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watercooling advice please

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#1
Having read this thread, http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=48485

it looks like i migh not be getting the H20-220 Compact Liquid Cooling Kit , it all sounded and looked good and easy ..

as i posted in that thread i think you can add to this kit ( http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-120-COMPACT.asp )as i am looking to cool my cpu now then add 2 x9800gtx when its out..

but now well im not so sure what to do.( I am a newb at using watercooling and oc'ing but willing to learn)

the main thing i liked about the kit was tidyness and also the fact resivoir and pump was all in 1 and not in my case.

now to set it all straight!:

I am getting water cooling for quietness and keeping temps down, I will be ocing my cpu/ram but my cards I will buy watercooled versions that are already well oc'd probably BFG ones ( point being i will not try to see what i can get out of my PC, more like just to get a better performance than stock)

so with all that in mind, do you still think i should get custom parts, or a kit also if i get a parts what parts are best to keep it tidy in my 832 stacker

I did like the fact you can get custom kit as it were from http://www.petrastechshop.com

but as i said i did like te tidyness from the swifttech H20-220 Compact Liquid Cooling Kit

anyone advise
thanks
 

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#2
ok so lets say i go components, heres a list of what i think makes sence and should be easy and tidy to install:

swiftech 2x120 or 3x120 qp radiator
swiftech rad box for radiator
D-tek fusion or Swiftech APOGEE GTX for cpu(whats best?)
Laing d5 pump
7/16" tubing
coolant(whats best)?
2-3 120mm fans for rad(might have them already)
a pack of clips for the 7/16" tubing


am i missing anything or need to change bits?

oh and thank you to the ppl who have had input on this thread http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=48485 as it has given alot of info to me.
 

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#3
alos is it worh me getting sata dvd drives or stick to ide? o-0
 

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#4
For the loop, here are my thoughts:

The D-Tek is one of the best blocks (from what I've read - I haven't had a chance to test one yet), especially with the additional nozzle pack. The downside to the D-Tek is the block will reduce the flow through the loop, especially if you use one of the more restrictive nozzles. The Swiftech block is decent, too, and may be better if having several blocks (say you want to include a chipset block on top of the GPU blocks). The trick is to try to keep your flow rate over 1.5 GPM. Go check out this thread:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=151627

I would suggest the 320 radiator if you are planning on cooling two GPUs. If you were doing just the CPU or the CPU and one GPU the 220 would be fine. The more surface area for the radiator, the more heat that can be displaced/removed from the system.

As for coolant, I use just distilled water in mine, but you can put in some additives to control microbes and such. You should avoid mixing aluminum and copper (the GTX's top is aluminum, but is supposed to be plated to resist corrosion), but if you had to mix the metals you need to add an anti-corrosive agent to the loop like automotive antifreeze.

The only thing I could suggest you add to the watercooling setup is a fan controller, so that you could turn down the volume of the fans when you are not needing the full power (websurfing or sitting at idle)>

As for the Sata DVD vs. IDE, I think it depends a lot on your system. Do some research on your motherboard and see what others have to say about it.
 

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#5
well i will only have the 3(cpu and 2xgpu on my loop)
as for coolant i will want the best pretty much i can find9after spending so much on pc and parts)

I think ill go with the swifttech apogee (but what model?)
do you ahve a fan controller in mind ? any suggestions be great from anyone with experience
 

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#6
The Apogee GT and th GTX are identical on the inside, but the barbs are farther apart on the GTX. Swiftech claims this can lower temps by an additional 1 degree C at 100 watts.

As for a fan controller, I use a Zalman MFC1:

http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/view.asp?idx=1&code=017

This model had four knobs and two switches, but there is a newer model (MFC1 Plus) that has six knobs:

http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/view.asp?idx=279&code=017

If you prefer something electronic:

http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/view.asp?idx=274&code=017
 

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#7
Ok so i amy aswell get the gtx!

the digitial fan controller looks nice but only controlls 4;( where as the plus controlls 6 so thats a hard one..

well thanx for the help ill make a fianl list and post see what you all think , :)
 

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#8
aww nearly forgot the resivoir, ill search but any thoughts on that or not really matter too much
 

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#9
agh damn it, i understand barbs are they fittings the tube goes on! so do i need to order them aswell or do they come on the bits i need? from what i understand they come on them and i may have to choose a size which would be what for 7/16 tubing?
 

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#10
$19.95


Re-Tap Top Port in 1/4'' BSPP: NoYes (+ 3.00)
i ahve the option of that and dont understand it?

this is on the resivoir.

also i do like the look of this, for more tidyness.. Apogee™ Drive self powered cpu waterblocks.
 
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t_ski

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#11
You want 1/2 OD barbs for 7/16" tubing. This will be a little tight getting them all on, but 3/8" barbs would be a little loose. Most blocks come with barbs, but it sometimes depends on the seller/retailer. Make sure all of them have barbs (should list that in the item description).

As far as the reservoir I don't have much info for you on them. However, the one you mentioned in the last post (re-tap the top) sounds like the Swiftech MicroRes. I've heard of the tops on those being retapped to allow a barb to be attached, so you can add a tube to the top which leads to a fill-port in the top of your case. The benefit is so that you can fill it without having to open up the case and pull everything out. In my opinion, I don't think you need it, unless you see some point in it for your situation.
 

