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Two-pass radiator ( inlet/outlet - mistake )

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What do you want me to do know? :laugh:
Hi,
lol
Well this one is already half done
You already know what your room temperature is I think lol

Now most all boards come with sensor ports people can use for numerous places on a build as long as the sensor wires "that come with the boards" are long enough to reach
Well the rads are close enough to setup one or two onto the rad and pick up the air temp.
 

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Hi,
Look at your web manual and board layout
There is likely 1-2 maybe 3 T-sensors
In the board box should be two wire sensor cables that's what they are for
1631725968695.png
 

FireFox

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Hi,
Look at your web manual and board layout
There is likely 1-2 maybe 3 T-sensors
In the board box should be two wire sensor cables that's what they are for
View attachment 217066
I know that.
I meant where exactly into the case ( which part )
 
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I know that.
I meant where exactly into the case ( which part )
Hi,
If your fans on the rads are intake add one sensor wire on the inside of the rad
Opposite if exhaust.
 
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So after skimming through, which is better, a dual core radiator or a thicker single core?
 
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So after skimming through, which is better, a dual core radiator or a thicker single core?
Depends on the radiator flow to fin surface area ratio; Dual cores have more contact area with the fins than single core given the same internal cross section, but this is only likely to have an impact if that is the limiting factor in your loop, and I'd bet that 99.9% of the time it isn't - which makes the difference either negligible or irrelevant.

Probably best to just compare radiator vs radiator in objective benchmarks than worry about the design of the radiator itself:
 

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Hi,
If your fans on the rads are intake add one sensor wire on the inside of the rad
Opposite if exhaust.
I didn't run the test last night because it was late and i had to find the sensor cables.
My motherboard has just one Thermal Sensor header, having 2 front rads in series how should i run the test, one by one, would it makes sense?
 
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I didn't run the test last night because it was late and i had to find the sensor cables.
My motherboard has just one Thermal Sensor header, having 2 front rads in series how should i run the test, one by one, would it makes sense?
Hi,
Yeah mine too
I'd just put on the front rad
It really just needs to be in the air flow not mounted on the actual rad
Just tape it to something I believe you have a psu cover that goes nearly to the front rad already so that would be good and close enough.
 

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Hi,
Yep 6c difference is more interesting than the little 2c on the water temp difference :cool:

Also shows heat from rads as intake is not as bad as some say it is.

Oops what was your room temperature 25c ? that is what the difference works off of :doh:
 
Last edited:

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6c difference between what?


It was 27c
Hi,
Difference I posted was t sensor reading min-29c & max-35c = 6c

But 27c room and 35c max air through the rad = 8c difference not bad.
 

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But 27c room and 35c max air through the rad = 8c difference not bad.
You know how restrictive those Hardware Labs black Ice Nemesis GTX are and tbh the Corsair LL120 aren't the best for those Rads.
 
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You know how restrictive those Hardware Labs black Ice Nemesis GTX are and tbh the Corsair LL120 aren't the best for those Rads.
Hi,
Yeah I do, gtx is very tight finned series pretty much why I push/ pull fans on rads to get some damn air through them easier and thus lower rpm needed :cool:
 

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Hi,
Yeah I do, gtx is very tight finned series pretty much why I push/ pull fans on rads to get some damn air through them easier and thus lower rpm needed :cool:
if i was 100% sure that push/pull would decrease the temp at least 5c then i could think about it.
 
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if i was 100% sure that push/pull would decrease the temp at least 5c then i could think about it.
Hi,
Think it's more about lowing fan rpm's for everyday stuff doing push/ pull
Max oc'ing I suppose it helps that too but never gauged it, doubt it's 5c lower though

I only have one side fans "12 x 120mm" on my mora3 360mm rads totally different design.
 

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I really don't see how any of this is "lying" if one has the brain capacity to put two and two together, and figure out that TDP doesn't govern jack shit related to actual power consumption for either company, and hasn't ever in recent memory. The only reason it's in the spotlight now is because of the wide gulf between base clock and boost clock. PL1 isn't some new kid on the block.

Now for mobile chips, Intel does some nefarious marketing manipulation using its TDP-up and TDP-down mechanism to misrepresent what its chips actually do in a practical TDP configuration. Now THAT's borderline lying.

As for the "but my 4690K is efficient" LOL nice one, try putting an AVX load on that chip for once and see what "TDP" means. Sitting here looking over at my 4790K, trying to think of all the times when 88W ever meant anything to it

I had the opposite... I had SLI bridges (also 3way) for the whole family but I had to get a CF bridge as a donate from a interwebz buddy. :laugh:
 
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if i was 100% sure that push/pull would decrease the temp at least 5c then i could think about it.
VSG has test data for this on their 560GTR review at thermalbench. At 700RPM push/pull dropped temps on a 560GTX by 2.4C with 650w system power draw. Will be a more exaggerated difference if you have more heat load/less rad space.
 

FireFox

The Power Of Intel
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Will be a more exaggerated difference if you have more heat load/less rad space.
I have 2x 480 GTX and 1x 420 GTX.
I don't know how much difference it could makes
 
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I have 2x 480 GTX and 1x 420 GTX.
I don't know how much difference it could makes
LOL, you have 8x120mm fan and 3x140mm fan of radiator?

That's probably enough radiator to silently cool a 11900K @350W PL2 and a 3090

Rule of thumb is 25W per "fan" of radiator space passively, 50W for silent operation at ~600RPM per fan, and around 150W with performance fans at 100%

As a very rough estimate your loop can cool 325W passively (pump running ofc), 650W silently, and almost 2KW if you were brave/stupid enough to hook up that kind of load and some powerful fans :D
 

FireFox

The Power Of Intel
Joined
Feb 19, 2014
Messages
7,285 (2.62/day)
Location
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System Name BlackWidow
Processor Intel i7 10700K
Motherboard Asus ROG Maximus XII Hero
Cooling 2x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480 - 1x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 420 - D5 VPP655P - 13x Corsair LL120 - LL140
Memory 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Hz
Video Card(s) EVGA GEFORCE RTX 3080 XC3 Ultra
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Display(s) Asus ROG PG278QR 2560x1440 144Hz (Overclocked 165Hz )/ Samsung
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Mouse Logitech G502 spectrum
Keyboard Virtuis Advanced Gaming Keyboard
Software Windows 10 Enterprise/Windows 10 Pro/Windows 11 Pro
Benchmark Scores My PC runs FiFA
LOL, you have 8x120mm fan and 3x140mm fan of radiator?
Yup :D

That's probably enough radiator to silently cool a 11900K @350W PL2 and a 3090

Rule of thumb is 25W per "fan" of radiator space passively, 50W for silent operation at ~600RPM per fan, and around 150W with performance fans at 100%

As a very rough estimate your loop can cool 325W passively (pump running ofc), 650W silently, and almost 2KW if you were brave/stupid enough to hook up that kind of load and some powerful fans
As a matter of fact i run my fans at low rpm, as i mentioned before, the Corsair LL120 aren't the best when it comes to air flow but they are quite silent.

Btw, 650W, my build dreams about it:laugh:
 
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Hi,
Yeah the least expensive ...3080ti or 3090's are all being sold exclusively by bestbuy in the US so the chances of myself getting one is slim to none seeing I'm not driving across town to camp out for one.
My 2-280mm gtx wouldn't have a chance not sure two mora 360mm would help either lol
 
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