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Temperatures worse on new pc case than on previous no-name with opened side

Well there's your issue...

The case he bought costs more than that and performs like crap for him.

I provided 2 lines that are also mid towers and have good airflow characteristics.

My case I didnt use the factory fans but aftermarket ones per research.
 
I'm not sure what you guys all do with your fans but silence and airflow / good temps are not mutually exclusive or anything...
Or anything? What does that mean?

There absolutely IS a direct relation between fan noise, air flow and temps.

Airflow is not just vents, in fact it barely is, airflow is all about case fans & RPM. Pressure and temp delta will do the rest.
Of course it is about vents. If a fan does not have a vent to pull cool air in from, or push heated air out of, then the fan is basically just spinning air around inside the case - which is not effective at all.

As for RPM, it is much more involved than that. The size and design of the blade play critical roles. Remember, this is aerodynamics at work as a fan blade moves air using the same principles as an airplane propeller which uses the same principles as an airplane wing.

The length, width and pitch of the blade all play critical roles in determining how much air the blade can scoop up and push out - and that is BEFORE rotation speed (RPM) comes into play. And the noise made is also a factor of how that blade slaps (or "chops" at the air). Other factors affecting fan noise are the cage components of the fan housing and the design of the vents of the case the air must move through.
 
Spent almost whole night on checking various things and setups which resulted with something fairly close to open case scenario.

For the moment i ended up with this setup: 2x front intake, 1x rear out, 2x top out, 1x ghetto mod on side for intake in cable management part of case.

I moved front fans as much as it is possible upwards, earlier lower fan was blowing with most of its surface on bottom side of case which is hdd/psu shroud, now this fan blows with its all plane into actual case, to be specific, on sound and graphics card.

Also i have removed one of top fans (from over dvd drive) and placed it in psu shroud where it blows on psu and possibly provides at least a bit of air to rest of case through two holes in psu shroud.

Two top fans moved a bit so now they are closer together and directly over cpu to suck off the hot air from cpu area.

Rear fan without significant changes.

Now gpu is almost as quiet as it was with open case, at least it is not loud as hoover anymore while gaming. Same goes for gpu temperatures, almost the same as with open case. Glass panel around gpu area is not hot anymore, it is cool but a bit warmer around cpu area on which i will work a bit more as cpu still is getting high temperatures. With this setup i also tried open case and gpu temperatures stayed the same but cpu temperatures went down by 15-20 degrees. I'm thinking about making rear fan intake and will check few other scenarios. While doing all this i also changed thermal paste on cpu.

theoneandonlymrk, no, internal optical drive stays in. I do not like external optical drives as they are not handy, at least to me. It is just another wire and hanging thing outside case and i'm trying to keep as less wires outside case as possible.
Ok you realise i don't leave it plugged in, it's used 3 times a year perhaps.
Your choice ,good luck with your pc.

I would however recommend getting some filters for your new side fan and the rear if you make it intake.
 
I just gave up, tried probably all possible fan combinations and in the best case i was able to make cpu back to almost normal temperatures. Anything i tried makes cpu reach up to 80 degrees while playing bf1 and with almost all or all configurations gpu is becoming a hoover. The case has built-in switch for controlling fans speeds, changing speeds was making no difference.

Now i just threw this glass side off and everything is silent (sounds just noticeably under load, not dead silent) and has proper temperatures. I do not care about dust as i do not live in middle of Sahara or next to some factory. I used to clean pc once per few months and even then there is not much of dust on parts. I'm talking about amounts which never affected hardware temperatures by even a single degree. Still i may consider putting on some homemade "mosquito net" in place of that glass side, just for looks.

Well, at least i have plenty of space for gpu and can place inside any consumer gpu available on market.

Ok you realise i don't leave it plugged in, it's used 3 times a year perhaps.
Your choice ,good luck with your pc.

