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Trouble with turning on PC by pressing power button

Joined
Jan 6, 2014
Messages
600 (0.14/day)
Location
Germany
System Name Main Machine
Processor Intel i9-14900K
Motherboard ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Apex Encore
Cooling Water cooling, 2x EK-DDC 3.2 PWM, 1x360mm+1x420mm EK, Mora 420 Pro, Thermal Grizzly Mycro Pro DD
Memory G.SKILL 32GB DDR5-8000
Video Card(s) MSI 4090 Suprim Liquid with Water Block
Storage 2x WD_BLACK SN850X 2TB und 4TB, 2x8TB Seagate Ironwolf
Display(s) ASUS ROG Swift PG27AQDM OLED, 240Hz
Case ASUS GR701 Hyperion
Audio Device(s) Turtle Beach Stealth Pro
Power Supply Seasonic Prime TX-1600 1600W ATX 3.0
Mouse Logitech G903 LIGHTSPEED Wireless
Keyboard SteelSeries Apex Pro
Software Win 11
I am having some trouble with starting the PC since the last few days.
Maybe somebody can give an advice. :)
My own analysis leads me somehow to believe that the PSU is having problems.

Here is the description of the issue.
PC does not want to start by pressing the Power button on PC Case or even the power button that is on the mainboard. The different RGB LEDs on the mainboard would be on, but pressing the Power button does nothing. It simply does not start at all.

I have to flip the power switch located on the PSU halfway through multiple time before it starts.
The power switch on PSU or something else with it seems to be having a problem.
Maybe my 4.5 year old Bequiet! Dark Power Pro 10 1200W is starting to die. :(

Once I get it to turn on by flipping PSU switch multiple times, then the system runs very stable without any issue.
I had many lengthy gaming sessions up to 5 hours in a row playing Witcher 3, Rise of the Tomb Raider and Battlefield 1 without it ever giving me any issues.
I have run benchmarks on the CPU and GPU to try to stress the PSU but no problems there.

I have also disabled Fast Startup as I thought that it could be one that is causing issues but it did not help.
I have also updated bios to the latest and reset it by removing the battery but it also did not help.
I also disconnected multiple USB devices as I read that attached USB devices could be another cause for such problems.

The i7 7700K is not overclocked.
The Vega 64 is running in undervolting mode at 1075mV with a 2.5% overclock.
I changes it in Wattman to default setting but it seems Vega is not to be blamed for boot up issues.

Only thing that helps is that I have to press the PSU switch halfway through multiple time for PC to start. :banghead:


Motherboard: ASUS ROG MAXIMUS IX CODE
Processor: Intel i7-7700K (Custom cooled)
Cooling: Water cooling, EK-DDC 3.2 PWM, 2x240mm+1x120mm Rads, CPU XSPC RayStorm
Memory: 16GB G.Skill RipJaws DDR4-3200 CL16-18-18-38
Video Card(s): Sapphire R9 Radeon Vega 64 (Custom cooled)
Hard Disk(s): Samsung SSD 960 EVO NVMe 250GB, Samsung SSD 840 EVO 1TB, Samsung SSD 840 Pro 256GB,4x3TB Seagate
Optical Drive: Blu-ray Rewriter BH10LS30
LCD/CRT Model: BenQ ZOWIE XL2730 144Hz 27 inch Freesync
Case: Cooler Master Storm Trooper with side window
Sound Card: Turtle Beach Elite Pro Tournament + Elite Pro TAC
Power Supply: be quiet! Dark Power Pro 10 1200W
Mouse: Logitech G900 Chaos Spectrum
Keyboard: ROCCAT Ryos MK Pro
Software: Win 10 Pro
 
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Considering the money you have invested in the rest of the system i would definitely change the PSU or at least borrow one to test with.
 
I would start with the psu could have a relay or a capacitor going bad which would explain it not wanting to cold start
 
The PSU is the only thing that is old in this PC.
The rest is very recent. I build the PC back in May and Vega is only three weeks old.
The problem started around a week ago.
It could be very well dried Capacitor.
This happen with electrolytic capacitors after a few years.

