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RX 580 into RX 480 flash?

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Furmark was released around the time HD 7000 series came about, NV called it a power virus and their cards throttle it.
Polaris cards don't have any special Furmark avoidance mechanisms. It's just same good ole' power limiter at work. Usually Furmark makes GPUs to reduce clock speed somewhat more than other other load.
 

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Have you bugged Powercolor about the fan controller?
 
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Anyways,the fan controller/fan thermostat may be on its way out, id look very carefully at the fan connections and fans closely. Im unaware if its on the gpu pcb or on the fan hubs...
GPU fans are connected to GPU PCB, not sure where else it could be connected, it's not like they use same fan connector as case fans. Nor I use case fans on GPU (although I have mounted AIO at one point on it and that worked fine, but it was a janky solution and was quite loud and everything was zip tied. Fun ghetto mod, but I decided not to use that long). I have fitted 1200 rpm case fan to card instead of stock fans and well with 107 watt BIOS it can keep card at 83C in Heaven. I'm not comfortable with that much and 120mm fan is just too big for heatsink this small, so lots of air blown into case, instead of card.
 

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GPU fans are connected to GPU PCB, not sure where else it could be connected, it's not like they use same fan connector as case fans. Nor I use case fans on GPU (although I have mounted AIO at one point on it and that worked fine, but it was a janky solution and was quite loud and everything was zip tied. Fun ghetto mod, but I decided not to use that long). I have fitted 1200 rpm case fan to card instead of stock fans and well with 107 watt BIOS it can keep card at 83C in Heaven. I'm not comfortable with that much and 120mm fan is just too big for heatsink this small, so lots of air blown into case, instead of card.

I believe there might possibly be a custom wb by alphacool as a solution.

Perhaps you can reach Powercolor for a brain picking.
 
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Have you bugged Powercolor about the fan controller?
Nope. Card is out of warranty period and will be unlikely to be accepted into RMA (it was taken apart, has missing PowerColor stickers, has missing warranty stickers, at one point was overclocked, BIOS was modded many times, fan shroud is scratched).

I believe there might possibly be a custom wb by alphacool as a solution.

Perhaps you can reach Powercolor for a brain picking.
A real waterblock is expensive and you need to have a full loop, which I don't have and don't want. I may contact PowerColor about what normal fan behaviour is supposed to be and how many rpms should this card reach. But I would expect their support to be on "have you turned it off and on" level tbh. I can probably use an excuse of having bought a miner card with borked BIOS and that I am in South Africa (as far as I know, season temperatures are inversed near South Pole), so that's why my card (my specific low power tune) doesn't spin fans as much as legit card.

BTW there might be GPU fan adapter, if there is, I could more or less set them to constant rpms and use custom BIOS. Seems like cheap and frugal mod.
 
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Nope. Card is out of warranty period and will be unlikely to be accepted into RMA (it was taken apart, has missing PowerColor stickers, has missing warranty stickers, at one point was overclocked, BIOS was modded many times, fan shroud is scratched).


A real waterblock is expensive and you need to have a full loop, which I don't have and don't want. I may contact PowerColor about what normal fan behaviour is supposed to be and how many rpms should this card reach. But I would expect their support to be on "have you turned it off and on" level tbh. I can probably use an excuse of having bought a miner card with borked BIOS and that I am in South Africa (as far as I know, season temperatures are inversed near South Pole), so that's why my card (my specific low power tune) doesn't spin fans as much as legit card.

BTW there might be GPU fan adapter, if there is, I could more or less set them to constant rpms and use custom BIOS. Seems like cheap and frugal mod.

It doesnt matter about the RMA, out of warranty means you pay for the RMA, what i mean is if you query them about the fan speed (do not mention you bios modded the card) why it happens then you may or may not get an educated answer. I don't know if Powercolor has a Forum but it may help. Im no expert in bios modding or how a pcb is structured as that is the enginerring dept. I just help restore cards to stock using a phone atm.

Yeah I typically like controlling fans manually, that is how my case is a dual rheostat/potentiometer. However the cpu and gpu are on the pcb controllers as they arent broken
 

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Outrageous fan noise seems to be a common complaint with this specific card.

PowerColor Red Dragon RX 580 fans have the highest amperage requirement I've seen on a gpu at 12v .55A.

