Troubleshooting random home internet service drops

[Divide Overflow]

I’m on Cox cable for my home internet and have been having issues for several months that has been difficult to resolve. Four months ago I upgraded to a 300/30 internet service plan. I ordered a new DOSIS 3.1 cable modem from Cox’s compatible equipment list since I like owning my own equipment instead of being charged monthly rent for theirs. By their recommendation, I picked a Motorola MB 8600. I have an ASUS RT-88U router attached with hard wired and wireless devices attached. I am losing internet connectivity at random every couple of days. Sometimes more often, sometimes less. Timing is completely at random. Morning, afternoon, evenings and at night the issue can suddenly appear.

When I'm experiencing the problem Cox can not detect my modem on their network, and they confirm there is no outage in my area. The modem remains powered and looks like it’s operating normally, but there is no network service until I initiate a power cycle. The power cycle will immediately restore my connection.

I’ve tried plugging directly into the cable modem to eliminate the router and the problem still occurs. I’ve tried replacing network cables and the problem still occurs. I’ve checked the electrical wiring, changed power outlets and replaced a power strip and the problem still occurs. I’ve had Cox out to my home a half dozen times already to check the wiring and they claim the signal is good. I had a drop out while one of their techs was at my home and they advised that the cable modem must be defective and to have it replaced.

Cox provided me with a loaner Arris 8200 cable modem which worked perfectly for two weeks while my RMA was processed with Motorola. On Saturday the replacement arrived (brand new) and I swapped it out on my account over the phone with Cox. Two days later and the problem is back with the new MB 8600. The day after I returned the loaner modem since they were going to begin charging me for it's use.

Motorola is telling me that the cable modem is working properly and the fault is in the line. They point to a number of uncorrected errors on some channels as noise in the line that is dropping service. Cox tells me that the line is clean, the errors are normal and the problem must be with my equipment.

Is anyone familiar with how many errors per channel are tolerable over cable internet service? I’m struggling to determine my next steps, but if the other model cable modem was working without problem I may have to abandon my MB 8600 and switch over to a different make / model that actually works consistently. Status info from logging into the cable modem (uptime is only six hours) :

 

[Bill_Bright]

Motorola is telling me that the cable modem is working properly and the fault is in the line. They point to a number of uncorrected errors on some channels as noise in the line that is dropping service. Cox tells me that the line is clean, the errors are normal and the problem must be with my equipment.

It does look that way, but the odds of two being bad are slim. Possible, but slim. Have you replaced the cable between the modem and router? These very low teck, but critical items are essential for proper operation, and so easily damaged, and overlooked.

 

[Divide Overflow]

Yes, coax from wall jack to cable modem has been replaced. Patch cables from cable modem to router, and from router to devices have been replaced.

 

[Durvelle27]

I’m leaning toward needing a new main line

 

[95Viper]

Check that your connections are tight and secure. this includes the ones outside, inside, and at splitters.
Have you had any outages due to lightning strikes? I did, it affected everything with dropouts. Was weird, worked fine then not. Had to replaced a section of cable and a splitter on a leg going to upstairs..

 

[Durvelle27]

How are the connections ran

Is the main line going directly inside to the modem or are there any splitters or amps on the line

 

[Solaris17]

splitters

this, if there is a tap or splitter lose it could cause a problem, happened to me personally. went out and put a cap on it (the metal ones that screw in) worked wonders for the project I was doing.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I’m leaning toward needing a new main line

My thought too, except they checked the line and said it was good. And since that is a simple, easy to determine process (all you need is the right equipment, it doesn't take a master technician), I suspect the line is good. Plus, the problem seems to be intermittent, which would rule out the cable itself (but not necessarily the cable connectors - especially if they flop around in the wind).

FTR, I also have Cox cable.

So I am going along with the suggestions about splitters. They don't have to have loose connections to be causing your problem - especially those located on the outside of the house, where they (splitters and cable itself) are exposed to the weather (rain, wind and UV from the sun).

If you have any splitters on the outside of the house, don't worry about tight connections on them! Just replace the splitter with a proper splitter (see example below). If me, and if possible, I would replace the F-type connectors (on the cable ends) too, with quality, weather proof connectors. If you have never done this, be prepared to practice on scrap cable, sacrificing a couple connectors in the learning process. But note you need a little slack in the cable to do this because you will need to cut off a couple inches from each end.