I would however recommend getting some filters for your new side fan and the rear if you make it intake.
You may have already realized i'm not you and i'm using optical discs more than 3 times a year. 5,25" bays were one of reasons i bought this specific case, otherwise i would buy something for half price of that as market is currently overfilled with cases without 5,25" bays.
 
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I just gave up, tried probably all possible fan combinations and in the best case i was able to make cpu back to almost normal temperatures. Anything i tried makes cpu reach up to 80 degrees while playing bf1 and with almost all or all configurations gpu is becoming a hoover. The case has built-in switch for controlling fans speeds, changing speeds was making no difference.

Now i just threw this glass side off and everything is silent (sounds just noticeably under load, not dead silent) and has proper temperatures. I do not care about dust as i do not live in middle of Sahara or next to some factory. I used to clean pc once per few months and even then there is not much of dust on parts. I'm talking about amounts which never affected hardware temperatures by even a single degree. Still i may consider putting on some homemade "mosquito net" in place of that glass side, just for looks.

Well, at least i have plenty of space for gpu and can place inside any consumer gpu available on market.


You may have already realized i'm not you and i'm using optical discs more than 3 times a year. 5,25" bays were one of reasons i bought this specific case, otherwise i would buy something for half price of that as market is currently overfilled with cases without 5,25" bays.
I didn't argue with you using internal, I wouldn't have you thinking my pc is a wirey mess though :).
 
I went from a full tower (Fractal Design Arc XL - so much space, it was awesome) to a large LAN case (Cooler Master HAF XB Evo). The XB Evo is just barely large enough with how it's designed to allow a 13" GPU to be used. Most smaller cases I was looking into top out around 11" for GPUs and they wouldn't be able to house my 980Ti.

The Fractal case I had 2 front intake, one bottom intake, 1 rear exhaust and my H100i radiator mounted to the top. I removed the HDD cages and I used 5.25" HDD mounting brackets and stuck my two HDDs in a couple of the spare 5.25" bays I wasn't using (4 - 5.25" bays total, one had a blu-ray player, the other a DVD burner). There was very little air restriction in the case and the fans moved decent air. My 980Ti ran upwards of mid to high 70s when gaming, I ran two of them in SLI for a short while. The top card ran really hot - maxing at 85C - while the bottom card stayed pretty cool (65C and under). I eventually moved away from SLI and just went with a single card.

I put the second card in another tower (HAF XB Evo) that I was constructing a Plex/spare gaming PC. I played a few games on it and temps for the 980Ti never broke 65C.

I liked how well things stayed cool in the Plex server plus the fact the GPU isn't hanging there, sagging on the PCIE slot. So, I picked up a second HAF XB Evo. My gaming rig consists of the following (aside from needing the obvious MB/CPU/PSU):
2 HDDs
1 SSD
1 Blu-Ray reader (I didn't install the DVD Burner)
1 top 200mm fan
H100i (radiator mounted on the inside, front panel)
and 980Ti AMP! Omega (that just barely fits. see pic below)

20181020_223654-jpg.109130


That's it. No other intake or exhaust fans, just the top 200mm exhaust fan. My 980Ti barely hits 65C and overall the system stays very quiet. So quiet, I can hear my HDDs spin up when they're accessed and while they're in use. Since I have no intake fans I have very little dirt/dust/dog hair getting inside the case and she stays pretty clean. I like that this tower has the MB mounted parallel to the ground and not perpendicular, allowing the heavy GPU to sag. I was getting some bad GPU sag on the PCIE slot (very noticeable when I remove the GPU) because the GPU is so dang big and heavy, even with a backplate the sag was noticeable.

TL;DR - long story short. Moved from big open case with a handful of fans to small case with 1 big fan and my temps are much better now. And I no longer have to worry about GPU sag.
 
I went from a full tower (Fractal Design Arc XL - so much space, it was awesome) to a large LAN case (Cooler Master HAF XB Evo). The XB Evo is just barely large enough with how it's designed to allow a 13" GPU to be used. Most smaller cases I was looking into top out around 11" for GPUs and they wouldn't be able to house my 980Ti.