You could try PolarisBiosEditor to permanently change your fan curve.

https://github.com/caa82437/PolarisBiosEditor

Yeah i do recall Tul being balls to the wall about their Cards. He has done what he can to control it. But im not sure if the controller is failing.
 
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It doesnt matter about the RMA, out of warranty means you pay for the RMA
I never knew that was an option. if they reject RMA, that means they won't fix it at all. RMA where I live is quite more different as in US. It's very conservative. Basically any OEM would suspect consumer being idiot first, if not, then blame consumer for not necessarily consumer made damage (if it's questionable type of damage, then consumer is wrong), certain hardware problems are ignored, even if they do cause issues in long term, but if they don't deviate from initial model of your hardware specs. I have heard that some people contact authorities and they often defend consumer a lot more than OEM, but it takes a long time (months) and pretty much has no lasting effect on OEM. OEM can still screw people up and system here is that you contact authorities, they sort it out and OEM doesn't get punished, apart from doing actual RMA (if they can) and maybe some small fine.

Or maybe I just have a rotten luck with RMA myself, but that still doesn't change the fact that many OEMs attempt to not honour warranty and likely get away wit hit. If I buy computer hardware, I basically treat it as if it never had warranty.

And PowerColor doesn't have any forum, only very ancient and inefficient looking inquiry form and some infantile sounding Devil Club. I somehow think, that Red Dragon, doesn't belong in Devil club.

Edit:
Tried to sign up into Devil club, but it requires some invitation, that I obviously don't have. I guess, I don't care about it then.

Outrageous fan noise seems to be a common complaint with this specific card.

PowerColor Red Dragon RX 580 fans have the highest amperage requirement I've seen on a gpu at 12v .55A.

You could try PolarisBiosEditor to permanently change your fan curve.

https://github.com/caa82437/PolarisBiosEditor
I guess, that heatsink is just too poor for this card. It's basically exactly the same heatsink that they used for RX 480, but then fans topped out at 2800 rpm. That's still garbage, because reference RX 480 topped out at just 2200 rpm. And reference cards are known to be one of the worst, particularly blowers.

Kudos to PowerColor for making custom cooler worse than reference cooler. /s

I have tried messing with PWM values in SRB Polaris and PBE, that functionality isn't really functional. You can't even lock maximum rpms. If you flash different value (let's say 2500 rpm), ten after boot up card itself may or may not reach that value, but you can still set fans to 100% in Afterburner and that still means that they will reach stock 3500 rpm. So I dunno, that seems broken to me. PWM percentage tweaking seemingly has some effect, but it's still disconnected from actual temperature of card and card violates preset curve. I also have no idea what card is supposed to do if it reaches medium temperature point or high temperature point. I only know that if it reaches max temperature point, then it will keep fans at max until it cools down, but that's useless knowledge as card never reaches temperatures that high. Temperature target modifications, seem to have the most effect, but card still only partially respects set value. It still often spins fans too high and keep GPU at lower temperature than is defined in target. Or if target is low (like stock 70C), then fans don't spin as fast they have to to keep temperature at target.

And speaking of unclear settings, I still have zero idea of what power limits do. I figured out that changing TDP, only changes displayed wattage in GPU-Z, but has no effect on actual card wattage. Small power limit seemingly does nothing. Maximum power limit seemingly is the actual power limit. Most OEMs set small and max power limit to same values, so that's good, but some actually set them at different values. That makes me a bit concerned about them. Maybe one is for core only and other for whole card. Maybe one is short term power limit and other is long term power limit (like Intel's PL1 and PL2). All I know, that I don't know everything and there's no way to find that out. I asked about this on several forum and got no replies. Neither SRB Polaris, neither PBE website explains what they actually do. AMD doesn't publicly offer whitepapers about that, but I can find some old Radeon HD 7000 series PowerTune files that mention a little bit that they exist. It's a shame, that there isn't much information.
 
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I never knew that was an option. if they reject RMA, that means they won't fix it at all. RMA where I live is quite more different as in US. It's very conservative. Basically any OEM would suspect consumer being idiot first, if not, then blame consumer for not necessarily consumer made damage (if it's questionable type of damage, then consumer is wrong), certain hardware problems are ignored, even if they do cause issues in long term, but if they don't deviate from initial model of your hardware specs. I have heard that some people contact authorities and they often defend consumer a lot more than OEM, but it takes a long time (months) and pretty much has no lasting effect on OEM. OEM can still screw people up and system here is that you contact authorities, they sort it out and OEM doesn't get punished, apart from doing actual RMA (if they can) and maybe some small fine.

