- Joined
- Jan 3, 2007
- Messages
- 454 (0.07/day)
| System Name | celer |
|---|---|
| Processor | Pentium 4 650 3.4GHz 2MB L2 |
| Motherboard | MSI PM8M3-V |
| Cooling | Thermalright SI-128 SE |
| Memory | 2048MB OCZ 2-3-2-5 2T at 200Mhz |
| Video Card(s) | Sapphire Radeon R9100 |
| Storage | 250G Samsung 850 PRO (MZ-7KE256BW) - 1024G WD Black (WD1003FZEX) |
| Display(s) | 19' iiyama ProLite E1980SD 1280x1024 75Hz DVI |
| Case | Eurocase moded |
| Audio Device(s) | onboard |
| Power Supply | Enermax 620W Liberty |
| Mouse | Logitech MX510 red |
| Keyboard | eTech PS/2 keyboard |
| Software | Win XP SP3 |
| Benchmark Scores | http://hwbot.org/submission/2455634_ |
Once upon a time, there was a graphic card. Not fast one and on the top of that, it used all bad caps. So regardless how hard she try, she was destined to fail from the very beginning. CapXon caps made that promise:
Luckily for the poor card, the user that bought her used her only very sporadically and he also connected her on quality PSU:
So time went by slowly. Till something went wrong and the picture on screen get corrupted:
Regardless that the card still show BIOS/DOS screens with text nicely, user demanded windws and installed a new GFX card. After that, his PSU ( FSP 250-60GTA ) told him "by by" and died on him. Probably sort of card-revenge that she got replaced by a ATI 9250 128MB card. PSU failure:
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y134/trod...SP250-60GTA.jpg
But again luckily form the poor cardie - I pitty her, so I decided to save her and fix her. Instead of only 22uF 25V caps I used quite much better ones:
Of course I measured firs and the whole cardie is powered from 3.3V rail.
Rams are powered directly from the PSU 3.3V line, so if you want O/C them better, just increase the 3.3V line to say 3.5V...
GPU main regulator produce 2.6V output for core and the two closest caps to the GPU support that voltage. All other show 3.3V on them. I still think that regulating from 3.3V to 2.6V is crazy as the difference is only 0.7V and that it not enought for good regulation and they should power the GPU from 5V rail, getting 2.4V to regulation = much better. But, well - too late.
However no matter how hard I try, the board is still showing the very same picture, so recap was sucesfull, yet it did not fix the bug. I suspected from the beginning that the resistor pole used to make the 75 ohms VGA output is to blame, so I going to remove it and instead of removed CE filter caps install separate and better 75 ohm resistors and we see...
Luckily for the poor card, the user that bought her used her only very sporadically and he also connected her on quality PSU:
So time went by slowly. Till something went wrong and the picture on screen get corrupted:
Regardless that the card still show BIOS/DOS screens with text nicely, user demanded windws and installed a new GFX card. After that, his PSU ( FSP 250-60GTA ) told him "by by" and died on him. Probably sort of card-revenge that she got replaced by a ATI 9250 128MB card. PSU failure:
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y134/trod...SP250-60GTA.jpg
But again luckily form the poor cardie - I pitty her, so I decided to save her and fix her. Instead of only 22uF 25V caps I used quite much better ones:
Of course I measured firs and the whole cardie is powered from 3.3V rail.
Rams are powered directly from the PSU 3.3V line, so if you want O/C them better, just increase the 3.3V line to say 3.5V...
GPU main regulator produce 2.6V output for core and the two closest caps to the GPU support that voltage. All other show 3.3V on them. I still think that regulating from 3.3V to 2.6V is crazy as the difference is only 0.7V and that it not enought for good regulation and they should power the GPU from 5V rail, getting 2.4V to regulation = much better. But, well - too late.
However no matter how hard I try, the board is still showing the very same picture, so recap was sucesfull, yet it did not fix the bug. I suspected from the beginning that the resistor pole used to make the 75 ohms VGA output is to blame, so I going to remove it and instead of removed CE filter caps install separate and better 75 ohm resistors and we see...
This recap was, in fact, kinda easy. Harder will be the removal of the IMHO guilty resistor pole RP1, witch provide the necessary 75 ohms resistance to ground for the RGB signals from the card.