Then move to the inside and inspect and replace as necessary any splitters in need of replacing. May sure you ONLY use the proper splitters. If you need a 2-way, don't use a 3-way. Unused splitter output connectors still divide the signal strenght whether a cable is connected to it or not! (So to Solaris17, that cap on any unused connector was a temporary solution - the splitter needs to be replaced unless you meant you put a "weather" cap or "boot" over used connections). A weather proof J-box would be best if an outside splitter is necessary.

The proper splitters MUST also support the right frequency range. So make sure all splitters are rated from 5 (or lower) Hz up to at least 2050MHz (I go for 5 - 2400Hz). Note that many older splitters that were installed with just cable TV (no Internet) in mind may not exceed 1700MHz or even 1000MHz .

Try to position any outdoor splitter so it is not exposed to the elements (or sun). If possible, use only a 2-Way splitter on the "drop" (the cable entering the house). Output 1 should go directly to your modem. Output 2 goes to all your TVs.

And don't worry about gold vs silver colored splitters. The gold ones are not really gold. And if you notice that splitter in that link above, it has a "pass-through" connector for a ground cable. If you have a lot of interference problems in your area (from nearby microwave or cell towers, power grid distribution center, or air traffic control or weather RADARs), you might consider running a ground to a properly installed Earth grounding rod too.

Ideally, you can get a cable setup like I got after a storm took out a tree that took out my cable drop. Cox had to replace the full run from the pole into the house. I talked the tech into giving me enough extra cable length to bring the run into the house and straight up into the closet in my computer room. He was glad to since I said I would take care of it all from there. So I have no splitters outside. Then I have a good 2-way splitter in the closet with one side going directly to the modem and the other side goes to additional splitters to feed various TVs and cable boxes throughout the house. So I have great signal strength unaffected by weather and wind.

Last, learn how to make your own cables. Buy a quality crimping tool and wire stripper. And again, practice on scrap cable first sacrificing a few connectors in the learning process. In this way, if you need a 16 foot cable, you can make a 16 foot cable. You don't have to buy a 25 foot cable. Or if you need a small 6 inch cable in your wiring closet, you make one. You don't need to use a 6 foot cable. Plus, many pre-made cables (and/or their connectors) are simply crap. I always make my own Ethernet cables too. The only way to go! Don't cheap out on cheap crimpers. You will regret it.

And the old woodworkers adage applies to making cables too. If you experience the old problem, "I cut it twice and it's still too short!", it is time to take a break.

 

[Durvelle27]

My thought too, except they checked the line and said it was good. And since that is a simple, easy to determine process (all you need is the right equipment, it doesn't take a master technician), I suspect the line is good. Plus, the problem seems to be intermittent, which would rule out the cable itself (but not necessarily the cable connectors - especially if they flop around in the wind).

FTR, I also have Cox cable.

So I am going along with the suggestions about splitters. They don't have to have loose connections to be causing your problem - especially those located on the outside of the house, where they (splitters and cable itself) are exposed to the weather (rain, wind and UV from the sun).

If you have any splitters on the outside of the house, don't worry about tight connections on them! Just replace the splitter with a proper splitter (see example below). If me, and if possible, I would replace the F-type connectors (on the cable ends) too, with quality, weather proof connectors. If you have never done this, be prepared to practice on scrap cable, sacrificing a couple connectors in the learning process. But note you need a little slack in the cable to do this because you will need to cut off a couple inches from each end.

Then move to the inside and inspect and replace as necessary any splitters in need of replacing. May sure you ONLY use the proper splitters. If you need a 2-way, don't use a 3-way. Unused splitter output connectors still divide the signal strenght whether a cable is connected to it or not! (So to Solaris17, that cap on any unused connector was a temporary solution - the splitter needs to be replaced unless you meant you put a "weather" cap or "boot" over used connections). A weather proof J-box would be best if an outside splitter is necessary.

The proper splitters MUST also support the right frequency range. So make sure all splitters are rated from 5 (or lower) Hz up to at least 2050MHz (I go for 5 - 2400Hz). Note that many older splitters that were installed with just cable TV (no Internet) in mind may not exceed 1700MHz or even 1000MHz .