The Fractal case I had 2 front intake, one bottom intake, 1 rear exhaust and my H100i radiator mounted to the top. I removed the HDD cages and I used 5.25" HDD mounting brackets and stuck my two HDDs in a couple of the spare 5.25" bays I wasn't using (4 - 5.25" bays total, one had a blu-ray player, the other a DVD burner). There was very little air restriction in the case and the fans moved decent air. My 980Ti ran upwards of mid to high 70s when gaming, I ran two of them in SLI for a short while. The top card ran really hot - maxing at 85C - while the bottom card stayed pretty cool (65C and under). I eventually moved away from SLI and just went with a single card.

I put the second card in another tower (HAF XB Evo) that I was constructing a Plex/spare gaming PC. I played a few games on it and temps for the 980Ti never broke 65C.

I liked how well things stayed cool in the Plex server plus the fact the GPU isn't hanging there, sagging on the PCIE slot. So, I picked up a second HAF XB Evo. My gaming rig consists of the following (aside from needing the obvious MB/CPU/PSU):
2 HDDs
1 SSD
1 Blu-Ray reader (I didn't install the DVD Burner)
1 top 200mm fan
H100i (radiator mounted on the inside, front panel)
and 980Ti AMP! Omega (that just barely fits. see pic below)

20181020_223654-jpg.109130


That's it. No other intake or exhaust fans, just the top 200mm exhaust fan. My 980Ti barely hits 65C and overall the system stays very quiet. So quiet, I can hear my HDDs spin up when they're accessed and while they're in use. Since I have no intake fans I have very little dirt/dust/dog hair getting inside the case and she stays pretty clean. I like that this tower has the MB mounted parallel to the ground and not perpendicular, allowing the heavy GPU to sag. I was getting some bad GPU sag on the PCIE slot (very noticeable when I remove the GPU) because the GPU is so dang big and heavy, even with a backplate the sag was noticeable.

TL;DR - long story short. Moved from big open case with a handful of fans to small case with 1 big fan and my temps are much better now. And I no longer have to worry about GPU sag.

I prefer roominess due to big mits.
 
That case appears designed to use 3 front intake, 1 rear exhaust, and comes with fans for those specific slots.

Couple things to try:
1. Remove the front glass and put the side on. 3 intakes, 2 exhaust.
- see what temps you get. The case comes with 3 intake and 1 exhaust and the maker considers it high flow. :rolleyes:

2. Remove the PCI slot covers 3 intakes, 3 exhaust. Keep side on, front glass removed.
-on this one tie a piece of thread to one of the slots bars to check which way air is flowing. If air flow is coming in remove one of the exhaust fans.

3. Buy or make an internal fan mount that lets you direct airflow. Even inserting screws on a fan ( to lift it from being flat against a surface) and laying on the bottom directing flow to the video card works ok.

Last option is to down clock manually. Most everything has thermal throttling that is automatic, if you cant change those settings, down clock.
Also, check you bios settings that control the fan speeds, they might not be correct. You would also use a fan controller.
 
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If anything I'd sell that case
 
Try 2 intake fans on the front using the lower two postions and one exhaust in the back with no top fans. The idea is to have more air coming in that is being pulled out. If that does not work initially, try increasing the fan speeds in the front. Start with a speed of at least 800-1000rpm and possibly increase it up to 1200rpm.

I run a single 140mm front intake and a single 120mm rear exhaust as my only case fans (both around 850 rpm) and my temps are fine and everything is super quiet even under load.
 
I do not care about dust as i do not live in middle of Sahara
That's fine but remember in homes, dust content is also made up of dander (dead skin) from humans and pets, microscopic critters (dust mites) that eat that dander, microscopic "stuff" those critters leave behind, as well as human and pet hair, carpet and upholstery particles and more. So even if you live in a dust free part of the country and keep your home closed and air conditioned, dust can still build up inside our computers. And if you have pets and rug-rats running around, they can sure stir that dust up to be drawn into our computers by the case fans. At least with the side panel off, you can easily keep visual tabs on it. Actually, that's why I buy cases with side panel windows - so I can do a visual inspection for dust and spinning fans without opening the case. :)

That's what he said.
It was the "or anything..." I was really wondering about.
 
great idea, and Thanks John
That comment had me wondering how many Johns are on this forum, using different names, it is a common name, you may be thanking half the guys here. :roll:
 
I'm not sure what you guys all do with your fans but silence and airflow / good temps are not mutually exclusive or anything...

