thermal paste on cpu pins

[lexluthermiester]

Problem solved. Thread closed.

Oh?

I've used a toothbrush to clean off the baked on TIM when I de-lidded. Farther back it was for a Athlon XP 2500+. Somehow I transferred TIM from my hand to a few pins, cleaned off with Dawn, and a toothbrush.

I've done that too. Always very carefully though.

 

[delshay]

Use a tooth brush .

Seen so many users recommending a tooth brush. This is something I will never used, It's just too hard. I use a new small to medium paint brush which is softer not only for real PGA CPU but for motherboards. Because the brush is softer it can get into tighter places.

A tooth brush can scratch a device & can bend or even break a PGA CPU or LGA socket. I do not recommend a tooth brush for any electrical cleaning.

 

[lexluthermiester]

I use a new small to medium paint brush which is softer not only for real PGA CPU but for motherboards.

Those work too, but a soft toothbrush tends to get gunk off better, in my experience.

 

[delshay]

Those work too, but a soft toothbrush tends to get gunk off better, in my experience.

You soak it in Isopropyl no matter how difficult the gunk is. It simply works here everytime. I use "Servisol IPA Electronic Cleaning Solvent" & never needed to use anything hard to clean any device, it always works here, even when thermal paste get stuck near capacitors on GPU.

Overall you just "soak it" & gunk will break-up regardless of what Isopropyl is used.

 

[Jetster]

Again he's reporting he got it on the underside of the CPU a 2550k. There is no pins, its gold contacts

You don't want to soak an lintel CPU. The IHS has a vent and alcohol will get under it.

Just wipe it off with alcohol preferably 91 to 99%

Also stay away from "Rubbing Alcohol" it has a few extra ingredients you don't want

Isopropyl alcohol (C3H8O), also known as rubbing alcohol, is an alcoholic mixture intended for external use as an antiseptic; it usually contains 70% by volume of absolute alcohol or isopropyl alcohol; the remainder consists of water, denaturants, and perfume oils; used as a rubefacient for muscle and joint aches and ...

 

[delshay]

Again he's reporting he got it on the underside of the CPU a 2550k. There is no pins, its gold contacts

You don't want to soak an lintel CPU. The IHS has a vent and alcohol will get under it.

Just wipe it off with alcohol preferably 91 to 99%

Also stay away from "Rubbing Alcohol" it has a few extra ingredients you don't want

Isopropyl alcohol (C3H8O), also known as rubbing alcohol, is an alcoholic mixture intended for external use as an antiseptic; it usually contains 70% by volume of absolute alcohol or isopropyl alcohol; the remainder consists of water, denaturants, and perfume oils; used as a rubefacient for muscle and joint aches and ...

When I say "soak it" you dip the paint brush into the Isopropyl then tap whatever area you are trying to clean. You leave Isopropyl on top of the thermal paste for example. Leave it there & if it starts to dry up, apply more. Now you will have a easyer time removing all the paste. This is something I did on my R9 Nano card which has exposed interposer, but is also very useful on thermal paste that has harden. If you are cleaning an Intel CPU which has new thermal paste on the contacts (like the OP in this thread), just dip the paint brush into the Isopropyl & stroke across the contacts area where thermal paste is located. This also works on PGA CPU as long as the brush is soft. & that's it, all completed. You have to be extra carful thou with a LGA socket if you try to clean it with a paint brush. Go very slowly on this one.

Dipping a complete CPU in Isopropyl should not damage it. It may just remove everything including the glue if you are delidded, but as long as everything is dried out all should be ok. I have never dipped a complete CPU in Isopropyl, because I have always used the right technique for cleaning. Sometimes after cleaning with a paint brush, I would use a air compressor to blow dry the CPU, but this is just OTT cleaning/drying without me waiting for it to dry in the normal way.

EDIT: When dealing with dried out thermal paste you may want to do this upside-down. In other words, after soaking a few times, turn the device over & brush across the device with the paint brush from below. This way any thermal paste that gets disturbed falls towards the floor & not pushed around & get stuck near capacitors. Let gravity do it's work. This technique most of the time is not required, but was required on my GPU.

 

[John Naylor]

Only thing missing here is that in addition to be being conductive, you also have to worry about being capacitive. AS5 is an example. There's nothing delicate about the CPU contact surfaces, you don't need anything soft here. Toothbrushes even "doobie pads" will work.

If ya can still find it, Indigo Extreme does a better job than alcohol.
https://indigo-xtreme.com/page-bba.shtml

 

[Jetster]

Only thing missing here is that in addition to be being conductive, you also have to worry about being capacitive. AS5 is an example. There's nothing delicate about the CPU contact surfaces, you don't need anything soft here. Toothbrushes even "doobie pads" will work.

If ya can still find it, Indigo Extreme does a better job than alcohol.
https://indigo-xtreme.com/page-bba.shtml

I really like the citrus cleaners, they work better. Artic Silver makes one too

 

[delshay]

I really like the citrus cleaners, they work better. Artic Silver makes one too

I have some of the Artic Silver cleaning stuff too, But the big cans of Isopropyl is easy to spot than find those small bottles.

