) category and and 850 for a c) category.


Here is our power supply recommendation:
  • GeForce RTX 3070 - On your average system we recommend a 550 Watt power supply unit.
  • GeForce RTX 3080 - On your average system we recommend a 650 Watt power supply unit.
  • GeForce RTX 3090 - On your average system we recommend a 750 Watt power supply unit.

5. The PSU should not be affected by what's inside the case.n Well I recently was shocked to see an RGB PSU which since the RGB comes from the fab, the fan must be on top. This is contrary to sound thermal design which calls for the intake side of the PSU to face the bottom (or side or top) so that it can suck in outside air and expel it out the rear of th case .

Other comments:

A. I hope where it says "Coolant: None ... they mean other than what is installed in the AIO :)

B. If the box needs a PSU that is non standard, why not other parts ?

- 1 TB total storage ... Have had boxes on your test bench were user had OS on'y on 120 GN SSD and asked me to clean it cause it was full ... same with 250 GB SSD that held OS and Programs. With a 1 TB SSD, allocating 250 GB for OS, Programs and data / phone backups, That's only 750 GB of storage ... most modern games will use from 50 to 100 GB or more. You'll be running outta space at some point. If additiona; SSD storage is a budget breaker, we use 2 TB SSHDS ... they scored 2.5 times as fast in THGs Gaming Benchmark as a WD Blue. They have same 5 year warranty and lower RMA rate than the 2 TB WD Black while costing less.
 
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Well yeah, he'll obviously need to live with about 1 TB space, though he might add an external SSD or something. USB 4k read/write speeds are garbage, but it might be better than living with limited space.

I think I'd be more worried about those fans and maybe that AIO failing after the 1st year of warranty.

As for the wattage measurement, I'd put in that what you tried to round up is like a PEAK consumption for a time, he won't consistently pull over 600W in games especially with frame sync, you're definitely looking at less. Though, these Ampere GPUs do have some spikes which is the bot side of things. But meh, he should be fine for the most part.
 
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