Or maybe I just have a rotten luck with RMA myself, but that still doesn't change the fact that many OEMs attempt to not honour warranty and likely get away wit hit. If I buy computer hardware, I basically treat it as if it never had warranty.

And PowerColor doesn't have any forum, only very ancient and inefficient looking inquiry form and some infantile sounding Devil Club. I somehow think, that Red Dragon, doesn't belong in Devil club.

Edit:
Tried to sign up into Devil club, but it requires some invitation, that I obviously don't have. I guess, I don't care about it then.


I guess, that heatsink is just too poor for this card. It's basically exactly the same heatsink that they used for RX 480, but then fans topped out at 2800 rpm. That's still garbage, because reference RX 480 topped out at just 2200 rpm. And reference cards are known to be one of the worst, particularly blowers.

Kudos to PowerColor for making custom cooler worse than reference cooler. /s

I have tried messing with PWM values in SRB Polaris and PBE, that functionality isn't really functional. You can't even lock maximum rpms. If you flash different value (let's say 2500 rpm), ten after boot up card itself may or may not reach that value, but you can still set fans to 100% in Afterburner and that still means that they will reach stock 3500 rpm. So I dunno, that seems broken to me. PWM percentage tweaking seemingly has some effect, but it's still disconnected from actual temperature of card and card violates preset curve. I also have no idea what card is supposed to do if it reaches medium temperature point or high temperature point. I only know that if it reaches max temperature point, then it will keep fans at max until it cools down, but that's useless knowledge as card never reaches temperatures that high. Temperature target modifications, seem to have the most effect, but card still only partially respects set value. It still often spins fans too high and keep GPU at lower temperature than is defined in target. Or if target is low (like stock 70C), then fans don't spin as fast they have to to keep temperature at target.

And speaking of unclear settings, I still have zero idea of what power limits do. I figured out that changing TDP, only changes displayed wattage in GPU-Z, but has no effect on actual card wattage. Small power limit seemingly does nothing. Maximum power limit seemingly is the actual power limit. Most OEMs set small and max power limit to same values, so that's good, but some actually set them at different values. That makes me a bit concerned about them. Maybe one is for core only and other for whole card. Maybe one is short term power limit and other is long term power limit (like Intel's PL1 and PL2). All I know, that I don't know everything and there's no way to find that out. I asked about this on several forum and got no replies. Neither SRB Polaris, neither PBE website explains what they actually do. AMD doesn't publicly offer whitepapers about that, but I can find some old Radeon HD 7000 series PowerTune files that mention a little bit that they exist. It's a shame, that there isn't much information.

Maximum power is the maximum draw the card can handle with the stock cooler
 
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Maximum power is the maximum draw the card can handle with the stock cooler
I'm speaking about power limits in BIOS. It's not really about what card can handle or not. After all card, if looked properly at, very quickly can consume a lot more power (let's say 180 watts) and tens of milliseconds later, it will consume 60 watts. There's absolutely no way to reduce these spikes and no need to really worry about them. Maximum power limit sets maximum allowed average power limit, that averages at high rate.
 
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Hey there Ive got a Msi Amour Rx580 8g that is really loud as well
could this help fix the card or would undervolting be better
 

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Hey there Ive got a Msi Amour Rx580 8g that is really loud as well
could this help fix the card or would undervolting be better

Clean it. Pull it apart, replace compound.
 
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Clean it. Pull it apart, replace compound.
its been like this and i got it new
i dont thin cleaning it would really do anything
as for repasting what paste should i use on a gpu
 

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its been like this and i got it new
i dont thin cleaning it would really do anything
as for repasting what paste should i use on a gpu

No liquid metal, look on the web for the best thermal conducting paste for cpu/gpu
 
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No liquid metal, look on the web for the best thermal conducting paste for cpu/gpu
i have a tube of

CoolerMaster HTK-002-U1​

will that do
also will repasting void my warrenty?
 