Try to position any outdoor splitter so it is not exposed to the elements (or sun). If possible, use only a 2-Way splitter on the "drop" (the cable entering the house). Output 1 should go directly to your modem. Output 2 goes to all your TVs.

And don't worry about gold vs silver colored splitters. The gold ones are not really gold. And if you notice that splitter in that link above, it has a "pass-through" connector for a ground cable. If you have a lot of interference problems in your area (from nearby microwave or cell towers, power grid distribution center, or air traffic control or weather RADARs), you might consider running a ground to a properly installed Earth grounding rod too.

Ideally, you can get a cable setup like I got after a storm took out a tree that took out my cable drop. Cox had to replace the full run from the pole into the house. I talked the tech into giving me enough extra cable length to bring the run into the house and straight up into the closet in my computer room. He was glad to since I said I would take care of it all from there. So I have no splitters outside. Then I have a good 2-way splitter in the closet with one side going directly to the modem and the other side goes to additional splitters to feed various TVs and cable boxes throughout the house. So I have great signal strength unaffected by weather and wind.

Last, learn how to make your own cables. Buy a quality crimping tool and wire stripper. And again, practice on scrap cable first sacrificing a few connectors in the learning process. In this way, if you need a 16 foot cable, you can make a 16 foot cable. You don't have to buy a 25 foot cable. Or if you need a small 6 inch cable in your wiring closet, you make one. You don't need to use a 6 foot cable. Plus, many pre-made cables (and/or their connectors) are simply crap. I always make my own Ethernet cables too. The only way to go! Don't cheap out on cheap crimpers. You will regret it.

And the old woodworkers adage applies to making cables too. If you experience the old problem, "I cut it twice and it's still too short!", it is time to take a break.

I wouldn’t rule out a bad line just because they said it was ok. Kinks in the line can cause intermediate drops which may not always show up in test, suckout on connectors as well, stingers to long, etc...

All can cause intermediate issues with connection

Also about the splitter Recommendation please avoid any gold plated ones at all cost as no matter the one I came across they cause bad interference same with gold plate barrel connectors or wall plates.

This type of problem is trial an error honestly.

Since you can’t test the main line yourself steps I’d do

Check all fittings for suckout or to long stingers
Check all wall plates
Check splitters
Remove any unused splitters
Check actual lines; if the lines are stiff they need to be replaced, if the lines have any powered reside on the inside it has gotten water in them so they need to be replaced, if the line is small and the stinger is very thin it is likely RG59 and also needs to be replaced.

 

[Divide Overflow]

Check that your connections are tight and secure. this includes the ones outside, inside, and at splitters.
Have you had any outages due to lightning strikes? I did, it affected everything with dropouts. Was weird, worked fine then not. Had to replaced a section of cable and a splitter on a leg going to upstairs..

I thought much the same, and had them check and remove an unused splitter on the first on site service call several months ago. (No lightning strikes in my area) They reterminated all the lines and have run multiple signal tests at the wall jack and at the outside box and keep telling me that the line is clean. Something is still very wrong though. It went down again last night. Called Cox and they couldn't see the modem again. A quick power cycle and it's reconnected and they tell me the signal is strong. I'm trying to escalate this thru Cox but the finger pointing is driving me crazy.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I wouldn’t rule out a bad line just because they said it was ok. Kinks in the line can cause intermediate drops which may not always show up in test, suckout on connectors as well, stingers to long, etc...

I am not ruling it out. It is just since it has been checked out and it is not likely the ISP is going to replace it, the OP needs to check everything else that may be the problem. As for kinks, true, but hopefully a visual inspection can reveal any. There sure should not be any from the pole to the house. Insides the walls and floors of the house could be an issue. But then inside the house is typically the homeowner's responsibility anyway.

As for gold "plated" splitters, I agree to avoid them - and any that are "plated" as the plating can "flake" off. But simply gold "colored" is not a problem. Just don't assume being gold is better. If real gold, it would be since real gold does not corrode. But gold is too expensive so is not used. Generally (except maybe with high-end audiophile cable connectors) gold colored is just a marketing gimmick.

 

[Durvelle27]

I am not ruling it out. It is just since it has been checked out and it is not likely the ISP is going to replace it, the OP needs to check everything else that may be the problem. As for kinks, true, but hopefully a visual inspection can reveal any. There sure should not be any from the pole to the house. Insides the walls and floors of the house could be an issue. But then inside the house is typically the homeowner's responsibility anyway.

