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Using 2 PSU's to power the same system

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Dec 12, 2020
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I remember reading a long time ago that 1080ti's could cause problems for marginal PSU's. Lately, Metro:Exodus has been posting some ridiculous peak power usages (as well as voltage drops in the +12V PCIe supplementary power connectors of nearly 0.5) as indicated in both afterburner and HWiNFO64. Now when I'm playing Metro:Exodus my system locks up and on reboot my Samsung 870QVO 4 TiB has usually disappeared from the BIOS. I have a really old PSU, a Rosewill Capstone 750 Watt 80 Plus Gold, which is a 9 or 10 year old PSU. When I'm not playing Metro:Exodus none of these problems crop up (and none of my games draw as much current or power as Exodus). It's noteworthy the PEG +12V power (from the PCIe slot) doesn't suffer the same voltage drop as the supplementary PCIe power connectors under load.

I have two spare PSU's but I don't have the time to swap out my existing PSU. Would there be any issue hooking up the 1080ti PCIe supplementary power connectors to a separate PSU? Both PSU's would be hooked up to the same AC circuit so there wouldn't be any ground loops. This would be an experiment to see if my Rosewill PSU is the problem with Metro: Exodus.
 
It is not without risks. But miners do this all the time for example.

It does sound like the long-term solution is to replace that PSU. But for testing purposes it is possible to either jumper the second PSU to force start it, or you can purchase an adapter that will boot both at the same time. From the motherboard signal.

Don't blame me if your house burns down. ;)
 
If the PSU was the problem you'd get hard shutdowns instead of the system locking up, the SSD not showing up suggests that might actually be the problem.
 
Interesting, I used such a setup way back when with my GeForce FX 5900 and with Radeon 9800 Pro, where I used an old AT PSU that I manually turned on (had a switch outside) when turning on the PC, worked flawlessly. You could say it's an experiment, if it works it's good, if not, oh well; certainly not conventional.
 
Dual PSU isn't a risk.
Anything that plugs into the wall can kill. So there are always risks.

But in this scenario, assuming the use of dual PSUs is done correctly with undamaged, properly functional PSUs, those risks are minimal and not likely to one's physical safety.

The ATX Form Factor Standard allows for a tolerance deviation of ±5%. One PSU could be outputting +11.5V while the other +12.5 and technically still be in total compliance with the requirements. Yet that 1V "difference in potential" to a graphics card, for example, would mean +11.5V being supplied through the PCIe slot from one supply and +12.5V through the aux power connector from the other supply. which "may" (I did not say "will") result in stability issues for the card.

But the bigger, and more common issue deals with a "common ground" (or rather, the lack thereof) resulting in EMI/RFI. It is important to remember that no two wall outlets provide the exact same resistance path to Earth ground. The resistance through the outlets themselves will be different, but also the distance (and thus resistance) from the outlets back to the facility's Earth ground point in the service panel will different.

Plugging two high powered PSUs into the same wall outlet ensures a common ground, but could overload the circuit and trip the breaker - especially in older homes/facilities that may only have 15A circuits. For this reason, some users end up plugging their supplies into two different outlets. And that may result in a difference in potentials between the grounds.

The most common symptom (if any) is "noise" - as in electrical noise, perhaps a buzz in the audio, or lines on the monitor display or in a nearby TV. Another symptom is actually feeling a small "tingle" of an electric shock if you touch the PC case with one hand, and that second PSU case with the other.

I would NOT assume that would be safe if you had a heart pace maker! :(

The solution (preventative action) is actually quite simple and totally effective. Mount everything in a single, grounded equipment rack. But of course, that is not practical for most home users. So, simply attach some basic 22 AWG "Hookup" wire to a case screw on each case, ensuring the wire contacts bare (unpainted) metal, will establish that common ground.

BTW, if you have a home theater system where your audio components and video components (or big screen TV) are plugged into different outlets, creating a common ground with hookup wire is a common practice to eliminate/prevent interference issues. Same with Ham radio equipment.

Now I am also assuming the wall outlets are properly wired and grounded too. So every home and every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure the wall outlet is properly wired and grounded to Earth ground. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets (outlets near water) too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK, or this one for German outlets) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the home and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician.

@80251 - in addition to all of the above, I would first look at your heat and cooling situation especially since you say this only happens when playing your most demanding games. You definitely need to eliminate heat as the problem before anything else. Otherwise, you may have a nice, dual-PSU computer that still locks up due to heat.

If the interior and vents are all clean of heat trapping dust, and all fans are spinning properly, open the side panel and blast a desk fan in there while playing your game to see what happens.
 
If done safely one of the larger issues you might encounter is related to electrical interference. Ground loops are high on this list of potential issues.

Every home or office is unique enough to make too wide ranging of statements on how viable this experiment is. A single PSU will be your best option.
 
My stacker came with a plug to use dual psus.. should be ok I would think.
 
Easily done TBH, I've done it before while setting up stuff for some extreme Ln2 action to spread out the system load across two PSU's for best performance.
Now - Getting two PSU's into the same system (Case) is another matter, I use a test bench so I have no room/mounting limitations to worry about.
 
My stacker came with a plug to use dual psus.
Assuming a "stacker" is a rack or shelf system specifically designed to house more than one device, then that makes total sense since the stacker (like a rack) establishes a common ground.

Getting two PSU's into the same system (Case) is another matter
Right. And to that, if you don't have a suitable test bench, or if this will be a permanent configurations, there are PC cases designed to support dual PSUs too, like this one.
 
If the PSU was the problem you'd get hard shutdowns instead of the system locking up, the SSD not showing up suggests that might actually be the problem.
and even more likely is the connector for the ssd, doesn't matter if it's sata or m.2.
 
Yes, specifically Stacker STC-T01 :)
 
I did check to make sure all fans were spinning, cleaned off all the filter media and, like I wrote, no other games have this issue. PSU's don't need a minimum load in order to function anymore do they?
 
PSU's don't need a minimum load in order to function anymore do they?
Not in decades. They still may not turn on with "no" load but even a computer sitting there doing nothing puts a little load on the supply. The motherboard, CPU, and RAM are still "alive" - even in stand-by mode. If just idle, typically case fans still spin. If hard drives, they spin. USB ports are alive - even in standby.

The bigger issue about a minimum load was efficiency. But the 80 PLUS certification program pretty much deals with that as it requires certified PSU to be at least 80% efficient at 20, 50 and 100% loads (also 10% load for Titanium).
 
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