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Hey there Ive got a Msi Amour Rx580 8g that is really loud as well
could this help fix the card or would undervolting be better
It can help, but without dual vBIOS or at least integrated graphics, I wouldn't recommend that. It's much better to just modify your own card's vBIOS to lower TDP. Undervolting works too, but it's not possible to set it permanently in vBIOS. Do it in AMD Wattman.
 
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It can help, but without dual vBIOS or at least integrated graphics, I wouldn't recommend that. It's much better to just modify your own card's vBIOS to lower TDP. Undervolting works too, but it's not possible to set it permanently in vBIOS. Do it in AMD Wattman.
I have a 3200g so i do have a agpu
Im willling to try anything to keep the card running cool
but would like to keep my warrenty intack if possible
 
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i have a tube of

CoolerMaster HTK-002-U1​

will that do
also will repasting void my warrenty?
That voids warranty and doesn't do much. Totally not worth it. There's a video about almost your card:
 
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becaus
That voids warranty and doesn't do much. Totally not worth it. There's a video about almost your card:
e im impationt and prefer reading i skipped through the video BUT it seems he comes to the conclusion its case airflow
i cant rip the front of my cass...
 
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I have a 3200g so i do have a agpu
Im willling to try anything to keep the card running cool
but would like to keep my warrenty intack if possible
If you want to keep current performance level, there's no way. Undervolting is nice, but it doesn't bring changes big enough. You will have to lower your power limit. Let's say to 100-110 watts. Do it in Wattman, so show it works out for you, doing so reduces clock speed and as result performance. How much, depends on load.
 
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If you want to keep current performance level, there's no way. Undervolting is nice, but it doesn't bring changes big enough. You will have to lower your power limit. Let's say to 100-110 watts. Do it in Wattman, so show it works out for you, doing so reduces clock speed and as result performance. How much, depends on load.
i dont mind losing some performance the cards bottlenecked by the cpu half the time anyway
how much will 100ws shave of my computer?
 
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Video Card(s) PowerColor Red Dragon V2 RX 580 8GB ~100 watts in Wattman
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becaus

e im impationt and prefer reading i skipped through the video BUT it seems he comes to the conclusion its case airflow
i cant rip the front of my cass...
Yes and no. In his situation it was the case, but Armor cards have one of the smallest heatsinks on RX series cards and there's no way that they can cope with heat as well, without ramping up fans.
 
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Yes and no. In his situation it was the case, but Armor cards have one of the smallest heatsinks on RX series cards and there's no way that they can cope with heat as well, without ramping up fans.
So can you reduce the heat or somehow increase the cooling cappabilitys of the 580
 
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1,978 (1.82/day)
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Processor Intel Core i5 10400F
Motherboard Gigabyte B460M Aorus Pro
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Memory 2x8GB G.Skill Aegis 2666 MHz
Video Card(s) PowerColor Red Dragon V2 RX 580 8GB ~100 watts in Wattman
Storage 512GB WD Blue + 256GB WD Green + 4TH Toshiba X300
Display(s) BenQ BL2420PT
Case Cooler Master Silencio S400
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Mouse Steel Series Rival 100
Keyboard Hama SL 570
Software Windows 10 Enterprise
i dont mind losing some performance the cards bottlenecked by the cpu half the time anyway
how much will 100ws shave of my computer?
At 100 watts, I can't really tell. Like I said it depends on workload. Basically wattage is amps*voltage. Voltage is preset in card and is constant curve (unless modified), amperage depends solely on how much of card is loaded. Impossible to tell. All I know is that GTA 5 doesn't require many amps. Furmark isn't ideal either. Other games like Wreckfest, maybe Genshin Impact will be better real tests. Obviously benchmarks like Unigine Heaven, Unigine Tropics or Unigine Superposition work well too, but they tend to draw more amps than in actual games, so you see worse than usual results. There's no other way to find out something like that, without changing wattman settings and monitoring your card in games. Usually the card should be reaching above 1100 MHz.

So can you reduce the heat or somehow increase the cooling cappabilitys of the 580
You can reduce heat by reducing power limit. There are some aftermarket coolers, but they cost money and often don't fit into case due to clearance issues with other parts. It might be possible to swap heatsink from other RX 580, but that's risky becasue VRM and VRAM cooling may not be in same places.
 
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