- Joined
- Apr 18, 2019
- Messages
- 2,928 (1.31/day)
- Location
- PNW, USA
System Name | Metalia |
---|---|
Processor | AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D |
Motherboard | Asus TuF Gaming X570-PLUS |
Cooling | ID Cooling 280mm AIO w/ Arctic P14s |
Memory | 2x32GB DDR4-3600 |
Video Card(s) | Sapphire Pulse RX 9070 XT |
Storage | Optane P5801X 400GB, Samsung 990Pro 2TB |
Display(s) | LG 32GS95UV 32" OLED 240/480hz 4K/1080P Dual Mode |
Case | Geometric Future M8 Dharma |
Audio Device(s) | Xonar Essence STX |
Power Supply | Seasonic Focus GX-1000 Gold |
Mouse | Attack Shark R3 Magnesium - White |
Keyboard | Keychron K8 Pro - White - Tactile Brown Switch |
Software | Windows 10 IoT Enterprise LTSC 2021 |
Have you tested your C-A adapting cables, directly connecting to a 3.0+ spec device?
A lot of USB-C cables (of all terminations-configurations), are 1.1-2.0 cables in USB3's clothing, or 'charge only' cables, or resistor-hacked 'fast charge' cables...
The specific configuration of cable you're looking @, is wrought w/ mis-labeling and outright fraud.
You might even consider getting cheapie USB-C and USB-A (3.0/3.1/3.2) breakout boards, so you can map any cables you have/get w/ a DMM.
A lot of USB-C cables (of all terminations-configurations), are 1.1-2.0 cables in USB3's clothing, or 'charge only' cables, or resistor-hacked 'fast charge' cables...
The specific configuration of cable you're looking @, is wrought w/ mis-labeling and outright fraud.
You might even consider getting cheapie USB-C and USB-A (3.0/3.1/3.2) breakout boards, so you can map any cables you have/get w/ a DMM.