As for gold "plated" splitters, I agree to avoid them - and any that are "plated" as the plating can "flake" off. But simply gold "colored" is not a problem. Just don't assume being gold is better. If real gold, it would be since real gold does not corrode. But gold is too expensive so is not used. Generally (except maybe with high-end audiophile cable connectors) gold colored is just a marketing gimmick.

Sometimes a visual inspection isn’t enough as even the smallest bend can cause flux in the line

That really depends as with Comcast we did replace lines inside the home or apartment if they were found to be bad.

Yep I would not touch with a 10ft pole

 

[Bill_Bright]

Yes, I am aware that the smallest bend can also cause problems. But if there is actually a bend, bends in metal don't come and go. The braided shielding is one thing, but the solid copper wire in the middle is another. Once bent, it remains bent. And once again, I am not ruling it out. But they have already tested it so everything else needs to be ruled out before calling them again.

 

[Divide Overflow]

Cox field service was back to my home this afternoon for the seventh time in recent memory. They are suggesting that I try to use their Arris 8200 cable modem instead of the certified compliant Motorola MB 8600 that they originally recommended to me. They tried to get me to pay for the replacement in full but I refused and they eventually gave it to me for free. I'm not sure why one DOCSIS 3.1 modem works while another (allegedly compliant) model doesn't but I won't argue with what works. Here's hoping that the new modem is stable. So much for compatibility lists from the cable companies! Thanks to all for their suggestions and recommendations.

 

[95Viper]

they eventually gave it to me for free.

Good for getting it free... just keep an eye on the bill and make sure they don't try to slip a charge in on you for it.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I'm not sure why one DOCSIS 3.1 modem works while another (allegedly compliant) model doesn't but I won't argue with what works.

Assuming there were not a rash of faulty modems, I can only guess there was some firmware update that made them incompatible.

 

[Durvelle27]

Assuming there were not a rash of faulty modems, I can only guess there was some firmware update that made them incompatible.

Another thing is if there is a fault in the line somewhere not all modems would be affected As 16x4 modems will connect to more channels than say a 8x4 Modem so offending channels wouldn’t be there

 

[Deleted member 67555]

I had the same issue for 3 years with Time Warner... Even down to replacing the modem 3 times.
What solved it was an ice storm breaking the line from the pole to my house . After it was replaced the problem was gone

When I say the same problem I mean the same...I bought a modem and it worked for 6 months without issue then it started.. On the second Field call they gave us a modem..4 months later it started happening again.... Very frustrating
BTW your modern it theirs doesn't matter they gimp them down in the firmware... That's why it has to be certified compatible... So they can take your nice fast multi-channel modem and make it run at 8x4 max

 

[Bill_Bright]

Another thing is if there is a fault in the line somewhere not all modems would be affected As 16x4 modems will connect to more channels than say a 8x4 Modem so offending channels wouldn’t be there

Huh? RG-6 uses one solid copper wire conductor. So not sure what you mean by some channels having connectivity and others not.

Nor do I see how that would affect one modem and not another. The channels are not dedicated to a specific part of that one solid copper wire. The RF is scattered together through the conductor and sorted out at the modem end. Yes, the 16x4 modem would see more channels, but if frequency channels were missing, it would not matter which modem is being used - the channel would still be missing. But also, missing channels would be easy for the technician to determine.

Besides, since the problem was resolved by one 32x8 modem replacing a different 32x8 modem, that would, once again, suggest the line is fine - for now.

I agree with 95Viper. Keep an eye on your bill. And also, keep an eye on the weather - specifically, note what happens when the wind picks up, as well as when it rains.

 

[Divide Overflow]

Another thing is if there is a fault in the line somewhere not all modems would be affected As 16x4 modems will connect to more channels than say a 8x4 Modem so offending channels wouldn’t be there

Which is odd, because both the Motorola MB8600 and the Arris 8200 are 32x8 channel devices.

 

[Deleted member 67555]

I agree with 95Viper. Keep an eye on your bill. And also, keep an eye on the weather - specifically, note what happens when the wind picks up, as well as when it rains.

This∆
We noticed connection speed changes with humidity and dropped connections with wind changing directions etc.... Was annoying AF