 

[Vario]

I don't like the AS5 cleaners stuff as it leaves a visible residue. I just use 91% isopropyl alcohol only. When I used the AS5 cleaner, I had to use the isopropyl alcohol afterward to get rid of the residue which begs the question why bother using the cleaner in the first place. Skip a step and use the stronger alcohol. Also, 70% isopropyl is terrible for cleaning as well, it takes much longer to evaporate and it doesn't dissolve thermal paste as well.

 

[delshay]

I don't like the AS5 cleaners stuff as it leaves a visible residue. I just use 91% isopropyl alcohol only. When I used the AS5 cleaner, I had to use the isopropyl alcohol afterward to get rid of the residue which begs the question why bother using the cleaner in the first place. Skip a step and use the stronger alcohol. Also, 70% isopropyl is terrible for cleaning as well, it takes much longer to evaporate and it doesn't dissolve thermal paste as well.

Have to agree with you on this one. You know you have a problem when you try to apply LM Compound after cleaning with Artic Silver stuff. Isopropyl does a better job.

 

[AsRock]

Seen so many users recommending a tooth brush. This is something I will never used, It's just too hard. I use a new small to medium paint brush which is softer not only for real PGA CPU but for motherboards. Because the brush is softer it can get into tighter places.

A tooth brush can scratch a device & can bend or even break a PGA CPU or LGA socket. I do not recommend a tooth brush for any electrical cleaning.

Use a tooth brush for cleaning flux on the PCB after never had a issue over 30 years. Some common sense goes a long way too as you have to be careful of ESD. Brushes tend to have the odd fall out too and if you using cheap paint brushes you increasing the ESD. And if your scratching some thing wih a tooth brush god help us all take some doing. Again common sense goes a long way.

Not saying a brush is not good just that we just use what works best for that person.

 

[R-T-B]

I had liquid metal stains on a CPU pin once. Don't ask me how. I have... amazing problems.

For your issue a microfiber cloth and some alcohol is what I'd do.

 

[lexluthermiester]

For your issue a microfiber cloth and some alcohol is what I'd do.

This would work well too. There is potential for static with microfiber, but not a huge potential. I generally use cotton cloth.

 

[theFOoL]

Ok I've looked through this thread twice and unless the OP is meaning he applied paste in the inside meaning he opened up the top portion of the cover and accidentally spread some which is awful step but anyway I don't see any paste what so ever but that crap circle line made by paint program in Windows. Also through like 5 post I've seen tooth brush this and tooth brush that.

As mentioned like 3 post below the OP just LEAVE IT

 

[delshay]

Use a tooth brush for cleaning flux on the PCB after never had a issue over 30 years. Some common sense goes a long way too as you have to be careful of ESD. Brushes tend to have the odd fall out too and if you using cheap paint brushes you increasing the ESD. And if your scratching some thing wih a tooth brush god help us all take some doing. Again common sense goes a long way.

Not saying a brush is not good just that we just use what works best for that person.

Again I say no, but if that works for you, then that's fine.

If you are working on something small that has 0402 resistor or smaller components a tooth brush is just too hard. Take note from what i have already said in this thread. If you soak just the area you are trying to clean it will come off very easy with a soft paint brush. Just dab the area a number of times with Isopropyl keeping it wet. After a period of time when it come to cleaning that area it will come off very, very, easy. I also use flux & had no problem using Isopropyl to remove it.

If i'm also feeling lazy, I just use my ultrasonic cleaner, even thou the heater on my unit works intermittently.

 

[John Naylor]

I have some of the Artic Silver cleaning stuff too, But the big cans of Isopropyl is easy to spot than find those small bottles.

I can't speak to what AS5 has as their paste is capacitive and takes forever to cure. I like the small bottled cause a) they fit in my PC toolbox and b) my kids don't steal it when they get a pimple. When not available, I'll use 99%, readily available in 16 ounce bottles from Walmart ($10.94) ... worth the cost increase over the 91% ($9.16) to my eyes. But even 99% means 1% impurities and yes, the 1% leaves detectable residue. I see it every time I wipe my screen down. Doesn't happen with Indigo.

I recently sent in inquiry into the Indigo folks because I had difficulty finding it. The little bottle typically lasts me for about 20-25 builds ... received a call from them about 2 weeks later. I would love to have my little plastic parts box that comes with Phanteks cases to hold screws have an extra slot to hold a small brush and cleaner and suggested that they partner with PC component manufacturers to include a bottle, a brush and an application tool like ya get with Gelid Extreme (comes in real handy when aplying TIM to 25 surfaces when installing a water block) . He asked me to send a few pics of things we had talked about so I asked for their address ... turned out he was the president of the company.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Obviously, preventing any TIM (thermal interface material) or any other contaminate from getting in the socket or contact side of the processor in the first place should be the goal. So proactive planning and care is essential to eliminate that possibility. But of course hindsight is 20/20 - or sure should be.