I don't know anybody who has a decent PSU lying around to borrow. :oops:
I am considering to order one online, because then I can return it in case the problem persists even with other PSU.
 
its a 80/20 chance its the psu you aren't gonna know untill you either test the psu with a meter or replace it
 
My first Seasonic X-1050 died the same death. Exactly the same as you're describing until eventually it just stopped all together. Good warranty and RMA got me another one that's been fine for I guess 2 years or so at least.
So my advice is replace it before it completely packs up.
 
My first Seasonic X-1050 died the same death. Exactly the same as you're describing until eventually it just stopped all together. Good warranty and RMA got me another one that's been fine for I guess 2 years or so at least.
So my advice is replace it before it completely packs up.

I am considering among the following three PSUs as replacement:

be quiet! Dark Power Pro 11 Modular 80+ Platinum
Corsair Professional Series HX1200i Modular 80+ Platinum
Corsair HX1200 Modular 80+ Platinum

Be quiet is to me well know and more widely available in Germany because they are German company.
Corsair makes also usually good products, but I don't know about their PSU if they are good.

Corsair Pro HX1200i and be quiet Dark Pro 11 are very close in price.
HX1200 is cheaper.
 
With Corsair you just need to avoid their budget models which you obviously would anyway. I'm pretty much a dedicated Seasonic user. Mine has a 5 year warranty. Now they have like 7 and 10 year warranties and well Seasonic are top tier PSUs
 
With Corsair you just need to avoid their budget models which you obviously would anyway. I'm pretty much a dedicated Seasonic user. Mine has a 5 year warranty. Now they have like 7 and 10 year warranties and well Seasonic are top tier PSUs

I just looked on the website of Be quiet and I almost forgot that I have 5 years warranty. :p
So in theory I still have about three more month of warranty left on it.
I will contact them tomorrow. I hope I can RMA it directly with Be quiet (Listan).
The online shop where I bought it has gone bankrupt since two years ago.

But still I think I have to first organize another PSU to test to be sure that it is the PSU.
I am really considering Corsair Professional Series HX1200i.
Corsair seems to also offer 7 years warranty on these in Germany.
 
yeah, its the PSU.

Have the same PSU and the same problem.

BeQuiet does not know what is wrong.
On the upside, mine has been like that for over a year, and is still working.
 
yeah, its the PSU.

Have the same PSU and the same problem.

BeQuiet does not know what is wrong.
On the upside, mine has been like that for over a year, and is still working.

Thanks for the feedback.
I have ordered Corsair Professional Series HX1200i for testing.
Hopefully will arrive on Friday.

When I become sure that the PSU is faulty, I wouldn't use it afterwards.
I had a friend with Enermax that was causing some issues and a few weeks later it died and also killed his mainboard.

I have a 240 Radiator at the bottom of the case next to PSU.
HX1200i is 1cm longer than my Be quiet. Hopefully radiator will not make cable routing difficult out of the new PSU. :ohwell:
 
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Take a look at their focus+ series (in gold, platinum,&iirc titanium) they're spectacularly priced right now(recently released models) They offer a minimum 10year warranty, & obviously come with that peace of mind that a seasonic brings.I just ordered one to replace the Corsair that shit the bed after eight years

https://seasonic.com/product/focus-plus-850-platinum/
 
As my original suspicion, it turned out that it was the power supply that was causing the issue I mentioned in OP. :mad:

I mentioned before that I have ordered Corsair Professional Series HX1200i for testing.

After I exchanged the PSU the problem has disappeared.
I found out that I still have 6 weeks of warranty left from the 5 years on the Be quiet and support team told me that I can RMA it directly with them.
I don't have to go over the e-retailer which is good as the e-retailer where I bought it has gone bankrupt two years ago. :p

I think I will keep the Corsair also.
I have been testing it and I liked the Corsair Link feature which allows me to monitor and log power draw on the different PSU voltages.
It generates very convenient CSV files that one can analyse.

I find this feature really useful as I am currently fine tuning the Vega 64.
I am experimenting with undervolting along with overclocking with power limit set to 50% in Wattman.
I can check how the power draw on the 12V line varies with different Vega 64 voltage and frequency setting compared to Balanced mode.
The idea is to find an optimum point for undervolted Vega with average frequency staying higher than stock and with least penalty on the power side in comparison to Balanced mode.
 
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