Airflow is not just vents, in fact it barely is, airflow is all about case fans & RPM. Pressure and temp delta will do the rest.

I think the point is... air flow is not just about fans . If a fan is blowing 35 cfm into a case, rest assured that 35 cfm is leaving the case ... otherwise the case would eventually explode. Since the fan doesn't have enough oomph to make that happen, the fan will just drop to near 0 ... but invariably, what comes in must go out and it does not need a extra fan to make that happen. Y ou don't need to match each intake fan with an exhaust fan. In most cases doing so will add problems.

Front .... here intakes are the best choice as a) there is no source of preheated air her and you don't want the exhaust blowing in ya face.
Rear ... this fan mount is high so ir's where aeat would collect and blows out the back away from ya face ... exhaust then.
Bottom ... same reasoning... and exhausted het would tent o rise ... sloooowly, so not hot exhaust will collect here
Top ... exhaust of course for air cooled builds but ONLY if you have enough intake fans ... 1.3 to 1.5 intake fans for each exhaust dur to air filter restruictions

Typical scenarios w/ an assumed moderately dusty air filter restriction of 25% ... all fans same model ... say package says 60 cfm @ 1.2 SP. In 'reality speak", that will meant about 36 cfm.

1 exhaust at rear .... this will suck out about 36 cfm, some of the air will enter thru front mounts, but les sbecause of the filters, most will come in thru rear grille and vented slot covers.
Add 1 intake fan .... because of filter restriction front fan will push in about 27 cfm and rear fan will remove 36 ... the remaining 9 will come in thru rear grille and vented slot covers.

In both situations, that air coming in the rear will be hotter than the front because:

a) the PSU and GFX card is pushing out hot exhaust and some of that will come in
b) As often as not, the PC is on a desk against the wall or adjacent floor will have a heat vent ... so during cooler weather ... if heat on, warmer air is coming in thru those rear openings.

Now when ya go to 2 fanbs blowing in and 1 blowing out, you solve both problems.... with 2 x 27 in (54) , ya have 36 going out so 18 cfm is blowing OUT thru the rear grilles. Now none of the heated air from heating system is coming in and no heated PSU and GFX card exhaust is coming in either. Same as using a fan in a window of a bedroom ... it's you go from two open windows (No AC) , the room will always be hotter than outside because of heat radiation on the walls, body heat, cooking electronic, lights etc.. But it s not like you need both an intake and an exhaust fan ... If the sun is setting for example and inside it's 95 inside and 85 outside, how fast the room cools will depoend on how long it takes to do an air change .... a 12 x 16 room w/ an 8 foot ceiling will do an air change in about 30 seconds with a 50 cfm fan. The heat is not stuck in the room unless of course the other window is closed. Open it and it goes out, it doesn't need an exhaust fan.

In short, the grille openings are an important part of the ventilation / cooling system ... which is why case manufacturers take the time to put them in and do the extra tooling to put vens in the slot covers. Of course w/o the fans, the grilles won't do much but they are very effective working together.

The ideal ratio depends on the Owner. With clean dust filters, your air inlet restriction (grilles, fan mount, filters might be as little as 15% ... in my youngest son's when i notice it /// I can peel a carpet off his filters .... prolly 35, maybe even 50% ... for a reasonably attentive person I'd say 4/3 ratio is reasonable ... for the average dude, I'd say 3 intakes to 2 exhausts. As long as you have more intakes to make sure you are nit sucking hot exhaust back in ya fine... whther that be 3/2 or 10/1
 
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