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steelseries rival 100 mouse right click problem

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May 2, 2015
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hello guys, can anyone help?
i have a steelseries rival 100 mouse

i travelled to my parents place and im using this mouse in my lenovo laptop, the right click is not working everytime, i have to play dota 2 (game) here its my only time pass here.
i opened the mouse and tried to do some cleaning for the fix but i cant lift and open up the little box thats under the RIGHT CLICK. can anybody help me

here are some pics
mouse2.jpgmouse3.jpg




mouse2.jpg
mouse3.jpg
 

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There are two latches (one on each side). It's hard to disassemble the switch without de-soldering it first, and in most cases simple cleaning won't help.
If you have a soldering iron, or you have a friend who can solder, I'd remove both LKM and RKM and replace with brand new Omrons, or Kailhs (they are ~$1-$1.50 apiece).
Otherwise you can try and make a couple of drops of isopropyl alcohol into the top hole and do a hundred or so clicks. It may help if it's just an oxidation on the contact pad.
But as far as I know, these tend to either deform or snap on one side, which causes misclicks and/or double clicks.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Kailh-micro-switch-60M-life-gaming-mouse-Micro-Switch-3-Pin-red-dot-used-on-computer/32960677618.html
 
Them type of switches are very hard to re assemble. if you cant get it to work, the only option is to replace the switch or mouse. At a push you could use the middle click for right click, if you can re assign it with the driver or windows mouse settings
 
There are two latches (one on each side). It's hard to disassemble the switch without de-soldering it first, and in most cases simple cleaning won't help.
If you have a soldering iron, or you have a friend who can solder, I'd remove both LKM and RKM and replace with brand new Omrons, or Kailhs (they are ~$1-$1.50 apiece).
Otherwise you can try and make a couple of drops of isopropyl alcohol into the top hole and do a hundred or so clicks. It may help if it's just an oxidation on the contact pad.
But as far as I know, these tend to either deform or snap on one side, which causes misclicks and/or double clicks.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Kailh-micro-switch-60M-life-gaming-mouse-Micro-Switch-3-Pin-red-dot-used-on-computer/32960677618.html
hmmm thanks for replying

then thing is this problem arose when the mouse first fell in the floor, but it sorted itself out about a month ago, and now after one flight to another state its back again....i will try the alcohol drops. thanks

Them type of switches are very hard to re assemble. if you cant get it to work, the only option is to replace the switch or mouse. At a push you could use the middle click for right click, if you can re assign it with the driver or windows mouse settings
its hard enough to just remove that box alone for me....let see what can be done hmm

thank you very much
 
There are two latches (one on each side). It's hard to disassemble the switch without de-soldering it first, and in most cases simple cleaning won't help.
If you have a soldering iron, or you have a friend who can solder, I'd remove both LKM and RKM and replace with brand new Omrons, or Kailhs (they are ~$1-$1.50 apiece).
Otherwise you can try and make a couple of drops of isopropyl alcohol into the top hole and do a hundred or so clicks. It may help if it's just an oxidation on the contact pad.
But as far as I know, these tend to either deform or snap on one side, which causes misclicks and/or double clicks.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Kailh-micro-switch-60M-life-gaming-mouse-Micro-Switch-3-Pin-red-dot-used-on-computer/32960677618.html
hey man, i didnt have alcohol so i just put kerosene into it,
its working perfect now :D:D:D:D:D
 
hey man, i didnt have alcohol so i just put kerosene into it,
its working perfect now :D:D:D:D:D
I guess you were one of the lucky ones where it was a simple case of dirty contacts.
Good job on not killing it )))
BTW, next time if you don't have isopropyl alcohol - just go get some vodka :toast:
 
As an owner of a Rival 300 I can say those SteelSeries switches are trash. Nice to use for a while and then they start to exhibit double or even triple clicks. It happened on all 3 of the main switches in less than a year.
I used contact cleaner spray, opened the mouse and sprayed a lot into to switch itself, while the red actuator part was pressed. THere's just enough space for the fluid to go through. Then repeatedly click it for 30-40 times, then spray again, then click again. It works fine for now, but I got Omrons from Amazon, and as soon as I get to my home country, where I have a soldering iron, I'm changing them for good.
 
Them type of switches are very hard to re assemble. if you cant get it to work, the only option is to replace the switch or mouse. At a push you could use the middle click for right click, if you can re assign it with the driver or windows mouse settings

This, double clicking is a sign of the switch failing. the lighter mouse switches always fail on me the same way.

I have had a few and the heavier to press switches which are found on the Sensei Wireless are a little harder to press but have lasted me years over the others which was 4-12 months.

As an owner of a Rival 300 I can say those SteelSeries switches are trash. Nice to use for a while and then they start to exhibit double or even triple clicks. It happened on all 3 of the main switches in less than a year.
I used contact cleaner spray, opened the mouse and sprayed a lot into to switch itself, while the red actuator part was pressed. THere's just enough space for the fluid to go through. Then repeatedly click it for 30-40 times, then spray again, then click again. It works fine for now, but I got Omrons from Amazon, and as soon as I get to my home country, where I have a soldering iron, I'm changing them for good.

Got sick of buying mouse and ended up doing the same, although many failed ones for me have been omron too. Those feather touch switches fail much sooner, they just cannot put up with the abuse.
 
Got sick of buying mouse and ended up doing the same, although many failed ones for me have been omron too. Those feather touch switches fail much sooner, they just cannot put up with the abuse.
I used to hunt for old PS/2 Logitech mice with old Omrons. Those had a much thicker membrane, but for some reason weren't much louder than newer counterparts (with the same actuation force).
Other than that the only alternative is Kailh red. They are cheap, relatively quiet, and usually last just as long as new Omrons (which can't be said about their keyboard switches).
My local electronic part distributors stopped selling Omrons a long time ago, so the only way to get real ones is from places like Newark(Element14) or Digikey.
 
@silentbogo, i just collect old mice every so often and simply replace. The local thrift store can be handy too as for a switch being loud i just don't care about it as there is nothing like a solid switch.

Had a little issue with some Kailh keyboard switches but that easily solved with some QD Electrical Cleaner.
 
Had a little issue with some Kailh keyboard switches but that easily solved with some QD Electrical Cleaner.
I had a big issue, which got solved with a 100-pack of Gateron Browns :nutkick:
At least now I have a lot of spares for customer "gaming" KB repairs.
 
Silent bogo what do you mean by top hole because I actually do have the same problem with the rival 110 and i'd like to try to fix it with alcohol but I don't get which top hole you mean
 
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