ESD might be a problem with any brush, but a brush with some types of synthetic bristles tend to be more susceptible to ESD. So a quality "natural" (animal hair) brush would be a better choice. I keep a stock of these horsehair brushes in the shop just for such sensitive cleaning jobs. With a soft touch, these brushes are delicate enough for CPU/socket pins and with a heavy touch, these brushes are strong enough for a good scrubbing of circuit boards without fear of scratching or damaging anything. And note the conductive metal handles help ensure there is no static buildup. These brushes are highly recommended and so inexpensive, they can be used for many one-time then throw-away projects too.

Another problem with synthetic bristles (including some toothbrushes) is the solvents might eat the bristles and leave that residue on the socket or CPU contacts. Not good!

That said, I would much rather use a "soft" toothbrush than a rag because you can more easily see what you are doing, be very localized in where you brush, and more easily get deep down in there for a thorough cleaning. Also, you can easily regulate the pressure you apply. Just test the brush with your solvent first to make sure it does not dissolve in the solvent.

Another option is to try some quality electrical contact cleaner. This in combination with a soft touch with one of those horsehair brushes is what I would do.

Dipping a complete CPU in Isopropyl should not damage it.

Submerging a processor in any liquid, including solvents, is a bad idea! The IHS on many CPUs are NOT attached with a "watertight" or air tight seal! In fact, many CPU IHSs have a tiny pressure relief hole (see down and to the right of the "7") in them just to allow air (and thus liquids) to flow in and out. This is to prevent positive and negative pressures caused during heat up/cool down cycles and the resulting expansion/contraction of matter those heat/cool cycles bring.

You do NOT want a bunch of solvent trapped inside your IHS eating away at the TIM inside!

 

[lexluthermiester]

Submerging a processor in any liquid, including solvents, is a bad idea!

Agreed. Always a bad, bloody-minded idea. No one should ever do this.

 

[delshay]

Dipping a complete CPU in Isopropyl should not damage it.

I was directing my posting @Jetster as he has a dellided processor (with screenshot) & that's what I deal with all the time but with much older processors. Like I said I have never submerged a processor, & if Jetster or myself drop the delidded processor into lets say a bucket of water, nothing will happen to it, as they are delidded processor(s). You just have to make sure it is well dry before it is powered up again.

Not all processor has thermal paste, some are soldered. This is why we see experiments where the whole complete computer is submerged & powered-up for the ultimate cooling. I have even seen this done with no heatsink on the CPU. How long do you think it work when a complete motherboard is submerged, take your own guess or do a research on it. What i'm trying to point out here, is it is possible to submerged something & even power it up without breaking it, at lease in the short term.

I'm not saying submerging anything is good for it, but they invented ultrasonic cleaners for a purpose.

As for why I don't use a toothbrush, is because in the past it has knock off 0402 resistors/capacitors. I don't know if it's down to poor soldering, but I do know it's just to hard. So to avoid this happening, I use a soft paint brush & never had a problem with it. What works for me may not work for others, each to they own.

EDIT CORRECTION: I have said I have never submerged a processor, this is incorrect "I have", it was a long time ago. After reballing a PPC 603e processor I would drop this into the ultrasonic cleaner to remove flux. This is where I can get lazy.

 

[Bill_Bright]

This is why we see experiments where the whole complete computer is submerged & powered-up for the ultimate cooling.

Not in water and not in solvents.

What i'm trying to point out here, is it is possible to submerged something & power it up without breaking it, at lease in the short term.

That is what you are saying now - but not what you said then. Isopropyl alcohol is a solvent. And this thread is about helping tommy_123 clean his processor. Not about running experiments on submerged computers.

 

[delshay]

Not in water and not in solvents.

This says it all

That is what you are saying now - but not what you said then. Isopropyl alcohol is a solvent. And this thread is about helping tommy_123 clean his processor. Not about running experiments on submerged computers.

Read the thread carefully. I have already pointed out to the OP my advise how to clean it. Also see posting before this, it has been updated.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Not fake? Yeah right. It may not be totally fake but it is deceptive. That sure ain't plain old tap water.

Regardless, I am not going to get dragged into side arguments. Submerging a CPU in a solvent like Isopropyl alcohol is not a wise idea.

 

[delshay]

Not fake? Yeah right. It may not be totally fake but it is deceptive. That sure ain't plain old tap water.

Regardless, I am not going to get dragged into side arguments. Submerging a CPU in a solvent like Isopropyl alcohol is not a wise idea.

I knew about motherboard experiments working under water years ago. I also know it does not last that long. If I remember correctly after about 20-40 mins, it will then start to spit-out errors.

If you want to talk about CPU being submerged under Isopropyl, I can do this for you, ie, carry out an experiment, but I will have a fair guess on a delidded processor nothing will happen to it. Processors that have IHS/ thermal paste, granted is a problem, but you have just opened a question. Users who run these CPUs under LN2, how are the thermals when returning back to normal air cooling. I would expect most if not all LN2 user would say they have always run naked. Perhaps a LN2 overclocker can answer this question.

 

[Bill_Bright]

If you want to talk about CPU being submerged under Isopropyl

I don't. That's not what the OP asked for.