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#12
ok nearly their!

do i want : Tygon R3603 7/16in. ID 5/8in. OD Laboratory Tubing OR
Tygon R3603 7/16in. ID 11/16in. OD

difference is the 2nd size part!

and above i added about the slef powered cpu waterblock seems tidy
 
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#13
You are actually looking at the same kit I was.


Are you planning on cooling your cards on the same loop as the CPU, perhaps running it through another radiator too?
 

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#14
Ok here is a list in a shopping basket o-0
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/Founders2010/ScreenHunter_04.jpg

only small mods maybe:
get the laing-d5 pump instead of the mcp655
get the 2 "T's" for the 2 9800s when needed
(gpu blocks will be on the bfg watercooled models)
+ fan controller (i like the 2 zalmans)

Maybe get the Apogee™ Drive self powered water block instead of seperate pump and Apogee™ GTX

look about right T_ski :respect:
 
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#15
You are actually looking at the same kit I was.


Are you planning on cooling your cards on the same loop as the CPU, perhaps running it through another radiator too?
Hi Steevo

I am hoping that the 3x120 fans and radiator will cool the CPU and 2x GPUS when I add them. :)
 
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#16
I look forward to seeing your results.




I lovie you long time if you post pics and such. :pimp:
 

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#17
well my stacker 832 came today :) with 2 more gig of ram so with this it will be good and even better when i add 2 9800 gtxs :)

but with all the help from ppl on this forum i will defo add pics when its all done.
 

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#18
CArt looks good, except I don't know if you need two kinds of coolant (IIRC the HydrX is an additive - you add it to distilled water). Also, if you want to save a few bucks, you can use regular scissors to cut the Tygon (or a utility knife), and you can use a pair of pliers to remove the clamps. You definitely should get the ArctiClean - that stuff works great.

As for your question about getting the Apogee Drive pump/waterblock, I think it's better to get separate components. At the very least, if the pump fails, you only need to replace the pump, not both parts together.

You should not use a "T" for the video cards. The output from the CPU should go directly into video card #1, then the output from that card should go directly into video card #2. You should avoid using T's, Y's and elbows if at all possible, as they add resistance and will decrease your flow rate.
 

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#19
T_ski and you other guys who have posted your thoughts have been a great help thank you

ill be on my way to setting up a nice watercooled rig now :) then ill be learning oclocking ;)

come on nvidia, I want them 9800's

:respect:
 

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#20
You should not use a "T" for the video cards. The output from the CPU should go directly into video card #1, then the output from that card should go directly into video card #2. You should avoid using T's, Y's and elbows if at all possible, as they add resistance and will decrease your flow rate.
This is not always the case. If your pump (or pumps) are capable of maintaining flow, a split loop could end up cooling better, as one component isn't heating the water for the next component.

But in the op's case, a single loop is preferred.
 

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#21
yeah makes sence wile E thanks, but as i will not oc my qx9650 to over 3.8 probably leave at 3.6 then i think it should be fine in a single loop, also the gpus will be oced at factory(bfg more likely) so it should be all good
 

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#22
This is not always the case. If your pump (or pumps) are capable of maintaining flow, a split loop could end up cooling better, as one component isn't heating the water for the next component.

But in the op's case, a single loop is preferred.
The reason I stated this was because under most circumstances, you'd be dividing the flow. Say you have 1.5 GPM flow rate through the loop and you are cooling two video cards. When you split the loop with a "Y" (better than a "T"), the flow gets cut in half, and each GPU would get .75 GPM, right? Now, if the loop had multiple pumps and the flow rate was high enough, I don't think it would be a problem. But from what I've been seeing playing around with "Martin's Water Cooling Flow Rate Estimator" that's not always going to be the case. I don't know how many people use dual pumps, but in the five or so years I've ben watercooling, I only heard of dual pumps in the last year or so.

I do agree with you that you could get parts to be equally cooler by splitting the loop though, but I don't think the difference would be that great under most circumstances. It all depends on the parts I guess. :D

@Founders - make sure you post up some pics here when you get he loop installed, and let us know if you have any more questions about putting it together when the parts get in.
 

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#23
The reason I stated this was because under most circumstances, you'd be dividing the flow. Say you have 1.5 GPM flow rate through the loop and you are cooling two video cards. When you split the loop with a "Y" (better than a "T"), the flow gets cut in half, and each GPU would get .75 GPM, right? Now, if the loop had multiple pumps and the flow rate was high enough, I don't think it would be a problem. But from what I've been seeing playing around with "Martin's Water Cooling Flow Rate Estimator" that's not always going to be the case. I don't know how many people use dual pumps, but in the five or so years I've ben watercooling, I only heard of dual pumps in the last year or so.

I do agree with you that you could get parts to be equally cooler by splitting the loop though, but I don't think the difference would be that great under most circumstances. It all depends on the parts I guess. :D

@Founders - make sure you post up some pics here when you get he loop installed, and let us know if you have any more questions about putting it together when the parts get in.
I agree that a normal loop is better for most people. I was just playing a bit of Devil's Advocate.

I'm having some issues with my loop. I have 3 DDC-1's sitting here. I think I'm about to add my 1x120mm rad and another DDC-1 to my loop. Can't decide yet.
 

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#24
yeah ill add pics when its all together cheers, but im sure ill be on to ask more stuff o-0

thanks again